johncvandoren@gmail.com

My 25’ road side super slide goes out crooked, in that the rear moves first, with the front lagging behind 5-6”.  $500 later, two shops & one mobile mechanic have just topped off the fluid and said nothing else to be done.  What say you?

I’ve had success ordering replacement male & female Molex connectors to solder onto the CB & re-pin onto the cables.

https://a.co/d/dhA1AwP

tool:

https://a.co/d/bTZ1lop

Does anyone know the amp draw of that rear-mounted inverter cabinet fan with the 100°/90° snap disc?

John

’06 Knight 40DFD

’06 Honda Pilot EX-L

On 1/17/2022 at 6:30 PM, Frank McElroy said:

This message is a notification to let you know that I just posted a new Parts List Update to the files. 

Under Downloads you will find the parts list as the top category.  There are over 200 pages of information on parts and in many cases vendors where you can buy them.

If web site clickable links don't work, please copy and paste the link to your browser.

To get full functionality of the word search feature, it's generally best to save a copy of this file to your computer and open it with acrobat reader vs opening it from your internet browser.

Reminder - Parts List is for the Bill D's Monacoers.org members PERSONAL USE ONLY.

I want to thank all those who, over the past two years, posted parts information and sent me updates offline.  It was all very helpful information. 

Please continue to send me parts info for future updates.

 

Frank,

I can’t seem to find the “defroster fans” up by the windshield.  They are two-speed fans with three wires, controlled by two “on-off-on” switches on the dash in front of the passenger seat.  Searches only reveal engine cooling fans.

Sorry my signature didn’t go through:

John Van Doren

’06 Monaco Knight 40 DFD

5 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

John, The fridge is not on a slide. It is mounted above a furnace. As I recall the original Norcold had the 4 12v lines connected to the circuit board (CB). Two may have been incoming current and the other two (small gauge) might have been 12v current from the CB to another connection down stream.

I found that Monaco “hid” three or more fuses in different places.  One on the 12v panel below the main 120v CB panel in the rear bath, one in the front run bay beneath the driver’s seat, and one on the Norcold circuit board.  There was also a 120V tube-type fuse on that board for the electric heater elements, in addition to one CB labeled “Refrigerator” on that main 120V CB panel.

Good luck!

Is your fridge in a slide-out?  Mine was, and I found a loose molex connection where the fixed wiring goes to the flex wiring to the slideout.  It was under the false bottom of the cabinets under the dinette table.  Under the subwoofer, if I recall correctly.  So not a fuse, but rather just a bad connection.

1 hour ago, t_camper324 said:

The camera works only on the left side, the right side, and inside the coach but when it shifts to rear view to see our tow vehicle its blank.

 

Sorry!

No apology necessary.  Mine does not have an inside view & I wish it did.  Is your inside camera in the dash?  I’d like to see it, & add one, possibly using the A/V input, for whenever DW is out of her seat.

To respond to your original post, let me suggest you check the 6-pin cable, where it attaches to the monitor cable (as camera one or two, depending on your setup); or at the rear camera itself.  Those original cables have been prone to failure.  A new 60’ 6-pin cable runs $52 @ RV Cams.  Unless you find the rear camera is faulty, you may not need to upgrade.  They no longer make or sell the 8464M.  You may be able to order the 10” 1044M, but be aware it lacks the motorized camera controls.

good luck!

6 hours ago, t_camper324 said:

Is there a way to check the backup part of the camera?  2007 Monaco Sig - both sides and inside work fine but no back.

 

Charles/Linda

 

I don’t understand your post. What do you mean by “inside” and “back-up part”?

On my 06 Knight 40DFD I upgraded to the 8” Color monitor 8464 quad view, allowing connection of my Garmin GVN53 (remote) GPS as camera 2.  I use the Cameras 1 & 2 Split View with GPS on the right and rear camera view on the left.  BTW: you may not need a new camera.  My intermittent “blue screen of death” was traced to bad power and/or ground connections.  The original Weldex cables have also had issues with lost signals wherein the image would grey out— rather than turn blue—and flicker.  I may replace the 60’ cable if I can figure out the best path from rear camera to the dash.

