dleeadkins

I bought one here. The owner is extremely knowledgeable. An exact replacement Leece Neville is available. I had my original rebuilt locally and carry that for a spare.

https://www.aj-elec.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAqNSsBhAvEiwAn_tmxYaKzpgPCZjf0Ki1ZDVRL8II7U0SGRKho5KkKT7Hkakfr4rhLHBo3RoCPw0QAvD_BwE

This was my DIRECT REPLACEMENT for my 2002 Windsor 40PKDD.

https://store.aj-elec.com/new-160-amp-alternator-for-applications-with-a-battery-isolator-and-duvac-system

Kristen at Rome Truck Parts had the answer to all my questions. She supplied me with the complete wiper system part numbers based on the number that is on the wiper motor. I bought my arms from them.

Here is the picture of my wiper motor.

Where are these PPV valves located? How many do we have? Are these a source of leaks? 

This file may help.

KE1604UserGuide.pdf

Do you have RVA jacks. The panel that operates the jacks will have their name on it. If so, They have a good website.

https://www.rvajack.com/RVA-Jack-Identification

I want to add a motorized windshield day night shade to my 2002 Monaco Windsor 40PKDD. I need a straight line from the “A” pillar on the drivers side to the passenger side of the coach. To get that I will have to cut down the old TV cabinet that encroaches on that line. Has anyone done this? Do you have any ideas about what worked for you? 

Hello Gene. I have talked to these people a couple of times. They seem to know these systems we have.

https://www.a1electric.com/index.htm

After my Sheppard M100 steering gear began leaking on my 2002 Monaco Windsor 40PKDD,  I have been looking at a swap for the TRW. There is much about the subject on IRV2 Monaco forum. My Sheppard is a M100 PLG3/2. I contacted Weller Truck and was given a number for a TRW swap. Does anyone here have any experience with this swap. The PLG3/2 seems to be one that is not been swapped very often.

I am attempting a Sheppard M100 to the TRW TAS65 swap on my 2002 Windsor 40PKDD. I identified my Sheppard as a model number PLG3 2. This number is stamped on the original Sheppard steering gear.

Weller has specified a replacement TAS65 150M steering gear and a 8079498M pitman arm. 
I have not seen these numbers on anyones swap. The “M” is for “modified”. Per Matt at Weller both the steering gear and the pitman arm must be modified.

Steering gear is $739.81 Pitman arm is $422.19.

Can anyone check to see if these numbers match anything anyone else has used. 
Thanks

I have a compartment door on my 2002 Windsor PKDD that has come loose from the aluminum frame. It appears that it was held together by some type of adhesive or tape. It is a very thin layer holding it together. 

Does anyone know how these were put together? I am contemplating some type of glue to make the repair.

On 8/29/2022 at 8:20 PM, Tom Wallis said:

No one replied to the question about the WFCO T57 and I was curious and looked into it a little. The company has been around since 1976 and is based in Elkhart, IN. I'm happy to pay more for quality and I respect all of your opinions about which are the better brands, however, looking at the WFCO T57 it's almost an exact replacement for my IOTA. All the terminals and knockouts are in the same position and won't require any modifications or rerouting of wires. The Elkhart LPT50BRD has the shore power and generator connections on the opposite sides causing problems like Dennis Z ran into.

So unless someone knows of a problem with the WFCO I would be inclined to go with it just for the ease  of installation.

That is the switch I went with. I talked to their technical people and was satisfied with their product. As you noted, all cables line up. I have used this ATS for a year now. I think it is the best replacement option.

I bought these.

https://pnwtool.com/Prestashop/index.php?id_product=8&controller=product

2002 Monaco Windsor PKDD. Does anyone have any idea what this small red light is for? It is just to the left of the headlight switch. I have never seen it illuminated.

Thank you. 

I discovered on my 2002 Windsor the front auxiliary lights were actually “driving lights”. Meaning, they operate with the HIGH BEAM only. They were wired that way from the factory. I made a change to the relay and wired mine to come in anytime the dash switch is activated. 

All my questions about my “wiper technologies” kit were answered by the customer service at Rome Truck Parts. I would give them a call.

http://rometruckparts.com/

On 2/28/2021 at 3:36 PM, Timothy said:

I need to replace my IOTA. Is there in consensus on the best most direct replacement for the IOTA.

I used this one. It is an exact match as to where the existing cables enter the enclosure. It also carries a UL 1008 standard that the ESCO does not have. It has worked great. Available on Amazon.

https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-t-57/

This one is the one on my 2002 Windsor. It has worked on every other Monaco I have tried it on.

This is what you will see with a modified sine wave inverter.

59 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Chances are your BIRD is only wired to be an IRD. Do you have a Green Lambert Battery Maintainer? Do you have a White-Rogers Battery Isolator Relay? Do You have a Battery Maintainer Lock-Out Relay?

See attached photos.

Yes! I have all of that. My bay looks identical to the pictures. 
 

I believe I was missing the Lambert Maintainer piece of the puzzle. It charges the chassis battery while on Shore power. I guess that is why there was no input from the Coach battery on the BIRD. Why did they not use the BIRD feature to use the converter to charge the chassis battery? Is the Lambert a better charger option?

I believe the nut that I circled will turn and unscrew from the plastic tee.

Here it is.

Yes. That bushing obviously plays an important role in this. I did check mine when I started this ongoing repair saga and mine was in good shape. I’m glad you were able to pinpoint this problem. Now you know several things about your door mechanism!

safe travels

22 hours ago, hilrunr said:

This is an excellent depiction of what is necessary to make the adjustment. I have been having the same problem. Your detailed drawing mitigates my concern about tackling this job myself. Is this drawing from the user manual? If not, what other resource do you have for information? 

I have a 2007 HR Ambassador that needs added freon for the dash AC. Having watched some instructional you tubes (on a Winnebego RV) I assume the high and low pressure lines are mounted to the firewall. When I drop the front panel I see lots of stuff attached and a myriad of covered wires dissappearing into the firewall. I am unable to find a depiction of the firewall naming the various componenets attached to it. Any suggestions?

The drawing is from the attachment that was included with my original post.

7 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

Reading this thread about the door latch inspired me to open my door up this morning (we are in a campground 1200 miles from home, with limited tools.... )

My wife has not been able to open the door as it takes a special 'TUG' and only releases at the very end of outside handle travel.

Less than an hour later, I have a door that she can open easily, releasing the latches at about 1/2 travel of the outside handle.

I adjusted it at three places, the "turnbarrel" (which does not turn one way to shorten and the other to lengthen, but must take one end lose to add or subtract a turn)

The other two adjustments were at the upper and lower latches, just turning the nuts there to take out slack.

Another problem I have been having is that when I try to level my coach if I 'twist' it level with the rear jacks the door "jams" and I get "trapped" in the coach, the inside handle, pulls but the door will not push open.  Somewhere I read that the latch "studs" are supposed to move (up and down)... my upper one moves but the lower one was rock solid.... I got it freed up and now I need to test and see if the door opens now when I "twist" the chassis.   I believe they were designed to move slightly (about 3/16" total travel) to keep them from binding up on the latches with chassis flex.  I'll update when I have tried it.

Ken

You are correct about the “turnbuckle”. I figured that out too. I started to include that piece of information but didn’t want to over complicate things.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the adjustment I made highlighted in yellow. It shortens the length of pull and removes “slack “ in the outside door handle.

Door Bushing Replacement & Latch Adjustment.pdf