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Wanting to install residential fridge


Dragnfly

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Hey guys, needing to in stall residential fridge and wondering how should it be wired, I have plug out of wall  and wires from inverter looking for advice on how to connect so that it can run on either or if that’s possible to do? Thanks 

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Typically they are plugged into the inverted receptacle so it can operate off the inverter while traveling down the road. When plugged into elect it will allow a direct pass thru the inverter as a bypass. 
what refrigerator are you putting in?

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When I installed my residential fridge (5 years ago), I initially just plugged it into the existing inverter circuit from the original ice maker.  However, I soon realized that the large inverter (2800 watts) used lots of power when it was just idling.  My solution was to install a small dedicated inverter just for the fridge (1000 watt Xantrex).  I also installed it's own transfer switch so that the fridge is powered from shore or generator if either are present, but switches to battery power through the inverter if they are neither available.  I am much happier with this configuration and it has worked flawlessly for years.  Good luck with your conversion.

Richard

I should have mentioned that now I only turn on the big inefficient inverter when I want to use the microwave or watch TV.

Richard

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The above mentioned suggestions are ideally a better way of doing your install. I was answering in a way I thought was in-line with what you were asking.  I’m getting ready right now to replace my 8yr old Samsung. 

Edited by tmw188
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If you put “refrigerator” no quotes in the search box and select topics you will get many hits.  Read them.  The need for an inverter to power it is mandatory.  Also, you must insulate the roof vent and the lower access area.  If you don’t, then odds are it will quit running.  When the newer, more energy efficient models were designed, they have a much lower range. So when you put the ones that you purchase now will not work on an unheated back porch when the nighttime temperature drops below freezing, they shutdown.  Mine did and I installed the recommended 18 CF Samsung.

Lots of info here….find it an$ read it.

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9 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

If you put “refrigerator” no quotes in the search box and select topics you will get many hits.  Read them.  The need for an inverter to power it is mandatory.  Also, you must insulate the roof vent and the lower access area.  If you don’t, then odds are it will quit running.  When the newer, more energy efficient models were designed, they have a much lower range. So when you put the ones that you purchase now will not work on an unheated back porch when the nighttime temperature drops below freezing, they shutdown.  Mine did and I installed the recommended 18 CF Samsung.

Lots of info here….find it an$ read it.

Tom-thanks for taking your time to share your knowledge. I was lucky installing my rf-18 as all I had below was a 4" floor with nothing underneath but the floor. I have two outside access doors so I sealed the top access and and put some insulation in that opening. I used plumbers tape from the top of the new frig hinge and went over top and tied into the metal frame that surrounds the upper access door. everything seems ok but I have not traveled on the road yet. I will look at some of the other posts to see if I missed anything. It is great to have this resource, this forum, to keep these Monacos rolling!

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10 hours ago, Ivylog said:

I did much the same as Richard^^^. 1000W PSW inverter with a transfer switch as the other was MSW. Added 2 more 12V batteries and a 100A charger to decrease the generator run time. 

Dick- I just installed my rf-18 and simply pulled in into the inverter plug. I understand what you'd but how did you go about it? Did you plug into the other receptacle behind the frig with your 1000w inverter and transfer switch or? How did you route your setup?

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35 minutes ago, Blacknight said:

Tom-thanks for taking your time to share your knowledge. I was lucky installing my rf-18 as all I had below was a 4" floor with nothing underneath but the floor. I have two outside access doors so I sealed the top access and and put some insulation in that opening. I used plumbers tape from the top of the new frig hinge and went over top and tied into the metal frame that surrounds the upper access door. everything seems ok but I have not traveled on the road yet. I will look at some of the other posts to see if I missed anything. It is great to have this resource, this forum, to keep these Monacos rolling!

