piercelarry69
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Posts posted by piercelarry69
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ware is the compressor the low air alarm stayed on even after ignition switch is off
2001 Windsor alarm stayed on after switch is off have to pull fuse to stop sound
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12 hours ago, Tim503 said:
Did they check your 89 volt meter reading?
an it reads 119v
26 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:Sometimes our educational lessons are VERY expensive. You just don't want to have a LOT of those lessons!
I ran into a similar experience with a "new" Cummins service tech in Anchorage AK working on my coach. When he went to start the engine, NADA. I then suggested making sure the Chassis Battery Disconnect Rotary Switch was OK. They then told me to mind my own business. Well after hours of troubleshooting it ended up to be the very same switch I said to check. They attempted to charge me for the hours and I told them no way. They eventually compromised.
I can't afford it. this is the 3rd
27 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:Sometimes our educational lessons are VERY expensive. You just don't want to have a LOT of those lessons!
I ran into a similar experience with a "new" Cummins service tech in Anchorage AK working on my coach. When he went to start the engine, NADA. I then suggested making sure the Chassis Battery Disconnect Rotary Switch was OK. They then told me to mind my own business. Well after hours of troubleshooting it ended up to be the very same switch I said to check. They attempted to charge me for the hours and I told them no way. They eventually compromised.
wish i saw this afew days ago
12 hours ago, philcarrell said:Pretty sure I suggested this several days ago. Glad it’s fixed
yep u sure did except i thought. there was some kinda switch near inverter. did not expect it in the a rotory switch
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4So after spending 3 days at the Rv store they changed the inverter/charger an guess what nothing different. no change so i got loud. will a. an expert shows up tinker here volt meter there. He says to me why this here switch is bad causing my problem So change the on off switch for house battery. an whaaaamy all is well. except 3083.00bill
thanks all for responding
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activated power boost zip nodda nothin
checked breaker nodda nothin
semi pro with meter
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okay chcker all out still
when engine running —— no shore power— 120 v work — 12v works. how ever only 89 v on plug meter—=should be 120v-=— when I try turn gen on 1st get no response than I loose inverter than I loose 120 volt— push botton for inverter all comes on again
tun engine off all goes off
turn shore power on nothing gen no responce no 12v. no120v
turn engine on 12v retored no 120v
turn shore off with eng running —— 120 v resored 12v restored
still generator no response
RV repair guy says it is inverter/charger
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dont understand were is this switch?
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2001 windsor. no power whats so ever. no 12v no120 can't even start genny. help
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2 minutes ago, MSHappyCampers said:
Were you using the SteerSafe stabilizers?
yes
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On 3/16/2020 at 5:27 PM, MSHappyCampers said:
Right after getting our 2002 Windsor in 2012 I installed a set of SteerSafe stabilizers just to help in controlling the coach in case of a front tire blowout! Thank God I haven't found out if they work! 🙂
Joe
Have a 2001 Windsor with stabilizers an had a right front blow out an no problem took foot off gas did not use brake an came to a stop in median
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thanx for your service an welcome home chu lai. vet nam Marine air wing
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Well I'm done all plugs are back working. TADAAAAA
On 5/3/2020 at 10:38 AM, eddie4ne said:I am not sure which side of the bed you originally lost, but in our coach the circuit goes from the rear side of dresser to the rear TV to the rear side of bed then to the forward side of bed. When I was tracking down the problem when the bedside outlet was out I realized that it got power from the other side of bed. I took both outlets apart to check what might be the source of the problem. My guess was the wonky outlets! Why would they put something that requires wires to remain stationary without being secured rather in a vehicle which is subject to twists and jarring all of the time, is beyond me!
Keeping in touch sounds since our biggest headache with the coach is the electrical system. We love our coach and wouldn't trade it for newer. We just returned from a three month journey to CA from our home in PA. While on our trip, we realized the alternator was not charging the house batteries while we are in transit. Not a real big deal but then we had the brand new inverter (xantrex sw 3000) go into "rectifying mode", so the house batteries ,even when plugged into shore power was not going to float charge. We called Zantrex and they very patiently talked us through some troubleshooting. They instructed us to reboot the system through the remote panel. Thank goodness that resolved the issue of not going to full charge. We have not yet figured out why the alternator is not charging the house batteries, it keeps the chassis battery charged just fine.
SO RE BOOTING what is that all about??
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2 minutes ago, jacwjames said:
Yes, understand but I'd hate for something to happen and have not said anything.
Last year as we were getting ready to sell our old house after moving into the new house I was working on getting it ready to sell. For some reason one line of outlets was not working. I isolated the circuit and started trouble shooting. The first outlet in the string had a loose connection and had gotten very hot. It did not kick the breaker. I had never had this outlet out of the box since owning the house for +25 years.
So you can see where I'm coming from.
I agree with u hole heartedly
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12 minutes ago, jacwjames said:
Electricity is something that I don't let slide. A loose wire that may intermittently make a connection could create heat and heat leads to fire.
