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I guess you must have missed these on Amazon when you were looking.

I purchased a set of these one year ago on Amazon.

10 Pack Grabber Catch RV Drawer Latch

You have to be selective in the ones you order. You will notice that the set that I ordered come with a small "keeper" versus most of the others that are being sold on Amazon. They usually come with a longer base "keeper".

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My coach uses the same latches, in fact even the replacements cant handle the high usage, for very long i noticed, seems every trip i have to replace one somewhere in the coach. In my rig i have a issue with the lower drawer between the driver an the passenger as it relates to the dash, the wood has split and i used longer screws but to no avail. So my next attempt to find a fix to this is i bought some monkey magnets to see if i can cheat not having to repair the wood in the dash. Figure i will mount them on the bottom of the drawer so as to conceal them.

RUBY Monkey Magnets Cabinet and Drawer Magnet Sets

IMG_6528.thumb.jpeg.8e4a875ff9a13d5eefeef777ede3a4f3.jpeg

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Your absolutely correct Richard, my biggest mass latch replacment blitz was on my trip to SC, in which i took one of my retired work buddies on a OG tour across the country. It was a GREAT time however his continual cabnit slamming the cabnit doors or drawers put a huge dent in my latch reserves🤦‍♂️ plus i noticed the replacement “male” end has a bigger footprint an getting it to align properly is frustrating as you cant use the originl mounting holes.

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I hate that type of RV latch.  They make the RV feel so cheap.  My wife can't stand them due to the force it takes to open a drawer.  She doesn't even use the drawers anymore.  At some point, I will research / engineer an electric latch that engages when moving, and disengages while stopped so that the drawers can be lightly opened and closed when being used.

Or, a Push to open standard deluxe latch.  Something like that.

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7 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

plus i noticed the replacement “male” end has a bigger footprint an getting it to align properly is frustrating as you cant use the original mounting holes.

@Rikadoo If you follow my link to the Amazon latches I had ordered, you will notice that they have the SMALL keeper versus the larger ones that most of the replacement latches come with now. Those will match the holes that you have now. Simple replacement, no new holes.

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Well, my experience is quite a bit different. I have not had one Southco failure…and we have over 700 “nights” out and have usually had guests maybe 50% of the time.  We respect the doors and drawers.  We don’t put 15 pound dumbbells in drawers.  We rarely have a door or drawer “open” when driving.

I have had to replace the sliding mirror door locks at least one or 2 times.  But, that is from the normal shifting of the doors and such.

I agree that proper alignment is needed.  I usually plug, with a thin hardwood dowel…sometimes turned down to a much smaller diameter by chucking up a short piece in a drill and using a wood rasp or coarse sandpaper to get it to “fit” into the old screw hole. A smidge of white wood glue…let it set up…then realign.

Maybe it is just the age of the plastics….  BUT, I would NOT use any replacement unless it was Southco….and I THOUGHT they were still being manufactured….

Check the Parts list.  The cheaper off shore knockoff’s may not be the same quality or have the same life.  15 years of use with a month and a half’s usage per year…plus packing and unpacking…..hard to beat.

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We only latch the doors and drawers while underway. Once we are parked, the doors never get fully latched, no need to. The drawers in our Dynasty have detentes on them so none of those Southco Latches are used. The only drawer that will open while underway is the silverware/utensil drawer which when loaded has a lot of weight. I solved that problem by adding a Surface Bolt Lock to the side of the drawer exactly like what was used on the long storage drawer at the bottom of the sink cabinet next to the Jackknife sofa.

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Thank you Richard, i just placed an order, out of all the ones ordered in the past the only ones i found were what i thought to be the current designer or mfg had misplaced a decimal point changing the original design. Tom i agree on the southco, at work my employer still “had” a couple that i replaced for a customer and you can tell the difference, as good as they were it didnt help much as the drawer had several pieces of cast iron in it🤦‍♂️ i hated using them in a no win situation😡

Its funny Richard i do that with the cabnit that holds my garbage bag, i cant tell you how many times i have told, wife or visitors DONT LATCH IT CLOSED while i go into the reasons… it makes me think im talking in another langauge cause the minute my back is turned i find it latched again😂, makes me a little 🤪 but then im reminded its the journey that matters.

