lotosrggp1

If you move to disc brakes you will also need to change the master cylinder 

I'm surprised no one mentioned that you should make sure your fire extinguishers are still charged.

One more addition would be to run ethernet cable to it, especially if you have a metal building. They block wifi signals. 

Did you buy a lottery ticket? 

Robert, I see what you mean. I think I would have made a plate with a hole a little larger than the shaft that could slide under the stop on 3 sides. ---------u------------ Make it long enough to clear the armature in a vice so the armature can be held by this device holding the shaft. Use a brass drift or lead hammer to tap the shaft down without damaging it. Without a vice you could use the same piece with a second without a center hole and a couple of bolts to make a puller. Tom

See page 12 of the manual: http://jatonkam35s.com/CUCVTechnicalmanuals/1M-128.pdf, just a tube and hammer.

Hopefully you had the armature tested,  replaced the bearings etc to have a reliable unit if needed.

Looks like it should go to salvage 

After looking at the corrosion article I wonder if the replacement roof was properly installed.  Dielectric materials need to be used between dissimilar metals,  like aluminum and steel, everywhere, to prevent galvanic corrosion. You might want to use an Non Contact Voltage Tester Pen to make sure there isn't live current there which would speed the action.

Sounds like the wrong alloy of aluminum was used for the current roof. 5052 is what used to be used in marine applications for its corrosion resistance. 

That's the way to do it. Weld the washer on then weld the nut thru the hole. The heat expansion will help break the bond.

After the bolt is out I'd carefully run a tap to clean out the threads, blow the holes out with air, and use antiseize on the threads when you do the install. Reduce the torque values by 25% for lubricated fasteners. 

torque_specifications.pdf

Looks like the fun is just beginning 

20 hours ago, Ivan K said:

If you can weld , I would put a washer and a nut on the remnants of the bolt. The heat might help some to get them unscrewed now that they are short and can't flex. Still painful...

Figured I'd add few words. I have removed a ton of broken bolts in my life. Now that the tension is removed from the thread, soaking it in penetrating oil (the above mentioned ATF mix in a squeeze bottle really works), there are special extractor pliers with hardened teeth pointed in one direction to get a grip. However, that is not guaranteed on a hardened bolt. I only use drill extractors if the broken bolt is below the surface and is not sticking out at all. Broken drill extractor is a disaster. There are also extractors that cut into the bolt from its outside. Welding a nut is the last and best option if all else fails. I wish I could attach pictures of the tools I mentioned but we are far from home. Good luck, you'll get it done one way or an other. And if you had enough thread to put two nuts on, lock them up, that would be a game changer. 

Welding works but be sure to protect your computer, alternator,  etc.

Watched a YouTube video /m.youtube.com/watch?v=AExrJ_Y4t64 last night on making 3D printed parts stronger/more durable. Worth a try. Hope this helps someone. 

Must be why the price of diesel is $1.50 a gallon more than gasoline here. Ouch

This looks like yours, not mine, but dimensions?

https://www.reflectwindow.com/products/weep-hole-cover-w-flap?variant=29518507606134&currency=USD&msclkid=61c959a718e31cc9ce9d3af405b78900&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=AI - Shopping - USA&utm_term=4585169653039179&utm_content=Ad group %231

I recently ordered the parts to do this from DK, was told the spacer was on backorder and the would be 2 to 8 weeks out. Told them I didn't want the order until the spacer came in. Came in about 10 days, have other projects ahead of them now.

I think I'll try Joy next time followed by a steamer.

I've heard of others finding their parts at NAPA if you bring the parts in. The problem is not all counter sales people are created equal, some know how to lookup odd part numbers and some cannot be bothered.

Has anyone used or compared RA from 

https://www.escapees.com/benefits/escapees-roadside-assistance/ ?

Several years ago I had a friend (now deceased) who had a Mercedes 2D diesel car he made into a mini pickup. He was a Mercedes mechanic so was qualified. One of his modifications was homemade propane injection. It was well done, cute (so much so it was stolen within weeks of completion), and he said it gave more power and raised his fuel economy. Not sure such a modification would work on a computerized engine as it would self adjust. You should do more research before doing this, could make your engine into a bomb if done incorrectly. There are several outfits selling kits, here is one: http://badgerlandperformance.com/products/propane-injection-kits-semi-trucks/

I'd be interested if anyone has any experience with their rigs.

I have a 80 gal Gardner Denver air compressor that I've bought used about 45 years ago. Still works good, rated at 17.5 com at 175 psi. Also two smaller portable compressors, one really noisy and one just worn out.

Allstays is only an apple app, but Allstays.com works similar and much of it is free although they also have a paid area. No one app is 100%, they all have class.

The only thing I wish I had done when I built my shop would have been to run pex tubing in the floor for radiant heat.

I did have a friend who wanted a pit, had the forms inspected, then dug his pit, lined it with cinder blocks and angle iron for a lip to set 2x6s across at the top. After the floor was poured the pit was covered with building materials when the pour inspection was done.

Since you had a headlight switch go bad consider adding relays per previous discussions. That takes the load off the switch.

Have you checked the separators at each faucet, they can plug with water heater sludge? The strainer at the water pump? The pressure regulator? Do you have a anti-siphon at the water supply?