I wired my own house and although I tried to make sure all connections were done correctly I had a couple that didn't make good contact which I found when I was testing all circuits. In particular I had one that got hot enough to melt the tape and wire nut that failed ~6 months after moving in. Although I didn't have to I put an AFCI outlet as the first point in each circuit (it is now code that you install an AFCI in the service panel that is not protected by a GFCI so essentially every circuit is protected), the AFCI did it's job and kicked the power. When I traced the wires it was the ~4th junction box where I found the problem.
Good luck
Well thanks for that ..... got me thinking all I need is to cook myself in a fire..
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12 minutes ago, eddie4ne said:
I am not sure which side of the bed you originally lost, but in our coach the circuit goes from the rear side of dresser to the rear TV to the rear side of bed then to the forward side of bed. When I was tracking down the problem when the bedside outlet was out I realized that it got power from the other side of bed. I took both outlets apart to check what might be the source of the problem. My guess was the wonky outlets! Why would they put something that requires wires to remain stationary without being secured rather in a vehicle which is subject to twists and jarring all of the time, is beyond me!
well some day I'll check the plug. I'm 74 an I'm sore from crawling around. Altough it sites in the back of my head an bothers me..... things need to work properly
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4 hours ago, eddie4ne said:
Piercelarry69, glad you found the culprit! I have had the outlet on the frontside of the bed go out also. For some reason it came back on line. I took it apart and pushed the wires into the outlet farther- not sure that had a bearing. I have not replaced that outlet with the screw type outlet YET. Not looking forward to trying to enlarge the outlet hole up under the cabinet though I may try to figure a way to put the outlet on the wall instead,
I was inspired by your tenacity, I was able to fish another wire from the outlet in the cargo bay to the outlet in the bathroom via the ductwork cutouts for the furnace. It was surprisingly simple. I believe that your outlet that you had to change- if on the forward side of the bed, is the last on the circuit. The one I replaced is the last one from the other end.
Sharon
Well I may not have. It seems idid not check the other side of the bed. well it is out. Have Know idea were to begin with it Don't know what breaker handles it An since I am single no need to fix never use it . We should keep in touch seems u guys have a model a year newer than mine an things are always goin kapuie..
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Well Guys An Gals. I found the Problem. Wiring going from Bedside Plug to breaker box. Don't what caused it but no voltage. I re wired in a easier route to the box
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6 minutes ago, ready2retire59 said:
I'm late to this discussion, but if the breaker keeps tripping when you try to rest it, you're troubleshooting a short circuit NOT an open circuit (no voltage to any outlets). I suggest you follow the ideas of Tom Cherry above. If you are electrically inclined, you can try it yourself. If not, get the qualified electrician Tom suggested. I've had problems with the RV type outlets in my '03 Windsor but mine were open connections at the outlets leading to no voltage at outlets downstream. The trick is to break open the circuit upstream of the short and then the breaker will not trip. If you can determine the halfway point in the schematics and break the daisy chain of the circuit at that point, you can tell if the short is upstream or downstream from that point. If it's downstream, reconnect the circuit and move halfway downstream on the daisy chain according to the schematics and then break open the circuit again to determine where the short is. If its upstream , move halfway upstream on the daisy chain and break the circuit there. Keep going halfway in the direction needed until you find the short. Unless it's a chewed though wire somewhere between outlets, you'll probably find the bad inverter per Tom above or a disconnected and shorted wire in one of the outlets. Good luck
Tony Chiulli
'03 Windsor
thanks Tony I'll try that
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29 minutes ago, eddie4ne said:
Piercelarry69, I realized that the outlet where the air conditioner was should be where I start troubleshooting- the outlet on the side of the dresser, facing the washer. When I opened it I tested for power and realized I had power to that outlet but not to the TV- next in the daisy chain. Then I tested another wire between the two outlets and had power and the outlets on either side of the bed. Then the problem was figuring how too run the wire to connect the two. I was able to fish the wire behind the paneling in the washer cabinet.
As I said I took this opportunity to change the outlets- a detail tool work like a champ to facilitate the the installation of the low profile outlet box. After that project was complete, I proceeded to test the other outlets on the circuit. From the bathroom, the cellar is the next in tha line. I change the outlet in the bathroom to one that has screwtype connections and connected the cargo bay into it like the previous wiring. When I turned the breaker back on I immediately knew that the wire between the bathroom and the pavement would have to be replaced, I am still trying to figure that one out. Running new wires though the existing harnessing is impossible. I beleive the problem was caused from putting to much on the circuit. The frying pan and the AC was drawing too much juice.
wow! what a endeavor.
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19 hours ago, eddie4ne said:
The outlets you mentioned are all on the same circuit. It took awhile but I managed to figure that out from the schematic.
We have a 2002 Windsor. We were using 110 AC unit (don't ask) and running electric frying pan outside. We blew the circuit. I traced the effected outlets on the schematic and found the connection between the rear TV outlet and the outlet on the side of the dresser had been shorted out. I ran a new wire between the two outlets and replaced those ridiculous push wire outlets with regular household outlets- I had to enlarge the hole since the outlets did not have a box. I used a low profile work box. Everything came back online (bathroom, and all bedroom outlets) but the cargo bay- still trying to figure out how to run another wire safely, any ideas appreciated.
