BlueCastleRV

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Sweet looking rig. This site and IRV2 are your best resources.

My 4 year old calls ours the BlueCastle.

Cheers!

Thanks for everyone’s input. Based on everything in this thread I’m inclined to not install EasyStarts on 19 YO AC’s. I already have a Hugh’s Autoformer for suspect electrical sources. I’ll put the $700 I would’ve spent towards the AC fund. 

Hi folks,

Air conditioners are working well. Does the group here advise installation for prolonging their life Or waste of money? Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Mike

I wanted to wrap up this thread by saying thanks to everyone at TalinRV, Great job with the guardian plates and first class all around. We were in and back on the road in a couple days.

On 7/4/2022 at 5:56 AM, throgmartin said:

Hi Mike:

I am a little late on this topic and for that I apologize. I looked over your pictures carefully and can tell you that the good news is you have no rot - yet. Unfortunately you will need Guardian Plates to correct the problem.

So you can better understand the problem and so others can maybe learn as well let me explain - your floor is called a flush floor. In other words it runs on an internal glide bar. There are no rollers. I have seen this type of damage hundreds of times and it is normally caused by a loosening of the laminate on the edges. One has to remember that on a flush floor the vast amount of weight and forces are applied at the edges of the slide during operation. This is why some Monaco's have a glide bar in addition to what are called corner blocks. These blocks are thick and stout and are 5 to 6 inches wide and are mounted to the floor of the bus at the corners.

The fix is an easy one - install Guardian Plates. Luckily you caught it early. I have seen it where the laminate has ripped inward by 24 inches and at that point the fix requires custom made plates ( much wider ) which are a PITA to install. My advice is to use a razor knife and trim the loose laminate off. Do NOT use glue or tape or you will create an absolute mess. Remember the bottom of the floor rides on a plastic glide bar and whatever you apply to the laminate will get wiped off the very first time you run the slide in and will get stuck on the glide bar creating a hell of a mess. Trust me when I say owners who applied tape, adhesive or whatever to the damaged areas of laminate on a flush floor slide have cost themselves a lot of extra time, money and headaches. It all gets ate up by the glide bar. If your coach is sitting in our service lot you are going to be paying one of my techs a lot of labor time to clean the gunk from that glide bar completely before installing guardian plates. I have done numerous slides like that and it takes time and effort because the glide bar is NOT in an easily accessed area. Never apply anything like tape or adhesive to the bottom of a flush floor slide.

Give my VP, Bethany, a call on Wednesday ( I closed the office and shop on Tuesday so my staff could have a long holiday weekend ). Her number is 352-942-2653. She knows the Guardian Plate system inside and out. Make sure you tell her I have already assisted you here on the forum. She can get your plates into production and ready for shipment. If you have any other questions let her or myself know. We can also assist you via phone and facettme during the installation process in the event you run into a problem. I also encourage you to watch my buddy Mike Z's youtube install videos. He made those for me and does a great job explaining the install procedures.

Just to make you feel better, here are some photos of slides I myself have plated. Obviously the owner never seen the damage as few owners ever inspect and look for this under their slides. I was able to fix all of them with the Guardian Plate system.

 

Thanks Chris! I spoke with Bethany this morning and we’ll be coming to see you on July 20th for installation. I very much appreciate your personal response here and look forward to the upgrade!

A big thanks to everyone on the forum who took the time. These are great rigs and let’s keep them that way!

Happy 4th of July!

Mike

5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

We actually agree.  As to your first comment about "whatever ripped it...".  I THINK, based on my slide issue in the bedroom, that water got in and then the slide sort of settled. The water damage is, HOPEFULLY, on that lower panel. Once it is stopped, then it should be OK.  When my bedroom slide bounced and came back down hard on the roller, it was a small dent. THEN, as time went on, the strain on that lower panel started to stress it and it propogated a line crack or a split....same as Mike's. The more you used it....the longer it got.  If I am correct that it was water and there is NO structural or roller interference....then, Mike would be good to go with the Guardian plate. 

The Gorilla Tape will seal the vertical sides. BUT...EternaBond (been there) is a PITA to remove. He would run the risk of damaging the paint above where the Guardian plates would go or cover.  I drove 2400 miles with a shattered side glass and 2 or 3 thicknesses of Gorilla Tape holding it together....it will last if he goes back home to California. 

I agree that a thin kick plate would be a temporary fix. BUT, it needs to be put on TEMPORARILY and not slide or cause roller damage. That means it has to go UNDER the slide and on top of the roller. The slide has to be jacked up....otherwise you run the risk of the plate damaging the roller and that exacerbates the issue. SO...  that is REALLY not an option. 

