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Console Panel Fix


BWatters

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1998 Monaco Executive.  I've been working on various components of this rig for several years for a very good friend.  His console panel was cracked when he acquired the rv but this weekend it totally broke up when he tried to release his parking brake (the previous owner must've broke it since we found someone had previously tried to tape the broken section).  I've been unsuccessful in my search for a replacement console panel on the web and he has struck out calling various salvage yards.  I'm thinking of cutting the bad mid section of the current console out and replacing it with a piece of steel painted black.  He'd end up with three sections of console, with the the middle section consisting of about 2 inches of steel which should provide good support for the brake switch.  It's such a mess I can't think of any other solution.   If anyone knows of a source for a replacement panel or, has any other thoughts for repair, I'd appreciate hearing from you!  Thanks!  

20200610_202354[2].jpg

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There are companies that will make replacement panels custom made to fit your exact panel layout. I don't remember what their names were off hand. Did you happen to look through the Monacoers Parts List to see if someone is listed there?

Edit: I just returned from looking through the parts list which I have on my Laptop and there are listings in there where you can find replacement panels or have a custom one built.

Edited by Dr4Film
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8 hours ago, BWatters said:

 If anyone knows of a source for a replacement panel or, has any other thoughts for repair, I'd appreciate hearing from you!  Thanks!  

 

About 7 years ago I had a custom radio panel made for my '02 Knight by  Custom Instrument Panels (http://www.custominstrumentpanels.com/), They did a wonderful job and at that time it cost $75.

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I repaired mine.  It was not flat like the one in the picture appears to be.  I could not find a replacement and mine has a slight bend in it and a custom was expensive.  Took mine out and fiber glassed the underside and installed steel washers were all the holes were for mounting.  Used a dremel tool cut in all the openings.  Covered the top side with a 3M sheet of what looks like some kind of exotic wood.   Was able to move switches around to different locations during the process and the whole thing was less than 50 bucks, way less.

Roadmiester

09 Dynasty Regal IV

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As you can see from the before and after photos, I had a similar problem with my 2000 Diplomat.  My resolution was to apply a thin sheet of aluminium to the rear, then fixed the damaged areas with fibreglass, finally finishing the job with 3M Carbon Film and stick on lettering. I then applied a small amount of  laquer to the letters to stop them being rubbed image.thumb.jpeg.14c29a5ce9c41fee80e94ef227a8c3fc.jpeg

860B2BB7-A79A-4ED0-9CC8-4DDCF9BAC447.jpeg

Edited by hitechpete
Wrong image
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Guest Tim503

It must be ABS which is the same as sewer pipe. Many things are made with that and the glue melts the plastic so put a piece behind it. I may have one but not for a signature. Try a plastic shop they have a lot of neat stuff. Of course metal and other materials would also work. It takes a lot of pressure to set that parking brake. Bad design.

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I bought a piece of STARBOARD, its a plastic that is used on boats and works like wood.  You can use any woodworking tool to cut, sand and shape..  Using the old colsole as a guide it was pretty easy.  STARBOARD comes in many colors and different thicknesses..\

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  • 1 month later...

I'm sorry to say that I last checked this site for responses a couple days after my original post (6/10) and there were none, so I proceeded with my own resolution.  And today (7/25) is the first time I've received a notice that someone had responded, and today I see many responses!  So thanks to all for all the great ideas, and I see some have been creative and done a professional job of restoration.  As someone stated, it's a bad design as this brake knob will sometimes takes a lot of pressure.  I ended up cutting the bad section out and replacing it with a piece of aluminum (picture of before and after attached).   Much sturdier than the original and good enough for a safe travel season.  Long term we'll keep the custom panel option in mind.  Thanks again for all the suggestions!

20200617_123719.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nice job Hitechpete, that 3M film is not the easiest to work with.  I ended up with a few bubbles doing mine, but it's way better than the broken plastic it used to be.  I would like to build a custom console that would mount above the instrument panel so to be able to keep my eyes on the road while looking at GPS and other things.  I'd really like to remount my Allison shift pad to a better location, up in front of me where I can see the selections.  

