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Penquin AC Unit Availability


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3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Fascinating.  My 2008 Penguins are 15K each.  That is what the 2 AC Monaco's came with....and if it was a 42, you got the center which was a 13.5K unit.

Thanks for that tidbit....

As another tidbit, My 2007 45 footer came with three 15k pumps.

The problem I will have is replacing the front thermostat as the wall between the spice cabinet door to bath door is only 4 inches wide unless I mount it 2 1/2 feet up from the floor instead of eye level.  Or mount it rotated 90 degrees.  Either way is a problem.... Also have to watch refrigerator door clearance when that slide is retracted if I opt for the other side of the bath door.  The rear (and center unit) wall space is just 6 inches wide so a new CCC2 might barely fit there.

I'm hoping Chris will post the new wiring options on the "H" model he hinted was now plug compatible with the original narrow 5 button thermostat so I can avoid these issues when the time comes.

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On 7/23/2020 at 8:36 PM, throgmartin said:

 

Chris has POSTED a correction and also deleted his previous posts..

I am REVISING this post so that we have the CORRECT info....

Chris.....if there is still an issue or a mistake, PM me and I will fix it....,

As a Moderator, I wanted to see if we could make this a concise topic.....since there are two or possibly three banging around.  SO....if you will help sort this out and correct any misstatements,, we would appreciate it.  I have read and reread and tried to understand what is going on.  I had also talked to Dometic circa 2017/18 and done an update for the old Yahoo site.....so here goes...

Thermostat Issue.  If I understand it correctly.....

Dometic has NOT made any running changes.  If you purchase a NEW "Smart" unit (I assume that this covers the Penguin II as well as the Blizzard NXT....

YOU STILL NEED to SWAP OUT the control board.  You have to order a "12 - 5" Button Module. 

Dometic 3313107.107 CCC2 to CCC 12 Button to 5 Button Heat Pump Conversion Kit RV Parts

NOW , as Chris says.....   KEEP THE OLD BOARD.  DO NOT throw it away.  You need to PHOTO Document the wiring on that board.  EVENTUALLY, when you replace the other unit(s) and install the 12 Button T'Stat, you have to GO BACK.

MANY folks have opted to replace ALL the units.  The NEW or the CONVERSION board runs from maybe $140 tp $200.....depending on where you purchase.  I am GUESSING, but looking at the procedure....you might incur an HOUR or so labor.  That mean that when you DO replace the other unit and purchase the NEW T'Stat, you have to incur the "CHANGE BACK TO ORIGINAL" time.  SO, you MIGHT spend upwards of $400 or more.....just to UTILIZE the OLD 5 Button and keep it runniing for awhile.  That is something that each individual has to decide....

Finally, to summarize.  You have to DUMB DOWN (put in the CONVERSION 12 - 5 Board....which involves totally revising the wiring for the OLD 5 Button to work.

You CANNOT "SMARTEN UP" an OLD Penguin.  SO, you cannot USE the 12 Button T'Stat on an OLD unit.  NOW,  some enterprising tech MIGHT have come up with a workaround.  I am NOT knocking success....but until there is a SURE fix and we have feedback that it WORKS.....We have to go with Chris's techs comments as well as the other shops and also what Dometic says....  IT is either DUMB DOWN one new unit and forgo the expense of a total upgrade....and if you do that and pay a dealer for that....you probably will spend about $400 MORE....you MIGHT sell the conversion board on eBay.....but that will be only a fraction of the cost.  That is why a LOT of folks just bide their time.  When ONE FAILS....bit the bullet and have ALL upgraded.  IF you do it yourself....then you are only OUT the cost of the Conversion Board.

OK>>>>>>MOVING ALONG......

Now to the differences in the Penguins and the Blizzards.....or if we were at a Zoo with a DQ next door, we have issues....