Jack up the slide. Find a plate that will work. Put it in. OPPS...it is NOT attached, unless you glue it to the underside....and THAT is an issue. When you install the Guardian plates, you put adhesive on the front area, past where the roller stops so it bonds to the bottom. I did mine a little heavy and I could use a screwdriver to clean it up from the inside...and it squishes out...when you lower the slide. The kick plate was meant to be a permanent fix and needs to be glued in....then you have to pull it out and NOT damage the underside. My slide had rivets and a plastic glide plate from Monaco and those had to be cut off....from the outside....with the jacks up...to get the area clean....a BIG PITA.

So, my opinion....stay away from the kick plates as a temporary fix as you might do more harm that good...unless the kick plates are installed and resting on the rollers and extend an inch or so out, then running UP and OVER the roller could damage the roller.  Two thicknesses of Original Gorilla Tape, as far in as he can get it, will keep the underlayment from splitting any further. If the Gorilla tape DID not hold up, then He MIGHT have to use EternaBond Tape...but I think it will last until he gets home... We BOTH agree that the pieces of the board need to be "patched" to prevent them from tearing up. The issue with the EternaBond would be getting it back off without tearing off the underlayment....

Mike, if you are not familiar with EternalBond, it is the heavier, thicker tape used to seal the TOP of the slide to the front edge of the slide. Look at yours. When folks put on new awning or slide toppers, they USUALLY peel off this tape.  There is a special solvent and you have to use a putty knife...  Chris will have to chime in...but if the plate,  practically speaking, WILL cover the existing split.  I blew up the photo and the roller, assuming it near the side will easily cover the long split and the pieces will be glued or adhered to the underside.  

Ray, Just my thoughts....and we each have our own level or comfort or how we would do things, initially.......and as I read and listen to others, mine often changes.... If the split is strictly water damage to the underlayment....and then the stress and cracking and propogation thereof....then stopping the stress with two thicknesses of Gorilla Tape and/or reinforcing it maybe once on his way back should work. I think, and it is MY assumption and opinion, that two thicknesses of Gorilla tape will NOT damage the roller. It will hold the underside together....and prevent more splitting.

Chris will have to weigh in. He has the most knowledge....and can also "predict" things. If he says....FIX IT NOW... then SO BE IT.  Now, the other OPTION....Put in that slide and don't extend it until you get home or until you get to a shop that knows how to install Chris' plates.  A little draconian....but you might save some $$ and also prevent further damage. Slide issues are nothing to underestimate.

I put in a set of plates on a plastic roller slide. Never THOUGHT there would be any issues. Ordinarily there aren't. This was the wardrobe slide...Monaco never intended for the slide to go higher than how they set it. There is a piece of crown molding or plate on the slide. When the slide goes in, this wooden trim goes UNDER the wooden frame of the wall. OPPS, Monaco did not allow sufficient clearance.  The dealer had to take it down and cut off a a smidge on a table saw. He left a small gap....that was OK. BUT, it was too narrow for the thickness and adhesive of the Guardian plates....from the middle to the right side. There was a MOAN and an occasional POP.  I had cycled the slide and we packed for a 3 month trip.  Driveway is sloping....wrote off the noise to the leveling issue.  NOPE.  IN AR, I investigated. Spent half a day with the tools and I had removing wood....and waxing the two mating surfaces. OK....later on, I was doing an inspection and found that the lower cable on the right side...behind the slide flange, was frayed. The fraying probably happened with it was in the original strain...  Had to have the whole wall removed and the shop (the only ONE tech I trust in the CW Colfax store) replaced the cable and also recut the crown molding to work. Mine was an ODD BALL.  Mike, typically, there is scads of room or play on the big slides and you have an adjustment on the roller height....  My plastic rollers were fixed....  I would NOT worry about moving the slide up, vertically, a fraction of an inch....even with the thickness of the adhesive.

Just my ramblings.....

 

)

Good news is I’m here just south of Charlotte until early November and have time to do it right and not under duress. I’m definitely going to tape it temporarily until I get a hold of Chris, ensure my slide outs are measured correctly and have removed whatever could have created the damage (if it was something my toddler hid for dadda😐 lol). There’s a lot of info above that I’m grateful for. I think I can do the work I f I take my time and follow the directions from Talin and heed the good advice here.  I’ve watched their videos and have the measurement sheets. These are great rigs and I don’t mind getting it squared away before any real damage occurs. I’ll keep everyone posted as I get the plates ordered and acquire the tools. Happy Independence Day! 