Sounds great to me.  One point that I should have made and it is in most of the topics on installs… remove all the internal insulation inside the cavity.  Do NOT put any insulation inside the cavity where the Res refer will go.  You need air circulation around it.  Do not make a tight fitting front surround for that “tight” fitting front look.  Again, you need air circulation.  

do not drill holes into a res refer frame or sidewall aS there may be refrigeration lines.  I used metal plates that were laminated to the metal cabinet with 3M VHB CLEAR double stick tape (Amazon). That is stronger than the black automotive emblem tape

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I have a rf18 right now sitting on the galley floor that has failed. I installed one in my last coach about 6 yrs ago it the owner of that coach called me the other day to ask me about it because theirs too right is on the fritz. My current one I did not install but it’s 8yrs old. After days of research and discovery mine is not repairable because of a burned wire somewhere in the wiring harness for the fridge defrost htr. I might try to switch a separate 120v to the htr to manually control it till I get home otherwise I’m changing it out here in FL. Samsungs are notorious for freeze up issues with some work arounds. You might consider other brands. The new rf18 don’t look as nice but they did eliminate the door handles which could be a plus for some. This is a burned thru hole I understand is uncommon but can happen. Zoom in on pic.

B1451274-9FBB-4936-B9B0-360434B493AF.png

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32 minutes ago, Blacknight said:

Dick- I just installed my rf-18 and simply pulled in into the inverter plug. I understand what you'd but how did you go about it? Did you plug into the other receptacle behind the frig with your 1000w inverter and transfer switch or? How did you route your setup?

Steve, most likely you have two receptacles in your refrigerator compartment.  If you have a 2000 watt inverter, then you can use the icemaker one.  That is the one that will have power through the inverter and be “On” when there is no shore or Genny and the inverter is suppling 120 VAC.  If you have less than a 2000 watt inverter, then an auxiliary inverter would make sense.  Typically a res refer will require, for start up, around 800 watts.  The RES REFER Standard Mh have a 2800 watt inverter.

if you have to purchase a supplemental inverter, get a Xantrex or a higher end name brand with a low battery cutoff control.  If it comes with a GFCI outlet, then take it apart and remove it.  You do not want the Res Refer hooked up to a GFCI circuit.  Your house has, typically, a dedicated 15 A circuit.  It and a microwave/hood over a range are NOT, by NEC and building codes, GFCI protected. The heater circuits for defrosting and an icemaker (has a heater wire) typically will drive you crazy and trip GFCI.  

IF you have to use a supplemental inverter, if is MUCH easier to run a 15 A #12 gage extension cord or Romex to the inverter and keep the inverter close to the main inverter.  A 1000 watt inverter will require a #6 cable if it is short run or a #4 if longer (say 15 ft). The easiest is to add the inverter input directly from the battery posts on the main inverter. They are usually way oversized.  Then the more flexible SO or Romex or #14 (15A) cable is used to go to the Res Refer plug

14 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

I have a rf18 right now sitting on the galley floor that has failed. I installed one in my last coach about 6 yrs ago it the owner of that coach called me the other day to ask me about it because theirs too right is on the fritz. My current one I did not install but it’s 8yrs old. After days of research and discovery mine is not repairable because of a burned wire somewhere in the wiring harness for the fridge defrost htr. I might try to switch a separate 120v to the htr to manually control it till I get home otherwise I’m changing it out here in FL. Samsungs are notorious for freeze up issues with some work arounds. You might consider other brands. The new rf18 don’t look as nice but they did eliminate the door handles which could be a plus for some. This is a burned thru hole I understand is uncommon but can happen. Zoom in on pic.

B1451274-9FBB-4936-B9B0-360434B493AF.png

Bummer.  The earlier Samsung had issues.  I think 5here were maybe 2 or 3 reported failures here.  Mine was a fresh out of the factory RF 18 and was installed in the late fall of 2017.  There was, memory, a redesign of the compressor to an “inverter” style, which mine has.  Others need to chime in here.  The F&P brand was in the $2,500 range and some had to put them in due to space issues.

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@tmw188 when I switched to res in my coach, personally I avoided Samsung bc of 2 Samsung fridges I had issues w at my home. Went w GE and so far, so good. 

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Todd

The failure point in the RF18 fridge defrost circuit is most commonly the small thermal fuse that Samsung encapsulated in a plastic bubble to seal it from moisture.  The plastic bubble fails and then the thermal fuse fails.  If you have not as yet replaced that part of the wiring harness, I suggest you try that before you give up on it.

