a4epilot

Been thinking that exact same idea. Thanks.

Gary K

5 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Doesn't look right to me either, but, you would think a qualified Allison shop would spot that!

It came that way in 2006. Never leaked until 2 years ago so I wouldn't think that's the problem.

I will be taking it to a 3rd Allison Service Center soon. The only reason I posted this problem was in hopes that someone had the same problem and had the answer.

Thanks.

Gary K

The leak is coming from transmission. 

1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

I use a dye and UV light, in fact I just put it in the toad to find a leak. It should make it pretty obvious.

Probably, will take to another Allison service center soon and ask about doing that.

3 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Jim asked about the bottom hole in the bell housing, we can't see it in the pictures but is it oily in that area?    There is a seal up there, so it could leak.   I'm not sure why but they don't plug that hole.  However, I might be tempted to wad a rag & screw it in there for a while.  If the oil is coming from there it should stop & turn the rag red.

Not familiar with the "hole." Have to check it out. However, if that were the problem, the 2 Allison dealers should have found it, I'd think. One dealer had 2 guys looking for over an hour.

Side radiator so no problem. 🙂

All bolts were retorqued. 

Serviced when replacing filters and seals. No issues.

Gary K

Have a very small transmission leak. Lose about 1 qt every 2000 miles or so. Because it's so small and the airflow spreads the fluid all over, it's impossible to determine where it's coming from. Gets on my towed.

Been to 2 Allison service centers and they cannot tell either. They both cleaned the transmission case and I drove it around for a while and then returned for an inspection. The leak was so small that no fluid was visible. They both confirmed it is not a leaking driveshaft seal.

I have always used the transmission control panel electronic fluid level feature to determine fluid level.

When it began, there had been no recent servicing of the transmission. I did replace the filters and related seals just in case that might have been the issue but it was not.

It has not been overfilled and therefore not a possible issue with too much fluid and venting outside at the top of the case.

Looking at the pics, it might appear obvious the leak is the pan seal or the verticle case seal but I don't think so. It appears to collect there only after being driven for many miles. When it is cleaned and then driven, there is no apparent leak anywhere including there. However, that's not to say it isn't a possibility. The only way to know for sure would be to replace both one at a time. If I do anything, I'd replace the pan seal first. Any thoughts about that??

Replacing a qt every few thousand miles in itself is not a problem. The main issue is the fluid sticking to the underside of the case and chassis and worst of all, all over the right side of my towed collecting dirt and diesel exhaust, a mess, and damaging the paint.

Haven't read anyone posting anything like this but hoping someone might have an idea or two.

Thanks in advance.

Gary K

Amen!

Gary K, 06 Windsor 

On 8/21/2023 at 3:59 PM, JacobA said:

We are looking at adding Coachnet, but in reading some topics out here regarding seriously high tow bills after being in an accident and finding CN does not cover any towing if RV was in an accident. Went to our motorhome policy with Foremost and found they only cover $250 for towing expenses - no other options to increase that amount. What are some of you finding with other insurance companies regarding towing your RV after an accident? 

OK, here's the straight skinny on all of this. 😉

After reading these postings, was shocked to realize that all these years I didn't know I probably wouldn't have towing coverage in the event of an accident!

I have Coachnet and Good Sam insurance with National General.

I called both of them and Good Sam Roadside Assistance in addition. Got it all straight, but, to be sure, called them all again the next and asked the same questions. Received the same answers so I'm confident what I'm posting is correct.

1. Coachnet does NOT cover towing in the event of an accident.

2. GS insurance with National General does NOT cover towing in the event of an accident.

3. GS Roadside Assistance DOES cover towing in the event of an accident to the closest facility that can make repairs with no mileage limits. If the coach is totaled, towing is NOT covered.

4. 60 Days from now, Coachnet will be offering full coverage insurance, for the first time ever, that will have towing coverage available in the event of an accident.

There you have it. Out...........✈️

Gary K

Original Goodyears had BIG blowout on right front. HORRIBLE experience!! $15,000.00 damage many years ago. Imagine the cost today. Replaced with Michelin. Began sidewall cracking after only a few years. Went to Toyo M-144. Perfect after 5 years. Only Toyo for me in the future.

Gary K

On 8/13/2023 at 7:11 AM, tomevansfl said:

I believe this is the video referenced above:

The personal experience by a fellow RVer:

Both are worth a watch by every RVer and passenger car driver as well. 

Important info missing. What brand of tire is in this video? If Goodyear, no need to do any testing as they are a well-established POS. I know, Had a right front blow on me a few years back. HELL of a ride!!

