justdoingit@att.net

15 hours ago, windsorbill06 said:

You guys that did this project, and ran into a wall stud in middle of the vent, what is the consensus?   Cut it out and don't worry about it?  Or abandon the project and leave things alone?

Had the same issue with my Diplomat, left the stud and cut around it. Worked OK.

Lowe’s sells a film that mimics stain glass. Installed in between the inner and outer skylights, so nothing to put up or take down. Cast a beautiful light and cuts some of the heat as well.

Is there something in place for water to exit the piping? Blowing rain will enter the intake air. Something like a duckbill valve would work…..

The issue is that the side wall is 1/8” fiberglass with 1/8” Luan plywood bonded to the fiberglass. Not much to work with. In the past I’ve bonded some 3/16 aluminum to the fiberglass using 3M5200. The 5200 takes a few weeks to fully cure, but once cured it isn’t going to come off. Paint the aluminum if so desired and once cured used the appropriate sized self tapers to secure the hardware.

On 9/5/2023 at 9:44 AM, Tom Cherry said:

good…we have another electrical topic running.  i posted this last night….it details how and what to do to get an equivalent CAMCO new plug that will virtually be waterproof like the Original…

 Order the plug from Amazon.  Also order a tube of Dow Corning 4 Insulating compound.  Cut off the end.  Attach the new plug.  Go over the screws about 3 times.  Use a large handle screwdriver and a rough (red) shop towel.  Wrap two wraps of the ckoth over the handle.  Then “rare down” on it.  Give it all you got.  Put the plug in a padded vise or clamped.  Then use your non dominant (usually left) hand to push down on the top of the handle and your right hand (rag around the handle) and lay into it.  An average Male with good grip strength will be able to generate the 40 inch pounds required.  Do it again. Then put on the cover.  Use it for a few weeks….then retorque.  Then FILL the cavity with the Dow Corning.  That is as close to a molded or waterproof plug  as you can get.  

From my boating days with 50 amp service, we never filled the cavity with Dow Corning or anything else. The reasoning was that the wire warmed up and cooled down with varied use and the terminals would loosen up. We took the plug apart about once a year and tightened the connections. I do the same with my RV shore power cord, take it apart and tighten the terminals. I always find they can be tightened more. At this moment, I check both the ATS and the breaker panels. Yearly maintenance. If I purchase new cords, I cut the molded crimped connections and put on Camco plugs. I know the crimped connections loosen with use as well. Just my experience and thoughts.

Search for “Oscar Rivets” ie exploding rivets….

If memory serves,  when I had a broken spring I was told to measure the diameter of the spring and then count how many rings make up the spring. Go on EBAY and find one with the same diameter and number of rings.

The hard part is yet to come to actually get that big sprint hooked back up.

Full timing for 12 years now have had 3 different TPMS systems. All 3 gave me fits with monitoring the toad. Lots and lots of false”loss sensor” alarms. One time had a number of alarms on 3 tires on the toad. Actually had a rear tire come apart and ruined the rim before someone flagged me down. Upgraded the ‘repeaters’ installed it under the rear bumper, got new replacement sensors, good customer service from all 3, but just couldn’t trust them.

Decided to purchase the Pressure Pro Pulse system with 12 sensors. Ran the 35’ cable under the coach to attach it in front of the drive wheels. Looped and wire tied the extra cable. Mistake - PP said not to loop the extra cable as it makes the antenna system less effective. They stated to zig zag the extra cable length. Redid it. 2000 miles later, very happy with the system. NO FALSE ALARMS!  What really sold me on the system is the ability to see all 4 axles and 12 tires at the same time with both pressures and temperatures. The sensors seem to update about every 60 seconds.

I use an old IPhone 5plus with the PPP system, it bluetooths to the pulse system. Stays active all the time.

I did have an issue with the fourth axle (toad) that couldn’t adjust the pressures for the alarms. PP engineer got into my account and made some changes on a temp basis. They will incorporate that change in an app update.

Here at two shots of my IPhone 1- in the morning and the other in the afternoon.

I think the new 10 button see’s zone 4 board for the bathroom heat, but isn’t comparable with the 10 button thermostat.

The hard part is finding where Monaco put the board, there has been some discussions on this subject before. Need to find it and change it out to a new board.  

Can’t find the sale info on their site. Can you forward me that email?

Thanks, Jeff B

justdoingit @ Att.net

16 hours ago, Bob Wightman said:

Hello Group,

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight with a 300 HP Cummings & Allison transmission.  On my last trip I noticed transmission fluid on the ground when I parked at our site, figured something was loose since I just had the transmission serviced.  Checked pan & filter bolt tightness...found a few a little loose, tightened & cleaned and thought I was ok...until I got home and the pan was wet again.  Cleaned it off and did some checking, found one of the cooler lines was bubbling from the compression fitting on the hose and check lines/cracks in the hose so figured I'd just remove both hoses and replace them with new.  Problem is I cant get them to break loose, and almost no room to work back by the engine/radiator...anybody ever had this problem and know what to do?  I'm ready to give up and take it somewhere but don't know where to go, looking for suggestions for a Class A RV service center in or near West Palm Beach, FL.

Thanks in Advance!

There is a product by CRC called Freeze Off. You blast the connection for 20 seconds, wait 2-3 minutes and try to break connection again. This product was suggested by another site and I’ve used it extensively replacing all my rubber lines on the rig. NAPA order the product in for me. Really does work well. The idea is it cools the connection and as it warms back up it lets the penetrant to seep into the connection.

When I researched LVP, it surprised me that in the fine print a number of products stated that is was not to be installed in Motorhomes. Not all LVP is truly water proof (some water resistant). Finally settled on a product from Lumber Liquidators (warm teak). Prepped the floors and glued down 1/4” cork that was sourced by the roll from Home Depot. The LVP was laid as a floating floor. No issues and still happy after 3 years of full time use.

National Admiral CT Has the air circulation throughout the seat. Air suspension, back cycles, heat, adjustable seat length, adjustable bolsters in the seat, swivel, adjustable arm rest, air adjustable lumbar (3 chambers), front cushion tilt adjustment, continuous recline, 8.9” track travel, map pockets, magazine pocket. Purchased 2 years ago from my local truck stop chrome shop, it was about $1,650 with shipping ( they matched on line pricing) 4 weeks lead time, they custom make each one. Couldn’t be happier with the seat.