A LOT of us have the TWO (Factory) 15KW Penguins.  My 40 Ft Camelot has marginal cooling with them in really HOT weather.  They have been checked for Delta T and both are running within the specs.....as well as for the HP.  I even was instructed by a Senior Dometic Tech and he had me go through BOTH systems in the fall when I needed AC in the day and Heat at night and mine are FINE.....there may be too many air leaks....

BOTTOM LINE.....If I wanted to put in NEW Dometic Units, then I would HAVE to have 15KW in each one.  The confusion is WHICH unit I would need....  There is a LOT of discussion about the Penguin II's and them being 13.5KW.  BUT if I go to the Dometic website, I find this LINK.

  https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/climate/air-conditioners/rv-air-conditioners/dometic-penguin-ii-w-heat-pump-_-153319

If I scroll down and read the specs.....this is a 15K unit that should be the equivalent of my existing Penguins....in size and capacity....  SO, I could use these....??  IS THAT CORRECT?

Next up, up jumps the Blizzards.....IF I  go to the  following Link.  https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/climate/air-conditioners/rv-air-conditioners/dometic-blizzard-nxt-_-21231

The Blizzard NXT appears, from a cooling standpoint, to be equivalent.  The Blizzard has a "HP Heating" spec but the Penguin II does not.  So here is what I think that I know...

The Blizzard is 14" high.  The Penguin II says 11 1/4, but the brochure says that it is a LOW PROFILE and lists 10".  There is also a comment that you have to have an Air Distribution Box.  Bottom line.....for most of us.....are our OLD Penguins around 11 1/4" ROOF height...so we we swapped to the Blizzard NXT, we would loose 2 3/4" of clearance?  Is that correct

The Blizzard NXT says it has the highest rated (350 CFM) fan.....so I assume that the Penguin II is a lower CFM.  More AIR when Cooling, as long at it not turbine, is typically BETTER.   But MORE air in heating actually is worse as it cools down...

Bottom line....what are the Pro's and Cons' for each one.

Cost?  More efficiency? Noise (blower)?  Customer comments.....

Thanks for addressing this.....There has to be MANY like me that are planning ahead and when ONE dies.....we are going to put in TWO....

I

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Tom, I went back and deleted my previous post. The info that we got from Dometic was wrong. The info we got from our wholesaler was wrong. Dustin was questioning everything and in the end he was right. We finally got through to a Dometic engineer on Monday and he went over the Penguinn II and the prints.

So here is the upshot after discussing this with the Dometic engineer and after Dustin completed the install on a 2008 Dynasty yesterday.

The Penguinn II comes from the factory setup for the 12 button thermostat. If you want to keep your 5 button system then you will have to buy the conversion kit and change the board out on the new Penguin II. Be sure and get the new board from  your tech and store it away. If your other AC unit pukes down the road then you can swap your 5 button T Stat to the new 12 button T stat by removing the conversion control board and re-installing the 12 button board the unit originally came with.

I also want to apologize to everyone for my original post which I deleted. Most of you know when I post something it is spot on because I have done a ton of research on the subject and have called in experts to help me. I got sloppy with this one. I am sorry and just so you know I kicked my own ass over the mistake.

There is also a lesson to be learned. Calling into a company for tech support does not mean you are going to get good advice. We have close contacts with many of the major companies we rep or are dealers for so whenever we call them we go directly to the people in the company who know their stuff. Dometic is one of those companies that is hit and miss. As I have stated before, do not think you are going to call Dometic and get a human being on the other end. We have spent days trying to get through and on Monday it took 4 hours to get through. My advice is to take have a lot of patience if you are going to call them and then hope you get someone who knows what they are talking about. All of their support staff, the last I knew, are working from home.

Tom or Scotty, if one of you can go back and clean up and delete the posts with my original claims I would appreciate it. I would hate to see someone in the future search for this problem and find it.

