Charlie 02 Windsor

4 minutes ago, Jim Bob said:

Thanks Charlie.  It seems I've heard mostly good stuff regarding the Windsor.  I've been really surprised at how few people have zero service records for them...  which I put a high value on.  Diesel engines can run for a very long time if maintained, but such a huge expense if you need to replace.  I'm perfectly ok with cosmetic and other equipment repairs... that is just to be expected, but swapping out the engine and/or transmission is something I'm going to try to avoid.  LOL.

You got that right ...they take a lot of oil and trans fluid .. but when you think about the cost of replacement, the fluids and filters are the cheap part of it !!
If and when you get down to pushing the button to buy ...try to spend at least part of a day in it with everything running to make sure it all works before driving off !!

18 hours ago, Jim Bob said:

Ah...  good old New Market.  Site of the great train wreck.  I've currently have 4 vehicles plus the RV.  Of course I drive the oldest one of all of them... a 97 Ford PU.  Its not much to look at, but it starts and runs. 

I'm currently looking at a couple Windsors... have you had good luck with yours?  Any issues I should look at?  I really would not even think of moving up from my 95 Dynasty if it had a slide out in it.  Slides just make such a huge difference inside, especially if you plan on staying in it for any length of time.

One thing that I didn't look at when I got this one was the radiator ...look for any corrosion or leaks on it, that was a big one right off, all the other stuff replaced was needed house water pump, basement heater, tires, shocks, brakes and batteries other than that it has been the best rig  !  

19 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Very ridiculous. But hey I get letters in the mail weekly to buy my property, for about 1/4 what it’s worth. These are all preying on ones that are 1) desperate in need 2) don’t know what they have or 3) diminishing mental capacity 

For sure !!

19 hours ago, Jim Bob said:

CW cannot pay you full price for it and then turn around and sell it for more.  Just makes sense but I always see that when I trade cars...  they will offer you less than wholesale for your trade and ask retail for their vehicle...  I usually just turn it around on them and offer them the same deal in reverse and they tell me I'm crazy.  I always get a laugh out of that because I'll reply...  that is just exactly what you offered me... so who is the crazy one?  HaHa  I don't mind a dealer making a slice or two of bread off me, but just walk out when they want the entire loaf.

I am aware of the practices of the business, I sold used cars for awhile and know you need to make money .. 

15 hours ago, FLynes said:

Camping World sent me the same thing....this was when we had our 1976 Monaco Winchester (Class C)....so I filled the form out anyway, for grins and giggles. I had three different CW salesmen call me, and each one was silent for a few seconds, after I told them the year, and each one hung up on me.

I had done a lot of business with them ... but more than likely will drop them now 

18 hours ago, CorinthWest said:

My only observations is, you must have time to burn.  Wish I did.

You had time to read this and answer it ... congratulations on finding the time to burn !

38 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

They are digging deep. I got a call last week, “am I still looking for a new 5th wheel?” Umm no, I bought a 5th wheel from your lot 7 years ago……

Sales have lived very well last few years….they will get “real world” Quick as well.

 

I know that they are supposed to buy low and resell high ..but that is ridiculous ! 

3 minutes ago, TomV48 said:

AS A RULE.  NEVER USE A TRADE IN.  They need to make a profit twice. 

A few years ago, my friend bought a new MB Class C- for about $90k.   Hated it first trip out. Too small.  Flush glass windows that didn't let enough air in, even at the beach.

Went back to THE "FRIEND" the salesman.  With about 150 miles on coach.  He graciously put her in an entry level Fleetwood class C (full street price then about $65k then) "and she only had to pay $10,000 more.    And she still recommends the guy.

And that place has a much better reputation than CW.

Wow ... we all know how the business goes !

43 minutes ago, Fasthobie16 said:

Why would you consider even replying to  CW or using their services?  

lol lol ...I have an account with them and they sent me the message, so I thought I would see what they had to offer !

Has anybody fallen for : Get your fast appraisal from Camping World sales ?
I filled out the question parts and got a reply from a salesman who wanted more info on my rig !
So I sent him a more detailed reply on it 
So on my 02 Winsor with 350 Cummins around 65000 miles on it with new brakes, shocks, tires all new awnings and a long list of other stuff..
He comes back with a high appraisal of 24,000 but more than likely less than that because of the economy ...
I told him I had more than that in the upgrades to it and that I would be giving him the coach ... he replied with welcome to the new world !!

Not sure where to post this but just before New years day I lost my daily discussions notices !
How can I start to receive them again ?

21 hours ago, jacwjames said:

One issue you may have is that the RV2012 uses 12 awg wire on the AC side while the RV3012 uses 10 awg.   Not sure if by just leaving the 20 amp breakers will be good enough to protect the system.  I'm sure others will chime in.

Thanks for the reply !!
My son is an electrician I will have him check it out and see What kind of a job it would be  if I go this route ..
again thanks !! 

20 hours ago, vito.a said:

I'd recommend you replace your Trace inverter with a Magnum.  Monaco switched to Magnum inverters in 2006. 

Magnum inverters are made in the US and have great tech support and parts readily available.  Magnum inverters also have a three year parts and labor warranty.

