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I,m having to replace the front a/c dometic 15.5 low profile on a 2007 dynasty ,according to dometic I can swap the boards out and my 5 button controller will work as usual  , Any thoughts as to this being an option. 

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Dometic can provide the downgrade part number for the ac. I did it in Feb and the provided instructions are quite clear. Doing it will take 30 to 60 mins depending on  your speed and thoroughness. In this way you are downgrading the controls to work with the older thermostat. Keep the board you are removing so that you can reinstall at a later date.

Take photos for future reference. 
 

Be aware the new ac power connector needs some funky tool to install the existing wires into the connector. The connector you can get from Mouser.com however you may ruin it. Cutting the connector off and using a diff one (such as wire nuts) will put the warranty at risk. 

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10 hours ago, Ivan K said:

If the thermostat only controls the unit you are replacing, I personally would keep the new board and get a microair thermostat. 

Maybe?  Question is?  How much for the CC2?  I talked to Microair a few months back.  They said that they don’t really (tech support) understand how the Dometic’s work and the control modules.  They just reverse engineered the CC2 and added “gee whiz” features and they they could not come up with a TStat that was dual purpose….would work with the old CC (5 button) as well as the new CC2.  But there might be features that folks want? My issue was that a few weeks ago I did some research to help another member.  Microair no long has a call in or telephone tech support.  It was, i believe, email us.  Since they don’t know HOW it works then buying their unit is, to me, risky…..but we have many experts.

 However, then if there is an issue….Dometic might say….not our issue….the Tstat is the issue….and conversely, Microair would say…hey, we don’t know what is wrong….our support is for a “working” system.  Get the system working….then call us.

OR MAYBE NOT? We have had a lot of issues just figuring out how the Domeitc works and troubleshooting their complete system.  But, with only ONE Tstat and a new unit….what are the odds?  One could, if one wanted to and planned to upgrade the rest, purchase the CC2, should there be an issue and then save it for rear, and if the long range plan called for the Microair’s featutes, then install it up front….

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In 2021 started to have problems with the rear AC.  In 2015 I had already replaced the motor in the front AC, it had seized up and figured that was the problem with the rear.  I did remove the rear motor and found that the isolation mounting bushings were wore out causing the motor to squat and sometime hit the sheet metal causing the noise my wife heard when she reported the problem.  I wanted to install a new motor figuring it was just a matter of time but I could not find one.  There are generic motors but I didn't want to go that route.  I did replace the rubber mounts and put the AC back together and all was good.

But with ~20 year old AC units I started to think it was maybe time to change.  I was planning trips and my wife travels with dogs so I needed to have confidence in the AC's.

Started looking around, AC units at the time were scarce (really scarce) but I found that PPL had a sale on the 15K BTU high capacity heat pump, a good price $1163 + shipping and tax.  The price is substantially higher now. 

So after thinking about it for a week (don't do nothing without weighing the pro's and con's and doing a cost benefit analysis in my head) I pulled the trigger and ordered two.  I would have had to upgrade the thermostat anyway, PPL recommended the 10 button CCC, but instead I ordered the MicroAir.   Yes more expensive but I thought it had some nice features.

Am very pleased with both, in moderately hot weather ~high 80's one AC unit will keep the coach cool.   The new AC coupled with the MicroAir is great, there are 3 fan speeds to choose from and seems quieter.  The MicroAir was a great upgrade and it was plug and play.   I use the Bluethooth function in the and around the coach once set up it's a great feature.  The WIFI option is great for checking temps while away, starting/stopping AC's and adjusting temps.  There are even alerts if you want to set high or low limits. 

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4 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

In 2021 started to have problems with the rear AC.  In 2015 I had already replaced the motor in the front AC, it had seized up and figured that was the problem with the rear.  I did remove the rear motor and found that the isolation mounting bushings were wore out causing the motor to squat and sometime hit the sheet metal causing the noise my wife heard when she reported the problem.  I wanted to install a new motor figuring it was just a matter of time but I could not find one.  There are generic motors but I didn't want to go that route.  I did replace the rubber mounts and put the AC back together and all was good.

But with ~20 year old AC units I started to think it was maybe time to change.  I was planning trips and my wife travels with dogs so I needed to have confidence in the AC's.

Started looking around, AC units at the time were scarce (really scarce) but I found that PPL had a sale on the 15K BTU high capacity heat pump, a good price $1163 + shipping and tax.  The price is substantially higher now. 

