RIPPPA

ThamksRonnie did you get the parts you needed. If so, do you have the part numbers. I need to new rear shoes and drum per a shop here in N. Texas but I’m tired of waiting on them to do it. I have another guy that will do the work I just need to find the parts. TIA

Ronnie did you get the parts you needed. If so, do you have the part numbers. I need to new rear shoes and drum per a shop here in N. Texas but I’m tired of waiting on them to do it. I have another guy that will do the work I just need to find the parts. TIA

On 7/30/2023 at 5:16 PM, RIPPPA said:

I just did this. The rear wire has power the front one does not. 

Thanks for the info. I will call them tomorrow. 

Thanks. I dropped my coach off at Industrial Power yesterday. They are 15 days behind. The waiting game begins. 

Mine is leaning to the passenger side. 

6 hours ago, beemerman said:

You could check to see if your jakes are working by sending 12v to the wires that plug on the valve cover spacer.  The pic you posted has one of the wires circled, there are two of them.  One is for the front 3 cyl and the other is for the rear 3 cyl.  Unplug the wire and put 12v to the connection one at a time and you should hear the jake come on and the engine run rough.  That will at least tell you if the problem is under the valve cover or not getting power to the valve cover. Its a good way to diagnose the problem and won't hurt a thing.

6 hours ago, beemerman said:

You could check to see if your jakes are working by sending 12v to the wires that plug on the valve cover spacer.  The pic you posted has one of the wires circled, there are two of them.  One is for the front 3 cyl and the other is for the rear 3 cyl.  Unplug the wire and put 12v to the connection one at a time and you should hear the jake come on and the engine run rough.  That will at least tell you if the problem is under the valve cover or not getting power to the valve cover. Its a good way to diagnose the problem and won't hurt a thing.

Sorry I misunderstood. I’ll try that tmw if I can figure out a way to connect the the plugs. 

2 hours ago, beemerman said:

You could check to see if your jakes are working by sending 12v to the wires that plug on the valve cover spacer.  The pic you posted has one of the wires circled, there are two of them.  One is for the front 3 cyl and the other is for the rear 3 cyl.  Unplug the wire and put 12v to the connection one at a time and you should hear the jake come on and the engine run rough.  That will at least tell you if the problem is under the valve cover or not getting power to the valve cover. It’s a good way to diagnose the problem and won't hurt a thing.

I just did this. The rear wire has power the front one does not. 

5 hours ago, Bob R said:

I know that I would not be comfortable tackling this problem myself. I have used a shop in the Fort Worth area for similar problems with success. The shop is a truck shop. It is Industrial Power. They are authorized dealers and service for Cummins and Allison equipment. They have been reasonably priced and knowledgeable about my 400ISL and Allison 3000. I believe they are an Izuzu truck facility. You might google the shop for more info. I know they use the insite diagnostic equipment. They provided me with an electronic copy of my engines ECM programming.

Contact info for Industrial Power is 817-834-7473. Address is 712 N Beach Street, Fort Worth, TX 76111.

Thanks for the info. I will call them tomorrow. 

9 hours ago, Ivan K said:

My thoughts are that since the tranny downshifts, your switch (or pedal, which ever you have) works. My Jake fuse is in the pedal circuit so that fact would eliminate it for me. Unless you are willing to check for Jake and selector signals on ECM connector, I think you need to have Insite hooked up to it to confirm that side of it.  If that checks out and the parms are set right, you still need to check for output of the ECM to Jake solenoids that supposed to open passage of pressurized oil to operate the valves. Like I said earlier, a number of possible causes. Even simply checking for signal at the pass-through connector into the valve overhead while stationary would likely not prove anything if the Jake is programmed to only operate over certain speed.

I know the Rockwall Luxury place has a lot of big rigs under their roof but I am just skeptical about RV places working on engines. Sorry, have no other recommendations, never been to any shop. I live not far, when home, have a computer hookup but only for a six-pin and ours is a different engine too.

I have a few other items to check. If they fail I guest my only other option would be Cummins but I hate to go there. Maybe I can find a good shop around. We’ll see. Thanks

6 minutes ago, BradHend said:

Not crazy familiar with Jake brakes, but I do know there’s a fuse to check - just starting with the basics - and if you said you changed the engine, I recall reading something about the engine idle speed and engine oil level.  Are they both reasonable?

Yes, idle is fine and I just checked all fluids today. I’m gone to check fuses tmw morning. It won’t be 105 degrees  then. 

2 minutes ago, BradHend said:

You haven’t quite told us for certain what you have, just what you think.  Have a look and see.  My manual clearly states I have a PAC brake and lists all the maintenance for it.  I don’t have a PAC brake, I have a VGT turbo..

I have a Jake Brake inside the valve cover  what else do you want to know? cover. What else would you like to know?

Anymore thoughts?

16 hours ago, BradHend said:

PAC brake or VGT turbo?

Jake brake I believe. 

2 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I hope the OP comes back because even tho most of us will never replace an engine these topics are incredibly interesting.  If he doesn't know all the answers to our questions, that's okay, we learn a lot anyway.  We'll figure it out.  There are some really smart guys on here, not me but they're here reading this.  Bill Rogers brings up the ECM, I didn't think about it,  I supposed he was using his original ECM, but maybe not what if the used engine had an ECM on it and that's in the RV?    It's not like the old shade tree days when they used a chain hoist and shade tree to pull the motor out of the farm truck and dropped in another one.  There's a lot to consider about these electronic marvels of today.

I am using my original ECM. 

3 hours ago, Bill R said:

@RIPPPA another thing to look at is your ECM settings for the engine brake.  Since you got a salvage engine.  Someone with the Insite software could check those for you. 