 

11 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Comments from one that has done a few...but Chris rules. I'd go ahead and make up my T jacks. Take three  2X4 and figure out the length based on the jacks you use. Bottle Jacks with a screw adjustment on the top is great. Then laminate the posts with deck screws. Cut a 30" or so, maybe shorter based on the length of the slide....I would cut it about 6" shorter than where the skirt or seal is to the edge of the aluminum frame underneath. Screw that to the top of the post. Don't go crazy and do a 2 X 8 and then add side braces....  2 or 3 men, if a full size living slide, can lift and move a slide.

You can then use 2 T posts and  jack up each side.....maybe 1/8" each side. 3/4" will be a gracious plenty. Get a high powered LED and pull back the skirt and spin and examine the roller. Hopefully it is FINE....just the usual wear. Lubricate it and make sure it is free. Do BOTH sides of course.

OK....patching the thin bottom of the slide. FORGET IT. there is nothing to patch to as it foam on the other side....if like mine. Chris will supply the adhesive and also a caulking sealer. You want to make sure (Dry Fit) that the plate fits. If it is the drop down, he will cut it exactly. I did have to use a side grinder with a small, thin cutoff wheel and do a little notching and fitting. Once you get it dry fitted, then you can mark the area to be covered with a Sharpie. You want to use very thin beads of the adhesive (3M) and then spread it out. It is NOT necessary to have it 100% coated. Put a little adhesive on the tears splits of the bottom. Then spread out with a putty knife. You want a thin layer over the loose pieces and about an inch beyond. One you put the plate in place and seat it and then put the third one. That will hold the plate in place....and you drill your holes and put in the Pop Rivets. I ordered a 13" Heavy Duty tool from Amazon. Chris uses a pneumatic tool. You will tear up a pliers type of Pop Riveter as these are 3/16" SS and they require a bit of force....but the HOLD.  After pop riveting, you can let down the slide and let the side compress the adhesive. I used a T post to push up the center of each plate to keep the adhesive from expanding.

Just a matter of taking your time. The side prep is the worst...and Chris knows how to tell you how to do that. I came up with a way that works for me....much easier than grinding it all out...

Let me ask, in case of over analysis leads to paralysis on my end, any recommendations for service centers around the Charlotte, NC area? We’re currently staying with friends (traveling for the summer)and while I can acquire the tools, jacks, rivet gun, I can see the benefit of going with experienced installers.

Let me know if any recommendations as a backup.

 Thanks!

Mike 

9 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Make sure you have a LOT of photos and measurements on the size of the damage and such. Chris has them made up custom. I have not seen your type of damage....but he probably has.  Mine was where the bottom underlayment had deteriorated. That bottom underlayment is a sandwich "board". The bottom piece is a thin, maybe 3/16", piece of "laminate" or think plywood. There is a thin, very thin....plastic layer or laminate coating on the bottom. Then the floor is actually made up of "studs" or probably, more correctly, perlines. These pieces are spaced out in the floor (the floor of the slide). Think a maze or perhaps mortar joints. The number and pattern vary based on the design and the stuff to be supported or attached (sofas and seatbelts). Then there is a top layer or the floor that you see...which is typically covered by carpet. 

The three pieces . Underlayment, Perlines or inner support and the top layer are vacuum filled with foam and the whole affair is a sandwich.

Sometimes there will be damage to the underlayment. I HAD THAT. Hit a bump or maybe curbed a tire with the slide RETRACTED. Somehow that bounce "broke" or fractured the bottom underlayment. Then after repeated use, the indent or the recess grew. It finally stabilized. I drilled and explored, with Chris' input and another Ex Monaco "supervisor" in Elkhart. Their conclusion. Structurally, the floor was FINE. BUT, repeated cycling of the slide would only worsen the recess or the shallow area in the underlayment. I designed, with Chris' help a floor plate with also a turned up edge....ala the Guardian Plate.  I then installed it so that the total underlayment ran on the Guardian plate....thus, my two rollers on the rear bed slide worked or run on the SS plates. They are GLUED IN...I also learned a LOT about sealants and expansion of joints being glued. I did all the prep work and I ordered, just to be safe in the future and also have the slide level, the OTHER Guardian plate....it was the measurement for my rollers and their proximity to the side or the corner.  SO....did all the dirty work with a grinder and sand paper and dremel tool.  Body puttied the indent so that it was smooth and level. Then glued and pop riveted the plates in place. The slide was jacked up 3/4" using TWO T Post jacks. After Installation of both plates, I carefully lowered the jacks and then repositioned them UNDER the plates. Then jacked them up maybe 1/4" just to get the plates off the rollers (you have to jack up the slide so you can slide the plates INSIDE and UNDER the rollers...so that the rollers always run ON the plates.  I left the jacks in place for 24 hours. The glue or sealant will "expand"....ever so slightly....but if you leave it in a compressed state....it cures and you have the PERFECT bond. Loctite tech support told me this.