Gary K  2006 Windsor

On 8/5/2023 at 11:54 AM, snoracer said:

John and Tom - thanks for the suggestions.  Tom, you mentioned a link but none appears in your post.  Can you PM it to me?  A little more detail on my problem.  I try not to operate the slides on battery power.  I always park on as level a spot as possible, make sure coach is fully aired up., shut down the engine, plug in to shore power, then run the slides out, then only level if needed.  The bed slide is the one thats giving me the problem.  It will start extending for a foot or so then stop.  I let off of the switch for a second, then push it again and the slide starts moving out again for another foot or so.  Usually have to do this several times to reach full extention.   When moving the slide back in, it works perfectly all the way back in.  The wardrobe slide works perfectly.  Temp doesn't seem to make a differance.  I'm wondering if the motor has a bad winding.  

I had this exact experience. Did a lot of troubleshooting. Turned out to be the slide actuation switch that you push to operate the slide. Purchased a new one on Amazon (pretty sure it was Amazon). Easy to replace install. Slide has worked perfectly since.

Gary K

06' Windsor

On 7/23/2023 at 9:24 AM, LakeBob said:

Has anyone replaced the fabric on a Girard awning lately?   I haven't been able to locate any sources on-line other than Lippert/Girard.   

I need to replace the fabric on the entry door awning.

I plan on contacting Lippert tomorrow.

Thanks!

Stone Voss, the ONLY place to go! Untarnished reputation. I've been there for a number of items including replacement of all awnings and slideout covers. Check out their website and you'll clearly understand why they are recommended consistently on this forum.

Gary K, 2006 Windsor

There's nothing wrong. As long as you have shore power connected and the battery charger on, it is supplying a higher voltage than the alternator output voltage, therefore, the alternator senses there is no load connected to it so it does not output anything, therefore, the alt light comes on. If you simply turn off the battery charger, then the alt light will not come on as it sees the 12VDC loads and outputs. 

Happens to me every time if I do as you have. The easiest is to turn off the charger before starting the engine, however, don't forget to turn it on after the engine is shut down.

Regarding running the engine without driving. That's the wrong thing to do. What I'm about to say applies to any internal combustion engine including your diesel. I don't have time to get into the damage that you are doing to the engine but you can do some research to find out. Don't know if Cummins still has the tech phone number but if they do, call and confirm what I'm saying. The only time you should start the engine is if you're going to drive it for at least 20+ miles to bring everything to operating temperature in part to eliminate the harmful contaminates produced at low RPM's by never getting up to operating temps. Idling the engine does damage at any time. Operators who think they have to warm up a diesel are wrong. Ask and they cannot tell you why they do it other than that's what the big trucks do. In fact, that's not what they do. That's what the uninformed think is happening. You have two additional higher RPM idle settings available by using the cruise control switch. If you've been driving and are going to stop for a short time, do not keep the engine at idle. Shut it down if it's going to be for more than a minute or so. OR, if you need to keep it running for some reason, then select the lower of the 2 higher idles available. Allowing the engine to idle at the normal low RPM can overheat the injector pump, the injectors and create harmful deposits in the oil.

As confirmed with Commins engineers, I do not move all winter in AZ & never run the engine for 6-7 months. That's not the best thing to do for many reasons I won't get into now. However, that is better than running the engine without driving. That is the takeaway.

Final point. When ready to drive, the best option is to confirm oil pressure and then drive off at a moderate speed regardless of the outside temps. Yes, even in very cold weather. That's what one should do with a car as well.  When departing an RV park, it's not possible to start the engine and then drive off because there are things that need to be done as you're going through your departure procedure. Keep in mind, idling is harmful so if after you start and move a little and then need to do some additional tasks outside, if it's going to be for more than a short time, shut it down and restart later.

There may be some who will respond with negative comments about what I have written. If so, and even if they don't because you don't know me or my qualifications, go online, do some research and then proceed knowing you have the proper information.

Gary K

15 minutes ago, Michael J said:

That was what I thought as well but it did work with a different switch from a different location with the same amount of switches in this case (6)

Paul Whittle

Hope someone here can sort it out as I'm confused. Thanks.

Gary K

On 2/5/2023 at 9:11 PM, Michael J said:

I also have a problem with one of my multi-plex switches have switched it out with similar one from another location so definitely Is bad circuit board where can I purchase a new one??

How can swapping multiplex switch panels work? Isn't each switch programmed for a different light? I thought doing that would be impossible without have each panel re-programed?

Gary K

1 hour ago, Rick A said:

 

 

Quote: For the past couple of years, at random times, my “interior multiplex light controls” . . . Can you explain what this control is or post a photo? I have a 2005 Diplomat I I confess I don’t know what this is! 

The best thing would be to do a Google search for "multiplex systems in motorhomes." You'll get many hits and some YouTube videos. Then you can go as deep as you want to learn and understand. Much better than me trying to do it here.

Gary K

For the past couple of years, at random times, my interior multiplex light controls freeze where set. Lights that are on stay on and lights that are off cannot be turned on. All the control panel switches are inoperable except for one, the bathroom switch panel. Found it by going around to see if any switches were operable. This was the only one.

