Agpopp Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 I have a question of where one would source the hard pipes used in the cooling system. The only corroded piece on the whole coach is this hard pipe to the upper rad that has a fitting on it. Im guessing thats a REV part?l Looks like I should tackle all these rubber hoses before too long as well. 2006 with 43k and all seem to be original. Seems like they are all short sections of straight hose or some 90s I could match up at NAPA. Then there are one or 2 small bypass hoses and the coolant jug lines and some tiny sections around the alternator, and of course the elephant in the room...the 40 feet of heater hose. Any thoughts on the replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradHend Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 I’m having that exact pipe made up in stainless as the original has developed a small, intermittent leak. Buddy with a metal shop is making and bending for me. I hope to have the old girl back up and running by the end of spring at the latest…but I’m now considering replacing my VGT while I’m doing all the other work the exhaust and coolant system. As for that 90 degree hose and all the others I was planning on doing the same as you and sizing them up at a parts store. Good luck. Post what you end up doing. I will do the same. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share Posted April 28, 2023 I'm going to call for a price tomorrow, but what would your friend charge to make a second? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idoc57 Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 1 hour ago, Agpopp said: I have a question of where one would source the hard pipes used in the cooling system. The only corroded piece on the whole coach is this hard pipe to the upper rad that has a fitting on it. Im guessing thats a REV part?l Looks like I should tackle all these rubber hoses before too long as well. 2006 with 43k and all seem to be original. Seems like they are all short sections of straight hose or some 90s I could match up at NAPA. Then there are one or 2 small bypass hoses and the coolant jug lines and some tiny sections around the alternator, and of course the elephant in the room...the 40 feet of heater hose. Any thoughts on the replacement? Hey Andrew and Brad, I might be able to save you a little leg work on the radiator hoses and the belts. I just replaced all of them on my 2006 Cayman 37 PBD last year. (300 ISB) I have the Modine transmission oil cooler that looks like a big box with openings on the ends. I was able to replace all of the hoses with just these 3 hoses from NAPA. Seems like I had to cut at least 2 of them to make all of the (5?) hoses that I needed. They worked out perfectly. I don't think that I even had to use the little, short, straight hose. Just in case you are replacing belts as well, here's what worked out well for my main Serpentine and A/C belts. By the way, if you can get the A/C belt over that big, honkin" fan blade, you are a better man than I am! I removed the 4 bolts that hold the fan on and slipped the belt in between the fan and pulley. Good Luck! I hope this helps you guys. Carey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share Posted April 28, 2023 8 hours ago, Idoc57 said: Hey Andrew and Brad, I might be able to save you a little leg work on the radiator hoses and the belts. I just replaced all of them on my 2006 Cayman 37 PBD last year. (300 ISB) I have the Modine transmission oil cooler that looks like a big box with openings on the ends. I was able to replace all of the hoses with just these 3 hoses from NAPA. Seems like I had to cut at least 2 of them to make all of the (5?) hoses that I needed. They worked out perfectly. I don't think that I even had to use the little, short, straight hose. Just in case you are replacing belts as well, here's what worked out well for my main Serpentine and A/C belts. By the way, if you can get the A/C belt over that big, honkin" fan blade, you are a better man than I am! I removed the 4 bolts that hold the fan on and slipped the belt in between the fan and pulley. Good Luck! I hope this helps you guys. Carey Carey, This is great info! A few questions, Did you match them up by trial and error or find the listing somewhere? How was your hard piping? Mines the only thing on my rig that looks bad! Did you deal with the little bypass hoses around the alternator and oil filter areas? Any attempt on the heater Hoses? I was going to cut them and add some valves for just in case at the minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadoo Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 Heater hose, when i did my cooling system repairs i decided that for the most part the rubber hoses looked pretty good (80k miles) so i only cut out the hoses attached to the engine, about 3 feet on each (pressure / suction side) and installed silicone hose with the special full circuil clamps then i used 2 ball valves to join the new to the old hoses. The hoses that were attached to the engine were the worst looking of all, that way in case of a problem i could close them off an continue along my way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idoc57 Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 Andrew, I took my old hoses off and took them with me. We looked through probably 50 hoses to match up the diameters and the bends. Yeah, a listing would have been nice, but that is a "pipe dream" (pardon the pun). It is not like asking for the upper and lower radiator hoses for a 2018 F-150. If memory serves me, there was a shorter hose that was on the driver's side that was almost straight, but had a slight offset. One end of one of those NAPA hoses has that slight offset and worked perfectly. My hard piping was in great shape. My coach only had 18K miles at the time. I don't think that I replaced the little bypass hoses. As for my heater hoses, they looked really good. I would have changed them out too but, when I looked at what a huge job that would have been, I decided to take my chances and just carry a few feet of heater hose, a couple of double ended barb fittings, and some good quality hose clamps. I figured that if I ever did spring a leak in one of the heater hoses, I could just cut the bad spot out and "patch" it with a piece of new hose. I know it would have been better to replace it all but, for now I just wasn't ready to tackle that one. I flushed my cooling system with Evapo-rust Thermocure and distilled water. Drove the coach about 100 miles with that in it, then drained and did did 3 more complete flushes with distilled water. It did cost a little more using only distilled water to flush, but I just didn't want tap water in the system. I don't think you ever get it all out when you drain it. I pulled one of the hoses off of the trans oil cooler to drain. Don't forget to open your heater valve (full hot setting) when you drain, flush and refill. Carey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share Posted April 28, 2023 49 minutes ago, Rikadoo said: Heater hose, when i did my cooling system repairs i decided that for the most part the rubber hoses looked pretty good (80k miles) so i only cut out the hoses attached to the engine, about 3 feet on each (pressure / suction side) and installed silicone hose with the special full circuil clamps then i used 2 ball valves to join the new to the old hoses. The hoses that were attached to the engine were the worst looking of all, that way in case of a problem i could close them off an continue along my way. Exactly what I was thinking. 31 minutes ago, Idoc57 said: Andrew, I took my old hoses off and took them with me. We looked through probably 50 hoses to match up the diameters and the bends. Yeah, a listing would have been nice, but that is a "pipe dream" (pardon the pun). It is not like asking for the upper and lower radiator hoses for a 2018 F-150. If memory serves me, there was a shorter hose that was on the driver's side that was almost straight, but had a slight offset. One end of one of those NAPA hoses has that slight offset and worked perfectly. My hard piping was in great shape. My coach only had 18K miles at the time. I don't think that I replaced the little bypass hoses. As for my heater hoses, they looked really good. I would have changed them out too but, when I looked at what a huge job that would have been, I decided to take my chances and just carry a few feet of heater hose, a couple of double ended barb fittings, and some good quality hose clamps. I figured that if I ever did spring a leak in one of the heater hoses, I could just cut the bad spot out and "patch" it with a piece of new hose. I know it would have been better to replace it all but, for now I just wasn't ready to tackle that one. I flushed my cooling system with Evapo-rust Thermocure and distilled water. Drove the coach about 100 miles with that in it, then drained and did did 3 more complete flushes with distilled water. It did cost a little more using only distilled water to flush, but I just didn't want tap water in the system. I don't think you ever get it all out when you drain it. I pulled one of the hoses off of the trans oil cooler to drain. Don't forget to open your heater valve (full hot setting) when you drain, flush and refill. Carey Great info. Lastly, did you do all of this through the floor or remove the rad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary 05 AMB DST Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 Aren't the heater hoses metal pipe through the tunnel? Gary 05 AMB DST Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share Posted April 28, 2023 10 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said: Aren't the heater hoses metal pipe through the tunnel? Gary 05 AMB DST Good question. I will look into it. Called REV today and no help there. They have no parts, or prints. 