Mike B in TN

On 4/11/2023 at 10:47 PM, Keamyinc said:

I filled up with diesel yesterday in my 2002 Windsor and now the gauge is stuck on the far right side of full.

Any tips to get it back working?

Thanks Don

I've got mine off right now doing the trouble shooting from Centroid. Was able to scrape the over spray off the label and it is the original from 5/02. My coach is a 2002 Holiday Rambler. I can reach mine and troubleshoot/remove it pretty easy from the side. Mine is part # 01805074 which is a 0/90 ohm gauge. Appears to be the sending unit, will call tomorrow and order a new one. 

The troubleshooting pages at Centroid are really good and will narrow down the problem, especially the measurement between the inner and outer tubes.

Great job, will be helpful in searching for answers and tips. I made a video on changing the parking brake pressure switch out, if you'd like to include it.

Glad you found a fix, and a big thank you for coming back and letting us know how it turned out. 👍🏻

Checked with the seller about aluminim thickness and this is what he sent:

It works well up to .080 Aluminum (can go up to .100 but much more difficult)

All these can make custom switch covers, not bad prices either

You can also order switches from them with covers or without

https://rockerswitchpros.com/

https://newwiremarine.com/

https://www.otrattw.net/

Tool for removing switch covers

https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/tool/

I've looked for a chassis punch for a perfect hole for Carling rocker switches for a while, only ones I could find was super expensive. Looking today I found this today and it is a great solution. Reasonably priced and looks like it works good. This tool will make adding switches or replacing broken panels a lot easier.

I have nothing to do with this site or person or tool, just a new fan lol

https://rockerpunch.com/ 

https://www.freightwaves.com/news/why-the-northeast-is-quietly-running-out-of-diesel

One article I found on the subject

22 hours ago, myrontruex said:

It would be interesting to find out if they would accept an out of state license. That is, in Florida you do not need the endorsement. In Calif over 40 ft you need it but they cannot properly define a forty footer. Trust me, I spent months trying to nail them down on this and they came up dry. No bumpers on an RV so it cannot be bumper to bumper.  I do not want to derail this thread and talk about it more. After a lot of head scratching they managed to give me a written test based on two different parts and said ok, but to get a driving test was going to be over six weeks out. Never got the license. 

But a legally licensed person in Florida should be able to driver it. That should throw a knot in their knickers. 

Call a local RV dealership that sells Motorhomes. They should have drivers they can refer you to. 

 

Tennessee is the same. No special license or endorsement (air, weight, or length) and tags cost the same for my cars and the motorhome. No inspection in 95% of the state that I know of, I believe a couple counties in middle and maybe west TN does vehicle inspections but that's all.

To answer original poster question, call an RV dealership about delivery drivers in your area, or do a Google search. Would cost a little bit they could drive you to the testing center. 

There is driving schools, I remember Lazy Days in Florida has one, but I'd say there's one close to you if you do a Google search 

$5.19 at a Loves in Lenoir City TN

That's strange, I've had Progressive for a number of years on my Motorhome, everything else is State Farm. My policy went actually down $1 from last year till this year, $922 to $921 (it's due in Feb so I've gotten my renewal letter). I live in Tennessee and we aren't fulltime.

Anyone know the part number for the sending unit on the top?