Bottom line....that fixed that one. The front slide, similar to you, started to abrade and wear and streak on the underlayment. My sides are fiberglass and I did not see any damage....which is the weak area that gets water and breaks.  Chris designed the plates to fix this.

Your's looks a little different....so Chris needs to consult.  He has probably seen worse. He will give you guidance as to whether to do anything on the other side. Typically, you do NOT. I started to dig into the deep recess on my bed slide and the advice was...LEAVE IT ALONE....

Have fun. It is not that bad of a job. When a 74 YO man and a non handy 73 YO woman can do it and it turns out great....it ain't rocket science...

I have a feeling 1 of 2 things happened. Either something got under the slide (not unthinkable we have a year old) or I extended the slide when the coach was too far out of level. Either way I can’t find the the culprit if something is underneath by the roller. I think the guardian plates are in order after patching the laminate. Seems like cheap insurance against floor rot.

Mike

28 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Make sure you have a LOT of photos and measurements on the size of the damage and such. Chris has them made up custom. I have not seen your type of damage....but he probably has.  Mine was where the bottom underlayment had deteriorated. That bottom underlayment is a sandwich "board". The bottom piece is a thin, maybe 3/16", piece of "laminate" or think plywood. There is a thin, very thin....plastic layer or laminate coating on the bottom. Then the floor is actually made up of "studs" or probably, more correctly, perlines. These pieces are spaced out in the floor (the floor of the slide). Think a maze or perhaps mortar joints. The number and pattern vary based on the design and the stuff to be supported or attached (sofas and seatbelts). Then there is a top layer or the floor that you see...which is typically covered by carpet. 

The three pieces . Underlayment, Perlines or inner support and the top layer are vacuum filled with foam and the whole affair is a sandwich.

Sometimes there will be damage to the underlayment. I HAD THAT. Hit a bump or maybe curbed a tire with the slide RETRACTED. Somehow that bounce "broke" or fractured the bottom underlayment. Then after repeated use, the indent or the recess grew. It finally stabilized. I drilled and explored, with Chris' input and another Ex Monaco "supervisor" in Elkhart. Their conclusion. Structurally, the floor was FINE. BUT, repeated cycling of the slide would only worsen the recess or the shallow area in the underlayment. I designed, with Chris' help a floor plate with also a turned up edge....ala the Guardian Plate.  I then installed it so that the total underlayment ran on the Guardian plate....thus, my two rollers on the rear bed slide worked or run on the SS plates. They are GLUED IN...I also learned a LOT about sealants and expansion of joints being glued. I did all the prep work and I ordered, just to be safe in the future and also have the slide level, the OTHER Guardian plate....it was the measurement for my rollers and their proximity to the side or the corner.  SO....did all the dirty work with a grinder and sand paper and dremel tool.  Body puttied the indent so that it was smooth and level. Then glued and pop riveted the plates in place. The slide was jacked up 3/4" using TWO T Post jacks. After Installation of both plates, I carefully lowered the jacks and then repositioned them UNDER the plates. Then jacked them up maybe 1/4" just to get the plates off the rollers (you have to jack up the slide so you can slide the plates INSIDE and UNDER the rollers...so that the rollers always run ON the plates.  I left the jacks in place for 24 hours. The glue or sealant will "expand"....ever so slightly....but if you leave it in a compressed state....it cures and you have the PERFECT bond. Loctite tech support told me this.

Bottom line....that fixed that one. The front slide, similar to you, started to abrade and wear and streak on the underlayment. My sides are fiberglass and I did not see any damage....which is the weak area that gets water and breaks.  Chris designed the plates to fix this.

Your's looks a little different....so Chris needs to consult.  He has probably seen worse. He will give you guidance as to whether to do anything on the other side. Typically, you do NOT. I started to dig into the deep recess on my bed slide and the advice was...LEAVE IT ALONE....

Have fun. It is not that bad of a job. When a 74 YO man and a non handy 73 YO woman can do it and it turns out great....it ain't rocket science...