3 options I see....find a similar shape pipe from a classic or custom car outfitter, make my own by buying exhaust bends, or go to an exhaust shop and have one bent. I'd just need to install a weld on bung for the 1 fitting. Also, I posted this in the wrong cooling section and I'm sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary 05 AMB DST Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 (edited) On my 05 Ambassador, the tunnel ends after the generator. Open the generator slide and go underneath. You should be able to see to the engine compartment. It's hard to believe that Monaco would really stick us with rubber hoses for 30 feet. Gary 05 AMB DST Edited April 28, 2023 by Gary 05 AMB DST punctuation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craggar Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 1 hour ago, Agpopp said: Good question. I will look into it. Called REV today and no help there. They have no parts, or prints. 3 options I see....find a similar shape pipe from a classic or custom car outfitter, make my own by buying exhaust bends, or go to an exhaust shop and have one bent. I'd just need to install a weld on bung for the 1 fitting. Also, I posted this in the wrong cooling section and I'm sorry! I made my own pipes but any muffler shop can make them as per sample for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted April 29, 2023 Author Share Posted April 29, 2023 1 hour ago, Craggar said: I made my own pipes but any muffler shop can make them as per sample for you. That's what I was thinking would be easiest. Thanks for the reply. More research I did shows the ISB as using regular coolant so that will make the material purchases a bit easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idoc57 Posted April 29, 2023 Share Posted April 29, 2023 22 hours ago, Agpopp said: Exactly what I was thinking. Great info. Lastly, did you do all of this through the floor or remove the rad? I did some through the rear hatch under the bed, but most from under the coach. I would definitely NOT want to pull the radiator assembly. Carey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted April 29, 2023 Author Share Posted April 29, 2023 1 hour ago, Idoc57 said: I did some through the rear hatch under the bed, but most from under the coach. I would definitely NOT want to pull the radiator assembly. Carey I figured I could do the same. I am interested in the procedure if it comes to that just in case. I have found nothing on the web pertaining to the Cayman / Neptune rad removal. I have seen some that said it was done at a shop but no first hand accounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary 05 AMB DST Posted April 29, 2023 Share Posted April 29, 2023 As a second thought, leave a rope or wire in the tunnel when done. It will be there to pull something through later. Gary 05 AMB DST Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted May 2, 2023 Author Share Posted May 2, 2023 Ordered all the parts today, Was going to throw a new thermostat and gasket in while I have it apart, and might as well do the generator at the same time. I'm going to try to do it this weekend, though I'll have to go get that tube made. I'll update as I have progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted May 3, 2023 Author Share Posted May 3, 2023 On 4/28/2023 at 9:44 AM, Idoc57 said: Andrew, I took my old hoses off and took them with me. We looked through probably 50 hoses to match up the diameters and the bends. Yeah, a listing would have been nice, but that is a "pipe dream" (pardon the pun). It is not like asking for the upper and lower radiator hoses for a 2018 F-150. If memory serves me, there was a shorter hose that was on the driver's side that was almost straight, but had a slight offset. One end of one of those NAPA hoses has that slight offset and worked perfectly. My hard piping was in great shape. My coach only had 18K miles at the time. I don't think that I replaced the little bypass hoses. As for my heater hoses, they looked really good. I would have changed them out too but, when I looked at what a huge job that would have been, I decided to take my chances and just carry a few feet of heater hose, a couple of double ended barb fittings, and some good quality hose clamps. I figured that if I ever did spring a leak in one of the heater hoses, I could just cut the bad spot out and "patch" it with a piece of new hose. I know it would have been better to replace it all but, for now I just wasn't ready to tackle that one. I flushed my cooling system with Evapo-rust Thermocure and distilled water. Drove the coach about 100 miles with that in it, then drained and did did 3 more