Jump to content

no power to only one distribution fuse panel


Kjungles
Go to solution Solved by wamcneil,

Recommended Posts

IMG_1045.heic

The left fuse panel on my 2003 Executive started out having no power intermittently but now has no power at all. It has the main wire that connects at the bottom and runs over the the side of the compartment. The other two panels have power so I'm leaning towards it not being the cutoff switch. (???) Everything seems to be in order in the house battery compartment just don't know what I'm up against from point A to B. Any thoughts, diagrams or items to check or look at?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look at your prints.  If you have TWO Fuse distribution panels, odds are, you have dual salesman solenoids.  If the contacts are bad….no current.  Use a VOM and check for voltage (to ground) on each large terminal.  Trace back the incoming (turn OFF the salesman switch) cable it will still be powered…look for loose cables.  Where is the main DC circuit breaker or a large ANL fuse?

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my 2005 Exec (built April 2004, so could be slightly or significantly different), each of the large wires entering the Front Run Bay along the left wall is controlled by a high-amperage DC circuit breaker in the Rear Run Bay. Check the Rear Run Bay, following the wires entering/exiting from the bottom. Trace them upwards and see if they connect to breakers which are black and about 2-inches square. If so, check to see if the push button to reset is popped. I think mine might have faint lettering indicating 150A. Make sure they are all reset and check for power there and back at the Front Run Bay.

If yours doesn’t have the Rear Run Bay breakers I’ve described, please post a picture of the Rear Run Bay for further suggestions.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, georgecederholm said:

On my 2005 Exec (built April 2004, so could be slightly or significantly different), each of the large wires entering the Front Run Bay along the left wall is controlled by a high-amperage DC circuit breaker in the Rear Run Bay. Check the Rear Run Bay, following the wires entering/exiting from the bottom. Trace them upwards and see if they connect to breakers which are black and about 2-inches square. If so, check to see if the push button to reset is popped. I think mine might have faint lettering indicating 150A. Make sure they are all reset and check for power there and back at the Front Run Bay.

If yours doesn’t have the Rear Run Bay breakers I’ve described, please post a picture of the Rear Run Bay for further suggestions.

Ok this something to check..... when you say rear run bay specifically do you mean the engine compartment or the house battery compartment? I am going back to storage to mess around agin after lunch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Kjungles said:

Ok this something to check..... when you say rear run bay specifically do you mean the engine compartment or the house battery compartment? I am going back to storage to mess around agin after lunch.

On ours (again, could be different), what I generally refer to as the “Rear Run Bay” is an enclosed box in the engine compartment. It’s usually in the upper right (curb or passenger side) corner of the engine compartment when looking in. It should be similar to the “Front Run Bay” that you had a picture of in your original post.

These “bays” are often referred to as FRB and RRB in posts.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, georgecederholm said:

On ours (again, could be different), what I generally refer to as the “Rear Run Bay” is an enclosed box in the engine compartment. It’s usually in the upper right (curb or passenger side) corner of the engine compartment when looking in. It should be similar to the “Front Run Bay” that you had a picture of in your original post.

These “bays” are often referred to as FRB and RRB in posts.

Hope this helps.

ok thanks for the direction.... I will look into, fingers crossed 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yours should look like this. In the upper right side of the diagram, you'll see the high current box that's on the right side of the engine compartment. Power goes through the circuit breakers to the salesman solenoids, and then up to the electrical bay in the front. 

As others stated, one of the salesman switch solenoids could have failed or one of the circuit breakers that feeds them.

image.jpeg

Edited by wamcneil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

one of the two klixon brakers on the bottom left. Probably the 2nd from left. (the other two are jumpered in parallel for the inverter).

Each one feeds one of the solenoids on the right side (salesman switch solenoids).

Check for voltage on the bottom output terminal of each breaker.

Then check for voltage on the output of each of those solenoids on the right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All the black breakers (bottom left) have power in and out. The silver solenoid (right) has power on the left but no power on the right. The black solenoid (upper right has power in and out. Would the silver one only power the right fuse panel in the FFB though? That’s the only panel with now power

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds like your problem. 
BTW, if you have replaced your halogen ceiling heaters with efficient LED lights, IMO there is no need for two solenoids. 
Power from the top latching solenoid triggers the lower non-latching solenoid. 
The top solenoid is rated for like 60a.  I added up all the non-inverter house loads I could figure and came up with less than 60a. 
The halogen ceiling lights can draw up to something like 80a if you turned them all on at once. So after you eliminate that huge load, you can remove the lower solenoid altogether and simply move its output cable up to the top solenoid. 
That’s what I did 2years ago when my solenoid failed. 

Edited by wamcneil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Kjungles said:

I meant left fuse panel….sorry and I guess it does. I jumped it and everything came on and also put power to the switch but got nothing so heading to Napa to get one and will put in tomorrow morning (out of daylight) 🤞

Your top solenoid powers the domestic fuse panel in the bedroom. Mine is inside the cabinetry above the washer/dryer in the bedroom. 

Your bottom solenoid powers the house fuse panel in the forward electrical bay. If there's no power on the output side of your lower solenoid, that is definitely why there's no power going to your domestic fuses in the front electrical bay.

image.thumb.jpeg.168062490b169264941e8f3d953ab6e8.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, wamcneil said:

Yours should look like this. In the upper right side of the diagram, you'll see the high current box that's on the right side of the engine compartment. Power goes through the circuit breakers to the salesman solenoids, and then up to the electrical bay in the front. 

As others stated, one of the salesman switch solenoids could have failed or one of the circuit breakers that feeds them.

image.jpeg

Thanks for posting this wiring diagram.  I have no wiring diagrams in my coach information and this could come in very handy.  I'm going to print this out and add it to my book.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Solution
4 hours ago, beemerman said:

Thanks for posting this wiring diagram.  I have no wiring diagrams in my coach information and this could come in very handy.  I'm going to print this out and add it to my book.

Check the Monacoers download section. There's a wiring diagram for 2003 dyn/sig/exec.

 

Edited by wamcneil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...