Jump to content

bestins

Members
  • Posts

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by bestins

  1. okay I removed the air intake hose yesterday and on mine the only  way to get to the upper air intake hose is to remove the aluminum shrouds in the radiator area, then it is easy access to remove the hose to replace. The upper hose connection is clamped onto a piece of pvc that is fiberglassed in, the open top of the pvc is where the air comes in from the outside from the outer grill at top left rear of motorhome.

  2. Haven't thought about straight aluminum tubing. So did you also eliminate the DPF to go straight pipe?

    Moderator’s EDIT.  
     

    One issue per topic is a site rule.  This “add on issue” delves into areas where knowledge of the emissions as well as potential damaging of the engine could occur.  If @bestins wants to pursue this as a topic for assistance or discussion, then, do so in the proper category.  Major issues like this are monitored so that the individuals who have the technical background and such can provide input.  The Staff has a “moderating” policy where major modifications or revisions that are counter to a manufacturer’s recommendations are monitored and any opinions or recommendations that could have potentially large dollar impacts are “edited”, not censored, with appropriate warnings or rationale so that other members will understand both side and the potential consequences.  

    Thanks for understanding.

  3. Mine is too long also, droops down some before connecting with the air filter box. Mine is doing like yours also with the small pin holes, this seems to be very cheap, thin hose. What seemed odd to me was the diameter of the hose, most seem to be in even number inch sizes, and this is not. I haven't had time yet to remover the outside cover(grill) yet, but I do think the way to access is through the shroud area. Hey Myron, next time I'm looking through the files you sent, I'll, call you first for help, I don't think I can figure out your file system. HA!!  Thanks everyone for the help.

  4. Change it. Just had Talin RV make me a new one 3 weeks ago, due to mine had ripped like yours, and while on  vacation in Florida a gust of wind caught it and the whole awning with the unigard(the lone aluminum piece that covers the awning when rolled in) ripped loose. Mine is a 2008 diplomat.

    The soft connect is what holds the awning, cover and awning arms up against the motorhome. With the soft connect gone or ripped loose the awning arms will flop down, per above what Happycarz said(you don't want it to fail while driving).

    • Thanks 1
  5. I've been getting the red stop engine light on right after cranking the engine, but its is erratic, does not do it everytime. I can stop and wait a few seconds then restart and normally it does not reappear. Sometimes I do have to stop and restart several times. If I start and it dosen't come onthen I am good to go, it does not come on while I am driving.  When I start and stop engine light comes on, it will not go off until I cut off engine.  Yesterday when getting ready to leave campground I started engine to warm up and stop engine did not come on. Warmed engine, then cut off to finish getting ready to leave, about 20 minutes later I recranked and got the stop engine light. It has been doing this for a while. I am definitely afraid to drive it with the light on.  I'm thinking it must be some type sensor problem.  2008 diplomat 400 ISL    Any ideas on what this may be?  

  6. yes, it is the front air tank. In the last pic it is the valve to the left-with 2 lines coming out of it-a dirty blue one comes in vertically from the top, and black one vertically from bottom. So it is a pressure protection valve?  Would I look for one at a big truck repair center, are these made to handle a specific air pressure?   I couldn't find a name on it but there was a number 5007(I think)on it.

  7. On 1/20/2021 at 9:08 AM, jacwjames said:

    When I first bought my rig I took it to Cummins for a complete service and inspection.  It passed with flying colors. Then went on a trip to AK and when I returned I did another service on it as I clocked 15K miles.  When I pulled the fuel filter I found it was almost clogged with a black slime.  The dreaded Algae.

    I know at work, when mothballing equipment they recommended using a biocide and the maintenance department used Biobor.  So that's what I started using.  Problem with just using the Biobor is that it kills the dead algae but it accumulates in the tank.  More research lead me to start using Startron, an enzyme that breaks down the dead algae.  I haven't had a problem since, that's been 11 years.   I would make sure to use both in a full fuel when I know I won't be using the coach for a while.

    Back in 2017 we started building our new house and knew there was no way I'd be able to use the coach since I was the general contractor on the house and was going to be doing as much of the work myself.  So I  made sure the fuel was full and treated with both Biobor and Startron.  I only drove the coach a couple times to get propane and move it to the new house location where I actually stayed in it for ~1 year, again only moving it periodically.  Fast forward to early 2000, (yup didn't use the coach during this time), and due to the virus knew I wasn't going to use the coach so I started pulling fuel from the tank to use in my tractor.  I was able to pull 85 gallons over a ~6 month period, always watching the condition of the fuel and found no signs of algae or contamination.  Finally took the coach for a long run and filled the coach back up with no adverse affects, yes I went back with doses of Biobor and Startron.

    You should probably do some research on how to change the fuel filters.  Getting stuck on the side of the road ain't fun.  I carry a couple sets of filters and can change myself just in case.

     

×
×
  • Create New...