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Maximum water pressure


saflyer

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I use a 40-50 psi water pressure regulator when hooked to park water.  However, my water flow everywhere I travel is less than adequate.  When I open a faucet the flow starts with a small surge but within a second or two reduces to probably half the initial flow.  So I am thinking of getting a regulator set to a higher pressure, 50-55 psi is what I have found so far, or and adjustable one with a gauge.  My question is what is the maximum safe pressure to regulate to?

Ed    
‘05 HR Ambassador 

 

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That all depends on the quality of your water lines and conections.

 

I never have used a regulator.

I have never had a leak or break in a line or connector.  Fortunately. 

 

I did replace the aqua hot blender valve and uped the hot water blend about 25 % 10 years ago.

 

Continue to clean all faucet screen's 

And try a different set of water filters if you cant find any other problems.

Run the faucet for 10 minutes with ALL the filters removed and see what happens???

20200704_174356.jpg

Edited by John Haggard
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I like 55 - 60 psi. I will not use one of those cheapo water pressure regulators. I purchased a high quality one with a gauge from the RV Water Filter Store.

https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/

I've been to locations where the water pressure was well over 100 psi which is way too much for the PEX fittings to handle, My guess is that 80 psi is pretty much the max before you will start to see problems and leaks.

Edited by Dr4Film
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PEX line ratings vary with temperature. Since your hot water line will have the same pressure as the incoming (post regulator) pressure, it should be kept well below 100 PSI. (Max 100 PSI at 180 degrees F). The factory regulator was more of a restrictor than anything and I dumped it for an adjustable and keep it at 55 PSI but frankly I have not been to a park where the pressure was even close, unlike others. It also makes filling the fresh water tank quite a bit faster now. I hated holding people up behind me as we do not have a gravity fill and 100 gals takes a while...

We should also take into account what is the rating for icemaker line, washer line and other possibilities which I am not aware of but I believe the max acceptable or allowed pressure for household is 80 PSI.

Edited by Ivan K
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51 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Try removing your regulator and see if the flow improves.  Some regulators will severely restrict flow.  

Thanks but not knowing the pressure I have at home makes me hesitant to try.

Ed

 

Edited by saflyer
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1 hour ago, saflyer said:

Thanks but not knowing the pressure I have at home makes me hesitant to try.

Ed

 

Back to basics.  If you are talking about an INLINE (cheapie) regulator, they are notorious for flow restriction.  Some of them are also check valves or back flow preventers.  That really cuts down on the flow.  MOST folks that spend a lot of time out or are experienced will have discarded them over the years.  I did....FINALLY....and wished I had done it sooner.

Watts makes adjustable regulator, but they are more pricey.  They run, now in the $100 or so range.  I used a Camco Cheapie (Monaco included it) and always fussed about the water flow.  When I was out west, there were warning signs about high water pressure.  I stopped by CW and bought the Valterra Valterra Lead-Free Brass Adjustable Water Regulator  for about $65.  It is their mode lA01-1117VP

I have used it since 2015.  The gauge is a much higher quality one....that is Glycerin filled.  It comes set at 55 PSI.  To ease folks fears, MOST of the onboard water pumps are set or work at 65 PSI.  The water systems are typically rated upwards to 75 PSI.  Therefore, the Valterra works just fine out of the box.

You would NOT believe the difference in the flow.  My daughter and GD fussed about the low pressure for rinsing their hair in the shower.  Once I swapped it out..... BINGO, they said....WHAT DID YOU DO?

Someone pointed out that you need to do check your inline filter(s) if you have any.  I can tell you from experience as well as many posts here and on the other sites.....the CHEAPEST filter works fine.  I have a home system that I run the cheap pleated or foam in.  In the Camelot, I use the cheapest Charcoal filter that I can find.  The only reason for the Charcoal is to filter out any chlorine residual.  Many of the private CG, have their own systems and to be safe....they over treat.

The OTHER thing that I suggest is that you put on a Washing Machine Screen Washer to prevent contaminants.  NOW, this will keep out the big stuff.  That protects your City/Fill Valve.  You, of course, can get in microscopic particles....but they will be caught in the water filter (assuming you have one).

My thoughts.... My experience.....as well as Many and I mean MANY posts over the years.

CW has the Valterra for around $64.  Amazon is getting $82 now.....but that may change at any time.  

If you want the more expensive Watts, make sure that you get a good gauge....that is why I chose the Valterra.  From an old maintenance engineering background, I always purchased pressure gauges that were glycerin filled as they lasted longer and also were more accurate.  

Good Luck.  Hope this helps... 

