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No 12 volt lights,thermostat, bedroom slide?


Jerry Olson
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2000 Winsor no 12 volt lights, thermostat and bedroom slide out. The front seats and step lights work .  No power to salesman's switch as it won't click so jumpered it and still no lights. I also replaced it as I had a new one I had bought several years ago. Everything worked two weeks ago when we last used it. Refrigerator is working and we have it plugged  in to a 20 amp service. I also tried running generator and nothing changed. Any Ideas? Thanks Jerry

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My 09 had similar loss on 12v. Ended up being a 5amp fuse in black box above batteries. Don’t know about your coach though.

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Are you plugged in to 50 amp or batteries and generator only? If you are plugged in Are you getting two legs of electricity from 50 amp? Check Transfer switch if not. 

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I checked all fuses this morning and all checked ok, both in bedroom and panel on driver side. I also checked at salesman switch and have no power in purple wire or I guess could be no ground. Is there any other fuses in line or somewhere I haven't found? I have wiring diagrams so I think I need to do more checking in the rear compartment with relays etc. there is also a battery isolator lockout and a isolator relay delay. Seems like a lot of hardware for a system that is not even needed.

I am not pugged into 50 amp, I am plugged into a 20 amp source so we can run the refrigerator on AC and it keeps the battery's up. Refrigerator is working fine. 

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I checked inside at the switch on passenger side and had no power to switch. I am going to check rear compartment next. I checked all fuses this morning and all checked out good. When I jumpered the isolator relay yesterday by shorting the two main cable connections together I still had no lights.

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The salesman switch is only switching ground so it will not have positive lead. The solenoid at the back should have permanent positive when the main battery kill switch is on. Or wherever your salesman solenoid is. I have two of them supplying different circuits of the coach so it may be different but the purple wire is ground lead either way.

Edited by Ivan K
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Jerry,

We had a similiar problem last year with our 02 Windsor. We ended up replacing the inverter. Called Xantrex and they walked us through several diagnostic steps with voltmeter to make the determination.  We ended up getting a new Xantrex SW3000 to replace our OEM Xantrex 2000. We also needed to purchase the remote for  inside and adapter connectors for the telephone wire that connects the two units. Caveat: we had to cut the end off of the existing telephone wire and reverse the plug that goes into the adapter on one end, ( I missed or overlooked that in the instructions). With this new unit we did not buy the extra unit that is daisy chained into the system to autostart the generator when the batteries get low.

 

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Find the Battery Cut-Off Solenoid that is controlled by the switch up front by the entry door. Then simply bypass the 12 VDC Solenoid and be done with it. I never understood why anyone would ever want that solenoid in the first place seeing that they are high failure item's. Their only purpose was for lazy sales people to shut 12 VDC power off to the coach after showing the inside to perspective clients. Mine has been bypassed for the past 15 years and haven't missed it for one nano-second.

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I think Jerry's problem right now is locating the salesman solenoid and he got schematics so it should be obvious from there. I have no idea where his is located but someone does. It will make more sense once he finds it. I also bypassed mine when they started to be intermittent when accidentally turned off but mainly to save power as we do a lot of  boondocking. They were not latching solenoids.

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I didn't get anymore checking done as planned yesterday afternoon as I live in Reno NV and it was 98 degrees, just to darn hot and no plans to use it for about 3 weeks. I did change out the salesman solenoid with a new one I had purchased several years ago before reading about bypassing it. At that time with the new one in hand I tapped it and it came unstuck and has worked ever sense. It still might have been ok as I jumpered across the two main terminals and had no improvement.  I know I need to do more checking as there is also a battery cutoff relay and breakers I need to check to get power to bedroom fuse box.

schematic.jpg

Another thought, I do have power to domestic side in the front driver side compartment if that means anything,

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It would appear that what they call a battery cutoff relay IS the salesman solenoid, so what have you actually replaced/ jumped? Since I read it as referring to two different things? Other than that there is nothing but the kill switch, straight cables an a breaker before it goes inside the coach's distribution box.

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1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

It would appear that what they call a battery cutoff relay IS the salesman solenoid, so what have you actually replaced/ jumped? Since I read it as referring to two different things? Other than that there is nothing but the kill switch, straight cables an a breaker before it goes inside the coach's distribution box.

I think you are right, I jumped  the isolator and that is the one I replaced so I was on the wrong relay...…. So all I should need to do is remove the cutoff relay. I am going out to check it out and will post what I find. Thanks

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21 minutes ago, Jerry Olson said:

I think you are right, I jumped  the isolator and that is the one I replaced so I was on the wrong relay...…. So all I should need to do is remove the cutoff relay. I am going out to check it out and will post what I find. Thanks

Success!!! I was on the wrong relay, I don't know how I got it in my head the Isolator was the one I thought I heard the clicking coming from. anyway easy fix just put all three cables on the one post. Thanks to everyone for the help. Jerry

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22 minutes ago, Jerry Olson said:

Success!!! I was on the wrong relay, I don't know how I got it in my head the Isolator was the one I thought I heard the clicking coming from. anyway easy fix just put all three cables on the one post. Thanks to everyone for the help. Jerry

Jerry,

Glad you finally found the Battery Cutoff Relay and fixed your problem.

The Isolator Relay is used to combine the House Battery Bank to the Chassis Battery(s). There should be an AUX START switch on your dash panel which when pushed will activate that solenoid and combine the two separate battery banks together. Your auto charging system should also activate that solenoid when needed.

I would suggest carrying a spare 6 gauge jumper wire with eyes on each end to use if/when your alternator takes a dump. You simply use that jumper cable and install one end on each side of the Isolator Relay. Then start your generator. It will keep the chassis battery fairly charged enough which prevents the engine and transmission from shutting down due to low voltage. It will allow you to drive hundreds of miles to a reputable shop where they  can rebuild your alternator. Do NOT try to drive at night under this situation as the headlights will draw down the voltage too much.

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Thanks, Good to know. I will also unhook the purple wire and tape it up. I feel kinda dumb I should have looked closer at the schematic and followed wires that clearly showed I was on the wrong  relay, which I did after reading Ivan's post. Thanks again, Jerry

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