tomgagne55

I had my radiator recore done last year while getting engine work done and replaced the cac with one from cgi.  Along with them I replaced the coolant pump and thermostat as a preventative measure.   Cac was around 1k at the time.   2002 diplomat 

I would like to order 20.  10 for each side.  I have 1 remaining on the passenger side and I’m anxious to see how much quieter the ride is going to be.   Let me know how to order, and apologies if I missed those details in the thread

Related question not worthy of new post.  Are there typically 2 transmission temp sensors on Monaco’s?  One for the ECM and one for the gauge.  I know this is true for the oil pressure readings.  I have a 2002 diplomat 330 ISC

Great find! best of luck.  

3 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said:

Tom, I went to the GE website as I am also interested in switching my Norcold 1200 to 12v and wanted to see what other sizes they make. I could not find this model number but similar ones were all discontinued models. Where did you fine it?

It’s on the GE website and I took the model number and ordered it from a local ge appliance dealer.  GE dc fridge. I got this one because it fits perfectly into the cabinet my N821 came out of and it gives an additional 3 cu ft of space.   I’m not sure if there are larger sizes.  

1 hour ago, staffcurtis said:

I could use that norcold control board and front panel thanks!

 

I sent you a PM, I’ll need a ship to address

I recently retired and I’m spending time to upgrade my 2002 Diplomat prior to heading to FLA for the winter.    I’ve upgraded the fridge from Norcold N821 to a GE GBV10 which is a dc / compressor fridge.   So far so good, the bride will have hard ice cream now.   

I have some left over parts I salvaged which may be of value to someone, control board and front panel control boards from the fridge.     If anyone needs either of these let me know, pay the shipping and they are yours.

Additionally, I have removed the original sony surround sound and speakers (2001), it was still functioning, however I upgraded to a smart tv and no longer have a need for the surround sound.  Same goes for a CD cassette for a Kenwood dash radio.    Same approach If anyone needs either of these let me know, pay the shipping and they are yours.  Again these are vintage 2001, original equipment I believe, as I have owned the coach since 2007.

23 hours ago, CLIFF918 said:

I am fairly new to this but have a question.

I have a 2002 Monaco Diplomat, the air dump switch only seems to work with the ignition in the on position.

That being said when I operate the switch the air purges very slowly. In other words you would have to hold down the switch for 10 min to completely dump the system.

Is this normal? And should I even worry about it. 

This is a new to me Monaco 

Same coach, same function (slow) although mine will dump with the key to the ACC position which is one step counter clockwise fro off.  That way I can dump air without the low air beeping.    I pump the brakes down to 40 then I hold the dump air until the bags deflate.   The coach creeks as it settles on the frame.

24 minutes ago, W7BE_Bob said:

Do you have the Centroid fuel gauge and considered adjusting it. I'm skeptical that the pickup is at 1/2 tank. Remove the gen hose, insert a small wire with a short  90 degree bend to probe the pickup end and determine just how deep it is. 

Both of my Centroid have been very accurate and repeatable. Monaco's wide shallow cross tank and Centroid on one side however causes the fuel level to change and hence the gauge changes like on a crowned road. The gauge is very highly damped and hence doesn't immediately change. 

I would NOT extend the pickup to 1/4  tank which would be at or close to the engine pickup and that exposes you to air pickup for the engine. There are baffles in the tank but with the cross tank design air intake can happen. If that heppens to a diesel you can go from full throttle to dead with no warning.

Plus if your gen pickup is welded in place it will be a big job to remove the tank.

My gen pickup is at 3/8 and engine at 1/4 maybe a little below. My 130 gal tank is about 100 gal with a level fill. When tilted I can add 15-20 gallons.

To the person who suggested moving the engine pickup lower - DON'T for the reasons in my prior post - ie you will be exposed to air pickup. You can probe the engine pickup per above the post and then purge the engine of air before driving. 

Given the tank location Monaco's fuel pickups are set for very good reasons. Of course they could have installed the wrong pickup.

Yes I do have a centroid gauge.  I typically fill the tank to the B line which shows 95 gallons and the generator cuts out just above 1/2 and generally will take around 40 gallons, so there is still 55 gallons left in the tank.  Again filled back to the B level on the diagram.  The generator is cutting off close to the 1/2 marker.   I purchased a kit to extend the pickup tube for the generator.  I just wasn’t sure how long to extend it, as I didn’t want to hit the bottom of the tank.  I could recalibrate the gauge but I’ve seen some discrepancies with the readings at times.  Mostly I just refill based on mileage or when the generator quits.  I typically run only in the summer and need the generator running for AC.  It’s one of those things I want to do, I just haven’t got around to doing it.  

I don’t understand how lowering the generator pickup will cause air in the engine pickup.  That is of course if the fuel is above the pickup in the tank.  I’m looking to extend my driving range per tank based on the generator from currently refilling at around 320 miles and moving closer to 500 mile fill ups.  The additional 4 inches will give me another 26 gallons of usable fuel for the generator and leave 25+ gallons remaining in the tank.   I stop more often, but I don’t want to refill at every stop either.  Refilling every other day would be nice.  Thanks for the response. 

Great analysis and solution.  Unfortunately I only have the small access door on my Diplomat so the fuel fill modification can’t be done.  However, I do plan on extending my generator fuel pick up to avoid the shutdown at 1/2 a tank (for me and my current gauge indication). If I extend the pickup 4 inches it should give me an additional 25 gallons (1/4 tank) of access for the generator.   The 1/4 tank will be more than enough to extend the generator usable range for my driving habits.  I did run my fuel down once to force the low fuel light to illuminate and will not do that again after reading all the stories regarding the accuracy of the fuel gauge.    Thanks ok-rver !