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David, ya know sometimes my mind just doesnt wake up enough even with the 2nd cup of coffee🙃 but lookin at that design i just dont see how the latch will get past the handle… in either direction, perhaps my bride is right… my cheese aint on the cracker no more🤪😂

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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Well, my experience is quite a bit different. I have not had one Southco failure…and we have over 700 “nights” out and have usually had guests maybe 50% of the time.  We respect the doors and drawers.  We don’t put 15 pound dumbbells in drawers.  We rarely have a door or drawer “open” when driving.

I have had to replace the sliding mirror door locks at least one or 2 times.  But, that is from the normal shifting of the doors and such.

I agree that proper alignment is needed.  I usually plug, with a thin hardwood dowel…sometimes turned down to a much smaller diameter by chucking up a short piece in a drill and using a wood rasp or coarse sandpaper to get it to “fit” into the old screw hole. A smidge of white wood glue…let it set up…then realign.

Maybe it is just the age of the plastics….  BUT, I would NOT use any replacement unless it was Southco….and I THOUGHT they were still being manufactured….

Check the Parts list.  The cheaper off shore knockoff’s may not be the same quality or have the same life.  15 years of use with a month and a half’s usage per year…plus packing and unpacking…..hard to beat.

Tom where did you find the sliding mirror door locks ?

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9 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

Tom where did you find the sliding mirror door locks ?

SEA is who made both my sliding (curved) shower door and the two mirrors in the rear.  Shower Enclosures of America,

Traico Marinoff is their “parts” peeson.  Great reaource.  Google them.  Triaco@SEAmerica.com. 800-536-7324 or 909-605-1571.

I did have ONE curved door mount break…easy fix.

On the Camelot’s….Monaco GOOFED on mine.  The inside door should have had a wider piece of wood on the frame where the catch is mounted.  I glued and screwed in a small internal spacer….maybe 3/4” thick by 6” high and 1” deep.  Painted it black.  That allows all the screws to be attached.

FIRST THING.  Adjust the doors for “vertical parallelness” so they hang down uniformly….tighten all the screws and nuts.  Do that or check annually.

THEN…mount the door (mirror) piece. Snap in the mating piece for the frame.  It has a double stick tape on the back.  Then CLOSE the door….the bracket will “stick” if you gently open the door.  I did use a Sharpie and make a few lines….acetone cleans them off. Then you predrill and drive the screws.

@Frank McElroy

Is SEA in the PL?  I thought I added it when I was the curator….

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On 9/13/2024 at 11:24 AM, timaz996 said:

Tom where did you find the sliding mirror door locks ?

@timaz996 I gave up purchasing the plastic closet door locks as they were breaking too frequently. I purchased two adjustable closet rods and placed them into the bottom track to lock the doors from sliding.

I even have a few plastic latches left over that I didn't use.

Plastic RV Sliding Door Latches

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Good luck.  I tried a couple different ones. One from Amazon and one from another.  They were good, but the hook was not screw in compatible so it was either replaced both halves or none.  I repaired the broken hook side with Gorilla Glue and so far, so good.

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2 minutes ago, TomV48 said:

Good luck.  I tried a couple different ones. One from Amazon and one from another.  They were good, but the hook was not screw in compatible so it was either replaced both halves or none.  I repaired the broken hook side with Gorilla Glue and so far, so good.

I'd bet you haven't tried these. They are "plugNplay".

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/9167-cabinet-latches/?do=findComment&comment=97864&_rid=1164

 

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17 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Good to know.  Thanks, but also "may I never need them again"

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Those don’t look like an SEA product….but you can call and send pictures so they can figure out.

However….try googling this.

rv mirror closet door replacement

MANY hits and ads….plus several IRV2 and other resources.

Hope this helps.

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AS Richard has stated, alignment is crucial to the longevity of the latches.

When installing, align best you can. Tighten up the Male side with the pawl leg. Snug up the female side, Use a Q tip and Put some Vaseline in/on the female latching area and on the pawl . Close / open the drawer a few times. Tighten the 2.

I replaced 3 in 10 years full timing.

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