MalcolmH

Mike, I truly hope you are very proud of your accomplishments and the technical knowledge you so openly share!

Your notes and pictures are second to none. Job well done!

You have found your home in Bill D's.

Thank you for your contribution.

Malcolm H

In my case the lack of hot water was a failed tempering valve. The valve was not seating and allowing cold water to constantly drain cold into the hot water water supply when ever a hot water tap was turned on. The tempering valve is a miniature mechanical spring/bimetal thermostat, similar to a car radiator control. Very difficult to get to for trouble shooting. Hope this helps with solving your problem. Malcolm

Thank you very much for the effort by all. What a great vision by an incredible team of volunteers to create this channel !!!

CaptPat sounds like you have the running light replacement installation well in hand. I replaced our front and rear running lights with LED's this past summer. As you noted; they are not well sealed by just the gasket.

I used a Black GE Silicone Sealant to seal all the edges of the running lights. Our front and rear end caps are a metallic black paint at the roof line, hence the Black Silicone Sealant  looks clean and nicely finished. GE makes their Silicone Sealants in a variety of colors, you should be able to find something in their range if your interested in this option. Malcolm

Hey folks I have and Allison 4000 and Cummins ISX/15Liire/525HP in "03 Sig.........my "normal" operating tranny temperature range is 210F to 230F / no issues - ever, that's why I changed to Transynd Synthetic, to ensure it I don't have issues and of course; verified all of this with my Allison authorized factory representatives.

Big Engine, Big Tranny, Big Coach (47,000Lbs)......lots of heat and I didn't want issues \ in mountains or flat-landing, I watch trans temps carefully while traveling to ensure I never do have issues!

Remember when asking the question about "normal" operating conditions: everything is relative, OK? Malcolm

I hope not to sound to simplistic or crass however you can stop in at any home outfitter and purchase a suitable "toilet carpet" - the toilet carpet is the steering column in reverse! Lots of choices and inexpensive to replace. Malcolm

We had all the same issues as others in the post. In order to solve the lack of road lighting at night issue, we focused on a fog light upgrade, as others here have mentioned. Initially I looked for an LED replacement fixture that would match the body opening - no success. Next I looked at an HID upgrade to the existing fixtures. I did find an HID kit that had the lighting capabilities we were looking for and I could sufficiently modify the housing to accept the HID lamp and associated heat sink tabs. The pictures tell the story.

 Note we did change the BMW Series 5 halo headlights solely because of polycarbonate fatigue and esthetics, road lighting was still extremely poor.

The road lighting at night is now excellent! Malcolm

On 2/28/2021 at 6:30 PM, Dennis H said:

Two things, Eddie. One Shark Bite fittings available at your local Home Depot will correct that ugly piping. All fittings are plug and play and very simple to install. Ask one of the aprons to demonstrate. The other thing and it's a BIGGIE.....Crawling under a coach without proper blocking, especially playing with your leveling jacks is a recipe for disaster. The coach will drop faster than you can crawl and be lower than you are thick, so make sure you use proper blocking before crawling under there poking at stuff.....Dennis

as a follow up to the Shark Bite fittings and how great they are for our coaches........here are pics of a project I did in 2018. No more leaky Manabloc, replaced with custom copper manifolds. could not have made the change without Shark Bite fittings. The crimping tool would not fit to crimp compression rings in the confined space. Malcolm

We have owned the same coach since 2010, lots of the same ISX starting experiences as noted in the responses. We've added a 3rd hi amp battery in the tray and yes it's a very tight fit! That helps however I learnt over time, the only way to 'help' the ISX cranking is to push and hold the battery boost for at least 30 seconds before starting, works very well every time.

In so far as the ignition wiring, we did have an similar issue as the OP. It was an ignition wire that no longer had continuity from the main run panel to the ignition switch. Rather than disassemble the harness, I ran a new wire, all was good again.

Hope these experiences help those with the same coach..... Malcolm