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House batteries charging


bobbylinn52
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2 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

The only thing I might suggest.  Look at your files.  I could not ind a wiring schatic for the actual switch.  The switch appears to be a single pole, single throw so there is only 2 wires for the switched terminal.  TYPICALLY, MONACO used the House DC for the boost circuit.  Later on, the Dynasty had dual power, I think, so the boost woul work from either House or Chassis.  There should be 4 wires on the switch.  1 is incoming 12 VDC from house; 1 is outgoing to the relay. 1 is ground so the “NIGHT LIGHT” is lighted from the dash lightS.  The final one will be the 12 VDC from the dash light circuit.  If there i# a red or pilot indicator when 5he switch is engaged, it probably has a jumper from the wire to the Bosch relay.

That Bosch relay is not redundant and can be pulled.  Follow the install instructions and hardwire i5 per the prints.

I keep forgetting that your Trombetta may be up front.  So the wiring run is shorter and easier. Later on Monaco moved the boost solenoid to the rear to keep the voltage higher so the new multi conductor wiring you need is Nat a PITA to pull and run.

Tom,  Unfortunately my Trombetta is in the battery bay in right rear just behind the axle.  I expect to have to pull at least one wire but will pull more just in case for later use.

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Just now, bobbylinn52 said:

Tom,  Unfortunately my Trombetta is in the battery bay in right rear just behind the axle.  I expect to have to pull at least one wire but will pull more just in case for later use.

You need to carefully look at the switch and the wiring and the ML-ACR Layout. Mt here has been some debate, but generally speaking, when the boost switch was used, there was a “shortfall” of conductors or wires.  I thought I could use the existing harness or conductors on mine.  Needed at least one, maybe two.

draw or find your prints the wires in and out from the switch.  Again, eliminate the Bosch relay….it is superfluous and one more thing to go wrong.

Then draw up the circuit based on your switch wires and the action.  Memory says to get aloof the ML-ACR features, you might have to use their switch.

I don’t know if you will need to do any 2/0/ Cable work.  If so,myou need a hydraulic crimper.

Good Luck and report back with pictures….

Thanks.

 

 

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To install the Bluesea I simply removed the Isolation Solenoid and put the Bluesea in the same spot and connected the heavy gauge wires already there.  That was the easy part. 

I needed an extra wire to install the Bluesea switch in the dash that replaced the boost switch.  I spent two days trying to find a spare wire without success.  Finally decided to pull extra wires.  Had already installed a 3/4" piece of conduit to run my fuel pressure gauge so just ran a grouping of five new wires through it and used one for the Bluesea, the rest are spares.  

I was able to run the conduit from pushing the pieces from the front generator compartment through the frame cutouts into the space between the rails above the basement compartments.  Had to take one of the ceiling panels down in one bay to help the conduit through.  Then pushed it through the space where it came out just in front of the rear axle.  

 

 

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My '06 Camelot doesn't charge the house batteries either from the engine alternator. A few months after I'd bought the coach I called Monaco Tech Support and asked them about it. The tech told me the alternator isn't big enough to charge the house and the chassis batteries. As such it's not wired to do that.

I've heard some coaches do, so I wonder if those that do have larger alternator's, or did this tech just not no what he was talking about?

Anyone else have any comments about this?

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@BRBowers I'm new to this and am interested in seeing what the others say but my vote is the tech didn't know what he was talking about.  If my Diplomat does, surely your Camelot is supposed to. @Tom Cherry likely has good info here. 

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All the reading I've done over the last ~14 years of owning my Windsor says there are two sizes of altenators on most of the coaches, 160 amp and 200 amp.  Either of those will charge both banks of batteries.

I guess in theory if you are using the inverter to power a bunch of 120 volt loads it might not be able to keep up but it would take quite a bit of draw.  In Nov 2021 I was driving in really cooooold weather.  The system heat, which included 150 watt of heating pads, was coning on quite a bit and I was powering the residential refrigerator.  When I arrived at my destination the batteries were at 100%!!

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2 hours ago, BRBowers said:

My '06 Camelot doesn't charge the house batteries either from the engine alternator. A few months after I'd bought the coach I called Monaco Tech Support and asked them about it. The tech told me the alternator isn't big enough to charge the house and the chassis batteries. As such it's not wired to do that.

I've heard some coaches do, so I wonder if those that do have larger alternator's, or did this tech just not no what he was talking about?

Anyone else have any comments about this?

Tech Support was having a bad day.  YES, it would be NICE if you had a 200 Amp alternator as the Dynasties and above do.  BUT, I have never had an issue with my 2009 Camelot.  It has the 160 Amp Alternator which is the same as yours.  SO, chalk that up to a tech support person that was infuriated that the bean counters had struck and that the original Windsors, I think, DID have a 200 AMP.  Your 2006 Windsor is a twin to the Scepter and Camelot.  The 2005 had a DIFFERENT Chassis.  That was the OLDER Windsor and it MAY have had a 200 amp.  I know that the older chassis was used in 2004....but that is really irrelevant.  Your 160 Amp will work quite well.

I am including a set of prints for the 2006 Windsor/Camelot/Scepter Chassis.....

Monaco was in transition and each chassis might have a different iteration of the IRD (Delay or Defeat Relay) and also the solenoids.  Here is what I can say with certainity....if you post pictures of your front and rear boards and do a little looking, then you should get help here.

Look at the pictures in this post.  There is also a pint that I posted early on and put in an Intellitec Part (Isolation Delay Relay?).  Monaco MAY have used the small black one of the printed circuit one (green) or you MAY have a large studded and finned one.  Pictures will tell folks what you have.

Next up....you need to find your BOOST Solenoid. Knowing the Model number and brand helps us a LOT as to what type of charging system that you have.... Pictures and specific info from on the "Can" will help.

UNFORTUNATELY, the 2006 Manual for that series is a bit "LIGHT" on the chassis electrical system.  BUT, reading and understanding this topic will help you.

That's it....  SO, don't be discouraged....your alternator should be fine....but finding out what controls or electronics you have to make it work is the first step.  Steven P has a great writeup on his Diplomat and it MAY look like yours.  SO, look, take pictures and then provide info.

Good Luck...

1201024594_2006WindsorCamelotandScepterwiringdiagrams (1).pdf

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5 hours ago, BRBowers said:

My '06 Camelot doesn't charge the house batteries either from the engine alternator. A few months after I'd bought the coach I called Monaco Tech Support and asked them about it. The tech told me the alternator isn't big enough to charge the house and the chassis batteries. As such it's not wired to do that.

I've heard some coaches do, so I wonder if those that do have larger alternator's, or did this tech just not no what he was talking about?

Anyone else have any comments about this?

If you look at Page 36 of the document Tom Cherry posted above, you will see there is an Itelletec Isolator Relay Delay (IRD) shown on the drawing.  This is the device (along with other associated circuitry) that allows the engine alternator to charge your house batteries.

All Monaco's, from the 1980 (at least) have had the alternator charge both the house and chassis batteries.  In the early days (1960's) it was a simple solid state isolator.  My 1997 Dynasty still had that isolator.  In the Mid-2000's they switched to a more sophisticated circuitry.

  -Rick N.

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