Thanks for the advice and your experience. I’ll reach out to Chris (I assume he’s at Talin Manufacturing?). I have the measurement sheets but I’ll send over some pictures to get his advice. 
 

Happy 4th to you and the Wife!

Mike

13 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK....you are a candidate for Chris Throgmartin's Guardian Plates. 

http://talinman.com/guardianplates/

If you google Guardian Plates you will get a lot of hits. There is a video. I have, as I said, installed three sets.  That was a pair on the Main Front large Slide (which I think is your issue) and the Rear Bedroom (electric motor one) and the other Rear Slide - the short or the wardrobe slide....so I am not a professional installer....but I have had my fun at cutting out the fiberglass and then lifting or jacking up the slides, fitting them, predrilling and god only knows what....and mine work great.  I did have an issue on the rear wardrobe where there are 4 or so plastic rollers and not two big rollers. The interior crown molding did not have sufficient clearance and the slide was in a bind and eventually frayed a cable. My FAULT for not checking. But it is fixed. The ones like you have or will need will go onto the main rollers.

They work great.  If you have the Drop Down slide, which I THINK you may, then you will need to get Chris some precise measurements. That's it.

This is the ONLY way to fix them. He provides good instructions. I can PM or talk to your offline if you need help or his techs will do that.

Good Luck. Chris is one of our good guys....

Tom,

I very much appreciate the advice. I’ve checked out the guardian plates and thought I could avoid as none of the beads have been broken on the slides but we’re out in South Carolina for the summer and the rain, humidity is quite a bit heavier than San Diego where I purchased the coach. 
 

I’ll get the measurements together and order them from Talin. Once again, thank you for taking the time. I’ll follow up with a post after installation or if my YouTube mechanic skills start to fail me.

Happy 4th everyone!

Mike, Erin and Ava

It’s the front left drivers slide, corner closest to the drivers seat. Almost looks like it flexed when leveling and dug into the slide. More pics:

Hi Monacoers,

I noticed some damage today and wanted this forums opinion on cause and how to go about fixing. I don’t think there is a leak but perhaps the slide extended when we weren’t level enough. Here’s a pic: as always I very much appreciate the folks here that have helped me in the past and will pay it forward.

Flooret.com is the best stuff I’ve seen. I put it in our house. Much better than the life proof stuff at the big box store.

Thanks Everyone! I’m pretty sure it’s going to work. I’ll reply with the before and after when the fridge gets installed Thursday.

Not sure if you can tell but it looks like the Frigidaire will stick out a bit. I’ll let you know how it goes. Is it a non factor due to floor plan?

 Thanks  

On 4/17/2022 at 4:15 AM, pulsarjab said:

The model I installed is FFHT1425VB. It works great.

 

I would have preferred French doors with water and ice in the door, but could not find one small enough to fit without modifications. In addition, the fridge is in the hallway so protruding door handles was not a good idea. Installed, I ended up with about six inches to spare on the side and top which was easy to block off with 1/2 inch plywood painted black. I may do something different, with that space, but for now, just enjoying the RV.  

How was the depth on your FFHT1425VB install? I have an ‘04 Diplomat and am looking at installing this same fridge.

 Thanks!

I’m was planning on taking the 8 to 10 to make a pit stop in Livingston, TX at the escapees RV resort. We’ll be domiciling in Texas and have to take care of the paperwork on the way to vacation in South Carolina. I’ll take a second look at the map.

Thanks for everyone chiming in! Great advice and will be heeded. I’ll start another thread about the actual trip when we depart and add anything we learned for the next newbies.

12 minutes ago, SigPIlot said:

Don't know what the 333 rule is, however, we brought a car from FL to CA on a U-Haul (that's a whole other story!) Last thing I wanted to do was unhook anything. Left coach at ride height and all was good. We do the same with the toad if space is a pull through and long enough. Never had an issue.

Thanks for the quick reply! The 3-3-3 rule for I’m told is 300 miles per day for 3 days and then rest for a couple of days and always try to arrive by 3pm.  

Hi Monacoers,

We are taking our first long trip using a tow dolly from California to South Carolina. We’ll be using the 3-3-3 rule and my question is: When only staying overnight, do you unload and unhook your tow dolly before dropping air, slides and jacks, or do you leave your dolly and toad hooked up? We’re driving a 2004 Diplomat towing a 2014 accord coupe with a Stehl tow dolly. Thanks in advance, we really appreciate this site and community. It’s invaluable for Monaco owners and of course happy early Mother’s Day to all the moms.

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone 😊

2004 Monaco Diplomat 38PST