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I feel sure this Q should be somewhere else, however.

I have a 2004 Cheetah.

When I park I release airbags, lower jacks [front single jack 1st, 2 rears together] and check the bubble.  What I find is the following.   If eg; I have to raise the passenger side of the coach to level the bubble, the drivers side jack is off the ground.  Reasonable one might argue given the coach has been raised, but doesn't it just 'move over' with the jack on the lower side staying in place on the ground [mighty stiff frame.... good].   OK, no biggy, I lower the jack on the drivers side a little and it meets the ground.  Then I find the coach 'wobbles', sways slightly when people move around  It is not solid.  Why is that, is there a fix?

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Guest Ray Davis

I don't even have jacks so I may be way off,  but what comes to my mind is perhaps you need to raise the front more.  My understanding is it's supposed to be like a 3 legged stool and pivot left & right on the front jack.  JMHO

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I have a similar issue.  Quite sure it’s the valve leaking.  Replacement o-ring set has been on back order for quite some time now so I’m not able to confirm.  I have no oil loss, so that’s the most logical and cheapest attempt to fix.  

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Could also cycle/tighten the manual lowering valves just in case they are letting a bit return to the tank. 

Edited by BradHend
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Yes.  Manually operated via constant pressure buttons, jacks will likely be spring return.  
At the pump unit though, there will be a manual release valve for each jack.  If I remember correctly it’s a small bolt with a split pin through it to act as a handle.  Loosen them off and tighten them back up - pretty snug, but dont shear the bolt off. Lol. Then try your jacks again.  Worth a shot. 
If that doesn’t work, you likely need a new ring kit or a new valve altogether. 

Edited by BradHend
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Hi Folks,

 

Putting the front jack 1/2" down did the trick.

 

Thanks to all.

 

Also FWIW years ago the jacks on my Southwind leaked.  QUIN [Caterpillar] had a special oil which I guess expanded the seals and hey presto.

 

L

 

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Hi Gary

 

I was a toolmaker once in my life ;-))

I use the bubble by the jack buttons and I have a small bubble in the fridge.. all good.

THNX

 

Les

 

Not directly connected to this thread but this coach had a toilet 'hutch' which had moved.  It was screwed into place and since has not moved but outside walls have.

Up here in the mountains it is still cold at night......... the gap between the sink surround and the 'wall' is tight.

The gap can be 1/16 to 1/8+ during the heat of the day.

If the body/chassis etc is expanding and contracting considerable amounts might affect the jacking.  

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They all seem to be a bit different. Our 2005 Safari Cheetah has 3 manual levelers. I had a lot of issues at first but found the following worked best: After deploying slides (while aired up as per owner's manual) I release the air then drop the rear jacks first. I adjust until level at rear and then drop the front. This seems to create the most stable support, even with a several week stay. Note: If you are on sand, grass or mud you will likely need to adjust stability over time as the jack feet may sink under the coach weight. We invested in snap pads and that has also helped a good deal as it increases surface area.

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40 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said:

They all seem to be a bit different. Our 2005 Safari Cheetah has 3 manual levelers. I had a lot of issues at first but found the following worked best: After deploying slides (while aired up as per owner's manual) I release the air then drop the rear jacks first. I adjust until level at rear and then drop the front. This seems to create the most stable support, even with a several week stay. Note: If you are on sand, grass or mud you will likely need to adjust stability over time as the jack feet may sink under the coach weight. We invested in snap pads and that has also helped a good deal as it increases surface area.

Unfortunately, that's the way you pop your windshield out as well.

Previous coach had hyd jacks. They advise lowering the front jack(s) till you see your dash raise at least 3", before lowering any rear jacks.

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Hi Ben,

The manual 'could' be deceiving........... page 394 says to lower suspension before leveling than 210 says to extend slides first.

One RV'er with a Cayman lowers first... says he wants everything uot of the bags compartments prior to extending them.  I had lowered and leveled first.  ave to move the rig today so will try the other way.

Pop your windshield out, how/. By moving slides out first or lowering rear jacks first?

Thanks for the info.

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My manual says to put slides out while air bags are full.

Then dump air, put front jack down first to raise the front ~3/4" this allows the front of the coach to pivot.  This will help prevent damage to windshield.  You can lower the front jack more if you need to level front to back. 

The use the rear jacks to level side to side, if necessary raise the front jack or rear jacks to level front to back. 

 

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Ok guys. Unfortunately our couch did not come with an owners manual just the brochure. I can see sense in dropping the front until it makes contact with the ground and perhaps that + 3/4" and then level side to side using the backs, and THEN raising the front some more if needed to level front to back. Raising the front so the dash rises 'at least 3"' to start seems a bit extreme. Depending on how un-level the site is you can at times find yourself leveling and re-leveling multiple times. I may be wrong but always believed the goal was to get level with the least nof lift necessary. This is why I have been leveling side to side first and then front to back. Next go around I will set the front first (+3/4") to create that pivot point and then side to side in the back, adjusting the front last as needed. I guess I should count myself lucky to not have damaged the windshield in the last 5 years. BTW - I use Levelmate-pro and double check with a separate bubble level in the center floor near the fridge and rear axle / jacks just to make sure. I've never really trusted the bubble level on the driver's side panel.

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Raising the dash approx. 3" I mentioned was instructions I got with a National RV MH I had previously. It had two front jacks that were tied together hydraulically.

If Monaco say's all you need is 3/4", that's what it is.

Absolutely, all you want to do is raise enough to level.

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