DoubleL

No seam down the middle. Just got some photos. No aluminum up there. The white feels like Filon. Doesn't your aluminum roof go over the side down to the beltline trim? That grey on the side of my roof is fiberglass not aluminum and painted the original color of the coach. Yes I know it needs washing. Waiting on my shed to be put up.

Hi Guys,

I have a 2005 Knight and have to repair some roof issues. upon looking at the brochure for that year it says I am supposed to have a peaked aluminum roof but mine is not aluminum but looks like Filon sheet and has a seam down each side attached with screws. I don't have any photos with me but was wondering if anyone else has any photos of their 2005 knight they could share to see if they are the same. I will try and remember to get some photos when I get back home this weekend.

Probably up in the bay at the drivers front. Most likely place I would think

This is what I am going to put in mine. Same thing I used in the engine.

Hey guys,

I have a question about slideouts. My Drivers Rear slideout is too low on one side by a 1/4".  I have a gap at the top seal but for about 8 or 10" from the side. I tried adjusting it today at the slide mechanism bracket and it will raise that side but not enough and it throws the slide trim out of whack with the coach rub rail. It is a raised floor slide and they put a roller on the far right side and about a third of the way from the left side instead of placing it on the left. Tried adjusting the roller on the left but it is so far to the right that it just bows the slide floor. And to what I think the problem is - I noticed that the rail on the slideout mechanism on the left is sitting down onto the side of the coach and the right one is up a 1/4". See the photos Attached. I cannot figure out why it is like this. Does anyone know who the manufacturer of this slide mechanism is (see photo)?

Any insight would be appreciated. I can get more photos those where just the two I took before heading inside for the evening.

Nope was a direct fit. just turn of the water and power to the ice maker first. Took a couple of days for mine to start making ice good I guess due to air in the water line but works great now.

Hi guys,

Just passing on my experience replacing my ice maker in my Norcold fridge. I actually found that it is a universal ice maker used in lots of refrigerators. You don't have to spend $145 on one sold "specifically" for Norcold. I ordered mine from Amazon. It is a Supco RIM500. Looks and works identical to the one I took out and it only costs $47.00

Yeah I used phosporic acid on mine. Then I coated with two part urethane paint that I had left over from another project. See the pho. tos. They are out of order finished is first, the rust then after acid. I also used epoxy to seal the corners where the acid could seep down between the frame.

Yep I saw those but have you tried to move one of those washers much less pick them up over that lip. Those things weigh a ton. With only space for me in that area to lift it.

I said I had one of those square ones but it didn't fit our washer. Even so it would be so tight as there would be no room for water. Washer is 24" wide tray I have is 23 1/2". Only tray available in that size range that I could find. 

As this is only for emergencies, it will run into the holes or off the back and catch enough water to limit any damage. I am hoping it is never used! Actually the floor under the washer is aluminum on top of fiberglass in our coach.

Well started to install the Westland Sales Drain pan today only to find out that the one we have is too narrow. Suppose to be 24"wide but is actually 23 1/2" wide. Also the return window closed on Feb 18th. So upon looking at the area that the washer sits I decided to go a different and cheaper route. Off to Home Depot to buy a water heater drip pan. The area under the washer  on our coach is about 6" deep and 26" wide. a 26" plastic drip pan fits perfect although finding a place to route a drain proved tricky. I actually had to put the drain closer to the middle of the pan in order to clear framework and such underneath the coach but finally worked it out. Added a couple of holes in the plywood that the washer sits on and wallah.

No Problem. I have updated filter  and Belt info as well because the manual is wrong. Will post it this week.

I think it is Gary. I know they both have the same floor plans. It isn't a terrible job to change the hoses. A bit of crawling around underneath. I changed the thermostat as well while I was doing it. 

Hey guys 

I worked out the part numbers for my radiator hoses today. For my 2005 Knight with 8.3L Cummins. Didn't know if they were already listed somewhere or not so here they are

Bottom hose from engine to transmission cooler 
NAPA 7496
Dayco 70921

Bottom trans cooler to pipe going to radiator
NAPA 7905
Dayco 70920

Top radiator pipe to engine
NAPA 7905
Dayco 70920

Straighy piece from top and bottom pipes to radiator

2 1/4"  or 57mm Straight radiator hose

I used 1 ft of  NAPA 637 hose and cut in half.