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Level Floor Slide Latches


Chargerman
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I have HWH slides and I have some questions regarding the mechanism on the sides of the level floor slide. These are the patches that assure the top of the slide is closed tightly when retracted. 
 

1. When I actuate the levers at the bottom The mechanics of it feel real tough. Is this normal?  Both ends feel the same. 
2. I want to remove the plastic rivets to pull the cover off to check them and possibly lubricator them. Will standard aluminum rivets work when replacing the covers?
3. does anyone have a diagram of these as I would like to see how they work prior to pulling the cover (if I decide to do so)

 

thanks!

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While the slide is open I lubricate them 2-3 times every year by pouring or spraying Tri-Flow down from the top opening. Chris T. recommends motor oil. Then I take a pair of vice-grips and clamp it to the bottom lever and work it down and up several times making sure the mechanism is moving freely. I've never had to remove the covers but I know others have had to due to breakage.

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Thank you. 
 

I did try spraying some lube up from the bottom but no improvement. Still sounds like crap. The noice is from near the bottom. Hope to hear from someone about the cover

Edited by Chargerman
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43 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Thank you. 
 

I did try spraying some lube up from the bottom but no improvement. Still sounds like crap. The noice is from near the bottom. Hope to hear from someone about the cover

The bottom won't help you. It has to enter at the top and coat everthing from the top on down at out the bottom.

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They must have made a design change on later models that don’t need them. In my case they are certainly needed to pull the top of the slide in tight when closed. Without then working the top of the slide will remain tipped out when closed. I will try living them from the top down. Didn’t really want to douse them too much and have it running out the bottom making a mess  but I can see that it is needed

 

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Spent some time on the HWH website looking for a diagram of these mechanisms but I do not see them anywhere. Hoping that someone can provide some detail of these with the cover removed. 

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There is something in the File section which might help.  It has a drawing of the mechanism.  Look under the downloads and there is a section on Slides.

Go to drop down, then downloads.  Under the Category at the top, click there (change from All) and you’ll see the slide section which you can select.

From my experience, I would think a good lubing from the top might free up some pivot joints and solve the problem. 

Edited by David White
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If you take the cover off there isn’t much to see. I don’t see that dumping a any kind of lubricant down from the top will make it’s way to the cable roller bearings. Sorry I didn’t take more pictures. If you do removed the cover I would just put back plastic rivets.  Here is a link to the ones I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01913JEKS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

 

EDF746CA-5B70-48B8-A184-85E212DCC9B8.jpeg

008F4EDC-9D07-4240-B174-ABE5F9F546CC.jpeg

9FA7C172-4E79-4FC1-9CD3-E6FB66CFDB93.jpeg

5EC94EDD-4289-4087-909B-CCBF190FF5F9.jpeg

5A9BAAC9-41D3-4FCF-B353-7FA2C3387206.jpeg

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On 6/21/2020 at 5:54 AM, Chargerman said:

2. I want to remove the plastic rivets to pull the cover off to check them and possibly lubricator them. Will standard aluminum rivets work when replacing the covers?

These are “push” rivets, not “pop” rivets. While they don’t have to be the nylon ones, if you do use aluminum pop rivets, be sure to grind or file off any remnants of the “pin” so as not to damage the slide seal when deploying/retracting.
 

George C, 2005 Exec

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Thanks George!

  I didn’t end up removing them. Went and got a good Teflon lube and soaked them good from the top and bottom. What a difference!  Don’t think they were ever lubed and I wouldn’t have know to unless I started to investigate after the actuator plate that was riveted to the side of the Coach popped off. Prior to living them I had a tough time actuating them with an adjustable wrench. Now I can move then freely by hand. Nice!! 
 

Thanks again to everyone that chimed in on this for me. I appreciate the help very much. 

 

Edited by Chargerman
Correct misspelling
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I lubricated mine while still mounted on the Coach. I used a lube with Teflon and squirted a bunch down from the top and also from the bottom while actuating it. Let it sit and soak for a bit then actuated it a bunch of times. Now I can move them both by hand. I think my issue was the rollers not turning freely. Mine did make what sounded like a grinding noise also. 

Edited by Chargerman
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Chargerman,  that’s  what I did too, but I keep an eye on the ease of movement and re-lube occasionally. 

 

Edited by David White
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A generous dose of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) applied from the top works for me.  The ATF lubricates and also has enough detergent qualities to clean away the dirt and grime.  Be sure to place a drip pan under the slide because is does get a bit messy.  There will be some oily residue on the ends of the slide box for awhile, but you can eventually clean it off.

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I have repaired mine twice now. The cable broke each time. It is silver soldered to the stainless. It is a challenge to get it just right but can be done. Lubrication is, as you all say, very necessary. I used assembly lube on the one that I soldered and will use oil on the other one simply because I can pour it in from the top. New assemblies are available (or they were a year ago when I checked) for about $1500 each. ouch! I think one would want to be sure the oil doesn't drip inside the coach when the slide is in. The system is not perfect as I can still hear some wind noise when driving. Just my thoughts to share.

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I had to replace both our slide lock assemblies because they had been neglected.  One had a broken cable and the other was locked up with the bottom lever cut off (courtesy of CW).   You can remove the black plastic cover (drill out rivets) to lube them and reinstall using new black plastic push in rivets.  If you purchase the rivets from Monaco/Rev Group they are very expensive.  I found a large package of the rivets on Granger for 1/10 the cost.  

The slide locks were originally built by Dewald Manufacturing.  The purpose of the slide lock is to prevent the slide from extending while driving.  It's interesting that Monaco only installed them on the drivers side front main slide out.  

Below you see a picture of a broken cable and where the cable is brazed into the bottom lever.  Next is a picture of a new slide lock with the black cover off.   Last is a picture of the new slide lock set.  Yes, they are expensive, so you want to take care of them.  

Also attached is an original drawing from DeWald.  You can see the cable runs the full length of the lock assembly with springs in the middle and rollers in several places.  

The best lube I've found for these is CRC Spray lube with Teflon (green can).

Hope this helps!

 

cable broken from lever.jpg

Front slide lock mounted.jpg

Slideout Lock kit.jpg

Slide Lock breakdown 2.pdf

Edited by vito.a
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