JDPenn Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 I've been laying around under the 2012 F53 chassis and noticed a few things. I was considering changing rear end fluid but am seeing differing opinions on milage, fluids to use, etc. But I'm not sure which rear end this is, and I noticed a potential leak. Is this a leak on the bottom right side? Should it be repaired and fluid changed? I haven't checked the level yet, but plan on doing so. Thanks! JD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 First... Read the OWNERS's MANUAL. There SHOULD be a spec in the CHASSIS section (10? or the last one in the manual). The Capacity of the Differential will be listed there. There is also a Lube Chart (handy to have) as well as a table or matrix of what to use where...and how often. OPPS... NOT FOR THE FORD CHASSIS. Not much there. BUT GOOGLE is your friend. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1598178-2012-f53-rear-axle-fluid-change.html I would take the VIN to a Ford Commercial Truck shop (or call). They can LOOK UP what is in the Differential. They will PROBABLY give you a Ford Spec or FORD Brand of Gear Oil. OK....write it DOWN. THEN google it. There will be a SPEC for it. Can be a TES or an SAE or whatever. Even find an IMAGE of the bottle and blow it up. THEN, you know WHAT SPEC it is or meets. SO....if the link is correct... I would use Mobil DELVAC Synthetic. It is what is used, as a replacement or an Upgrade (in my case). That is a TRUSTED name and it can be found in all sort of "packages" or sizes. "The Lubricant Store" is a trusted vendor....and really reasonable. NOW.....it is hard...for ME.... maybe not others....to tell what your concerns are. IS it DRIPPING or are you seeing some dark spots. I'd Pressure Wash the areas and then see if it returns. If you TRUST an OTR shop, ask their opinion. NOT PREJUDICE against FORD, but if you come in and say. I think my Differential is leaking.....then the answer might be... YES SIR....CAUGHT IT IN TIME....please give me your Credit Card and we'll fixt it... SO, you know WHAT to put back in....if it needs replenishment. I did mine around 50K....using the Delvac and I never PLAN to do that again.... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 (edited) I see very minor seepage on the bottom right, some bigger oily spots on the top right and top left. The spot that really matters is the pinion seal on the other side where the driveshaft attaches to the spinny part. That looks perfectly dry from here. Of course the outer seals inside the brakes are very important also. Sometimes even the axle gasket leaks on the outside of the hub, that's easy in comparison to the inner hub or pinion seal. I'd bet most vehicles never get their axle oil changed, and most fail for reasons other than bad oil. Low oil is far more common than bad oil, so definitely make sure the level is correct, the fluid looks good, and change it now if you want. And keep an eye on things like you're doing. The small seepage in the pic isn't enough oil to worry about, pay attention when it has clean oil on the outside, then STOP before the clean oil stops leaking on it's own. Edited September 10 by Benjamin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadoo Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 So as a retired Ford tech, i will add my 2cents worth, in my opinion, one of the finest differential lubricants is the Motorcraft full synthetic differential lubricant! Dont get me wrong it IS NOT INEXPENSIVE $$$, that said, we had installed it in dump trucks, pick ups, and automobiles. Also during my being part of a race team we first used it in our blown alcohol funny car, then after the team moved on to a Nitro funney car, as you can imagine just the shock load on the two of the latter vehicles was tremondious! Unfortunatly as of the 1st of the year my price was over $25.00 per guart🙀 That alone on a retire budget made me seek a less expensive option, i bought this stuff in 2020 and it was like $10.00 per qt, an when your looking at 15 quarts for a diff service every bit helps. Plus the fact that it was Delo lubricant gave me assurance it had quality, as i use there engine oil exclusively in my rig. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 It would be helpful to provide the PN or such for the Ford Synthetic gear oil. That way, one could find the specs. Did some googling….and here is a post. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/2016-f-53-22k-chassis-rear-differential-oil-change-413884. The spec is SHAES 256 Rev C or SHAES 429 https://cglapps.chevron.com/sdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=406127&docFormat=PDF CERTAINLY not doubting your background or credentials. However, we had a lot of debate and misinformation posted on the old Yahoo site. A POPULAR high performance lubricant or Synthetic Gear Oil was touted and all sorts of hyperbolic remarks about MPG. Turns out….that particular brand and PN was ONLY FOR LIGHT TRUCKS, SUV’s and AUTO…. NOT recommended, reluctantly stated by the vendor, for HD Rear Ends. The DELO®SYN-GEAR XDM DOES list Heavy Duty Trucks. But, if we had the bottle or the Ford PN, then that would verify what the IRV2 post says. Checking the manufacturer’s product and getting the SPEC (s) and then cross referencing to an alternative is the only sure way….and there have been a few “OPPS” over the years. If you can find the Ford PN and the PDF with the spec, which is probably the one listed, that would be great and close the loop. My memory is that on the DP’s….it requires 16 Quarts and you can order or could for $150 - $160….delivered…. That is in the Delo price point. Matter of whether to purchase the OTR rated Mobil DELVAC items or the Chevron DELO. As long as BOTH meet the Ford spec….personal preference and/or cost and availability reigns. Thanks in advance…. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDPenn Posted September 11 Author Share Posted September 11 I crawled back under today to check the rear end fluid. I removed the fill plug, stuck my little finger in, and had fluid on it. It looked fairly clear with a greenish yellow tint. I cleaned a little sludge off the magnet and reinstalled the plug. I checked all bolts and tightened them all a little. My torque wrench was set to 25. I cleaned up the case some and will monitor for and fresh leaks I feel confident now that my rear end is good for now. It's a Dana 80, 4 3 Thanks for everyone's comments! Now on to the next task. JD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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