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Here's what I found in the installation manual regarding specific model numbers.  So it looks like one could specifically order from the factory with the right board for the thermostat of choice.  However, dealers might only keep in stock the one(s) they think would typically sell.

FWIW

Screenshot_20200812-182217.png

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Thanks to Tom for the great information and helping us to sort things out.

So, another thought while we are finetuning this thread.  I now have a new CCC2 thermostat for the new Blizzard NXT front AC which is on a single zone.  The thermostat will handle 3 or more zones, so what is to stop me from running all 3 AC's on the the same thermostat?  Some wiring will need to be relocated but is this doable?

Edited by herbstark
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1 hour ago, herbstark said:

I now have a new CCC2 thermostat for the new Blizzard NXT front AC which is on a single zone.  The thermostat will handle 3 or more zones, so what is to stop me from running all 3 AC's on the the same thermostat?  Some wiring will need to be relocated but is this doable?

Yes it is. All you have to do is daisy-chain the AC's with DATA cables then make sure the Dip Switches on each AC control board is set correctly for the thermostat to recognize each AC as a different zone.

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In addition, I would think you'll have to locate and wire in a remote temp sensor to the roof unit as the parlor living area will heat/cool differently than the bed room.  You probably already have a remote sensor around the bathroom sink area.  You might be able to repurpose the data cable from the thermostat you want to remove and use that for the remote sensor, but I'm not sure of the details.

I'm possibly thinking about that as I only have 4 inches of wall width space where the front thermostat is.

FWIW

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44 minutes ago, amphi_sc said:

In addition, I would think you'll have to locate and wire in a remote temp sensor to the roof unit as the parlor living area will heat/cool differently than the bed room.  You probably already have a remote sensor around the bathroom sink area.  You might be able to repurpose the data cable from the thermostat you want to remove and use that for the remote sensor, but I'm not sure of the details.

I'm possibly thinking about that as I only have 4 inches of wall width space where the front thermostat is.

FWIW

AGAIN....I am NOT the expert.....but I DO try to listen and understand the Experts.

This is generic....but it has plagued folks (even MOI).  The entire Penguin (5 Button or 12 or 10 is there is such a critter) is MULTIPLEXD.

AFTER you install a new board or change a dip switch setting or do whatever......you must do a SYSTEM RESTART....

TURN OFF the T'Stat with the ON/OFF switch....then follow these directions....

Press and hold the MODE and ZONE buttons simultaneously, then turn the ON/OFF switch to the ON position. The LCD will display “FF”.

OK....that is SOMETIMES necessary when the blinkin' thing (the HVAC System) STOPS or you only see ONE zone.  NOW....you can LOSE you zone 2 and that is a sign that you have a Multiplex issues.

The SOLUTION.....CARRY NEW INLINE PHONE CONNECTORS.  Over the years, you have vibration as well as dust and whatever.  The contacts on the phone jacks get FUNKY.  I carried them for years....but when mine went out a few trips ago....they were NOWHERE to be found.  My solution....QTip swab and Rubbing Alcohol.  I cleaned the contacts.  The Phone jacks and the INline connections.  I then did the RESTART.  BINGO....we had both systems.  I know this sounds TRITE.  BUT, you also sometimes have to UNPLUG and REPLUG and then repeat a few times.  THEN do the Reset...

As to REMOTE Sensors.  The typical pathway is this.

Thermostat connector (behind the T-'Stat) goes to the FRONT unit.  There are TWO dangling phone lines from the Unit (on the roof).  This is the CONTROL Board.  These are NOT marked.  They are NO Numbered or Sequenced.  You plug (via the Inline Connector) the line from the T'Stat in to one....and there is a LINE (Phone Line wire) also up there that goes to the NEXT (middle if you have THREE) unit....or the back if you only have TWO.  NOW....back there it gets tricky.  I can't quite figure mine out.  