I’ll keep that in mind. Thanks. 

15 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Did you have an engine ( aka ) Jake brake on the original engine?   Are you reasonably certain this engine is equipped with a Jake brake and it's not an exhaust brake?

What engine do you have?  As Ivan said, with a Jake brake you'll know if it's working, but with an exhaust brake not so much.  Also,  a Jake brake will have a high and low switch.

Yes I had a Jake brake in the original engine and this salvage engine was a direct match to the original engine. 

16 hours ago, RIPPPA said:

So I don’t think my Engine Break on my 2005 Dynasty is working properly. This is a salvage engine we installed last year. I drove it to Colorado last summer without the engine break working. Took it back to the shop and got the break working I thought. I got it back this Jan. Driving it home it would down shift when I turned the switch on. I don’t live near any mountains so I not east to test. I took it to Oklahoma last weekend and drove it on some small mountains. It does down shift but I don’t feel any braking like what I think a Jake should do. Plus when I get up to 2800 rpm the trans will upshift causing you to brake to slow the Coach down enough to down shift again. I would live it if I knew how. Can you give me some insight?

I’m up for working on if you have ideas where to start or  Do you guys have any recommendations for good repair shops around the Dallas/Ft. Worth area? I have been in touch with Luxury Coach Service in Rockwall Tx but was wondering if there was any other options. 

TIA Tim

Sorry it’s a Cummins 400 ISL engine. 

So I don’t think my Engine Break on my 2005 Dynasty is working properly. This is a salvage engine we installed last year. I drove it to Colorado last summer without the engine break working. Took it back to the shop and got the break working I thought. I got it back this Jan. Driving it home it would down shift when I turned the switch on. I don’t live near any mountains so I not east to test. I took it to Oklahoma last weekend and drove it on some small mountains. It does down shift but I don’t feel any braking like what I think a Jake should do. Plus when I get up to 2800 rpm the trans will upshift causing you to brake to slow the Coach down enough to down shift again. I would live it if I knew how. Can you give me some insight?

I’m up for working on if you have ideas where to start or  Do you guys have any recommendations for good repair shops around the Dallas/Ft. Worth area? I have been in touch with Luxury Coach Service in Rockwall Tx but was wondering if there was any other options. 

TIA Tim

Following

You’re better than me. I was trying to get mine to work last week. Previous Owner had disconnected everything and I finally got it rewired where the DVD player works but I still can not get any reception on a TV portion. It can’t find any channels. I even bought a new over the air antenna but nothing. We don’t watch much TV so the DVD should be good for a while. 

I had to remove the kitchen backsplash that backs up to the shower to access a leak in my shower faucet in June. 

Luckily I have my own truck and rented a RGN trailer to bring mine home. I’m not very trusting in shops I’m not familiar with. Good luck. You can get some pretty good deals at small shops. Just have to do research. 

Call Visone RV parts.   I got a 8.9  from them last year. 
 

1 hour ago, Ray Davis said:

Yeah but what about your generator?  At 600 miles is it about to quit?  If you found yourself on the side of the highway waiting for help it would sure be nice to have that generator for air cond or heat plus tv and all the other stuff.  People often report having to wait for many hrs.  That's why I try to fill up at about 1/2 tank, I'm usually ready for a stroll anyway.  My nature is go & go & then go some more but I'm getting better, probably age, plus I can't hold it as long anymore.  LOL

I can go over 850 miles on a tank so 600 miles is about 2/3 of a tank. Normally I don’t go that far but I can. I have a bathroom on board so I can pee anytime and I just had prostate surgery so I’m sure I will stop more often for a while. I pull a Jeep so I guess if I run out of fuel I can go get more but haven’t needed to yet. We only run generator in Texas, once we get to the cooler states we don’t run genny much.   I blew my engine last year luckily I had just topped off leaving Albequeqe NM. I waited 30 hours on tow truck and generator did fine. 

I don’t trust the gauge. My gauge stopped working after 100 miles on our last trip so I started figuring mileage. I found out I’m getting around 5.7 mpg and with my 150 gallon tank I start looking for a truck stop at 600 miles. That gives my a 250 mile buffer. 
It’s easy. I just save my mileage at the start and every fill up on my phone and carry on. 

I have a 2005 Dynasty with a 150 Gallon tank. I would never go below 1/4 tank. On our last trip my fuel gauge crapped out the first night so I started counting mileage and figured I can travel 825-900 miles on a full tank so I started stopping every 500 miles to be safe and could go to 600 miles if needed before fill up. That’s 8-10 hrs of driving and I’m ready to stretch my legs by then anyway. We drive a lot from North Texas to Western Colorado.  

The Ugly Fix™ for Detroit 2003-2007 https://a.co/d/6A6g5MN

???

I’ve had this happen every 3-5 in the past 15 years   If that computer is 10 years old it’s time for a new one. That operating system is out dated and too slow to run todays programs. Heck a 5 year old computer to old nowadays. Good luck. 

Toyo M144 all the way around 295/80R22.5

1 hour ago, JDCrow said:

So I have the same light set up on my Dip. I bought some lenses off eBay and upgraded to LED bulbs. They worked great, until the lenses broke. 
 

I’m going to upgrade, again, to a built in LED. I’ll have to wire so the two halve work as 1 unit. He’s what I have, and what I’m replacing it with  and a video of same brand, different company

https://goodspeedusa.com/product/pair-sequential-led-tail-lights-w-trim-for-1973-1987-chevrolet-gmc-pickup-truck/

 

 

I’ve thinking about upgrading to these as well. I haven’t seen anything better so far. 

Mine is doing something similar. When hook to city water it won’t fill tank or run inside at faucets.