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The tank comes back with all new sensors and heating element, I had him ship me the one "curly" hose that is for the pre-heat pump, all the rest are standard heater hose.

He also redid the radiator cap flange and pointed the overflow nipple towards the front vrs back of the coach and provided a new cap. 

I will be replacing the exhaust with a 1.5" pipe this time, Monaco only used 1.25 flared it out to 1.5 at the connection to the iron pipe. Specs call for 1.5 inch.. 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I drained the engine coolant, was time to change anyway...

Pulled and replaced the 5/8 heater hoses from the AH to the engine Saturday, takes about 55 feet.  Snaking the hose thru the hard clamps after cutting all the old zip ties and removing the old hoses. It took about 8 hours 1 pair of tyvek coveralls and lots of bad words but it 90% done I was black when I came out.

I have to get a new set of coveralls and and go back under with cable ties and a can of spray foam for the back bulkhead and finish the job.  I can't wait 🙂

I had to order some 1/2 green stripe hose to finish the AH reassembly that should be here tomorrow.

I will post some pictures of the reassembly once it's done. 

Still debating on doing the front half of the heater hoses when I am done, but as hard as the back was I am sure I should, at least it will be a cleaner job, famous last words. 

 

 

 

 

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Got it reassembled mostly and ready for final pieces/parts to be put in once in the rv, hopefully this week. 

All new Green and yellow stripe hoses as well as insulating blanket. 

I used Shark bite brass fitting vrs the plastic ones, I hope to never be this deep in the unit again!

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New hoses from the engine, slipped some pipe insulation over them for the area between the back bulkhead over top of the water tanks. 

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Edited by gburgman2000
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On 8/4/2020 at 10:12 AM, gburgman2000 said:

The tank comes back with all new sensors and heating element, I had him ship me the one "curly" hose that is for the pre-heat pump, all the rest are standard heater hose.

He also redid the radiator cap flange and pointed the overflow nipple towards the front vrs back of the coach and provided a new cap. 

I will be replacing the exhaust with a 1.5" pipe this time, Monaco only used 1.25 flared it out to 1.5 at the connection to the iron pipe. Specs call for 1.5 inch.. 

 

 

No left over parts after assembly 🙂

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  • 2 weeks later...

All back together and working fine.

Total materials to change out the boiler and all hoses.

9 gallons of  Century Boiler concentrate 9 gallons of distilled water (ordered 5 gallon pails direct form Century, much cheaper).

70 feet of 5/8 Green stripe heater hose 

10 feet of 1/2 Green stripe heater hose

1 foot 3/4 Green stripe heater hose

2 dozen big cable ties and 100's of paper towels and 1 tyvek suit.

The engine side.

New water pump from Cummins M&D distributors Part#: 5579024. Old one was not leaking but soon would have.   $181.94 Much beefier than the original,  better flow do to revised impeller.  

7 gallons of antifreeze 7 gallons of distilled water 

Thermostat was new last year so did not change.  

Many hours of fun under the back end to do the hoses.

The front was very simple  roll the generator out and the hoses were right there along the center about 10 foot each 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

I ordered a new tank from John Carrillo, the guy is super helpful. It should be here this week. My question is the hoses that run from the engine preheat coil on the aqua hot tank where do they connect into the engine cooling system? I haven't had a chance to trace them out.

Just in case anyone is wondering what is inside Old style Aqua Hot tank with domestic water on the outside see photos

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Edited by gjh2916
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On 6/16/2020 at 10:15 AM, Ivan K said:

Yeah, tons of fun pulling it out. Good job! I feel your back pain. Luckily, our fresh water loop is external so no need to cut the tank. My problem ended up being a coolant leak by the exhaust pipe, a pin hole. Later, the brass filler neck cracked and separated from the tank. It is just a brass piece soldered to steel pipe... I converted it to non-pressurized system with a nice test plug in place of the cap, used for radiator testing. It overflows into the overflow tank just like it always has, no difference. Since the thermostats will not let it actually reach boiling temperature, it works great ever since. There are ways to repair/replace the neck but it's just much easier this way and functions exactly the same.

Pics for comparison:

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Ivan,

Would you please send me a link or more information regarding the test cap you used to replace the standard pressure cap. I've been looking online and at NAPA. Can't find anything that will work, especially given the tight height clearance.

Thanks.

Gary K

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IMG_3225.thumb.PNG.c1726f2db1616fa72a0357a76db165ae.PNGGary, here is a snapshot of the one I used. I peeled the brass sheetmetal neck off since it was cracked and leaking regardless how I tried to fix it. Thought about JB welding an aluminum neck in but not anymore since the plug works just fine. Including a pic of the aluminum option just in case you might like it better.

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Edited by Ivan K
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1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

Gary, here is a snapshot of the one I used. I peeled the brass sheetmetal neck off since it was cracked and leaking regardless how I tried to fix it. Thought about JB welding an aluminum neck in but not anymore since the plug works just fine. Including a pic of the aluminum option just in case you might like it better.

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Ivan,

Wow, I thought you simply replaced the standard pressure cap with the test cap. If I have it correctly now, you removed the entire neck that was welded into the hole in the tank and then into that tank hole you placed the rubber plug test cap? Very clever! Would never have thought of that.

Were you able to remove the neck with everything in place except probably the sheet metal top of the AH?

I don't think mine is leaking, YET. Want to lower the system pressure as much as possible to reduce the chances of springing a leak somewhere just as many of us did with the engine cooling system caps by going from 13 down to 7 PSI.

Appreciate your time. Thanks.

Gary K

06 Windsor

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Gary, good for you that the neck is not leaking so you could simply insert the plug inside of it if you decide to use it. Just check the diameter to pick the right one.

I did not even have to remove the cover, glad I did not because it is riveted with no good access and I have had it out previously for different reason. The neck wasn't even welded but only poorly soldered in and hardly holding to the steel pipe top. Yes, there is a short piece of steel pipe sticking out through the cover from the tank. Too easy to knock the brass neck off. I can't believe they did it that way, not even brass brazing, just a solder...  I was pretty disappointed when I saw what they have done. Everyone should be super careful twisting the cap off. Hopefully they changed the design on later models, don't know...

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