A Magnum ME2012 will install with a minimum of rewiring (you will need a new longer ground cable).  If you need a pure sine inverter (required for some electronics and residential refrigerators) then a Magnum MS2012 will work well.  

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/mobile-power-products/inverter-chargers?field_input_current_tid_selective[]=89&field_output_power_watts_value[min]=200&field_output_power_watts_value[max]=15000&field_output_frequency_value_selective[]=2&field_output_voltage_value_selective[]=1

This place has great prices on Magnum inverters.  i also saw one of the marine supply places had them on sale.  

https://www.donrowe.com/Magnum-Energy-ME2012-p/me2012.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt62FpsLD7AIVBInICh314QDTEAMYASAAEgIOkfD_BwE

Thank you for the info on the Magnums ...I will do some research on them !

I was kinda hoping that I wouldn't need to change things up ... But sounds like either way there will be some changes if I can't find the right one to put back in !
And again Thanks for the reply !!

Well I think my inverter took a dump last week while on a hunting trip!
I have a 2002 Windsor with a Trace RV 2012 and while watching a movie one night the monitor board lights started going out, then the lights for holding tanks and propane all stopped working ...  the generator was running and keeping batteries charged and the furnace fan was on but nothing else was ..I am just assuming it was it's time to go after 18 years ! ??
Checked the basement and you could smell the burnt electrical from the inverter area ...the light was blinking on it and I flipped it off and that was the last of it !!
The tv remained running at the time of all this ...but it quit soon ...now none of the plug ins are hot except one in the basement that works while the generator is running ... and the monitor for the charging system on the panel works .

I have found a replacement Inverter (RV3012) is this an ok choice for replacement for what I have or should I keep looking ?
 
 

I am not sure if this is what you are looking for ...hopefully it helps ..?   I tore my whole water system apart looking for the check valve and found it as I tore the last of it apart !!
This is where mine was ...in the water bay where you hook your fresh water hose ... and it had a piece of charcoal from an inline filter stuck in there ...for some reason it didn't have a screen in it at the time but it does now ! 

On 8/9/2020 at 5:16 PM, Dennis H said:

Jim, while maybe not pertinent, it's wise to note that some, notice I said some, applications use the mount for a ground so you won't have that extra wire. Monaco used white wires almost exclusively for their grounds.....Dennis

Tom,  my post had nothing to do with politics. Buying local means if it doesn't work/fit/whatever means you can take it back to your LOCAL store and exchange/return it. It usually also means you don't have to wait for someone to deliver it to your home and hope some thief doesn't need it more than you do.  Yes, I would prefer to buy American as our products usually have more quality control than do other countries but keep in mind we have become a 'throw away' society instead of the 'fix it and keep it forever' society of yesteryear so we tend to buy by cost not quality......safe travels....Dennis

You are right ...I bought my replacement from my local napa store ..Hooked it all up and it didn't work,tested all the output wires and nothing !
Took it back and got another, what are the odds of getting two in a row bad ?
The third one worked !

So I finally got back to working on mt water feedback issue !!
I did find the backflow valve after tearing the water fill compartment apart ..the back flow valve is the hose hook up where you fill the tank ...!
Looks like the inline filter on the hose passed a few pieces of charcoal that ended up in the spring of the valve and kept it open, for the money the quality of the  filters  should be better  !!! 
  .....Seems it is always something simple when it just happens ....?? 

3 hours ago, Grampy OG said:

Count me in on the same problem. Turn on the pump and water comes out the city fill hose. My fix was to cut the pex and install a shark-bite inline pex check valve. Less than 10 minutes to fix mine. Amazon link - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00506ET10/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

 Thanks for the reply ..... Where did you install the valve in your line ?

5 hours ago, miacasa_2000 said:

I had the same situation on my 2003 dynasty . Mine was up behind the panel that just looked like to much trouble to remove and I didn't want to cut a access panel unless I had to.

So I came up with this a tee with a pressure regulator so I don't need the portable one any more and there is no flow restriction. and then a 1/4 turn ball valve I close when using the

water pump. While at it you can see I brought the hose connection with a quick connect over to line straight up with the access hole Monaco had installed so much easier.   

That is another great idea ... 
Is the pressure regulator on the tee with the blue hose ?

6 hours ago, Moonwink said:

There should be a check valve in the city water supply connection.  There should also be a check valve at the pedestal that would not only stop the backflow of water into the water supply but vent any water trying to move the wrong way.   If those check valve aren't there or aren't functioning and you are indeed pumping water back into the city water supply lines you are contaminating the water supply for the whole park or city.  This shouldn't be possible but if it is happening, you must not allow it to continue.  It's a public health hazard.

I am hooked up in my drive way at this  time ..
and I am on my own well and the well pressure is greater than the pump in the coach so it isn't feeding back into my well !
The only way I knew it was have a back pressure problem was due to a bad washer on the hose connection to my outside faucet !

1 hour ago, willbo777 said:

I have a city/tank valve mounted in my wet bay as well.  It is right on the face of the panel.  I replaced the original city/tank valve with a positive ball valve about 10 years ago.  I still don't think that valve is your problem.