Richard

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1 hour ago, hex_nut said:

Todd

The failure point in the RF18 fridge defrost circuit is most commonly the small thermal fuse that Samsung encapsulated in a plastic bubble to seal it from moisture.  The plastic bubble fails and then the thermal fuse fails.  If you have not as yet replaced that part of the wiring harness, I suggest you try that before you give up on it. 

Yes it does show open at room temp, and in ice water and putting it in another freezer it still reads open, however if I jumper across the terminals that it plugs into it still won’t bring on the force defrost function. I may not be getting it cold enough but the force defrost still will not come on when that is jumped. I had a conversation with tech online that told me he has seen on occasions all be it very few that there will be a open in the wire where runs thru the fridge box. When I sent him that pic below he said yep that’s your problem? It shows where it burned thru the inside cab wall. You can see where it got hot there.

506B5EB8-1708-4119-B174-69C6DB173B77.png

Edited by tmw188
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The new rf18 has a smooth front with no curvature to the doors or handles. I don’t like the look over the old ones but I have to go back to this model because availability while out of town. I know this will operate on a MSW inverter also. I’ve become familiar with this model now over the last few weeks🤞

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20 hours ago, hex_nut said:

Todd

The failure point in the RF18 fridge defrost circuit is most commonly the small thermal fuse that Samsung encapsulated in a plastic bubble to seal it from moisture.  The plastic bubble fails and then the thermal fuse fails.  If you have not as yet replaced that part of the wiring harness, I suggest you try that before you give up on it.

Richard

Inclined to believe that this is the issue with my RF18. Constantly have freezing under the mid level storage bins. Where would I find this thermal fuse. And where would I find a replacement?

Thanks 

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19 minutes ago, Gene Y said:

Inclined to believe that this is the issue with my RF18. Constantly have freezing under the mid level storage bins. Where would I find this thermal fuse. And where would I find a replacement?

Thanks 

Gene, are you getting water & ice collecting UNDER the crisper bins?

If you are, then that is a completely different and easily fixable problem.

I was one of the first original owners of the RF-197 in my previous Windsor back in 2012 who had that very same problem within 6 months of installation.  A Samsung Warranty Service call remedied any possibility of it ever happening again in either the fridge or freezer. The service tech installed upgraded Defrost Clips in both the fridge and freezer compartments.

My Samsung RF-197 fridge in our Dynasty did not have the upgraded Defrost Clip either so I ordered one and installed it prior to leaving on our summer trip last year.

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In January 2023 when TMW188 first posted on his refrigerator problem on IRV2 it caught my attention.

I had just gone through a problem with Frigidaire Gallery residential refrigerator at home and after doing a bunch of search I found I could force it into defrost mode by pressing both the (+)  & (-) arrows at the same time.  While doing the search I found several videos on how to do diagnostics on that refrigerator.

So I started doing a search on how to diagnose a Samsung and found a site that had the procedure for a bunch of models.  Attached is a printed version of this, scroll down the document until you find the Samsung RF18 display and it will provide the procedure and what the fault is based on the display. 

SAMSUNG's Digital World - Support.pdf

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Yes that is a frozen up drain and it is spilling from the Evap drain pan. Here is a pic of what Richard mentioned. Your htr is probably working just long enough to thaw     the ice on the coil but the hole is not thawing. If you put this in be sure the drain is clean and clear down to thru the tube. There are small rubber duck bills on the bottom of the drains just above the condensate pan in the condenser compartment. If the get dirty they won’t drain well and could back cause a back up too adding to the issue. Be sure it wraps around the htr tightly for a good transfer of heat. 

86EDD095-3BD5-4BE7-97A9-48EF994D7F9F.jpeg

E48684C7-D9BC-46A6-A3C3-3B5AF4EF120F.jpeg

I might suggest to let that Evap area thaw good before trying to remove the cover,  be careful if you have that much frozen water it makes difficult to remove the cover without damaging it. 

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9 hours ago, Jim Pratten said:

The defrost clip mentioned is popular item on eBay.  Search for DA61-06796A Refrigerator Clip.

It's a fairly easy install with the bonus of getting to clean out your refrigerator.

Do you know what years this mod is intended-I mean I just installed a new rf-18-I would guess if this was a problem they would have corrected this?

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