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DUVAC Alternator and Suitable Replacements


Guest Potholepicker

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17 hours ago, Just Jim said:

Hey Van,  I am investigating the installation of the ML ACR and I want to just get it installed and tested.  Then later I will run the wires to install the switch on the dash.  If all I want is just the ML ACR install with no switch I only hook up the black and red wires to neg and positive respectively?  The other wires only go to the switch?   Someone mentioned that you had a "white paper" on this, but I did not see anything like that in the files, etc.  Perhaps it is called something else?  Thanks in advance.  Jim

 

Edit:  Added pictures of my existing.  The top wire going to the isolator is from the chassis battery.  I assume the bottom is from the house batteries.  The middle one is the alternator?  I've read that I need to attach one large wire to the lower copper bar to feed the house but which one?  The smaller wires on the big solenoid go where?  The wires on the battery maintainer (green box) go where?   Thanks in advance for any help. 

Rear High Power 1.jpg

Rear High Power 2.jpg

Yes, you do have to provide +12VDC and ground to the bottom of the ML-ACR, even if you do not install the remote switch.  Those terminals power the electronics inside that determine when to activate the relay inside the ML-ACR.

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2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

They do recommend using fuses on the small switch, I think do to time I just went to Lowes and bought these  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cooper-Bussmann-30-Amp-Fast-Acting-Fuse/3138837

Any auto parts store should have something that would work. 

I removed the original Auxillary Start "boost" switch on my dash and installed the switch there.  It is lighted and will actually provide blink type code if there is a problem.  When I first installed I didn't wire it right and it was blinking. 

FWI, the blue gauge is my fuel pressure gauge from the FASS install

Fuel gauge and Bluesea switch.jpg

Sorry to have so many stupid questions...if you can't tell I'm just a little gun shy on wiring this up.  Where did you get the power and ground for the ML ACR?  Can I use any of the wires already in the run box or do I have to source it from somewhere else?  Not nearly as important now, but will be in the future.  I know to separate the generator from the chassis engine... I use the 2nd engine wire from the ML ACR... but what does it connect to?

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48 minutes ago, Just Jim said:

Where did you get the power and ground for the ML ACR?  Can I use any of the wires already in the run box or do I have to source it from somewhere else?  Not nearly as important now, but will be in the future.  I know to separate the generator from the chassis engine... I use the 2nd engine wire from the ML ACR... but what does it connect to?

I used ground from the chassis next to the ML-ACR. I think I just took power from one of the sides of the ML-ACR, I can't quite tell from my picture.

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From memory.

It depends on where you put the switch because that is where the power is wired in.   I put my switch on the front dash where the auxillary start button was.  I had to get a 12 volt power source here. 

Attached is the wiring diagram I used for the switch. 

The Bluesea needs 2 wires from the disconnect to the switch, I needed an extra wire in my Passenger side rear electrical bay,  I spent a day looking for a spare wire, gave up and just ran a group for 5 wires front to back, I used one of these for the switch.  The other wire was from my isolation relay that had come from the boost switch, which I believe was purple.  

So I used the purple wire on the switch position #2

I used the wire I ran as the yellow wire to position #7

I found a ground in the front and wired that to position #1

The found a 12 volt power source in the front and wired it to position #8

The other connections that they show are optional, one is for an engine delay so that the Bluesea is disconnected for a period of time when you first start the coach

The other is if you want to isolate the house and chassis if you are running the generator. 

Not many people use the other two isolation wires.

 

Bluesea ML-ACRs wiring diagram.pdf Bluesea instructions.pdf

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Thanks Jim.  However, I'm not wiring in the front switch at the moment.  I just want to get the AL ACR installed and then I'll take the day to run wires to the front dash.  I am asking about the positive and the negative to connect to the ACR in the back without the front switch.  Just pick up any 12v positive and a ground to the chassis?

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41 minutes ago, Just Jim said:

Thanks Jim.  However, I'm not wiring in the front switch at the moment.  I just want to get the AL ACR installed and then I'll take the day to run wires to the front dash.  I am asking about the positive and the negative to connect to the ACR in the back without the front switch.  Just pick up any 12v positive and a ground to the chassis?

YUP 12 volt power supply from constant source if you want to hook up the switch but if I'm not mistaken the lever on the top of the Bluesea would work to put it in auto or disconnect, don't need the switch for that.

Edited by jacwjames
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20 hours ago, Just Jim said:

Thanks Jim.  However, I'm not wiring in the front switch at the moment.  I just want to get the AL ACR installed and then I'll take the day to run wires to the front dash.  I am asking about the positive and the negative to connect to the ACR in the back without the front switch.  Just pick up any 12v positive and a ground to the chassis?

That's what I did. Thought I had a picture but can't find it. 

When you do install the switch check your wiring diagram. Mine showed that there were extra wires going from the RRB to the dash. The wires at the back were bundle together above and tucked behind the RRB no plug on them. The front ones were under the removable dash panel behind the gauges but stuck against the driver side wall. They had a plug on them but it was not plugged into anything. 

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Guest Potholepicker

I decided to install the ML-ACR alone. I read somewhere on this forum that the component only requires a ground connection. Maybe it draws power through the 12V connections on the main lugs.

It is working with this configuration as designed. I may install the dash switch in the future.

Jeff

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48 minutes ago, Potholepicker said:

I decided to install the ML-ACR alone. I read somewhere on this forum that the component only requires a ground connection. Maybe it draws power through the 12V connections on the main lugs.

It is working with this configuration as designed. I may install the dash switch in the future.

Jeff

This is correct, only needs a good ground connection once the battery cables are hooked up. The relay uses 12v positive from the battery stud terminals for its power / function. The red wire is only used if the switch is used, sending a signal to override in combine or isolate modes via the dash switch respectively. Jacwjames…I wish I would have seen your post regarding the existing wires in the dash and using them would have saved me a bit of time, but I came to the same conclusion with switch install….lol

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7 hours ago, Yoaks5 said:

That's what I did. Thought I had a picture but can't find it. 

When you do install the switch check your wiring diagram. Mine showed that there were extra wires going from the RRB to the dash. The wires at the back were bundle together above and tucked behind the RRB no plug on them. The front ones were under the removable dash panel behind the gauges but stuck against the driver side wall. They had a plug on them but it was not plugged into anything. 

I have looked at the wiring diagram and it does not show any extra wires.  I'll open up the dash and take a look before I start the process of running them.  I'll have all my fingers and toes crossed.  thanks for the tip.

7 hours ago, Potholepicker said:

I decided to install the ML-ACR alone. I read somewhere on this forum that the component only requires a ground connection. Maybe it draws power through the 12V connections on the main lugs.

It is working with this configuration as designed. I may install the dash switch in the future.

Jeff

this makes sense to me.  I have bought all the cables, etc. that I'm going to need.  Hope to start this soon, but it seems like it has rained every day.  Thanks for the info.

 

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