The only two valves in the compartment where the pump is located are the hot water valve for draining the hot system ...and the other is going to the water pump itself ... then the manifold system mounted on the wall .. ...Those are the only ones in there .. then the one on the panel where you replaced yours ...?
I will be getting the new one in today ...and we will see ....I sure apprecaite all of your input ... ..I just don't understand how something works one minute and then not !!???? lol lol

18 minutes ago, willbo777 said:

I don't know why it happens so often and sporadically.  Sometimes I go for 7-8 months with no problem then I seem to replace it twice in another couple months.  On our coach it is a cheap plastic check valve in which the rubber O-ring that seals the valve gets jammed up or gets moved out of place.  On our coach you can crawl in the basement compartment just ahead of the plumbing bay, slide open the access panel and I can reach in and get to it.  It is located behind my water pump and beside my water hose reel, and it is connected with easy to turn without tools PEX fittings with wings.  The one sure sign that the valve has gone bad is when I disconnect the city water, water flows out of the end of my hose.  Also I have noticed it being bad when all of a sudden the water flow inside the coach seems low.  I can't get you a picture right now, sorry.

Thanks for getting back ....that is exactly what mine does ...when I unhook the hose and power the pump ..turn the valve and it keeps pumping back through the hose... that valve was my suspect  so I pulled it and got a new one ..Hopefully I will get it back together today !??
do you have a city/tank valve in your sanitation bay too ?
Do you have to crawl in there to access

it to run city water ?

12 minutes ago, willbo777 said:

It is most likely a bad check valve, and it would be so much better if you said what coach model and year you have.  I replace my check valve often, on our coach it is a cheap plastic valve.  I carry a half dozen with me at all times and am able to replace it in about 3 minutes without tools.  I would look there first.

2002 Monaco Windsor  ...  The valve I am referring to sounds like your valve ...But mine is mounted  behind a short panel in the sanitation service bay and everything has to come off of the panel to get to the valve ...then it takes a pair of channel locks to pull the valve and takes about 45 minutes to do .
The valve cost about 10 bucks, do you have any idea why yours goes out often ?
I have had the coach about 8 years and haven't had the problem before . 

1 hour ago, eddie4ne said:

Don't know if this relates to your problem since the resolution to ours was to tighten the pump. We were having the  frensh water tank fill even though the valve was set to city. Thinking it was the city/tank valve that had gone bad we were waiting to get home to do the repair. In talking to a camp neighbor and looking at our system we realized that housing plate covering the impeller was leaking. It was hard to see since it is mounted toward the center of the coach. We tightened the set of 5/6 screws and all is good.

Thanks for the advice ...
I have been in there to adjust the center screw you are talking about to adjust the pressure and the shut off point on the pump my pump has 5 screws, there is no leak there , but your problem sounds kinda like mine ...except when hooked up to city water and the valve set to the tank position it will back feed into the hose that is hooked up and pressurizes it.. and no matter where the valve is set it puts the pressure back into the hose .

Whenever I have my water pump switch on it seems to feed back through the city water side ...
No matter where the valve is set (city/pump) . I have pulled the valve and it appears to be good, but maybe with water and pressure could it be bypassing ?
The pump will come on slightly acting like there is a slight leak but there is none, then it shuts down and will cycle again every 20 seconds .... I have the hose hooked up   to my faucet and you can tell there is pressure back feeding  in the hose due to a bad hose washer !
Has anybody had this problem ? 
 

21 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Your system seems to acting differently then mine.

I leave my exhaust brake off until I need it.  When I turn it the transmission drops to 2nd gear, as long as I don't hit the accelerator it stays in 2nd gear.  If I turn on my cruise it disables the exhaust brake but if I start braking the exhaust brake kicks in. 

Not sure what the remedy may be, hopefully someone will chime in.

 

18 hours ago, Jemert said:

When my engine brake engages it downshifts to 4th if I'm going slow enough.  I've learned to hit the top of hills at the speed I want to descend.  That speed is generally between 45 and 50 because my coach will be approaching 2100 RPM in 4th at 50.  Generally my coach Jake brake will hold the coach under 50 on 90% of the descents I've encountered out West and on the way to and from Alaska.  If I have to brake on a descent I will brake relatively hard for a short period of time letting off the brake so they can cool.  When descending I generally have to accelerate periodically to maintain 45-50.  Most important points, speed at top of hill low and brake hard for short periods, do not ride the brake!!  Hope I'm not telling you stuff you already know.  Good luck!!

This is what mine does ...and I do what you are doing with braking ... So I must be doing what I need to be doing !!?? 
Do you ever get the brakes hot to the point of smelling them ?

My Exhaust  brake works when applied ... but even if I downshift manually the transmission will upshift when it hits a certain rpm ... then I apply my brakes to reduce the speed and keep the Exhaust brake on !
The brakes ..drums shoes , the entire system was replaced last year.
This has caused a few hair raising times and some hot brakes ..... Is there a problem with the system or am I doing something wrong ?
This is on a 2002 38 foot windsor with 62000 miles ,,, transmission has been serviced at the same times as brakes were done !
Thanks in advance !!
 

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