complete flushes with distilled water. It did cost a little more using only distilled water to flush, but I just didn't want tap water in the system. I don't think you ever get it all out when you drain it. I pulled one of the hoses off of the trans oil cooler to drain. Don't forget to open your heater valve (full hot setting) when you drain, flush and refill. Carey Hey Carey, was under the Neptune today and realized there is about a 6 foot section of 1.5 inch hose that runs from the bottom of the pressure tank to the block. Did you deal with that hose? On 4/28/2023 at 5:46 PM, Gary 05 AMB DST said: On my 05 Ambassador, the tunnel ends after the generator. Open the generator slide and go underneath. You should be able to see to the engine compartment. It's hard to believe that Monaco would really stick us with rubber hoses for 30 feet. Gary 05 AMB DST Got under the front today near the heater core. I located a transition from heater hose to what looks like PEX! Pretty sure it is....and the connection is right on top of a crossmember for the stairwell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted May 11, 2023 Author Share Posted May 11, 2023 Picked up my thermostat from Cummins. 65 bucks....I guess cheap insurance. I can't locate the correct type of hose for the overflow tank to block so I guess I'll tear into it and work it out then. Last thing before I start was to decrease and pressure wash what I can to try and stay somewhat clean. Maybe this weekend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert92867 Posted May 11, 2023 Share Posted May 11, 2023 Your upper hose exiting the engine looks like my 2002 ISB. If dimensions match it can be replaced with a Gates 21256. Gates master coolant hose catalog online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted May 11, 2023 Author Share Posted May 11, 2023 Thank you. Check out the post I just made on the main page about hose lookup on the Dayco web site. 5 minutes ago, Robert92867 said: Your upper hose exiting the engine looks like my 2002 ISB. If dimensions match it can be replaced with a Gates 21256. Gates master coolant hose catalog online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idoc57 Posted May 11, 2023 Share Posted May 11, 2023 Andrew, sorry it took me so long to respond to your question. I was out of the country for a week. I did replace the hose from the coolant tank to the block. Mine had a hose with two layers of rubber sandwiching a steel coil. Here is a link to what I used: https://nuwavemarine.com/boat-supplies-accessories/paint-maintenance/hardware/plumbing/marine-hose-clamps/engine-hose/trident-hose-seaflex-hardwall-1-1-2-x-12-5-25011241b/#top It was kind of expensive, but since that is what was on there, I bit the bullet. Carey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted May 11, 2023 Author Share Posted May 11, 2023 5 hours ago, Idoc57 said: Andrew, sorry it took me so long to respond to your question. I was out of the country for a week. I did replace the hose from the coolant tank to the block. Mine had a hose with two layers of rubber sandwiching a steel coil. Here is a link to what I used: https://nuwavemarine.com/boat-supplies-accessories/paint-maintenance/hardware/plumbing/marine-hose-clamps/engine-hose/trident-hose-seaflex-hardwall-1-1-2-x-12-5-25011241b/#top It was kind of expensive, but since that is what was on there, I bit the bullet. Carey Awesome Carey! In fact, thats what I was coming up with through my searches! It is really expensive for what it is. Other thought was to use a corrugated style hose that be easily had since not much water is actually passing through there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted May 14, 2023 Author Share Posted May 14, 2023 Got after it today. Have more work and hoses than I thought. There is a tiny 90 elbow up against the motor that is cracked pretty bad and there are some hoses behind the oil filter I am going ti tackle as well. Getting to be a big job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agpopp Posted May 15, 2023 Author Share Posted May 15, 2023 Ok, got all of the hoses off and got to finally look at the coolant tubes. I think they looked worse than they really are. Surprisingly clean on the inside for what looked like original coolant. I plan on dressing them then primer and paint. The coolant hose from the tank to block turns out to be 37 inches of 1 1/4 heater hose with NAPA markings so I hope to find it. As far as the little hoses, the oil filter had to come off and the little 90s were hard to get to. The one behind the filter is actually silicone, which I was glad to see because it takes some heat where it is. Had to stop for the night, and i need to get some supplies at NAPA before putting it all back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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