fredelkamp

I'll check them out

Since the original GFCI only tripped occasionally when I switched on the inverter I have decided it is a back burner item. So I have reinstalled the original GFCI and returned the Leviton GFCI, I think it's just too sensitive for my old system. I will probably order a Hubbell for the next try, but it is really hard to troubleshoot something when it is working 99.9% of the time. The good news is I was able to install a new Old Work Shallow Work Box, as the old one was crumbling. 

Note: The Magnum manual for the MSH3012RV recommends the following GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) Outlets:
Cooper VGF15W

Hubbel GF520EMBKA, GFRST15xx and GFRST20xx Series

Leviton 8899-A, N7899, GFNT1 and GFNT2 Series

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Assuming you have a Magnum, which is what the owner's manual indicates, there are THREE pin style circuit breakers on the Inverter.  You need to check the MAIN panel first.  There is a 30 Amp breaker there.  Then on the Magnum there is an INCOMING 30 Amp pin style.  There are TWO outgoing Pin CB  One feeds the Microwave.  Check to see if you have the clock or it is working.  That verifies that power is coming INTO the Inverter from the Main Panel and this is being PASSED THOUGH to the Microwave circuit.  The OTHER circuit is for the GFCI in the lavatory.

> I have upgraded to a Magnum MSH3012RV Pure Hybrid Inverter Charger. The MAIN panel has a 30 Amp breaker for the inverter. The clock on the microwave is working.

We do NOT have any 08 Diplomat prints.  The 07 was "really interesting"  The Prints show that the Lavatory GFCI is a 20 Amp.  Please check the old one and verify that it was a 20 Amp.  The Microwave is, per the prints, a 15 Amp.  I am prejudiced for the Eaton Wiring Devices brand...(was Eagle Signal until Cooper bought and then was Cooper Wiring....which was sold to Eaton).  YES, the OEM and the replacements have been changed.  Blame local code inspectors that want to see the GROUND PIN UP.

> The original Lavatory GFCI is a 20 Amp

NOW....on thing to do.  Look at the Inverter.  IF BOTH of the AC OUT Breakers are 20 Amps, then the replacement 20 is what you will need, but IF one, per the print is 15 and the other is 20, then the print shows the 

You really need to verify the INCOMING power to the GFCI with a VOM. My suspicion is that the line and load are reversed.  BUT, if there is NO 120VAC on either line....then the issue is upstream and will require more complex and extensive trouble shooting.

> Incoming power to the GFCI is 120 volts

NOW....it there are THREE cables or Romex in the box, then your 2008 was upgraded to the more conventional wiring diagram....which we can discuss later.

> There are three cables in the box. Two connect to the Line terminals (one with 120 volts and one with zero volts) and the third connects to the load (Zero Volts) (To insure I didn't confuse these cables the "load" cables where tagged with bright yellow tape.

BUT, you have to HAVE 120 VAC incoming, which will be the LINE........and the LOAD side will be ZERO VOLTS.

Please do that and report back.

38040005 (DIAGRAM, 120V AC).pdf 104.16 kB · 1 download

Replies imbedded in original text

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

On the back of the GFCI there should be Line & Load molded into the plastic.  Connect the incoming power to the line side.  Load goes to the outlets. 

Yep, that's there, the old one has the line on the bottom and the new one has the line on the top. Two circuits connect to line and one to the load, so only one circuit is protected.

4 hours ago, MurrayD said:

It sounds like you’ve mixed up the Line and Load wires.

I wish it was that simple, then it would be an easy fix. But never say never, I'll review the videos and see what that shows.

2 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I know that Xantrex recommends certain brands of GFCI outlets to use. 

Wonder if there is a similar recommendation with Magnum. 

I haven't seen any in their documentation. The recommendation for the Leviton, along with a few others was found searching "GFCI" on this site.

Occasionally my bathroom GFCI trips, usually when I switch on the inverter. Not a big pain but easy to replace right, well not so much. I read the post on here about replacing a GFCI and purchased a 20amp "Leviton GFNT2-T Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Non-Tamper-Resistant Receptacle" since it was the only one they had that was on the "approved" list. The replacement went fairly simple even though everything on the new GFCI was backwards from the original. When I turned the circuit breaker back on the status light was green on the new GFCI, but there was no power. The directions say the GFCI is shipped tripped and to insure it is tripped, but it doesn't move, the reset button moves but the GFCI doesn't reset. The status light stays green the whole time. Thinking GFCI was bad I replaced it with a new one, but it didn't work either, so I assume I'm overlooking something and put the old one back in and it's working fine. Any guesses as to what I'm doing wrong?

Since this GFCI connects to the Inverter I should probably note that I have upgraded to a Magnum MSH3012RV Pure Hybrid Inverter Charger.

On 11/17/2023 at 10:07 AM, fredelkamp said:

We Have a YouTube Channel called The EdelKampers. We are full-time RVers and travel and live in a 2008 Monaco Diplomat 36PDQ, we call "Bullwinkle". We tow a small truck camper we call "Rocky". Mostly we do reviews on the campgrounds and attractions where we are at, but sometimes things break and we show what we did to fix it.