If I push any of the 6 switches, everything returns to normal, or, if I unplug the assembly on the backside then re-plug it in, everything returns to normal as well.

As it is, no big deal because it happens on average about once a month. I full-time.

However, my concern is that since something is obviously wrong, it's easy to return to normal now but how long before the problem gets worse and I cannot fix it; disaster.

I have spoken to M&M years ago about a different problem and found them to be easy to contact, very willing and helpful. Before I call them about this, decided to post and see what information is out there.

Thank you in advance.

Gary K   06 Windsor

Thank you to everyone who responded to my question regarding the use of a full cover.

I determined, from your responses, that they do work and are worth the money and time.

Gary K

I'm considering leaving my 2006 Windsor outside in northern ID for the winter using a high-quality complete cover. 

The water system will be properly winterized. Electrical power will be available to keep the batteries charged but I don't want to rely on it to keep the Aqua Hot connected if the power should fail when no one is around, therefore, the reason to winterize.

Approximately, twice a month someone will be there to look it over inside and outside.

I fully understand the possibility of chafing damage to the paint if the cover is not applied properly so I don't think that would be a high risk.

What kind of damage could be done during the storage as it will be subject to sub-freezing temperatures for long periods?

Is it worth the risk?

Inside storage is not available.

Thanks. 

Gary K

52 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

That's quite a bit to seep from a gasket.  How have you determined where the leak is?

My 03 Windsor developed a leak from the Hydraulic pump.  It's about level with the starter but towards the back of the coach.   It has 4 long bolts that hold it all together, one was stipped allowing quite a leak.   To get by I bought a bundle of towels and placed one to catch the oil then I would throw it away and add a new one.      After getting home I contacted http://www.nwrvsupply.com/.  The lady there was so helpful, I can't say enough good things.  Anyway she found me a new pump and believe it or not for close to half the price of a used one.  I tried to get my old one rebuilt but after it laid at the hydraulic shop for weeks I decided I should pick it up before it disappeared.  They said the man that does small jobs drinks a lot and comes in when he feels like it.   I guess that's where we are today.

So that is an area that can leak fluid too and mine is red, same as transmission fluid

If it is infact the transmission gasket, replacing should be pretty simple.  Just about anyone could do it even me.  

My error on leakage rate. It's 1 qt/5 hours.

Gary K

32 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Are you sure it's coming from the pan?  Ours was leaking, but it was the lube hose that goes to the hydraulic pump on the passenger side.  The hose had rubbed through.  

Not a hose. I can see the area on the bottom of the case that is the source. Cleaned it up and then checked some miles later. 90% sure it is a seal. Thanks.

Gary K

18 minutes ago, Ashton said:

There is no pan, But a valve body assy. got my gasket from Border international on motel rd. Las Cruces  Check your oil filter plates possible O Rings. Good luck.

I'd be interested in more info as to why you replaced the gasket. Did it begin to leak? How bad? etc.

It's not the O rings.

I did speak with Boarder but the one Allison mechanic is out sick and booked 3 weeks out. They also have many bad reviews.

I'm staying in Ruidoso for a few months so not time critical.

Thanks.

Gary K

Anyone know of a reliable Allison repair shop in El Paso or Las Cruses?

Appears that my 3000 sump pan gasket is leaking about 1 qt/hour. It's all on my TOWED now.  😒

I found a number of authorized facilities in both cities but lots of bad reviews too.

Thanks!

Gary K,  2006 Windsor

22 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Glad you are making progress.  Richard has good trouble shooting experience as well as Windsor knowledge.

Yes, it could be the switches, but your comment about the small slide current, I think. Is in error.  The slide switches only pull milliamperes of current.  They power the control relays which switch the 30 amp Bosch relays. Those switches are usually rated at 15 - 20 amps….  OK for lower draw and fused circuits.   Typically, when a slide is erratic  and doesn’t work at all, AND you see some dimming or lights drop out, then one suspects a bad connection.  The slides have, as you recall, 4 relays and they will switch 30 amps.

 YES, like any electro mechanical part, frequent cycling can play havoc.  Once you install the new switches, then that should tell the tale. The pause or hesitation that you reported is more of a symptom of high amperage draw and a resettable circuit breaker resetting.  You may want to replace the circuit breaker if this happens again and then see what happens.  If the problem comes back, then there has to be, assuming you have good batteries, a loose of faulty connection…which could even be in the Main House battery switch….but you would really see that in your front hydraulic slides.

Keep us informed….

Tom, excellent point about the switch load. I knew that but just didn't think it through. A little embarrassing as I have a good electrical background even with circuit design; however, you'd never know from my post. 😒 

I just received a new resettable fuse. Will install after I receive the 2 new switches coming tomorrow then keep my fingers crossed. 🤞🙂

Batteries are good and master cutout switches were replaced with high quality marine ones some years back. No other 12 VDC issues anywhere. However, slide relays still original.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. Always much appreciated!

Gary K