Has anyone relocated the shift pad?  I looked into an extension cable for the control but was told they do not make one.  So I would have to splice/solder wires to extend the pad to relocate to the dash in front of me.  But one of these days, I may just take it on.

09 Dynasty Regal IV

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Has anyone here replaced their air brake valve, the big aluminum knob seen in the pictures? I have the new valve, my current one leaks badly. It looks like some simple quick connects to take it off but I want to make sure I'm not putting myself in any danger taking those off.

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If it is like mine, drain the air, push the hose in, hold the little ring where it pushed in and pull on the hose. Then just push the hose into the new one. 

If the hose does not go in anymore, pull the ring towards the body of the valve and pull the hose..

Edited by Ivan K
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1 hour ago, Dennis H said:

Just be prepared for a shock at the difference once it's replaced. Then slap yourself in the head for not replacing it sooner. Ask me how I know....:)....Dennis

Other than leaking, what else was wrong that it fixed?

I'm just ready to not have to listen to that low air alarm for 5 minutes every time I start it!!

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Ok, since we are back on fixing consoles and parking brakes, I'm going to chime in again with some info for everyone who has a broken dash part and wants to fix them properly.  Rob Harper, I'll answer yours first. You'll find the brake will be easier to set and will give you a firmer "pop" when you set it. That said, the plastic bezel is very fragile as there is nothing underneath for support. If you find yours feels that way, since you're disassembling it anyway you might as well fix it better. I got a piece of .80 ga aluminum and had it waterjetted. I then glued the aluminum to the back of the plastic bezel. This gives all the support needed when you apply the brake. I could have cut the holes etc. for the switches with a dremel but for $75 it was done professionally and fit perfectly. The aluminum piece was $3.28. I cannot find the pictures when I did that project, but I'm in the middle of a new one and just got the parts back today. Below is a picture of my middle dash piece. I removed the factory GPS and am going to be installing a new Garmin once it's received. However, I got the aluminum piece back today. The folks at Water Jet made two for me in case I messed one up somehow. :) . Take a look. If you look closely at the middle bottom hole, you'll see the plastic is broken. It's broken at the top too. I'll glue the missing piece which I have once I've attached the aluminum to the dash piece......Ask questions if you have any.....Dennis

IMG_0177.JPG

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Dennis,

COUPLE OF THINGS:

   1. Huge thank-you for all of your thoughts & wisdom, in this post and others!

   2. Could you please share the contact information for your "Water Jet" people?

       (I'm unfamiliar with the "water jet" process, but love their work above!)

TIA,

steve

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34 minutes ago, Gwarsh said:

Dennis,

COUPLE OF THINGS:

   1. Huge thank-you for all of your thoughts & wisdom, in this post and others!

   2. Could you please share the contact information for your "Water Jet" people?

       (I'm unfamiliar with the "water jet" process, but love their work above!)

TIA,

steve

Thanks for the comments, Steve. I use Southwest WaterJet in Phoenix. Link below. For those not familiar with the process, your design is transferred to their computer using a CAD drawing program. That in turn is fed into the water jet processing machine where the design is cut into the metal giving you exact measurements via water cutting. To me, the difference is perfect cuts with no rough/sharp/incorrect edges. They can cut almost any metal and thickness. It's a pretty amazing process. Since they've moved into a larger space in Phoenix, they used to be in Mesa, they've raised their prices a bit but I still feel like they're fair. I paid an $80 set up/CAD fee and $50 to have it cut. That said, I simply took the pieces to them and asked them to do the work. For the left console, I traced that onto paper and they cut it from my drawing which saved me some money. They can cut almost anything you can draw up too. There are cutters nationwide but I usually go back to someone who's provided me with excellent service/results. Since we normally winter in Arizona, I chose them last time and went back again. (We're stuck in this heat this year, ugh) Anyway, HERE is the link.....Dennis

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