So after thinking about it for a week (don't do nothing without weighing the pro's and con's and doing a cost benefit analysis in my head) I pulled the trigger and ordered two.  I would have had to upgrade the thermostat anyway, PPL recommended the 10 button CCC, but instead I ordered the MicroAir.   Yes more expensive but I thought it had some nice features.

Am very pleased with both, in moderately hot weather ~high 80's one AC unit will keep the coach cool.   The new AC coupled with the MicroAir is great, there are 3 fan speeds to choose from and seems quieter.  The MicroAir was a great upgrade and it was plug and play.   I use the Bluethooth function in the and around the coach once set up it's a great feature.  The WIFI option is great for checking temps while away, starting/stopping AC's and adjusting temps.  There are even alerts if you want to set high or low limits. 

Always good to hear a success story.  The folks that were having issues were frustrated and i wanted to know, from a  “how to help” standpoint, if Microair was going to come out with a simple “chipped” unit that would work, with both the old and the new.  Maybe i got a bum tech support guy, but he had no idea about how the control modules worked, how to configure and also that there were two levels….so you could dumb down a new unit.  Also no plans to provide or develop a combo unit…..which is what we really need….so that it would recognize the older CC control modules and the newer CC2 versions.  

Curious….does the Microair have a provision for a zone 4 as that will be needed for the 2008 Dynasty with the AH running in the private bath?  That was “No IDEA” response that I got.


 

 

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1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

Yes the Microair supports 4 zones. I only use 3 zones with it myself.

Good….thanks.

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2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Always good to hear a success story.  The folks that were having issues were frustrated and i wanted to know, from a  “how to help” standpoint, if Microair was going to come out with a simple “chipped” unit that would work, with both the old and the new.  Maybe i got a bum tech support guy, but he had no idea about how the control modules worked, how to configure and also that there were two levels….so you could dumb down a new unit.  Also no plans to provide or develop a combo unit…..which is what we really need….so that it would recognize the older CC control modules and the newer CC2 versions.  

Curious….does the Microair have a provision for a zone 4 as that will be needed for the 2008 Dynasty with the AH running in the private bath?  That was “No IDEA” response that I got.


 

 

That's why I just decided to change both at the same time.  I knew if I just changed one I'd have to get a new board to communicate with the 5 button. 

Figured if I was going to do it I'd just do both and upgrade to the MicroAir. 

The thermostat immediately recognized both zones and I could turn on/off the AC's.  But I will say that the instructions to be able to connect to Bluetooth and WIFI lack alot, took me a while to figure it out but I'll admit when it comes to tech stuff I ain't the brightest bulb in the bunch.  Ultimately I got it working and since then it's been flawless. 

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17 hours ago, hbr509 said:

I,m having to replace the front a/c dometic 15.5 low profile on a 2007 dynasty ,according to dometic I can swap the boards out and my 5 button controller will work as usual  , Any thoughts as to this being an option. 

Here is an alternate route for you to consider.  This AC unit is tremendously quieter than the Dometic, costs less than the Dometic, doesn't require a Dometic upgrade board, and has an included infared remote control:

- 13.5K BTU Low profile version: https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/

- 15K BTU Standard profile version:  https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-15k-with-heat-pump/

Make sure that you pick the right version for your RV (Ducted or Non-Ducted).

 

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11 minutes ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

I would go with a mechanical thermostat  

Chuck B 2004 Windsor

See next response

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1 hour ago, CAT Stephen said:

Here is an alternate route for you to consider.  This AC unit is tremendously quieter than the Dometic, costs less than the Dometic, doesn't require a Dometic upgrade board, and has an included infared remote control:

- 13.5K BTU Low profile version: https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/

- 15K BTU Standard profile version:  https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-15k-with-heat-pump/

Make sure that you pick the right version for your RV (Ducted or Non-Ducted).

 

Do not know how much is known about all the suggestions as the years and such have made a lot of differences.  

The Dynasty has an Aquahot system.  The wiring for turning on or calling for heat is tied or connected into EACH control module or zone.  So, you want AH or your furnace in the front….zone 1.  The 2 wire switch leg that goes to the AH runs there.  In the 15KW Penguins, this wiring is connected to the controller which is top side.  There are NOT any other wires that were run to any other location.  You want heat….Chuck is right…run or extend the wiring over the ceiling and down to a wall using wire mold.  Then add the mechanical ($75) thermostat.  

if you have a 13.5 KW (maybe the center), THAT controller is in the plenum and that is INSIDE.  Again…you want heat…run the wires…..rear is a 15 KW…see front example.