On 7/16/2022 at 9:45 AM, Frank McElroy said:

Mine is the same.  Also, access through the removable side wall door, is needed to remove the refrigerator is to remove the hold down bracket attached to the rear refrigerator frame and the coach floor.

What are the dimensions of the access panels on the 08 Dynasty?

On 9/30/2023 at 1:02 PM, Marine Boy said:

I have a Surge Guard 40250 and the main/shore power contactor just went bad while I am traveling.  Has anyone replaced the Cutler-Hammer C65FNF360 contactor with an Eaton replacement?   Or should I bypass it for the rest of my trip and replace the 40250 completely?  I can make the rest of the trip without the Generator during a bypass.

I’m sure you’re aware that Cutler-Hammer is part of Eaton; so perhaps they—Eaton—can answer your question?

i will following in hopes a useful answer appears.😊

On 9/30/2023 at 1:02 PM, Marine Boy said:

I have a Surge Guard 40250 and the main/shore power contactor just went bad while I am traveling.  Has anyone replaced the Cutler-Hammer C65FNF360 contactor with an Eaton replacement?   Or should I bypass it for the rest of my trip and replace the 40250 completely?  I can make the rest of the trip without the Generator during a bypass.

Can you not just replace same contactors, rather than another brand?

3 hours ago, hex_nut said:

When my Southwire 40250 began to act up, I did extensive research to find a realistic replacement for the contactor.  I could find nothing that would fit and accomplish the objective.  Everyone else I could find that had gone through the process had eventually given up and replaced the entire unit.  Sadly, replacing the entire unit will result in losing communication to the Alladin unit.  I have asked in many forums about the possibility of gutting the 40250 and porting the communication components over to a newer version.  All of those with far more electrical engineering experience then I have responded that it "might" be possible, but was not at all realistically practical.  So, the bottom line is simple: Replacing the contactor in the 40250 is not realistic unless you have the superhuman fabrication and enginering skills to build your own surge protector ATS combination.  There is a company with a listing online that will evidently build you a replacement for the contactor for $2000.  But, I do not consider that realistic since a replacement with a newer version is about half that.  If anyone comes up with a solution to this issue, I would like to hear it.

Richard

Wonder if contactors from another Southwire ATS (not necessarily a combo surge protection ATS  like your 40250) might be an option.

I dont have the answer, but the OP was asking not about a replacement ATS, but rather if one could replace the OEM contactors with another brand.  Has anyone done that who can provide an answer?

Meantime, I’ve had some success giving my 40250 a good thump to get the contactors to work.

I found a rare Pioneer AV receiver Model VSX-S520.  The “S” is for slim (wide, but not tall).  Although physical media is old school, I paired it with a slim, wide Samsung 4K BluRay player that we haven’t used in years. Model # not shown; again that’s an option, not required.  Note I widened the cabinet opening.

I use ScanGauge D on my ‘06 Knight, but cannot find transmission temp gauge.  Someone @ ScanGauge suggested finding another diagnostic port where the trans temp may reside.  Anybody know where that may be?

I may have that one! Will check when I can find it.😜

Rick, thanks.  I’m told that the “charge only” setting is a misnomer, in that it will allow the inverter to provide any power the batteries can’t.  I’m not sure about that.  There is a device that serves as a timing relay which allows either the inverter/charger or the alternator to charge one bank and then the other.  The alt light/alarm only comes on if I am already running the inverter, and turn on the generator to power the AC, and then only after both have been on a while.  Enjoy Gillette.  See you in Indio in January.

On 7/8/2023 at 7:59 PM, waterskier_1 said:

According to my 2006 Diplomat Wiring Diagram, you do indeed have a DUVAC Alternator.  This type of alternator is used to sense the voltage somewhere other than the output of the alternator.  That "somewhere" may be on the battery side of an isolator where there is a voltage drop between the alternator input and the battery itself (typical of a Solid State Isolator with Diodes).  That somewhere may also be at the end of a longer run of cable, which could have a voltage drop due to the distance and current.  You do not have a Solid State Isolator, but instead have an IRD (Isolator Relay Delay).  

In any case, the Sense wire of the DUVAC MUST be connected, or the alternator will assume there are zero volts (an open) and attempt to run at max output, eventually overheating and possibly burning itself up.  

