Entry step quit working

[Bigdogracing]

Stopped for fuel and steps extended like they should. After filling up went to get back in coach and steps did not retract. They were dead. Found two fuses in the roadside panel marked step and sure enough one was blown. Replaced it. The steps finally retracted but now they will not go back out. Have double checked the entry step switch.  The manual shows it’s a 25 amp fuse although it’s actually a 15 that was in it and what I replaced it with because the diagram also calls for a 15. Any ideas? 
I tired to use a magnet to the door frame magnet as the manual suggested also but that didn’t work either. 
Trying to decide next thing to teat. Any help appreciated

Thank you

[CAT Stephen]

@Bigdogracing,

 

Assuming that your step if manufactured by Kwikee, here is the link to their technical support & troubleshooting:

- https://support.lci1.com/kwikee-steps

The most likely cause at this point since you attempted to trip your magnetic sensor is that the gearbox / motor assembly has failed.  Go thru the guide above to determine the root cause.

[Darren A.]

I recently had same issued and replace the magnetic door switch from Amazon, solved my issue. 

Hope this help 

[Pduggs]

Check the ground wire under the coach near the step. It may need tightening. 

 

[Viper04]

Go purchase a rubber hammer. 
Keep fuses 25s amps handy. Have your wife, with coach engine running flip the retract switch for the steps or the extension switch (which ever is applicable at the moment) 

Quickly with some force tap at first or bang repeatedly on the motor/ transmission step housing. WARNING- watch where you a laying those steps are painful when they catch an arm or shoulder. When the steps sit or get violently slammed (like on most all Tennessee interstates)

rust and corrosion flake off the armature in the step motor and can block the contacts (brushes) from getting power. 
The low power to the motor causes the fuses to pop. Once broken lose and lubed cycle many times before you take off  

 

My dynasty is a 2000 and about 2010 I installed a new 

motor and contact kit. Spent several dollars and a bad back

for the fix. 
 

SURPRISE !😯 2014, it locked in this time. Pulled the hammer

out and bang ❗️ bang - it works. I now keep the hammer handy and the step assembly literally soaked with WD 40 to keep out the Tennessee thunder storm s and our terrible summer humidity. 
 

ps. Our first class A was a 1980 pathfinder DL 454 Chevy. 
The pathfinder had the same step as the Dynasty and the Rubber hammer was used on the pathfinder when with 3 kids at home and buying a new step motor and trans was not even close to being in the family budget. Spray it down, tap it and try to remember to spray and exercise it when you start your generator when you're parked. Hope the 5 dollar fix works for you. 
 

thanks,

v/r,
 

Tim

Camden Tn

2000 Ralph Lauren 

Country club Dynasty 

[Tom Cherry]

OK...THIS IS A MODERATOR's SAFETY MESSAGE.

The steps are a common problem. They depend on a Current Sensing motor as well as a STUPID PLASTIC GEAR.  For ALL MEMBERS...regardless of aging.  If the steps start acting erraticaly...then BE CAREFUL. The Steps DO FAIL...I KNOW...A FACT when they are supposedly extended. This is for the SINGLE step...but maybe the double.

If the GEAR is worn of the STEP are NOT LOCKED in the extended position, they will, when someone exits...COLLASPE.  Then one must have good reflexes or being holding on. This happened to my 16 YO GD.  No problem...she did not fall. BUT, her Grandmother is about 60 odd years older, and at that time, had a bad knee (now replaced). As a retired Safety Director....NEVER, EVER trust steps that operate erraticly.  

FWIW, I lower ALL sides and manually level so that the STEP is low or close to the Ground.  Just for my wife's safety.

The rubber hammer is a bandaid, in my opinion.  The magnets inside have either detached (double stick tape failed) or the mechanism needs lubrication.  When you bang on the motor, that sometimes reseats....but that may be very erratic...the magnets.  If Lubrication does not cure the "step" deployment...and you have to bang it frequently, the motor has failed.  

BET ON THAT.  I used to teach many courses on falls prevention and I can tell you that a simple missing a step or a FAILED motor on the entry step can do major and permanent damage....even to those MUCH younger. I handled too many Workman's Compensation claims for 40 YO employees that were fit and athletic...but just "SLIPPED"  One was totally disabled and had a STIFF leg....Think Chester on Gunsmoke.