I have a WALL temp sensor.  It goes to the BOX.  The line from the front Unit comes to the rear.  I do NOT know how they are connected.  All I know is that i have ONE dangling (not connected) wire from the roof top.  One of these days, I'm gonna figure that out....

Thanks to Chris for the UPDATE and the Revisions.  Scotty MAY have done some housekeeping....if NOT, then I will .  That also means that I might KILL some erronious INFO in other posts as well...

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21 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Tom, I went back and deleted my previous post. The info that we got from Dometic was wrong. The info we got from our wholesaler was wrong. Dustin was questioning everything and in the end he was right. We finally got through to a Dometic engineer on Monday and he went over the Penguinn II and the prints.

So here is the upshot after discussing this with the Dometic engineer and after Dustin completed the install on a 2008 Dynasty yesterday.

The Penguinn II comes from the factory setup for the 12 button thermostat. If you want to keep your 5 button system then you will have to buy the conversion kit and change the board out on the new Penguin II. Be sure and get the new board from  your tech and store it away. If your other AC unit pukes down the road then you can swap your 5 button T Stat to the new 12 button T stat by removing the conversion control board and re-installing the 12 button board the unit originally came with.

I also want to apologize to everyone for my original post which I deleted. Most of you know when I post something it is spot on because I have done a ton of research on the subject and have called in experts to help me. I got sloppy with this one. I am sorry and just so you know I kicked my own ass over the mistake.

There is also a lesson to be learned. Calling into a company for tech support does not mean you are going to get good advice. We have close contacts with many of the major companies we rep or are dealers for so whenever we call them we go directly to the people in the company who know their stuff. Dometic is one of those companies that is hit and miss. As I have stated before, do not think you are going to call Dometic and get a human being on the other end. We have spent days trying to get through and on Monday it took 4 hours to get through. My advice is to take have a lot of patience if you are going to call them and then hope you get someone who knows what they are talking about. All of their support staff, the last I knew, are working from home.

Tom or Scotty, if one of you can go back and clean up and delete the posts with my original claims I would appreciate it. I would hate to see someone in the future search for this problem and find it.

Chris....

I fixed this "thread".  I will fix the others....if they need it.

As a dealer and also a person with a LOT of common sense.....when you have time....can you go back to my questions about the Penguin II versus the Blizzard NXT.  I realize that might only be of interest to those of us that USE the Heat Pump....but I still do NOT understand the differences or the advantages of ONE over the OTHER.

Thanks for chiming in  an d correcting this....

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On 8/12/2020 at 6:08 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Chris has POSTED a correction and also deleted his previous posts..

I am REVISING this post so that we have the CORRECT info....

Chris.....if there is still an issue or a mistake, PM me and I will fix it....,

As a Moderator, I wanted to see if we could make this a concise topic.....since there are two or possibly three banging around.  SO....if you will help sort this out and correct any misstatements,, we would appreciate it.  I have read and reread and tried to understand what is going on.  I had also talked to Dometic circa 2017/18 and done an update for the old Yahoo site.....so here goes...

Thermostat Issue.  If I understand it correctly.....

Dometic has NOT made any running changes.  If you purchase a NEW "Smart" unit (I assume that this covers the Penguin II as well as the Blizzard NXT....

YOU STILL NEED to SWAP OUT the control board.  You have to order a "12 - 5" Button Module. 

Dometic 3313107.107 CCC2 to CCC 12 Button to 5 Button Heat Pump Conversion Kit RV Parts

NOW , as Chris says.....   KEEP THE OLD BOARD.  DO NOT throw it away.  You need to PHOTO Document the wiring on that board.  EVENTUALLY, when you replace the other unit(s) and install the 12 Button T'Stat, you have to GO BACK.