Here's a link to my favorite: 
https://youtu.be/1NFmcPYLsxI

The deed is done. the two A/C were swapped for $360. The results are amazing, the front A/C that that was running weak and icing up works great in the bedroom and no more icing up. The rear A/C has no problem heating or cooling the living room and it is a little bit quieter. The techs that did the swap left the control units in place ind just moved the A/C itself., so no worry about dip switches.

We Have a YouTube Channel called The EdelKampers. We are full-time RVers and travel and live in a 2008 Monaco Diplomat 36PDQ, we call "Bullwinkle". We tow a small truck camper we call "Rocky". Mostly we do reviews on the campgrounds and attractions where we are at, but sometimes things break and we show what we did to fix it.

Thanks Tom, both ACs are 15 KW with heat pumps. I only have one thermostat, originally it was the five button unit that also controls the furnace. The old five button thermostat is safely stored away in the box that contained the Micro-Air I replaced it with. Will the Micro-Air need to be reset? Is there a manual/drawing showing the dip switches settings and location? I'm having a mobile tech do the work.

All I know is the rear AC will freeze you out of the bed room, not so much with the front one and it likes to ice up. I assume the front one was used a lot more than the rear one and as so could use a freon recharge.

Are there any problems with swapping the front and rear original Penguin ac's in my 2008 Diplomat? The rear ac is much stronger then the front one.

We made a video on this a while back on our solution. I don't think YouTube links are allowed so just search for "No Fuss Flush Not Working. Easy Black Tank Repair"

I did the "reset" this morning. Shut off all AC and DC power and waited 15 minutes, restored the DC and AC power, which was acting funny, AC wouldn't stay on an washer/dryer wouldn't run. All fixed now, just need to find me a display with all the things it's controlling listed.

On 5/3/2022 at 3:29 PM, Idoc57 said:

Fred, you might give Jim Walls a call at Source Engineering.  458-207-9442.  He is very knowledgeable about air bags, and most things Monaco.

Carey

Thanks, I talked to Jim and he said I don't have ping tanks and they put the Automann 8897 on the rear and they have with the 1/4" NPT air inlet, he didn't know what went on the front. I think I'll just wait till I get back to Eugene OR, I'll just have them put on their Ride Enhancement Kit.

I'm looking for replacement Air Bags for my 2008 Monaco Diplomat 36PDQ. It's a Roadmaster RR8R (8 air bag system). I check with several vendors suggested here and the only response I got back was:

"Most common is W01-358-9376 with the 1/4" NPT air inlet on the rear and W01-358-8897 with the 3/4" air inlet on the front. They could also all be W01-358-9376 air bags, you would have to check the air line size or call Monaco to be sure. Some people go with all W01-358-8897 bags and bush down from 3/4" to 1/4" if needed."

Since I don't think I have Ping tanks, I think the W01-358-9376 with the 1/4" NPT air inlet, but thought I'd check with the experts before I order them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

When we had our Ford V-10 gas motorhome we ran with the generator on all the time, that coach needed every bit of that extra horsepower to get up the hills.

On 7/18/2021 at 2:40 PM, Gary M said:

Maybe unhook top, slip in bottom and pull up to set top rollers in. Just guessing!!!

Thanks, you where close, I loosened the bolts on top of the rollers which lowered the doors about 1/4" so the hooks would easily fit in bottom track, but only the first one would stay in the track when I tightened up the bolts. I then noticed that the first roller "axle" was lower than the other three rollers Appears the axles are not centered and if it's lower the door is held up higher. So I took the other rollers off, turned them over and tightened them up while I held the bottom hooks in with my foot. Worked great, no more floppy door.

Thanks everyone, I went with the propane shutoff valve with a quick connect and the 3/8" Flare x 1/4" Male Pipe brass tube fitting to adapt it my fitting,  we'll see when it all gets here if it all works.

2 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Yes I have done the same thing on a different coach. Some parts you’ll need. Plan on doing it to this coach too.

<snip>

What would I need to connect this Quick Connect Adapter to my copper pipe in the picture? A 3/8" Flare x 1/4" Male Pipe brass tube fitting?

Anderson Metals 54048-0604 Brass Tube Fitting, Half-Union, 3/8" Flare x 1/4" Male Pipe

Thanks for all the great replies!

We recently had our Norcold 1210 converted to a 12 compressor, making available a capped off gas line that I think would be perfect for installing an aux gas connection to use on our Blackstone griddle. Would this work, has anyone done this and what kind of hardware will I need?

Does anyone know how to reattach the lower shower door brackets? mine have slowly come off and now none of them are attached as you can see in the pictures.

3 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

That looks an awful like my backup camera plug-in.  Bet it was for an optional side camera.  

Thanks, Both my side camera work as does my backup camera, and by the video quality they are all original. You can actually see the backup camera wire in the bottom of the first picture.

While trying to find out why my Coach Step won't retract I found this wire dangling in the passenger side of the generator cavity. But I am unable to find where or what it may attach too. I'm hopping it the answer to my step problem, but either way I'm sure it should be connected to something.