IEMan 1

96 EVO - That pump's hose goes up right next to the other on for the registers. How would I know if it's the stir pump? And no leaking anywhere now. WooHoo!

Jdw12345 - How do I check the AMP draw for the Aqua-Hot on the Alladin? I also figured that the diesel should at least fire up even if the heating element went bad by running with no boiler fluid. How do I test the main controller?

Here's my update. This is a project that is so crazy. I do greatly appreciate everyone's help on this though.

I replaced the drain tube with brass and added a valve with barbed fitting so I can drain/fill the boiler. It took about 15 gallons total so I'm guessing it was pretty much empty. I had to replace the radiator cap also as it was leaking. 

When I put power back on, the Heating Status light is on, Diesel Burner Status Light is on, and Pump #2 light is on and the pump is running.

I unplugged the pump itself so it isn't running constantly.

I have no hot water at all after the electric heating button is turned on for a couple of hours.

When I turn on the Diesel Heat button Not even the motor runs much less the burner firing up.

I have correct voltage at the relays in the thermostat cover just fine.

When I checked for voltage on the power line to the Electronic Controller it jumps all over with no rhyme or reason not getting an actual reading.

The water is not hot at all other than being in 110 degrees in Texas. I have continuity on what I believe is the VDC High-Limit Thermostat and the Control Thermostat. No continuity at the VAC High-Limit Thermostat other than a slight beep every 2-3 seconds. 

I have not checked the Heating Element at all as the Electronic Heating Element Status light comes on when I turn it on.

Does this make sense to any of you what I should check next? 

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you

Hello all,

I wanted to give an update on my Aqua-Hot issue. I replaced the Control Thermostat, started to add boiler fluid into the tank and it started coming out the yellow tube on the bottom. It looks like that is the "drain tube". It was very lose and just comes straight out easily when pulled. It looks like it has a PEX sharkbite fitting that has gone bad. On Roger Berke's website it states that the drain fitting needs replaced and is a common problem. He had more info as a link to it on his website, but looks like the website is down. None of the links on the website work. https://rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/AHE-100-04S.htm

Does anyone have any info on replacing the drain valve  fitting?

Thank you all so much.

Thank you, I will order a new control thermostat. Do you know if there are any good videos on best way to drain/replace the boiler fluid?

Thank you all so much.

I do not see any leaks at filler neck/cap area or lines.

Just wondering, when I filled the boiler fluid 3 weeks ago via the filler neck, about 3-4 ounces spilled out as there is a very tight spot to fill from. Is it possible that the spillage could have created the steam/smoke I am now seeing? It "looks" like the steam/smoke is coming from that yellow tube on the back bottom area. Is that an overflow tube? Could I have overfilled also? I'm grasping at different things here. I did not notice any smoke/steam before I started troubleshooting.

The Burner did stay on longer after jumping the control thermostat wires which would indicate the control thermostat is bad, correct?

Ok, I jumped the leads and the burner fired up. After about 4-5 minutes it started steaming/smoking quite a bit. Not sure if the video will show on here. The steam I believe is coming from the yellow tube in the bottom back and smells very strongly of boiler fluid. I shut off the burner after about 6 minutes but I'm sure the steam shouldn't be there and the smell also.

Any thoughts?

3 hours ago, David Pratt said:

Disconnect the connectors going to the Control Thermostat and connect the ones from Aqua hot together, not the connectors going to the the control thermostat, leave those disconnected.

When you restart the unit and if it does not shut off and continues to run past the 4 minutes, then YES you have a bad control thermostat..

If I jump these wires and it keeps running, will it shut off by the other thermostats or how long do I want to make sure that it does NOT run? 

1 hour ago, David Pratt said:

Disconnect the connectors going to the Control Thermostat and connect the ones from Aqua hot together, not the connectors going to the the control thermostat, leave those disconnected.

When you restart the unit and if it does not shut off and continues to run past the 4 minutes, then YES you have a bad control thermostat..

If I jump these wires and it keeps running, will it shut off by the other thermostats or how long do I want to make sure that it does NOT run? 

Hi all, Ok, I am back able to look at my coach's AquaHot again. I started from scratch now.

Tank is full of boiler fluid.

When not all the way hot water, (It's 103 degrees outside) both thermostats have continuity and the control thermostat also has continuity.

With diesel switch on, the burner fires up for about 4 minutes and shuts off.

At that point both thermostats still have continuity but the control thermostat does not.

Am I correct that the control thermostat is bad and just shutting off the burner before it should? And needs replaced?

I truly appreciate all of your help on this issue.

Thanks,

Dave

I watched inside as it ran for about 3-4 minutes this time before shutting itself off. There was smoke coming from and around the yellow tube in the picture on the bottom. Smells a little like maybe some boiler fluid. Not able to see exactly.

I just checked it when cold. All 3 have continuity.

Do I jump the spade connectors on the control thermostat side or the other 2 wires?

Just to give an update.

I checked the continuity on the 2 high limit switches when cold. there is continuity.

I checked the continuity on the spade connectors on the control thermostat and NO continuity. Does that test it or do I have to jump those 2 spade connectors together to see if it keeps running?

