Larry Laursen

I use other Apps, Mudflap and GasBuddy in addition to TSD because out west, Mavericks have prices that are better than Loves.  Also, some smaller locations can be found with GasBuddy.  Many Mavrick locations easily accommodate large RVs and Trucks.

5 hours ago, buzz shamer said:

I dump my air then put my landing gear down just to get it level  and the step is close to the ground 

You have to be careful when dumping all the air out.  When the campsite has a lower corner, i.e. left rear lower than left front.  I this situation you will twist the frame and possibly pop the windshield.  You want to put the front jack down so the coach can roll some without twisting the frame.  

Fully agree with Scotty.  The jacks are offset from the axles and bend the frame differently than when on the suspension.  The coach is built while it's on the wheels and suspension at full ride height.  Thus, when you support on the jacks you are distorting the frame and clearances on the slide out mechanism.  Also, there is only a single front jack and when the slides are extended the frame is twisted.

6 hours ago, timaz996 said:

The power resistor should do the trick. Get it at a stereo shop. I have so much noise in my coach I had to put them on my A/C units 12v power to keep them from short cycling.  

Tim I am wondering where you put the noise suppressor in you A/C control line and its size. I have a similar problem of short cycling.

Scotty, Prayers are with you and your family as they work their way through this.  You and Frank are major contributors to the success of this site.  Everyone appreciates your efforts.

I have done what you want to do while on a caravan to Alaska.  Yes, plug the cord into the block heater outlet.  Now, on my unit the outlet is at the radiator because I have a rear radiator.  On your 03 Navigator you have a switch on the dash and "there is an outlet" shown in the schematics.  Where it is, may be a challenge to find but most likely in the engine compartment. However, I wouldn't be concerned about unplugging the block heater as you are in the South and don't need it.    

I have the Verizon Home internet box.  I have used from AZ to WA, MI to UT and AZ to MI with good results.  Worked in some remote locations in California and Colorado.  I can stream Prime video at about 10Mbs.  With my cellular plan, it costs $25/mo.  I do get 5G at my house in AZ.

I have had the Roadmaster on 2 different coaches and 4 different toads.  One toad, a 2006 Ford Escape hybrid, had active power brakes because they were powered electrically.  I changed the 1 1/4" diameter cylinder to a 5/8" diameter cylinder.  This gave the right braking with the active power brakes which is a 4:1 boost.  Roadmaster sells a "regulator" for active systems but it's not proportional, just limits the pressure.  I have talked to their reps. at shows, and they don't understand the difference.

I use Google Earth to give me a view of the campground.  You can see how many trees are there.  Also, if there is a lot of junk around the campground.  Google Earth can be somewhat outdated, but generally gives a reasonable overview of campground and roads to get there. Individual campsite views can be helpful, easily doctored. I do use site photos from the campground websites.

8 minutes ago, tomevansfl said:

I have to have my key switched to accessory to operate the leveling system. 

Yes, you have to have your key in the accessory or on position on some models, depending on the year to operate the jacks.  That is because of an interlock relay that is triggered by the key.  However, the power comes from the house batteries on most models.

20 hours ago, cbr046 said:

They don't throttle your speed back after a XX GB during the month? 

I have Verizon with no data cap also, but after 15GB Samuel Morse has a faster fist. 

- bob

I also have the Verizon home internet router. There is no throttling on it and is unlimited data.  I have used for streaming the last 2 years with good results.

Jack's get power from house batteries. There are high amp circuit breakers in the  battery compartment. 

I got a pair at REV repair in Oregon a few years ago.

Kurtis,

Most likely the Nason switch on the park brake valve. 

SM-1C-66R/WP28 by NASON - Buy or Repair at Radwell - Radwell.com

The park bell relay are in the Monaco box 2.  It appears there are two relays in the box.  I Relay #1 has wire 64 H going to the alarm.

I have been using an Excel spreadsheet for my mileage since 2000 on my 2000 and 2005 Endeavor.  I fill anywhere from 20 to 60 gallons on trips and run a fair amount in mountains.  Also upped the tire diameter some so the trip is off some.

This is what mine looks like. Tank, 5 tank, trailing 10 of 5 tank and overall.  The functions are easy to use in Excel.

In your photo of the power cord bay, I see the power cord going into the Progressive Industies EMS.  The cord does not look like it's clamped on the outer cover if the power cord.  I would recommend working to get the wire adjusted to clamp on the outer cover.  What I see is a problem waiting to happen.  If the streaking is rust, then water is getting into the side wall and coming out the bottom at either the top belt line of just above the compartment doors in the lower beltline.

There is one common beeper for several alarms, so the sound will come from the same place.  You need to replace the Nason switch.

Here is the part number: SM-1C-66R/WP28 by NASON - Buy or Repair at Radwell - Radwell.com

It's mounted under the arm rest consol on the park brake valve.  You can access through the cup holde.

Fuel milage variation is very real from full tank to tank.  This because the tank runs across the width of the coach.  A one-to-two-inch difference in the left to right side of the coach while fueling will give about 5 gallons difference.  If you are only filing about 30 gallons this is significant.  I have tracked my fuel usage for 140,000 miles and the tank-to-tank fill varies from 5 to 12 mpg.  The 10-fill average is 7.5 to 8.5 mpg.  Total lifelong is average is 7.8. 

I have carried a unmounted spare since 2001.  We went to AK that year.  I fit in my compartment on the 2000 Endeavor and 2005 Endeavor.  It was the "best" tire from my last set.  Never used it until 2021 when I had a blowout in Texas.  The road service guy mounted it on the rim and I was on my way.  Had a second blowout in Ohio and used it to get to a tire shop after the road service guy changed it out.  A mounted tire is more than I can handle and the insurance paid for both fixes.