I wonder if the correct alternator was installed, or if it the alternator was installed correctly.  I say this because you should have 14.2 - 14.4 volts at the chassis battery when the alternator is running.  You state you only have 13.8 - 13.9.  The ALT-FAIL relay is a 6 volt relay (likely the only 6-volt relay in the coach) which gets its input from one of the three windings on the alternator.  If the alternator output drops, so does the voltage on the winding, causing the ALT-FAIL relay to drop out and the ALT-FAIL light to come on.  

One other thing that can cause the ALT-FAIL light to come on is to have another charging source connected to the chassis battery.  This is usually the battery charger when running the generator.  But your coach doesn't automatically charge the chassis battery from the inverter/charger.  Also, solar charging can cause this, if the solar is connected to the chassis battery.

You really need to know the voltage AT THE CHASSIS BATTERY when the ALT-FAIL light comes on to determine if it is the alternator, wiring of the alternator, or other circuitry causing the light to come on.

  -Rick N.

Thanks Rick, Glad to know that it’s the second source charging issue if I turn on the generator for roof AC while the inverter is on for the fridge & basement ice maker while on the road.  Does that mean I should turn off the inverter while the generator is on?

On 8/7/2023 at 2:21 PM, Daryl Ammons said:

Thetford macerating toilet quit and can't get a controller for it from Thetford.  I have been searching vendors and the internet for over a week.  Finally come to the conclusion that I am going to have to put in a new toilet but having trouble even finding a OEM replacement. 

Two questions for the group

1. Is there any kind of work around to bypass that controller that anyone knows of?

2. Has anyone replaced the Thetford macerating toilet (Silence Plus) with another brand?

Got a trip coming up and need a toilet or my DW is going to extremely difficult to live with.  LOL

What is the controller style and part number you need?

I replaced one of my two controllers from the original one-button style to a newer two-button style.  I was told to jumper the two sensor leads to yield a green light.  I have purchased a second two-button controller but have not yet installed it.  So I have one & maybe two) of the controllers you need.  Again—style and part numbers would help.  
 

I have seen new Tecma Silence Plus toilets online for $1200-1400, but replacing the controller(s) would be so much more cost-effective.:

On 8/9/2023 at 1:38 PM, VinceB said:

Has anyone used these? I saw their ad on YouTube as a video - don't see the video on their site but looks to be impressive.

https://www.peachloft.com/pages/waterproof-solder-wire-connectors-gg#overview

 

Yes, I have used them—better than crimps on our rolling earthquakes!

On 6/2/2023 at 8:34 AM, Steve Hepfer said:

I am having a similar problem even though slightly different. I am plugged into 50 amp shore power and both legs are reading 118 volts at the Progressive Surge protector. I too have the blinking light syndrome along with a constant clicking sound from the electrical panel. The Intellitec panel says that I have 30 amp even though I'm connected to 50. There is one 20 amp breaker I can turn off and the clicking goes away however the Intellitec display does also. I have replaced the breaker thinking that may solve the issue but it didn't. I am starting to think that the Intellitec board may be bad. I could use some help hear. TIA

Steve Hepfer

08 Diplomat 36PDQ

Had the same problem in my ‘06 Knight, except that I also had no 120VAC when on shore power!  Checking the clicking, I removed the dead front panel from the main breaker panel, removed the 4-pin molex connector from the board and found burnt connection.  Burnished the connectors, put it back on the board and viola! all lights working on EMS and full power in coach.

On 5/29/2023 at 9:52 AM, Steve P said:

Steve - thanks for posting this.  We also have a Knight 40DFT.   I had no idea there was a second hatch in the closet.  Sooo glad you brought this up!!  I need to pull up carpet too.   If you can take another minute to post, would you mind including a pic and the measurements of the hatch?   

Thanks - another Steve

Ours is a 2006 Knight.  The rear closet has stair-step ledges at the rear and the floor is factory carpeted.  Not sure there’s enough space for a second hatch.

OK. Understood. TY

On 5/14/2023 at 11:11 AM, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

We have upgraded our Rand GPS to a larger screen Garmin.

The 7710 works just fine but we wanted a larger screen with the Garmin.

$75 plus shipping. It has the manual, power adapter, and current maps loaded

Picture attached.

 

 

You said upgrading 7710.  Upgrading to what?