Can someone point me to the thread regarding adding an external fuel filter on a generator?   I searched and could not find it.

Thanks there is no way I can pull this one off, without a way to maneuver the assembly.   This looks more like what I have.

I removed all the trim pieces and miscellaneous items in the way.  I don’t see a way to remove only the radiator.   Both the radiator and cac are mounted within a U channel bracket and the U bracket assembly is resting on the trailer hitch and the sides are one piece. The tanks of both cac and radiator are within the U channel.  It appears the entire assembly needs to be dropped then twisted/angled to remove as the assembly is wider than the back access.    Thanks for all the help.  Great forum!

This is how my setup is.   Are the bolts on the sides actually a bracket to hold the radiator in place?   So remove all the bolts, the input and output lines/hoses coolant/transmission lines, lower body panel and the radiator will slide out ?

19 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Funny thing about freeze plugs, if ones bad…. The others are right behind it. My only experiance was from Chevy an fords an many years of working on cars for a living.

This plug is in a spot where crud builds up and just sits so hopefully this is the only one.   I’ve looked at a few others and it appears to be surface rust. 

2 hours ago, Ivylog said:

I’ll “almost” guarantee “Dike Stop Leak” will fix it…BEST stop leak I’ve ever used. Had similar issue on a Cat 3406… lots of things in the way. That was 20 years ago and it still doesn’t leak. Recently my brother had a leak on a one year old turbo with the stupid hot water controlled VGT…stopped it too.

https://www.amazon.com/Dike-Radiator-Stop-Leak-Pint/dp/B07PWHJQZL/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=BWYLIVLFL3N5&keywords=dike+stop+leak&qid=1638021792&qsid=146-4576598-2844959&sprefix=dike+%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-5&sres=B002HIB3GI%2CB00TO60CMW%2CB07PWHJQZL%2CB001QT9KO6%2CB0869GRFC7%2CB000OAEN7C%2CB00754T6TK%2CB076ZP45Z5%2CB000BRQ0TW%2CB002PX91OG%2CB0086H95X2%2CB000931OEO%2CB00D46NSTM%2CB00QYZIVA6

I am reluctant to do this because it doesn’t seem to be a complete fix. I’m not on the road yet but wouldn’t feel confident.  Additionally if the freeze plug is rotted it’s only a matter of time before the hole gets bigger. Thanks for the suggestion! 

Thanks for the response, the water pump was replaced 2 months ago.  At the time the leak appeared to be fixed however it wasn’t.  I returned from a trip and waited for the mechanic to reinspect, and I also found this link describing similar circumstances. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/isc-coolant-leak-fyi-266160.html  In looking closer the freeze plug appears to be the issue.  The mechanic has refused the additional work because of the amount of time he is estimating (40hrs) it’ll take him.  I found another mechanic who is willing to “look” at it and as a fall back I’m trying to get enough information so if needed I’ll do it myself.    The fix for the issue I found on irv2 involves milling the timing gear cover, which the 1st mechanic didn’t want to do.  According to the mechanic  In order to replace the freeze plug ($6 part) remove the timing gear cover, the cac, radiator , the cam shaft and valve cover removed etc….   So in my continuous searching, I found that removing only the cac will give enough access.  My plan is to go the milling route as the material being removed is directly in front of the hole and is not serving any function.    I need to remove at most 1/4 inch and the timing cover bracket is over an inch thick, so any milling will not break any seal of the timing gear cover.  Sorry for the long explanation, if the CAC can be removed by itself, it’ll save some time.   

11 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

When i replaced my leaking radiator i also replaced my Water pump, t-stat, an hoses i left my cac in place. The radiator takes Two men to wrestel it out then back in. I will tell ya if your going thru all that work, ya might concider replacing the radiator at the same time. Im with Walter in that the original WP has a weep hole that when its seal goes bad it starts externally leaking coolant. The new wp has been updated many times an now they no longer have that. Let me know if you need more info.

 

 

Thanks for the pictures it would appear that removing the radiator is the cleaner way to go. 

I Need to replace a leaking freeze plug, covered by the water pump and timing gear cover.

I have a 2002 (2001 built) diplomat.  ISC 8.3, It has a stacked radiator and cac.  In order to get direct access to the freeze plug I need to remove the engine water pump as well as the cac.   Since they are stacked, can only the cac be removed ?  Is it a one man job ?  How much does the cac weigh and does anyone have any pictures?   Looking at it there are a few bolts and I’ve read in another forum that the hose connections can be removed from the rear?    

I have bits and pieces of what it’ll take, but does anyone have any additional info, or a good source?   Removing only the cac will significantly decrease the level of effort on this activity.

thanks 

I found this overall explanation of EGT, although I’m not qualified to speak to its accuracy I would tend to believe what is written.   https://www.dieselhub.com/performance/egt.html

On 3/2/2021 at 7:47 AM, throgmartin said:

I went with this same fridge but in stainless. Been going strong for 6 years. Never have had an issue.

 

Chris, I am planning on installing the same fridge.   Was there a need to increase battery capacity?   I currently have 4 6v, how long will they run this fridge?   Any issues with keeping the door shut while traveling?  Any need to add any additional cooling in the rear?     
thanks

I’ll have to try using the car only one out. I remember being asked the class of the vehicle when I got it.  The class was based on number of axles, tires and weight.  Although that was a few years back.   Thanks!

I have 2 Ezpass for use with my coach, 1 when I am towing and 1 when I am not.