Sharon
i looked at mine an it it directly below the bath vanity were the plug for bath is how in the heck did u replace wires
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30 minutes ago, Dennis H said:
Tom did a great job of explaining how it works. Since you indicated you have the GFCI breaker, start there. If it won't reset then I would replace it and see if your issue goes away. Replacements are available at Home Depot. Make sure everything is OFF and coach unplugged BEFORE opening up your breaker panel. If the problem doesn't go away with the new breaker, then you will have to start check every receptacle. As Tom pointed out, these are mobile home type receptacles. If one of the wires 'pops' out of the V notch that can cause a short. Receptacle replacements are easy, just use a regular receptacle from any hardware store. You will have to install a box also. I've replaced several in my coach as I don't care for the snap in place ones. It will take a little more work to replace them but it's worth in IMO. Another plus is getting a receptacle with a USB port which is beneficial in some cases..Be sure to let us know what you find.....Dennis
I beleave they are sq D. im off to home depot
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2 hours ago, Mel S - '96 Safari said:
ok let me file u in !) I plugged in a compressor to a out let in basement. it went on for only a second So I went breaker. nothing was or is popped. at that time I noticed the radio was off. started check more found bath plugs not working. so all plugs in rear and basement are not working. ok first thing check circuit breaker. it is not poped. I go to first plug no volts. I have a Trace inverter. only one fuse button it is set I have lived in this coach 3years now an been in out over an under an no gfi except. the breaker it self. I have reset this breaker several times an no juice. I have pushed yellow button an reset to no avale
ok let me file u in !) I plugged in a compressor to a out let in basement. it went on for only a second So I went breaker. nothing was or is popped. at that time I noticed the radio was off. started check more found bath plugs not working. so all plugs in rear and basement are not working. ok first thing check circuit breaker. it is not poped. I go to first plug no volts. I have a Trace inverter. only one fuse button it is set I have lived in this coach 3years now an been in out over an under an no gfi except. the breaker it self. I have reset this breaker several times an no juice. I have pushed yellow button an reset to no avale
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3 minutes ago, Dennis H said:
Look in the kitchen and bathrooms. Not in the obvious places though. I think Monaco techs sometimes play games with us. I've seen receptacles in the strangest places. Look UNDERNEATH the medicine cabinet and the one over the toilet. Look also under the cabinets in the kitchen as well as that one that's hidden next to the sofa.....think of it as a treasure hunt. Finally, look in your breaker box for a breaker that's different than the others. Some will have a white button on them and some will simply have a white wire attached. Let us know if your box has any of those..See below.....Dennis
yes I have the tw0 on right one for kit an 1 for bath
Just now, piercelarry69 said:yes I have the one on right 2ea. one for kit an 1 for bath
I have looked every were under over on top through behind panels If i could get my head in I have seen it. from one end of this coach to the other
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the first plug in the series is out matter of fact all plugs are out might ad when I turn gen on an cut shore power. still no power
29 minutes ago, jacwjames said:My coach does not have (or at least I hadn't found any) outlet type GFCI plugs. All my GFCI's are built into the breakers themselves.
I would check both legs of the power coming in to confirm that the transfer switch and main service panel are working. I would then suggest testing voltage at each circuit breaker to make sure they are passing power. If you eliminate all of this then it indicates it is a problem with an individual circuit, which you should be able to identify. You will have to check power from the panel to the first outlet and then work you way down the chain. It could be a loose wire (neutral or hot) on a plug and/or wire nut.
I built and wired my own house and even though I took pains to make sure everything was done correctly I still found a couple individual outlets or circuits with problems. In most cases it was a wire nut issue.
the first plug in the series is out matter of fact all plugs are out might ad when I turn gen on an cut shore power. still no power
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5 minutes ago, Grampy OG said:
This may be over simplified but my GCCI circuits are built into the circuit breakers themselves located in the main panel. The breakers have little yellow buttons that on occasion have tripped. The breaker itself doesn't trip but the yellow button pops out. Just a thought.
Ken Wilcox - 2003 The Executive
pushed yellow button circuit breakers poped nothing
12 hours ago, Dennis H said:BINGO! Your rig HAS a GFCI somewhere. I have three. One in the bathroom, one in the basement compartment and the third in the engine compartment for the block heater. You may have one behind your fridge. Pull the outside cover and look in there with a flashlight. Also, post the brand and model of your inverter. Often it's hard to find the circuit breakers on the inverter as they are simply buttons that need to be pushed in. See pic below.....Since you don't know where your GFCI is, my money is on it being tripped.....Dennis
nope checked every where. I have same as your pic circuit breaker is good. looked everywhere engne compartment. basement
no power to ignition switch
in Electrical Systems
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no power to ignition switch. checked for fuses seem fine turn switch nothing. 2001 m Monaco windsor