Byron J

If it's possible to pop the heater vent faux drawer front off that's underneath the drawer, you might be able to get your hand underneath and behind the drawer and somehow get it to release.

Thanks for the tip!  I'll put that on my "to do" list.

3 hours ago, tmw188 said:

 Perfect Byron perfect. Now I won’t install the two fittings I just bought I’ll get the water hose fitting, because I think I’m gonna order those valves I have all the symptoms that it mentioned in the ad for the valve. Are these two valves for that price I can’t quite make that clear.

 

Yes Todd.  One hot and one cold valve for that price.

2 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

Byron thanks for that link! Reasonable price and I’m experiencing all the symptoms it mentions in the link. Where you able to install them in place by just pulling the matching fwd some? 

Todd, I didn't even have to pull the washer forward.  Just took off the thin plywood opening in closet, put down a moving blanket and with a portable light did the work.  I also put a thick towel and tray below when removing the hoses to catch any residual water.

4 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Try a 1/2” straight thread to GH adapter. The fitting I show fits that valve perfectly. If you take your old one you can thread it on the thread sample board if they have one posted in the isle. I bought these at Menards but they were in the Discontinued end cap. Something seemingly so easy turns into a big PITA! 

Nice glad that work out for you! So you put Samsung valves on which machine model? I think one of my valves have leaked thru over night one time too. What is the PN on the Samsung valves you used? 

My Splendide is a model WD802M/2000.  I got these valves per Splendide/Westland Sales:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WTKH3FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  

My conclusion to why the valves get stuck most often is because of hard water deposits.  I have only started to use a On-The-Go water softener this past year.  Should have bought it years ago.

Just two weeks ago I ended up needing to replace the Splendide hose ends because my washer started filling up with water even though it wasn't turned on.  Problem was that I had a stuck valve.  As you discovered, the threads are not normal garden hose variety.  The Samsung valves I purchased do have the typical 3/4 washer threads, therefore, I needed new hose fittings.  I purchased these:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KBGZWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  Cut off the old ones and pushed the pex into the new fittings.  

Tested the campground cable with both a wire and a dvd player.  Worked well.  Thanks again for everyone's help!

Thanks everyone!  I'll give these ideas a try today and then report back with the results.

Chuck, I upgraded to the Sensar Pro.  It appealed to me because it seemed to simplify things.  I threw the VCR player in the trash.  My rig does not have satellite so really all I need is a simple device to switch from OTA to Campground TV.  wa8xym on irv2 is a proponent of the Sensar Pro https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NFTOLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but if I'm missing something re: why the BOMB is better, I still have it).  In one of a few posts, he stated:

The Sensar Pro is all of the following:
A scanner, finding the strongest TV signal in your area
A signal meter.. You can let it choose the signal to mesure or you can
A "Lister" which lists all the carriers found (See note)
A SWITCH choosing Cable or OTA
A variable gain Amplifier/Attuentator IT can both cut down on signals too strong and add additional amplifiction to weak signals.
A power supply for the mast heat amplifier
A splitter

it also has the ability to give you an AUDIO indication of signal strength.

I think that covers it all.. NOTE that it will NOT work with many home TV antennas unless you know how to block the DC as the antenna can appear as a SHORT at DC... Many do. THough I'm nto sure all do.. (I build my own antennas for some frequencies thus am familiar with antenna design)

But for In-home use, since you do not need to scan and re-scan for channels, a simple "This channel chart uses this broadcast channel" chart and the TV's signal strength meter is all you need.

Use the Sensar Pro in the RV with a Sensar IV on the roof, Designed to play nice together.

Thanks Brad.  I'll give that a try, but when researching testing connectivity I kept reading that if there was a splitter somewhere in the line, the meter wouldn't work.  Perhaps the way you suggested will work in spite of a splitter.  

Recently I upgraded the old CRT televisions to flat screen TVs.  I also removed the BOMB(box of many buttons).  I purchased a continuity tester which worked great for testing the coax from the front TV to the bedroom TV.  I suspect that the coax going to the camp ground hookup has a splitter in the line and therefore I cannot use the continuity tester.

Since I'm not planning on being at an RV park soon, is there a fairly simple way to input a signal into the camp ground coax connector located in the wet bay to test the coax up to the televisions?

4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I can't believe that a 2002 Windsor and a 2003 Exec would have had IOTA Transfer Switches installed. My 2002 Windsor and JimJ's 2002 Windsor plus anther member who has sold his 2002 Windsor all had the ESCO Lyght Transfer Switch.

Just shows to go you that Monaco didn't care where they installed what and when.

Richard, mine had an IOTA from factory.  Switched it out about a year ago.  Couldn't see anything wrong with the IOTA but switched it out to the ESCO Lyght TS along with adding a Progressive Industries HW50C.

A remote possibility is that it's not actually a drawer, just a drawer front(false front) because there is some ducting, wiring, etc behind that space.  I have at least one of them in the bedroom of my 02 Windsor.

I have done business with and highly recommend https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/   If you can remove your seatbelt and send it in, they can restore it to perfection.

This place has been recommended often over the years.  They show Monaco down on the left hand side of their web page.   http://www.custominstrumentpanels.com/

I had not heard of this type of fire extinguisher until today.  Seems quite popular with the classic car crowd, but since I still have a Norcold, might be handy to have in the bedroom.  I have always had the standard fire extinguisher behind the passenger seat.

Nice writeup!  Thanks.  I'll give those products a try.  

That looks very nice.  Probably a huge improvement over the curtains.

Bob, I can appreciate how you feel about trees when it comes to RVing.  My brother has a philsophy that "trees belong in the forest."  I certainly put a lot of effort into trying not to park under trees due to the reason you state.  But the worst for me is when I can't avoid tree branches scratching the side of my RV.  Some people call these scratches Texas pin stripes.  Whatever, I am the type who likes to keep my rig looking as new as possible (I know, not always a good thing).

Excellent upgrade from the Yahoo site.  Thank you!!