Hi, I do not see any temperature switches from the bay. Are they inside the unit itself? I can't find mention of them in the owner's manual or the shop manual either. How do I go about finding the switches? Or, even find out if they are on my model? 

Another thing I can mention is there are no red lights on the front panel either. I really hope y'all can help me out. I greatly appreciate this site.

Hello, Boiler fluid is full, I check it weekly. As far as incoming water temp,, this has been this way now for the last 3 RV Parks shore water and it's the same at all of them. We have been in the RV for the last 3 months and this just started happening. It has been working great before.

Our Aqua-Hot 100-04S stopped making very much hot water. We usually keep the electric on and have plenty of hot water for dishes and showers. Turn on the Diesel if we want a long shower or multiple showers. Now all of the sudden we have enough hot water for about 2 minutes and then cold. If we turn on the Diesel, it fires up the burner just fine but just for about 3-4 minutes and then shuts off. The switch lights remain lit. It will re-heat again but just a small amount of hot water. It's as if we now have a 1/2 gallon hot water heater.

Any suggestions?

Both the Volts and Turbo Boost Gauges are completely fogged up.

I am not able to locate or cross reference a replacement for them.

Any ideas?

2006 Monaco Dynasty IV

Hi Again, I do have the HWH leveling system. 

When the tag should go up, nothing happens. No air dump, no movement, no light on the switch and no audible alarm. 

My leveling system works as it is supposed to.

What interior house power must be on? The inverter?

Thanks,

Dave

Travelling across the country.  My tag axle switch stopped working. It was working fine when I slowed down, the light would come on the switch and the tag would raise. All of the sudden the light does not come on when it should and tag not raising. 

Does anyone have any ideas what I should check 1st? Hopefully an easy fix while travelling.

5 hours ago, Paul A. said:

Is a Manual for that slide on the web? Or maybe on the HWH site?

Hi Paul,

All I was able to find was a 1 page PDF of the mechanism itself.

HWH Kitchen Slide AP27707.pdf

4 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Dave - Your coach has 4 slides like mine.  Which slide is the problem?  From the picture, yes the attachment bolts pulled out but I'm having a hard time from the pictures trying to figure out which slide is the problem.  I looked at our files but unfortunately, your model number AP27707 doesn't show up as a specific reference.  Here is a link to the HWH slide information documents we have in the file downloads.

 

Thanks Frank.

It is the sofa-kitchen, front passenger slide.

22 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Follow Frank’s lead.  While I have a Lippert, and it is hydraulic, I’ve had a “similar” event.  Mine not, seemingly, as bad as the slide bracket coming loose, but it ripped off my umbilical bracket and warped, until I had it “unwarned” the lower edge of the outside slide frame. 

I called the senior tech at my HR dealer whom did all the first visit warranty work.  He gave me a plan.  First. Do No Harm.  If you figure out how, probably, to extend the slide, you CAN get “2 men & a boy” to pull on the damaged side to get it out….but you bump and go slow to keep it “square” or both ends coming out normally as not get it “crooked” or in a bind.  I have done that several times on my big slide when the hydraulic motor was failing, but we had to keep traveling to meet some family schedules…so it works.  Just don’t let the good side get ahead.  The slide, if there was no hydraulic pressure or “fluid resistance” can be pulled or pushed in by a few strong folks.

Then, the next issue is to release the hydraulic pressure so you can realign the mating parts and reattach and/or do a good repair.

His sage advice.  Monaco sometimes “goofed” on cutout or clearances.  My issue was the lower “shield” under the slide.  The clearance cutout was off or the umbilical bracket was in the wrong place.  It was obvious when I started my repair and I moved it and also did some more clearance work.  He told me to identify the clearance issue and to be “generous, not stupid and do whatever it took to get GOOD clearance.

Once you get the bracket reattached or even now, make sure it was a fastener failure and not a “needs a little work” too close clearance.

Wish I was of more help, but that is what the expert told me and coached me.  Good Luck.

Thanks Tom

While bringing the slide in we heard loud noise and 1 side of the slide stayed out about 6".

Looking behind the slide panel I noticed that a bracket had the screws popped out and the bracket was not against the slide and about 2-3" below where the screw holes are on the slide. The bracket is not loose where I can just move it and screw it back in. What is the best way to get the bracket back up so I can screw it back in?

I appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Dave

Not to take over this post by any means. But would anyone know why my 2006 Dynasty brake lights NOT work at all when pedal is pushed but DO work for engine brake? The turn signals and 4-ways work fine. I have checked 2 fuses that I found, a relay in the back panel and both pressure switches up front.

Thank you,

Dave

Hello, I've got a 2006 Dynasty. Just noticed that the brake lights are not working at all. The running lights, turn signals & 4-ways work good. Checked the in the upfront bay, fuse and relay in engine comartment both good. There is power at the air pressure switch when brake pedal is pressed up front also. Anyone know what I am missing?

Hello, It does have the multiplex in the closet.

Do you think it has to do with the DIP switches on the multiplex modules?

All of the lights in the bathroom and the toilet room only stay on 1 to 3 minutes and then shut off. It is definitely annoying especially if you're taking a shower and the lights go out. We just got this coach last week and trying to figure out how everything works. Are these lights made to do that? and if so, is there a way to adjust the time?

Thanks,

Dave (In the Dark)