Bottom line, folks that actually had DuoTherm mechanical thermostats could not make their furnaces work after installing the units also..  Those who installed different brands have had to be creative to get their gas furnace(s) working.  To the best of my knowledge, no one has attempted to install different brands of AC in an AH system due to the incompatibility of the AH leads with the units.  The fancy units, lower priced with BT and such, are NOT compatible as the thermostats do NOT have terminals to trigger or close a circuit for the AH. The successful installation kept the old 5 button Thermostat for “furnace”….some had one furnace….others 2…but they had to have the original Duotherm MPX thermostat working and robbed the controllers out and then set them up.  So in effect….one BT for cooling and the original for heating.

To add further confusion, the 12 VDC Coleman “home style” thermostat, (the Dynasty depends on a phone MPX communication or data cable has NO WIRING or leads going to where the AH wires are) puts out a 12 VDC signal.  OPPS…the Atwood and AH depends on a DRY (not 12 VDC) signal, so an additional furnace relay would have to be added.  Thus the pure (mechanical or Line Voltage) thermostat, as long as you run wires up and to the ceiling….or pull new wires all the eay back to the AH control panel is the best.

SO, if you have a Dynasty….then you will PROBABLY need to find a Thermostat that uses the Dometic phone wiring….and thus also have all Dometic controllers.  

I know folks that stripped out the Duotherms and put in Coleman units and are happy, but they totally rewired or changed the system for heat…

Just fully understand that Monaco used the Dometic and the controllers and such.  And never intended for the AH units to be run or controlled by anything other than the Dometic controllers in each unit.  

NOW….to the stubborn and “enlightened” folks….and i have been there….creative as could be…..and those take such as a challenge.  YES….it could be done….if one FULLY understands the system….and provided one has individual remote sensors in every zone.  It MAY be possible to clip off the sensor and then extend the wiring so that you have 2 leads or a “pair”.  Those remotes are connected to the Dometic controllers.  Then, put a line voltage mechanical (has to have an OFF position) thermostat on the wall to cover the remote hole.  Then Splice in the remote pair to the AH leads.  But….without knowing the type of cable and whether it is capable of carrying a  reliable “closed” signal that the AH can use….check it out.

Hope this helps in the understanding as well as the constraints of the system. The MicoAir is a knockoff or reverse engineered Thermostat.  It totally depends on having the Dometic controller in every zone….and being wired exactly the same…since it gets a data cable MPX signal….or chit chats with the BT app.

That’s it…..we have spent a lot of time offline helping folks out.  In additional, talking to Dometic and AH and researching.  One must full understand what one has and how it operates….BTW….just to make it interesting….the 2008 Dynasty and above may (probably) also have a zone 4 with a hidden controller that lets you use, exclusively, the private toilet AH registers….
 

 

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Key here is that the Houghton rooftop units (RecPro) allow you to completely abandon the expensive and complex interface boards and manufacturer specific thermostats as their controllers are self-contained in these units.  You may also remotely control these units via a SwitchBot infared repeater provided that you have an internet connection on your RV.  These units do not attach to your existic Dometic controls as their controls are self contained.

Compared to spending $100s on controller boards and MicroAir thermostats, the RecPro units are a bargin and are tremendously quieter than Dometic, Coleman, ect. 

 

You will still need to keep your legacy Dometic thermostat installed to control your furnace.

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1 hour ago, CAT Stephen said:

Key here is that the Houghton rooftop units (RecPro) allow you to completely abandon the expensive and complex interface boards and manufacturer specific thermostats as their controllers are self-contained in these units.  You may also remotely control these units via a SwitchBot infared repeater provided that you have an internet connection on your RV.  These units do not attach to your existic Dometic controls as their controls are self contained.

Compared to spending $100s on controller boards and MicroAir thermostats, the RecPro units are a bargin and are tremendously quieter than Dometic, Coleman, ect. 

 

You will still need to keep your legacy Dometic thermostat installed to control your furnace.

Absolutely correct.  We have had good and not so good Houghton installs.  The ones that worked were the ones that folks knew that they had to pirate or raid their old units and also had to fully understand HOW to rewire them as the existing controllers had harnesses.  One individual, who had the least trouble, had both styles (sizes) of units. He pulled out and remounted the 13.5 Kw controller in the plenum. But on the 15 KW, he had to to find (it is in the topic) an enclosure and mount that unit (removed from the roof) inside the plenum as well.  His old Thermostat and the controllers worked.  Then he just traced the wires for the furnaces (he had Atwoods...Dual if I recall and one set of leads for the front and the rear).  He tied them back into each controller or spliced them in.