MANY folks have opted to replace ALL the units.  The NEW or the CONVERSION board runs from maybe $140 tp $200.....depending on where you purchase.  I am GUESSING, but looking at the procedure....you might incur an HOUR or so labor.  That mean that when you DO replace the other unit and purchase the NEW T'Stat, you have to incur the "CHANGE BACK TO ORIGINAL" time.  SO, you MIGHT spend upwards of $400 or more.....just to UTILIZE the OLD 5 Button and keep it runniing for awhile.  That is something that each individual has to decide....

Finally, to summarize.  You have to DUMB DOWN (put in the CONVERSION 12 - 5 Board....which involves totally revising the wiring for the OLD 5 Button to work.

You CANNOT "SMARTEN UP" an OLD Penguin.  SO, you cannot USE the 12 Button T'Stat on an OLD unit.  NOW,  some enterprising tech MIGHT have come up with a workaround.  I am NOT knocking success....but until there is a SURE fix and we have feedback that it WORKS.....We have to go with Chris's techs comments as well as the other shops and also what Dometic says....  IT is either DUMB DOWN one new unit and forgo the expense of a total upgrade....and if you do that and pay a dealer for that....you probably will spend about $400 MORE....you MIGHT sell the conversion board on eBay.....but that will be only a fraction of the cost.  That is why a LOT of folks just bide their time.  When ONE FAILS....bit the bullet and have ALL upgraded.  IF you do it yourself....then you are only OUT the cost of the Conversion Board.

OK>>>>>>MOVING ALONG......

Now to the differences in the Penguins and the Blizzards.....or if we were at a Zoo with a DQ next door, we have issues....

A LOT of us have the TWO (Factory) 15KW Penguins.  My 40 Ft Camelot has marginal cooling with them in really HOT weather.  They have been checked for Delta T and both are running within the specs.....as well as for the HP.  I even was instructed by a Senior Dometic Tech and he had me go through BOTH systems in the fall when I needed AC in the day and Heat at night and mine are FINE.....there may be too many air leaks....

BOTTOM LINE.....If I wanted to put in NEW Dometic Units, then I would HAVE to have 15KW in each one.  The confusion is WHICH unit I would need....  There is a LOT of discussion about the Penguin II's and them being 13.5KW.  BUT if I go to the Dometic website, I find this LINK.

  https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/climate/air-conditioners/rv-air-conditioners/dometic-penguin-ii-w-heat-pump-_-153319

If I scroll down and read the specs.....this is a 15K unit that should be the equivalent of my existing Penguins....in size and capacity....  SO, I could use these....??  IS THAT CORRECT?

Next up, up jumps the Blizzards.....IF I  go to the  following Link.  https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/climate/air-conditioners/rv-air-conditioners/dometic-blizzard-nxt-_-21231

The Blizzard NXT appears, from a cooling standpoint, to be equivalent.  The Blizzard has a "HP Heating" spec but the Penguin II does not.  So here is what I think that I know...

The Blizzard is 14" high.  The Penguin II says 11 1/4, but the brochure says that it is a LOW PROFILE and lists 10".  There is also a comment that you have to have an Air Distribution Box.  Bottom line.....for most of us.....are our OLD Penguins around 11 1/4" ROOF height...so we we swapped to the Blizzard NXT, we would loose 2 3/4" of clearance?  Is that correct

The Blizzard NXT says it has the highest rated (350 CFM) fan.....so I assume that the Penguin II is a lower CFM.  More AIR when Cooling, as long at it not turbine, is typically BETTER.   But MORE air in heating actually is worse as it cools down...

Bottom line....what are the Pro's and Cons' for each one.

Cost?  More efficiency? Noise (blower)?  Customer comments.....

Thanks for addressing this.....There has to be MANY like me that are planning ahead and when ONE dies.....we are going to put in TWO....

I

I received my new Blizzard NXT and CCCII thermostat.  First the thermostat install.  It was seamless.  I placed it in the same place as my old 5 button, which was on an upper kitchen cabinet at the door to the bathroom from the kitchen.  I was able to use a Dremel type tool to carefully enlarge the hole for the new thermostat to fit flush with the side of the cabinet.  Plenty of room in this location for the wider unit.

