rmelling0

Have a great trip and enjoy your well earned family vacation time.  

If you have power reaching the pump motor then it is passing thru the latching controller as it is supposed to.  If the pump motor is not running it is probably because the pump controller (pressure switch) is not passing power to the motor.  That could be because the water pressure from the pump to the faucets is still higher than the minimum setting and the pump is not needed to raise the pressure above the minimum.  Try opening a faucet to drop the pressure and see if the motor starts.  If not then maybe the contacts in the pressure switch have become stuck or corroded or burnt.  Try tapping with something to see if they start working.  Start with light taps, then stronger if needed.  No hard whacks.  Using highly technical terms here.  Grin.  If still nothing then check for a bad motor ground.  I think it grounds back through the latching relay ground.  It's also possible the internal pump diaphragm has failed and jammed.  Might be a replacement part.  You may try disconnecting the pump discharge tubing and see if you can get water to flow. 

Good luck solving.

Rick M

Oops.  Sorry but I think I have made it more confusing.  There are two controllers.  One built in to the pump.  On it you might be able to adjust set pressures.  The second controller is the latching relay sending power to the pump controller.  The latching relay allows the pump to run.  The pump controller actually starts and stops the motor based on pressure.

Rick M

1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

Not familiar with you coach but if you have more than one water pump switch, you likely have a latching controller near the pump (little black box). That controller might be fused in your house 12v fuse box and there could be an other inline fuse between the controller and pump. The controllers connections are easy to test and hotwire the pump to see which way the problem is. Until someone with the same coach gives you the correct answer...

Just to clarify a bit.  The pump is likely started and stopped by it's own pressure controller.  Not sure of your pressure settings but for grins let's say it stops at 50 and starts at thirty.  However nothing starts if it doesnt have 12 volt power feeding the motor.  That's where the above mentioned controller enters the picture.  The controller is essentially a special relay.  Coach 12v power is fed to the relay which then is fed to the pump motor if the relay has been activated.  The relay is activated by remote switches which complete a relay circuit.  The main controller then passes power to the pump motor, if it needs it.  Sorry if this is not clear enough.

Maybe it's easier to just say the pump won't start if the water system already has pressure. 

I've had to replace pumps before, and I've had to replace the controller.  My original controller wasn't rated for the power needed by the pump.

Rick M

2000 Monaco Exec

6 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Dick,

No rant, just plain common sense!

Totally agree about the horror stories when driving off the Interstates. I will take an Interstate any day versus some old back country road that has been neglected with generally no place to bail if in trouble. Plus you don't have to deal with oncoming driver's not knowing how well they drive or even if they see you. It's not like out buses can't be seen from a very long distance.

Richard

I like the back roads but I take a motorcycle to explore them.  Useful for day rides while motorhome is parked.  I've always hauled a Shadow but not lately.  I have triked my wing so now I'll be able to trailer it.

Rick M

Not sure where I read it but I've tried to follow the 350 rule.  Limit daily distance to 350 miles and stop by 3:50 pm.  We've pushed past both those limits at times to reach a destination.  A later stop doesnt leave much time set up in a campground, especially after dark.   We don't often get up and leave early so many days we don't get to 350 miles.  Not much need to get in too much of a hurry anymore.

Rick M 

2000 Exec.  Been parked at home a while.

2 hours ago, Joe Lee said:

Wow!  All great information. I will weight it, consult the manufacturer’s chart(thanks for the chart, Dr4Film!) and look into new comfort control values. 
 

This is a great community of people!  Thanks for the support!

Just a reminder here.  You need to get the chart for Toyo tires.  Micheline tire inflation tables show lower pressures than Toyo.

Rick M

2000 Exec

2 hours ago, Joe Lee said:

Wow!  All great information. I will weight it, consult the manufacturer’s chart(thanks for the chart, Dr4Film!) and look into new comfort control values. 
 

This is a great community of people!  Thanks for the support!

Here is the Toyo table.

rv_inflation_tables.pdf

Joe,

Don't worry about your air bags.  If they are not broken then they are doing their job of supporting the weight of the coach.  The coach ride height system will adjust bag pressures using rear bags to adjust left and right level and front bags to adjust front to rear level.

Don't worry about your shocks either.  Your said they are new.  They dampen the bouncing of the suspension system as the tires hit bumps and holes.