His old 5 button and the remote in the bedroom worked as before and he has two separate systems.

Some others demoed and threw away the OLD AC's without knowing that the controllers were needed.  They had the 5 button units.  Another member had a different style thermostat....it was like a home unit.  That one had a 12 VDC signal coming from the thermostat.  He pulled out all the wiring first and then could not retrace the wiring for the two furnaces (or maybe one).  Another decided to run wire mold and, I think, purchased the Honeywell Line Voltage thermostat with the OFF position.  That is on Amazon.  Feedback was spotty but we followed up with the one done properly.  So IT DOES WORK....

Thanks for the comment....However, it allows a fuller response to the issues....as well as letting folks that DIY be aware that just yanking and demoing without understanding how to fully integrate the Old with the New needs to be done.  The first individual spent time on the phone with Frank and myself and he had also called Houghton and realized the need for his Legacy system.  As long as folks know the ins and outs and what needs to be done, then it can be done....but going in blind and then trying to sort it out or not having the two controllers (new $175 or so now)....then there are a lot of questions and sometimes they get it working....others?  But we need to have feedback so that folks that do it will succeed the first time and not have to redo or purchase additional parts.

The decision on the features and they ability to do it and having two systems is strictly personal....we have not had any real feedback on the performance of the systems.  However, there are other forums that are dedicated to these systems.  Mostly Airstreams, but many Monaco owners chimed in and there is no other way....either run a separate lead to a wall Thermostat or hold on to your Legacy system.  These posts go back maybe 4 years or so....

 

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As to Bryan's (hbr509) original post, I originally downgraded a new 15k to work with my original 5 button and was happy with it.  Previously I had sequentially replaced the capacitors on all three Units as they failed and got several more years out of the units, but finally had a compressor lockup on the front.  At this time (2021) I ordered one new ccc & 1 down level board & 3 new 15k hp's figuring they'd all start having more problems, but supply chain issues delayed delivery for months and months.  The wall where my front 5 btn thermostat mounts is to narrow for the much wider ccc, thus my back level board was to be able to keep the original 5 btn. Before the new hp's were delivered the blower squirrel cage on the middle unit froze up and it was still in the 100's outside, but I could salvage the blower motor from the front unit and swap it into the middle unit to get by while still waiting for delivery of my new units.  Eventually they were shipped and arrived.  I installed the front replacement with the back level control board and all worked great with the exception of only two speeds on the fan and thus a little noisy. As the other two original units (middle & rear) were still working great at that point, I kept the other two new hp's in my storage unit and went on my way.  Fast forward to late last fall and the recycled middle blower motor finally dies.  In the meantime I had purchased a micro air thermostat at a convention and it was just sitting around for me to do something with it.  So I retrieve one my previously purchased hp units from storage, install it in the middle position & swap it's new control board to the front so I could put the front's down level board in the middle as the rear 5 btn thermostat controls both middle & rear, and try the micro air for the front in that limited wall space.  All is working fine again, two speed fan issue aside.  In storage, I still have 1 new 15k HP & new ccc for when the bedroom unit bites the dust, a functional 5 btn, an old 15k unit that heats/cools but no blower motor, another old beat up penguin thin fiberglass cover, old control boards / capacitors, etc.  Eventually I'll have the down level control board and another 5 btn available too after I eventually swap out the bedroom unit and go to the new ccc.  I'm only around my storage unit a few weeks a year but could be a source of old parts if really needed (but not the new penguin III "in waiting"). As I typically do all my own work, it wasn't a problem swapping control boards and parts around.  If I had to hire the work out, it wouldn't be cost effective & I would have replaced all 3 units at the same time.  But yes, the alternative control board does make the new penguin III heat pump work with a 5 btn, but you only get two fan speeds ... high and not quite as high. So far, I don't believe I have a hidden 4th zone control for my bathroom as the existing 5 btn bedroom thermostat treats the bathroom aqua hot and middle roof top heat pump as zone two and automatically switches from heat pump to aqua hot when really cold, and the middle roof top unit has the two wires for the aqua hot "furnace".  But I guess time will eventually tell when I finally have to swap out the bedroom unit, reinstall the original control board in the middle, and go totally with the new ccc.