The unit itself however required some skills beyond plug and play.  After removing the original Penguin, I thoroughly cleaned the surface of the roof around the 14 x 14 inch hole in the roof.  It took a sander to clean all of the original sealant from the roof. I checked the sealing around the inlet to the ducts and noticed that Blizzard covered the inlet with a much larger opening for the output of the unit.  So I used some duct board and duct tape to make a small plenum over the inlet to my ducts.  If I had not done this, at least half of the output of the AC would have gone into the return air portion of the hole.  The next issue was the mounting holes.  My job probably gets 95% of the output into the duct.  I feel much more output when the AC is running from the registers located in the front of the coach than the old unit had been doing.

The fixed mounting nuts on the Blizzard are entirely different than the original Penguin.  Not just a little off, the lateral holes  were about 4 inches closer on the factory unit.  So each hole had to be relocated.  I used a small long 12 inch x 1/8 inch bit to go down from the top through the fixed mounting nut to the roof for a pilot hole.  After enlarging the pilot hole from the inside of the coach to fit a 1/4 inch x 20 bolt, I installed new bolts that are 2.5 inches long vs the three 5 inch bolts and one all thread rod that the factory used.  (By the way, the all thread rod was not tight) To do all this, the foam shroud had to be removed.  Removal of the shroud was necessary also to check the dip switches on the control board.  The foam shroud makes this unit much more efficient than the old Penguin.

All in all I am tickled pink with the new AC.  I look forward to replacing the 3rd AC (Center) unit and hooking all three up to the new thermostat.  Maybe a project for this fall when it is cooler here in Texas at Escapees.

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Wow! I am sure glad that the Blizzards were not going to work on my coach due to the increased height. Way too much work to modify the mountings to make the Blizzard fit the duct work and get it secured to the roof. The new Penguin-II's were pretty much plug'n'play.

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1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Wow! I am sure glad that the Blizzards were not going to work on my coach due to the increased height. Way too much work to modify the mountings to make the Blizzard fit the duct work and get it secured to the roof. The new Penguin-II's were pretty much plug'n'play.

I have 4 new Penguin II units in stock. 2 just arrived yesterday. Those 2 are going on my coach and I will have Dustin install the 10 button T-Stat. At one time we full timed in Florida so our AC units ran constantly throughout the summer.  They are old and have had a great deal of use. My biggest concern is being somewhere on a trip and having one go out. I would rather have my Tech's do the install versus being at the mercy of some service center with RV techs that are hacks. I am just biting the bullet and replacing the old Penquins and calling it good.

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5 hours ago, throgmartin said:

I have 4 new Penguin II units in stock. 2 just arrived yesterday. Those 2 are going on my coach and I will have Dustin install the 10 button T-Stat. At one time we full timed in Florida so our AC units ran constantly throughout the summer.  They are old and have had a great deal of use. My biggest concern is being somewhere on a trip and having one go out. I would rather have my Tech's do the install versus being at the mercy of some service center with RV techs that are hacks. I am just biting the bullet and replacing the old Penquins and calling it good.

Hey, Old man.....quit eating so much and lose some weight and you won't be a slave to your AC units.  LOL

Thanks for the update.  You and I have the same plan.  Let ONE AC (or the TStat for that matter) go TU and we will have TWO new Penguin II and one New FANCY TStat.  

The post about the PITA conversion from a Penguin II to a Blizzard NXT have convinced me that ain't in MY future....but the write up and explanation was great.  He gets a GOLD STAR (Formal ceremony to follow).

Stay cool....

8 hours ago, herbstark said:

I received my new Blizzard NXT and CCCII thermostat.  First the thermostat install.  It was seamless.  I placed it in the same place as my old 5 button, which was on an upper kitchen cabinet at the door to the bathroom from the kitchen.  I was able to use a Dremel type tool to carefully enlarge the hole for the new thermostat to fit flush with the side of the cabinet.  Plenty of room in this location for the wider unit.