I would open Garmin Express without the GPS connected to the computer.  I update mine on a regular basis but it seems like every time I open Garmin Express, it needs to update.  You can set it to just update on the computer and then do the GPS later from the computer file.  

2 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

As technology advances over the years you would think these gps systems would be fool proof by now. 

Mike, not to pick on your comment; however, I would like to clear up some of our ideas.  The "technology" is very good.  That is, the system provides very good location information.  It knows where you are within a few feet.  The problem is on the "human" side.  We realign roads, stores move locations, new roads are built, roads are closed, bridges are removed, etc.  All these changes need to be added to the data in the system.  In the one case I encountered I was told someone messed up and didn't allow vehicles over 5,000 lbs on I 80 across Wyoming after an update.  This only effected trucks and RV with a profile.  Jim above encountered new bridges in Spain as an example.  10 years ago Garmin sold users a new DVD disk once a year for $150 now they update about 3-4 times a year.  I lived in a rural area in Michigan where county roads were not updated and still showed passage through a river where a bridge had been removed many years ago.  My motorhome shows up at my brothers-in-law's property in Google Earth and hasn't changed for about 10+ years.  I understand there are some official government routes to feed this information.  We do know that Google has their own "cars" traveling around the country taking pictures to input to their maps and I have seen some vehicles with similar equipment that had different identification.  Incidentally, I have sent Garmin information on many of the errors, I encountered, and they were fixed.  PlanRV also changed a lot of information on rest areas and campground entrance locations.  Garmin and Google use significantly different routing algorithms and using geocode location information from Google can cause problems with Garmin GPS systems.

I have been using Garmin auto/rv for 20 years. l have a RV 760. Garmin gets their maps from HERE HERE Technologies | The world's #1 location platform

HERE used to be Navteq.  HERE provides basic information to many customers as shown on their site. Garmin provides the user interface (UI) and adds information from other sources for the RV and trucking units.  Like all the other mapping systems there are errors in the billions of data points.  I have had numerous conversations with Garmin tech support and PlanRV, the supplier of a lot of the RV park and rest area information as moderator of the RV760 group on groups.io Garmin760@groups.io | Topics.

I have had a lot of odd things happen because of errors in the data.  A few years ago it wouldn't let the RV on I 40 and then I 80.  The problem with I 80 was someone put the weight limit too low. A three years ago it wouldn't take I 75 through Atlanta.

In my case I plan my route using Garmin's Basecamp mapping software.  I know others have tried it and had difficulties using it.  I agree with them it's not easy to use and hasn't been updated too much.  The advantage is the program uses the same maps and data as in the GPS when you have the same version of the maps on both.  So, when you put a route in the program, it will show most of the problems.  Many times, you can change to auto and the route will go where you want.  I did this on US 12 in Idaho 2 years ago knowing the route was usable. I can also export the route as a .kml file and import that into Google Earth and see what is along the way such as sharp curves and steep grades.  I have several thousand waypoints in it which helps. The RV 780 and newer RV GPS' have are a lot of campground and additional points of interest.  I Download the daily routes to the GPS from the computer and they are accessed through the Trip Planning function on the GPS. The trips are indexed on the GPS by the departure date and time. 

The map routing algorithm in the GPS is different than what is used in the computer program. This can cause some differences in the route and the GPS has traffic and construction avoidance algorithms. Thus, I review the route for the day on the GPS before leaving the campsite.  This will show the unnecessary off ramp routing, etc.

On 9/20/2023 at 1:04 PM, rschley said:

I then disconnected the breaker and set it aside (just checked it for continuity and it was ok)  leaving me the Red/Black #6 wire and Black #6 wire with bare ends as shown in the picture. Then in one of those uneducated "just for the heck of it moves" Now with the breaker eliminated from the equation, I ran a meter test from the Black/Red #6 to the bottom snap in tab (previously referred to silver tabs) and had 120v. I then ran a test from the Black #6 to the top snap in tab (previously referred to as the silver tab) and had a reading of 0v. I had expected that to be 120v since the other leg was 120v, leading me to believe this might lead to the problem.

If this is an erroneous way of testing this, please feel free to let me know. My ego will recover.

You need to measure the voltage from the red and black wire to the neutral bus where all the white wires are connected.  The snap-in tab is the output side of the CB.  It should read zero if there isn't anything on in the coach. The reason you got 120 on one side is the TV or another device is probably fed off that side and it has a circuit on waiting for a remote signal and will act to "ground" the CB output.  Measure the voltage again to the neutral wires(white) and see if you get 120 volts.  If you don't then a wire is severed between the ATS and the distribution panel.

Quote

1 hour ago, StellaTariche said:

On the subject of 120v vs 240v dryers….
 

(and I should know this but dont)

Why can’t we run a 240V dryer off the genset (Onan 7500w for me) or 50A service?

phase issues?

because a 240V dryer would sure work better, right?

Thanks,

- John, (the guy with a 5V EE degree who still gets shocked on the toaster on Saturday mornings)

 

John,  The 7.5 and 8.0 KW Onan generators use an inverter to give 2 legs of 120 volt ac. The 2 legs are in-phase and will show 0 volts when measured across the legs. Thus, you only get 120 volts and the neutral carries the sum of the current used on both legs. You potentially center tap the heater and wire 2 circuits to the heater.  However, I would only recommend for an electrician vs an EE who gets shocked by the toaster. 🤣LOL.  The 10 and 12 KW Onan generators are true 240/120 volt units.  However, the normal household W/D is 240 volts at 30 amps, which is  4 times the the power of 120 at 15 amps.  Anyone expecting similar performance is going to be very disappointed. 50 amp shore power is 240/120 however the internal wiring of the MH doesn't accommodate that to the W/D except on high line units.