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7 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

As to Bryan's (hbr509) original post, I originally downgraded a new 15k to work with my original 5 button and was happy with it.  Previously I had sequentially replaced the capacitors on all three Units as they failed and got several more years out of the units, but finally had a compressor lockup on the front.  At this time (2021) I ordered one new ccc & 1 down level board & 3 new 15k hp's figuring they'd all start having more problems, but supply chain issues delayed delivery for months and months.  The wall where my front 5 btn thermostat mounts is to narrow for the much wider ccc, thus my back level board was to be able to keep the original 5 btn. Before the new hp's were delivered the blower squirrel cage on the middle unit froze up and it was still in the 100's outside, but I could salvage the blower motor from the front unit and swap it into the middle unit to get by while still waiting for delivery of my new units.  Eventually they were shipped and arrived.  I installed the front replacement with the back level control board and all worked great with the exception of only two speeds on the fan and thus a little noisy. As the other two original units (middle & rear) were still working great at that point, I kept the other two new hp's in my storage unit and went on my way.  Fast forward to late last fall and the recycled middle blower motor finally dies.  In the meantime I had purchased a micro air thermostat at a convention and it was just sitting around for me to do something with it.  So I retrieve one my previously purchased hp units from storage, install it in the middle position & swap it's new control board to the front so I could put the front's down level board in the middle as the rear 5 btn thermostat controls both middle & rear, and try the micro air for the front in that limited wall space.  All is working fine again, two speed fan issue aside.  In storage, I still have 1 new 15k HP & new ccc for when the bedroom unit bites the dust, a functional 5 btn, an old 15k unit that heats/cools but no blower motor, another old beat up penguin thin fiberglass cover, old control boards / capacitors, etc.  Eventually I'll have the down level control board and another 5 btn available too after I eventually swap out the bedroom unit and go to the new ccc.  I'm only around my storage unit a few weeks a year but could be a source of old parts if really needed (but not the new penguin III "in waiting"). As I typically do all my own work, it wasn't a problem swapping control boards and parts around.  If I had to hire the work out, it wouldn't be cost effective & I would have replaced all 3 units at the same time.  But yes, the alternative control board does make the new penguin III heat pump work with a 5 btn, but you only get two fan speeds ... high and not quite as high. So far, I don't believe I have a hidden 4th zone control for my bathroom as the existing 5 btn bedroom thermostat treats the bathroom aqua hot and middle roof top heat pump as zone two and automatically switches from heat pump to aqua hot when really cold, and the middle roof top unit has the two wires for the aqua hot "furnace".  But I guess time will eventually tell when I finally have to swap out the bedroom unit, reinstall the original control board in the middle, and go totally with the new ccc.

If you never saw Zone 4, then odds are, on 2007, you never had it. Look on your prints. As long as the furnace or AH works in both the toilet and the hall way or shower area, then odds are. No Zone 4.  

Once you switch to new CC2, the first thing to do after the reset is test the furnace or AH. If it works the same. Good to go. Don't worry about a ghost controller unit the complete conversion

Keep us posted

EDIT....  @amphi_sc

Here are the two prints of the HVAC & AH systems for the 2007 and 2008.  I have been told that on the 08's Monaco MIGHT have hidden TWO controllers or brains....as in....how do we fix this?  BUT, in general, these prints are what we have found to be the "as built" for many in both years.

Look at the 06 & 07 ...they appear to be IDENTICAL....and then count the remote sensors and also look to see if the AH is behaving as it should....as in what controls all the registers.  If yours is working per the print....then there is probably (never say NEVER with Monaco....the Assemblers were creative....LOL), then Odds are just the simple install will work.

 

38071413 (Schematic, Dual Heat Elements, Aqua-hot).pdf 2006 Dynasty HVAC Layout 38041203.pdf HVAC 2007 Signature - ALSO Dynasty and UP.pdf

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Hi Folks, newbie here.

v- 13.5K BTU Low profile version: https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/.  will the shroud/cover of the old [to be replaced  unit] fit the new unit so roof appearance will be the same?

Have to admit I am finding the incompatibilities somewhat scary [even silly].  Years ago when MIDI was introduced the musical equipment companies decided on a global protocol so all product 'talked' to each other.This is also the case re DAW's and plug-ins etc.

How come RV'ers haven't yelled at the manufacturers to be compatible? 

Les

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Update  Installed the new dometic and switched the boards with the old one and no display on controller , Dometic tech said it should work , nope have to call them today and order the down board . Will keep posted . 

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