The unit itself however required some skills beyond plug and play.  After removing the original Penguin, I thoroughly cleaned the surface of the roof around the 14 x 14 inch hole in the roof.  It took a sander to clean all of the original sealant from the roof. I checked the sealing around the inlet to the ducts and noticed that Blizzard covered the inlet with a much larger opening for the output of the unit.  So I used some duct board and duct tape to make a small plenum over the inlet to my ducts.  If I had not done this, at least half of the output of the AC would have gone into the return air portion of the hole.  The next issue was the mounting holes.  My job probably gets 95% of the output into the duct.  I feel much more output when the AC is running from the registers located in the front of the coach than the old unit had been doing.

The fixed mounting nuts on the Blizzard are entirely different than the original Penguin.  Not just a little off, the lateral holes  were about 4 inches closer on the factory unit.  So each hole had to be relocated.  I used a small long 12 inch x 1/8 inch bit to go down from the top through the fixed mounting nut to the roof for a pilot hole.  After enlarging the pilot hole from the inside of the coach to fit a 1/4 inch x 20 bolt, I installed new bolts that are 2.5 inches long vs the three 5 inch bolts and one all thread rod that the factory used.  (By the way, the all thread rod was not tight) To do all this, the foam shroud had to be removed.  Removal of the shroud was necessary also to check the dip switches on the control board.  The foam shroud makes this unit much more efficient than the old Penguin.

All in all I am tickled pink with the new AC.  I look forward to replacing the 3rd AC (Center) unit and hooking all three up to the new thermostat.  Maybe a project for this fall when it is cooler here in Texas at Escapees.

Herb....consider yourself a GOLD STAR HVAC CONVERSION POSTER.  Your concise and informative write up was great.  It cleared up quite a few questions.

Namely, I will stay with the Penguin II and not convert.  Your explanation was what I needed.  What is fascinating.....the Blizzard NXT supposedly has a greater or increased Air Flow.  That is GREAT for AC....more velocity the better as it helps in cooling.  BUT, the converse of that is that it decreases the efficiency of the HP side as the increased air flow cools down the heated air faster and you get colder "air" out of the ducts.

The next thought is...  Wonder if the increased airflow is just a result of having a smaller air flow (supply) side plenum.  Maybe the fans are the same.  Basically, you just reduced the size of the plenum to fit the Blizzard.  SOMEWHERE I remember on the Dometic site that there is a "Duct Adapter Kit" (required accessory?) when you read the spec sheets and click on the product.  I wondered about that.  Maybe I saw it when I compared the Blizzard to the NXT.

That makes my call easier.  I will stay with what I have or make sure that the Tech is as meticulous as you are.  You could set up shop at the Gathering and folks might keep you busy....like Chris is...

Thanks again.  NOTE....when you get a chance....do a "paper flutter' or a "feel" test on the output of a single AC ON with FAN ON test.  Turn off the old Penguin and shut off all the interior supply ducts.  Turn on the Penguin and see or observe or estimate the air flow at the nearest duct.  Then close that duct and go to the Blizzard and do the same test (with only one duct open).  Would be interesting to see if you can feel the higher air flow on the Blizzard.

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6 hours ago, throgmartin said:

My biggest concern is being somewhere on a trip and having one go out. I would rather have my Tech's do the install versus being at the mercy of some service center with RV techs that are hacks. I am just biting the bullet and replacing the old Penquins and calling it good.

Yeah, it's not fun... We spent the last week way up in the TX panhandle near Amarillo. The front unit faded on the way up and stopped cooling. That left the two rear units functional, but not much of the bedroom cold air makes its way up front. It got kinda warm in those 106 deg afternoons....

If I can find somebody to buy my two old units I think I'll proactively replace my other two!

Walter

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