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2007 Holiday Rambler Scepter 42' Bedroom heating up.


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Hello having problems with the back bedroom and closet heating up so much that my breakers are popping. any ideas to help cool down that area? This last trip 100 degrees outside. Running generator to run AC in the back bedroom. Wife had her Crocs starting to melt (Not a happy Wife) Any help would be great 

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My breakers are in the rear closet.  I prop open the mirrored doors so the front of the breaker panel is exposed and we have a small 110 volt portable fan we leave on, pointed towards the panel.    That, and the air conditioners running seem to help.

I made up a piece of aluminum angle that fits in the track to hold the mirror doors open.  Otherwise they would constantly be sliding open and closed, eventually would break or crack.   

Edited by windsorbill06
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I have made a post on here and on irv2 website showing the engine lid locking mechanism I put on the linkage. These hold the engine lid open about 6 to 8 inches while I’m going down the road and everything in the apartment and the bedroom does not heat up.

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Thanks

 

2 hours ago, windsorbill06 said:

My breakers are in the rear closet.  I prop open the mirrored doors so the front of the breaker panel is exposed and we have a small 110 volt portable fan we leave on, pointed towards the panel.    That, and the air conditioners running seem to help.

I made up a piece of aluminum angle that fits in the track to hold the mirror doors open.  Otherwise they would constantly be sliding open and closed, eventually would break or crack.   

Thanks

 

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WHEN you get a chance... you need to do the PM of the Main Panel.

WITH power OFF (no Shore and Genny Circuit Breaker OFF and Solar disconnected)...pull the panel. First...LOOK at the breakers....are they all lined up or are some sagging? Personally, investing in three new Breakers would be my first step.

NOW, when you pull the breakers, inspect the buss or the TAB that the spring contacts grab or push on to. LOTS of times the excessive amperage and heat will PIT the panel tab. DO NOT DESPIAR.  Order some NoAlox from Amazon.  Lowes MAY sell a Gardner Bender Anti Corrosion compound.  This is like toothpaste with ground up aluminum fines. YES...Aluminum as this is for connecting aluminum and copper wires to prevent bimetalism and corrosion.  BUT, it works GREAT to recover pitted buss tab on panels. Use a TOOTHPICK and SPARINGLY put some on the inside tangs of the spring clip and on the mating panel Tab.  THEN tighten every screw or fastener that you see inside.  Pop the NEW breakers in place....and put back on the panel. While you are about if....go to your ATS and tighten down the terminals there.

That's IT.  In the future, if you have an issue....look at the breakers, with the panel off....power can be ON>>>but ONLY LOOK.  Sometime the breakers will drift of sink down.  That causes a high resistance and high heat.

NOW, if the problem persists...ODDS ARE if if happens on AC, then the Capacitors in the units are bad.  Replace them.  The BANDAID...and it is around $350 or so EACH is a SOFT START. That USUALLY occurs on startup...

Eventually, the starting current, even with the Soft Start will exceed the breaker's limit and it is TIME to swap out the system or the units.  THAT is a TOTALLY DIFFERENT TOPIC and one needs to FULLY UNDERSTAND...so not going there..  

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 I have read conversion some time ago, IRV2 maybe, owners were installing a 12v/110v fan/fans in the engine compartment to help exit the hot air toward the rear and out.   I have also seen claims that removing the large rear rock guard helped with air flow to pull heat.  I have seen holes in the back door, basically similar to what TimAZ does. 

 

 

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8 hours ago, rustykramermetalfab said:

Thanks for all the great ideas. I got to looking and my dry vents out the side of motorhome. thinking about running a dryer vent hose over to closet area installing a small fan to suck the heat out. 

open closet door and installing something in the track when traveling down the road to keep it open. will take pictures when done. Cross your fingers. Can't melt anymore of the Wifes crocs !!!

 

 

 

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Monaco has some serious issues with the 06 and 07's....as in the DESIGN was crappy.  When customers complained, there was a Tech Service Bulletin....we have SEARCHED...but to no avail.  Their solution was to CUT cover slots or rectangular holes in the rear engine lid. They then installed a Thermostatically controlled fan.

The fan(s....I think ONE...but maybe was TWO) would pull out or exhaust the air....

The insulation was also puny and sometimes not really attached well.  The 08 and 09 were a VAST improvement.  They changed the mold so there are slots and also a down facing louver in the cover.  BUT, even 09 owners have reported a minor burn from touching the hatch covers.  one had a thin dry cleaning plastic cover (the plastic over the cleaned clothes) and it MELTED.

SEARCH IS YOUR FRIEND....  I used ENGINE and REAR and VENT

https://community.goodsam.com/t5/motorhome-group/excessive-engine-heat-transfering-to-bedroom/td-p/1354515

Read and see if you can discern what the MONACO vent was...  Not certain about the TRUNK...but there was a FIX...

https://community.fmca.com/topic/11019-excess-heat-in-bedroom/

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/hot-camelot-closet-236358.html

 

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