Sorry to preach...but it was what my job was and we want all members to be safe and understand the consequences of putting up with a balky or unsafe step system.

[Viper04]

Tom

thanks for the diagnostic breakdown. More experienced owners such as yourself know the tricks to get out of a pinch.

Sharing that knowledge with others is invaluable. Just sharing common knowledge That may help others.

Your safety assessment will guide me to be first out of my coach from now on.

And also give the steps a good 👍 push and pull to ensure lockdown. After 4 deployments and 28 years of ARMY Active duty, two lower back surgeries and spinal surgery on the neck

with a titanium joint and 6 screws, you bet I'll check the steps every time whether I bang them or not. Mine have been replaced once and we don't full time so you are right.

Safety allways first!

ps. Thank you for all that you do for us. The forum discussion s have kept my coach on top notch shape.

 

thanks

 

Tim

[Bigdogracing]

5 hours ago, Viper04 said:

Go purchase a rubber hammer. 
Keep fuses 25s amps handy. Have your wife, with coach engine running flip the retract switch for the steps or the extension switch (which ever is applicable at the moment) 

Quickly with some force tap at first or bang repeatedly on the motor/ transmission step housing. WARNING- watch where you a laying those steps are painful when they catch an arm or shoulder. When the steps sit or get violently slammed (like on most all Tennessee interstates)

rust and corrosion flake off the armature in the step motor and can block the contacts (brushes) from getting power. 
The low power to the motor causes the fuses to pop. Once broken lose and lubed cycle many times before you take off  

 

My dynasty is a 2000 and about 2010 I installed a new 

motor and contact kit. Spent several dollars and a bad back

for the fix. 
 

SURPRISE !😯 2014, it locked in this time. Pulled the hammer

out and bang ❗️ bang - it works. I now keep the hammer handy and the step assembly literally soaked with WD 40 to keep out the Tennessee thunder storm s and our terrible summer humidity. 
 

ps. Our first class A was a 1980 pathfinder DL 454 Chevy. 
The pathfinder had the same step as the Dynasty and the Rubber hammer was used on the pathfinder when with 3 kids at home and buying a new step motor and trans was not even close to being in the family budget. Spray it down, tap it and try to remember to spray and exercise it when you start your generator when you're parked. Hope the 5 dollar fix works for you. 
 

thanks,

v/r,
 

Tim

Camden Tn

2000 Ralph Lauren 

Country club Dynasty 

Thank you- however, I am not locating the 25amp fuse you refer to.... there are the in the roadside electric panel that indicate STEP but those are both small 15 amps. Am I missing one somewhere else?

[Viper04]

Should have been more specific. Make sure you have spare fuses. I clean my steps off with the air hose and then liberally spray WD40 until it literally drips off of everything. 
 

I spray it down before and after each trip and once a month when I load my generator and exercise the coach at least once a month even if I am parked for the winter. 
 

Tim

[cbr046]

WD40 is basically kerosene.  Use a spray lubricant. 

- bob

[Georgia Mike]

I have the drawer style coach steps and they stopped working so I started diagnosing the problem. I have verified that I have both constant 12 volts and ignition keyed 12 volts on the 4 conductor plug under the step. I then checked the ground that comes from the magnetic sensor and it works fine. I redid the grounds for the controller and also the ground for the magnetic switch. I determined that the control box must be bad because no matter what I did I never had any voltage on the pigtail coming out of the control box going to the motor. I got a new control box and the same thing no voltage on the two wires going to the motor. I can’t believe that they are both bad but I’m sending it back and getting another one. I also made sure the wires match up on the 4 conductor plug so I am stumped. One note is there used to be a square control box originally and someone previously charged it to the triangle style box which worked fine ever since I purchased the Motorhome. I made sure the new one matched exactly so am I missing something? 

 

 

[Tom Cherry]

On 8/13/2024 at 4:28 PM, cbr046 said:

WD40 is basically kerosene.  Use a spray lubricant. 

- bob

TRUE...  But it also has penetrating qualities and has a petroleum base and displaces water. I find it is a good "LUBRICANT" on plastic mating parts like sticky push button switches.  The metal gears and rack and such, of course, should be lubricated with a good spray grease.  Lithium based or even garage door lubricant.

However, if there is an accumulation of dirt and other debris and WD-40 is used, that loosens up the GUNK.

It SURE does remove sticky labels from just about anything....That's for sure.