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Guest Tim503

To check the flow is get a 5 gallon bucket and time how long it takes to fill. Your phone may have that timer feature. Flow can be low but the pressure gradually builds up after the flow stops. I only use a pump and with a higher pressure the pump works longer to bring it up to that. Bad for boon docking. My unit has an accumulator tank to help level out the flow to pressure for the old off  and on pumps but these new pumps with quad pass through switches are long running. I suppose the accumulator should come out. I think there is also an issue with the piping in older units having more flex and expanding as they age. Keep in mind to empty your water tanks to put in some fresh chlorine water from the tap to keep them from going to algae. The chlorine dissipates especially if the tank is not full and with warmer temperatures can get out of control. I never clean my tanks and do not use antifreeze. Keep in mind that flow is related to the size of the supply and the amount of people using it. If you have a fire next to your home your flow can go to a dribble.

Edited by Tim503
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From the Monaco manual...

CAUTION:
Some outside water sources develop high water pressure, particularly
in mountainous regions. High water pressure is anything
over 55 psi (pounds per square inch). An additional pressure
regulator can be connected to the city water faucet to regulate
the pressure to the potable water hose. Excessive water
pressure may cause leaks in water lines and on a hot day, cause
the water hose to swell and burst.

I currently use THIS but if you can't find one a Watts regulator from Home Depot will work just as well. Only thing I didn't care about the Watts is the size. I keep that one for a spare....Dennis

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My 06 Diplomat manual also says 55psi max as mentioned above.  

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48 minutes ago, Steven P said:

My 06 Diplomat manual also says 55psi max as mentioned above.  

Thanks. Found that in my book, also.  It’s a little ambiguous. Might be the definition of high pressure rather than maximum.  I’ll take the cautious route and go with it’s the maximum. Waiting for the Valterra valve to get back in stock.

Ed

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11 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Thanks. Found that in my book, also.  It’s a little ambiguous. Might be the definition of high pressure rather than maximum.  I’ll take the cautious route and go with it’s the maximum. Waiting for the Valterra valve to get back in stock.

Ed

The water pumps used in the late 90's and early 2000's were typically rated at 45 PSI.  The later pumps, which were the diaphragm pumps were rated into the 70's.  Many folks have upgraded to the higher pressure pumps with no issues.  

The RVIA code is hard to find....but GENERALLY.....the RV's used Schedule 80 Pex or piping....so the systems were good for 80 PSI.  

Prudence says not to push something.....especially when it is vibrated all the time.  55 PSI to 60 PSI using a Quality (not an inline) Pressure Regulator should not be an issue.  I kicked up my regulator to 62 and then backed it off a few trips later to the factory 55.

The note in the Dip book says "55 or above is considered as HIGH" pressure.  It does NOT say that the RV is only rated to 55 PSI.

 

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It might be useful to note in this thread, my regulator is set at 55psi and I have plenty of water pressure INSIDE the coach for showers etc. This is for a reference point as to whether 55psi is sufficient in a coach.  Things that can affect water coming out of the spigot can be dirty filters, plugged screens, failed valves or leaving the outside shower faucet on with the shower valve off. Oxygenics provides a shower head that mixes air with the water to make you 'feel' like you have more pressure.  Anyway, my point is, that 55psi is sufficient. Upping that to get more water out of the shower head will be a futile attempt if any or all, of the previously noted issues are present.....Dennis

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I have owned one of those for years and use it when we hook up to shore water. I always use a Y first on the spigot then one side has the test gauge and the other side has the Watts Water Pressure Reducer from RV Water Filter Store. That allows me to monitor the water pressure before and after the reducer.

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On 7/4/2020 at 8:39 PM, saflyer said:

>>Valterra A01-1117VP<<

I’d like to get one but everywhere I check it’s out of stock.  Must be a coronavirus thing.
  
Ed

Ed, The last water regulator I purchased was from Grainger, seems like it was in the $115 range with a glycerin filled Gage.

Bill B 07 Dynasty

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On 7/8/2020 at 8:04 AM, Tom Cherry said:

The water pumps used in the late 90's and early 2000's were typically rated at 45 PSI.  The later pumps, which were the diaphragm pumps were rated into the 70's.  Many folks have upgraded to the higher pressure pumps with no issues.  

The RVIA code is hard to find....but GENERALLY.....the RV's used Schedule 80 Pex or piping....so the systems were good for 80 PSI.  

Prudence says not to push something.....especially when it is vibrated all the time.  55 PSI to 60 PSI using a Quality (not an inline) Pressure Regulator should not be an issue.  I kicked up my regulator to 62 and then backed it off a few trips later to the factory 55.

The note in the Dip book says "55 or above is considered as HIGH" pressure.  It does NOT say that the RV is only rated to 55 PSI.

 

I have no idea what the system's design rated pressure is, but mine has seen as high as 110psi and nothing burst, thank goodness.

My pressure pump had been shuddering and struggling as it got close to the high pressure cutoff.

When I put a gauge on it, I found that the electronic pressure switch had gone haywire and  was hitting 110psi before the pump cut out! Needless to say I turned it off and replaced it asap.

Cheers,

Walter

 

 

Edited by wamcneil
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