What you can do is adjust tire pressures so they are adequately supporting weight while flexing enough to absorb bumps.  But first you need to weigh the coach so you know the weight at each corner so you know what weight each tire has to support.  Then your need to refer to tire manufacturer's tables to determine required pressures.  You said you have Toyo tires so you need to get the Toyo inflation pressure tables.  Info is available on their website.  Too high pressures will give you the jarring ride you are discussing.  Keep in mind these are big heavy coaches and you should expect to have some jarring.  Doubtful you'll ever get the floating smooth ride.  Best to shoot for stable controllable ride.

Rick M

2000 Executive 42ft

On 10/1/2021 at 1:19 PM, Dr4Film said:

$8 at Northwest RV Supply.

http://www.nwrvsupply.com/176/RTL30A18V.html

Thanks.  Just ordered one.  Mine works but light doesnt anymore.  Didn't want to mess with figuring out if bulb could be replaced.  Just keeping it simple.

Rick M

2000 Exec

18 hours ago, Mark B said:

They don’t make a bean bag mount for the RV890 yet. I’ve been looking. We used a sticky pad under the screw down adapter for now because the wife wants to see the screen too. It holds ok but not a long term solution. The RAM mounts are 17mm for the 7 series, the RV890 uses a 25mm (1”)ball. I’m open to suggestions too.

Normal Ram mounts are 1" ball (25 mm) so any Ram mount pieces will work.  For my RV770 I had to get an adapter with 17mm ball on one end and 25mm on the other.  Not needed if the 890 already uses 25mm.  I mounted a 25mm ball to the bottom side of my overhead tv cabinet to mount the 770.  Or maybe it's a 760.

Rick M.    2000 Exec.

Thoughts?  If it ain't broke dont fix it.  Each leg is good for 50 amps.  You are under that.  It's working as designed.  No need to worry.  Breakers will do their job when needed.  The engineers have already split out the loads for you.

Rick M

Y2K Exec

On 4/1/2021 at 8:30 PM, Dr4Film said:

Dave,

I believe a member has one but he doesn't post much.

His name is Rick Melling. I think I remember him carrying it inside his Chevy SUV HHR.

Yes, we have a Cricket and we take in in our HHR.  We use it a lot around the house too.  We have insurance on it since some parks require it, though we've never been asked to prove it.  Then again, we haven't taken it a lot.  We haven't been anywhere in a while.  When we go out again we might be taking the trike on a trailer.

Rick M

00 Executive 

2 hours ago, Kittymp said:

We are missing the Transmission Dipstick for our 2006 Holiday Rambler 42 DSQ Imperial! Any ideas of  how to find out exactly what I’m looking for and where to find it? Thank you!

The transmission manual might tell you how to check level electronically from the gear selection control panel by the driver.

Rick M

2000 Exec

14 hours ago, David White said:

To me the steering stabilizer and Roadmaster Wandering  discussion is an apple and orange comparisons.  I have the TruCenter and it did little for wandering, but I think it would help absorb kickback in  a blowout!

I think discussing the use on other brands might be misleading, since there are some special problems only on the Roadmaster chassis, and other things are needed.

Wandering is best corrected with the Watts link, as Van pointed out, and get the steering box adjusted to remove play, if adjustable on yours (if TRW).

I have done the stabilizer and Watts, plus gear adjustment, and can tell you that my handling  was improved greatly by the latter, which is marketed by MonacoWatts.

I have a 2000 Executive with tag axle.  I had always thought the tag axle was supposed to help driving stability but I was never really happy with mine.  I was constantly having to adjust steering to keep it pointed straight.  Wore me out.  I decided to install a Watts link.   I had a local truck shop install it for me because the front hydraulic jack mount had to be welded.  Most don't require welding but mine did.  I noticed significant improvement but it still wandered too much.  Then, a couple of years ago at the Monacoers Gathering, Scotty inspected my TRW and found it needed significant adjustment.  He adjusted it and the drive home home was the best it has ever been.   So, in my opinion, the combination of the watts link and proper steering gear adjustment is essential, at least on my coach.  Now a happy camper.  Or will be when we get to camp again.

Rick Melling 

Scotty?  Is it leaking externally, onto the ground?  If not then it could be the the solenoid valve is leaking back to the resevoir.  Or maybe the bypass valve is leaking.  Try opening the bypass valve and let fluid flush out the needle valve before tightening the valve back.

Rick M

00 Exec