On 8/13/2024 at 4:55 PM, Georgia Mike said:

I have the drawer style coach steps and they stopped working so I started diagnosing the problem. I have verified that I have both constant 12 volts and ignition keyed 12 volts on the 4 conductor plug under the step. I then checked the ground that comes from the magnetic sensor and it works fine. I redid the grounds for the controller and also the ground for the magnetic switch. I determined that the control box must be bad because no matter what I did I never had any voltage on the pigtail coming out of the control box going to the motor. I got a new control box and the same thing no voltage on the two wires going to the motor. I can’t believe that they are both bad but I’m sending it back and getting another one. I also made sure the wires match up on the 4 conductor plug so I am stumped. One note is there used to be a square control box originally and someone previously charged it to the triangle style box which worked fine ever since I purchased the Motorhome. I made sure the new one matched exactly so am I missing something? 

 

 

HEY GUYS...

ANY ideas for Mike. 

The issues that many of us have had....the connectors get wet.  WD-40 will clean them. Then Bulb Grease works.

Lippert (Kwikee) - Entrance Steps Model Kwikee 42 Series Owner's Manual.pdf

Here is the manual that I have in my files.  I collect manuals and such and keep them on my laptop.  I'm NOT familiar with the Kwikee Triangular control.  I'd read the manual.  There are steps.  You may already have gone through them.  BUT, if not....take the time to repeat.

THEN, after you have done that, call Lippert.  The steps in the manual will be the FIRST thing they tell you to do.  The picture of the PN will be key to them.  Have you tried searching for a controller for that specific step and see what pops up.  When you call Lippert...do NOT go to TECH support.  or at least that was what I found a few years ago. PARTS has the info for OEM stuff.  They, tech support, could NOT find my hydraulic system. They transferred, from Tech Support, to Parts.  Then they gave me the INFO.  I'd ask parts for the Lippert number of the Controller.  THEN do some cross referencing.  Once you have the RETAIL PN for the Controller...as well as the STEPS, then call back and talk to Tech Support.  Sounds crazy...but hey...it worked.

Maybe someone has had this issue.

Good Luck.

 

[Pduggs]

On 8/13/2024 at 4:55 PM, Georgia Mike said:

I have the drawer style coach steps and they stopped working so I started diagnosing the problem. I have verified that I have both constant 12 volts and ignition keyed 12 volts on the 4 conductor plug under the step. I then checked the ground that comes from the magnetic sensor and it works fine. I redid the grounds for the controller and also the ground for the magnetic switch. I determined that the control box must be bad because no matter what I did I never had any voltage on the pigtail coming out of the control box going to the motor. I got a new control box and the same thing no voltage on the two wires going to the motor. I can’t believe that they are both bad but I’m sending it back and getting another one. I also made sure the wires match up on the 4 conductor plug so I am stumped. One note is there used to be a square control box originally and someone previously charged it to the triangle style box which worked fine ever since I purchased the Motorhome. I made sure the new one matched exactly so am I missing something? 

 

 

Just a thought, did you open or close the door and check voltage to the motor?  Or see if the motor operates when the door opens or closes. Voltage probably isn’t present unless it’s activated by the door or the switch. 

[Georgia Mike]

23 hours ago, Pduggs said:

Just a thought, did you open or close the door and check voltage to the motor?  Or see if the motor operates when the door opens or closes. Voltage probably isn’t present unless it’s activated by the door or the switch

Thanks Paul, yes I did check with door open and closed and door switch on and off multiple times and still no voltage. I just got my replacement controller in today so I’m going to install it tomorrow and see what happens. If I still have the same problem I will be at a loss as to what to do next.

[Pduggs]

Have you checked the door jamb sensors?  They were the problem with my steps not working. 

[Georgia Mike]

3 hours ago, Pduggs said:

Have you checked the door jamb sensors?  They were the problem with my steps not working.

I went over yesterday and installed the new control box and the steps finally started working fine going in and out with opening and closing the door BUT now when I turn the door switch on to keep the steps out it still closes. I had previously checked the door sensor and made sure it interrupted the ground when I turned it on so now I have to go back and do some more diagnostics. I was too tired to mess with it when I was there. 

[96 EVO]

When I turn my switch 'on', my step retracts when I close the door.

Leave the switch off, step stays out.

[Bigdogracing]

It was the door magnet. Love it when the fox is easy!  Thanks for all y’all’s help