Rodger

On 12/8/2021 at 12:53 PM, lindsey_27511 said:

I have a 2003 Monaco Windsor with 109k miles. I had the pan hard bar replaced three years ago, can’t remember why or symptoms, and the shocks replaced about 5 years ago. 
I would like to have all the rubber “stuff” replaced in the steering/suspension system as preventative maintenance and would like to have all the parts when I take it to a truck shop for the labor. 
Is it possible for someone to provide me with a parts list? Big TIA

Don

Did anyone ever get back to you on this?  I need some steering linkage components and looking for parts.

9 minutes ago, dereeves said:

So yesterday i was putting the over door awning back up and the left side was hard to get loose. While getting it loose the screw broke which holds the lower arm to the body. The bottom screw was already missing. Anyways, when i was changing the clearance lights out, the marker light above the drivers side rear wheels screws both broke. Those i was able to get a small pipe wrench on the inside part of the screw and turn it out enough to get it with the wrench on the outside. These two screws for the door cover i cannot get to the inside. How do you guys get these out? When the marker light screw broke, i tried drilling it, using broken screw extractors which neither worked. I was simply amazed at how hard the screws in the fiberglass held. In anycase, anyone have any super secret ideas on how to get these out? Thanks in advance.

I ran into the same thing on the over bedroom awning and was able to put screws in beside them and silicone the holes. Not many choices, either drill the screw completely out or index over a new hole. 

10 minutes ago, bonfield said:

I know thiis s a very open ended question but i have a 2004 endevour on a roamaster chassis.The brakes in regular use seem fine until you get to the actual stopping and they will not lockup or slow you down very well and in a hard braking are dangerous.Has anyone any ideas of something that may be common and comes to mind.I am a mechanic and due to health issues am not able to remove the the wheels etc.

I experience somewhat similar performance. I have wondered what pad materials might offer a bit better stopping power. Will monitor this thread to see what others think. 

A quick check to assure the heater valve is the culprit is just pinch off one of the hoses somewhere to stop flow. Luckily I have never had to work on this system, I wonder if they have blend doors like later model autos?

When you hold the prime button for 20 or so seconds and then crank it over does it run ok for a bit?  How much fuel is in the tank?

Has it been serviced or the cooling unit replaced? If so, it’s possible the fluted insert of flue was left out. It helps heat transfer to the cooling unit fluid side. Most likely what is going on. 
 

It will look something like this and will hang from the top of the flue outlet. I have seen them longer than this one, depends on the model. 

Known failures even at low mileage. My vote is change it. Three bolts to remove since you will have the belt off. I went with the Cummins oem pump although I wasn’t as smart as you I changed it on the road after failure. 

11 minutes ago, bonfield said:

2004 holiday rambler endeavor with a bath and a half does it have two black tanks or does it all go into one.Asking for putting chemicals in down the toilets

I have the same layout. Do you have trouble with your shower draining? I can’t seem to get mine to drain no matter how much work I do from above. Can’t figure out how to get to the plumbing to see if it can be taken apart. 

On 4/19/2023 at 9:15 PM, Flyinhy said:

Yes, it works fine. I helped him remove it. 

Dang, I forgot about this post until now. Did he ever sell this? 

Do we know it works?  I am in central AL and mine currently works but always looking for spare stuff. 

I have sort of a similar issue.  Sometimes even with full air pressure, the buzzer/beeper will go off like it has low pressure when I first disengage the air park brake and put it in gear.  It will go off for anywhere from 15 seconds to 5 minutes and eventually will stop.  Other times it will just come on.  What I have found odd is if I disengage the air park brake, let off of the brake pedal and make the beeper go off a couple of times, it won't come on when I put in gear and let out of brake.  It's like sometimes it gets reversed on what engages the alarm.  Sometimes when it is going to mess up it will beep and go off when I push the brake.  But on my last trip I made sure to push the park brake button, let out on brake and even let the coach roll a little, then push the brake, put it in gear, then let out on the pedal and no alarm.  Worked almost every time.  Weird, but something is getting crossed up/confused on what tells it to activate the alarm.

I used them in my old Ford gas burner RV. The trick is just knowing how much to use. It’s a guessing game.

I have always been curious how they work. I went to a vibration analysis school one time and I asked the instructor, who is a well renowned vibration specialist, how they would possibly work. He had never heard of them, but he suspected they worked because automobile designers design the first critical of a suspension to occur at about 30 mph. The phase angle shifts 180 degrees after going through the first critical, which would put “light” side toward the outside of the orbit so to speak. The beads would then find their way there. Interesting anyway. 

Unfortunately, mine come off without me doing anything if I don't latch them.  I assume from the comment yours aren't like mine and just lift off the track.

Thanks Tom, as usual good info.

I have the same or at least similar problem depending on when it occurs for you.  I have not had time to dig into it but my alarm activates when I put it in gear at times.  I have found if I push the brake and release the parking brake and wait 5 seconds or so before putting in gear that it is much less likely to keep wailing away.  May just be coincidental but I don't think so, I think there seems to be some connection to whatever pressure switch activates the buzzer and giving it time to fully trip.  If I don't wait, it will come on and sometimes I have gone 5 or 10 miles down the road before it quits, which luckily up to now it eventually quits.

A buddy of mine printed these for me.

17 minutes ago, Steven P said:

Currently down the road from you in Starkville for the game.  We live in Daphne though.  Those pesky neighbors will get ya every time!

Steven

Well at least you had a good game to attend today, better than last week.

I don't have my flush set up that way, only hook up the flush when I dump.  Must just be missing the leak by when it is happening.

Hail State?  Where are you in Alabama?  I go back and forth from my place in Mississippi to my fiance in Bham area.  We have to find a place soon, I don't think the neighbors like me parking a 40' bus in the street when I am in it at her place!

Thanks for the replies.  The other thing I have thought is maybe it is intermittent on one of the valves leaking by and I am just not catching it.  I may just rebuild everything and see if it fixes it.  Thanks again.

I looked through all 8 viewable pages of the water systems section and I didn't see anyone with my specific issue.  If I leave the pump on a good bit of the time over a weekend the black tank will fill up.  When I first experienced it after purchasing the coach last year I thought oh this should be easy.  I have the model with the middle bathroom and the rear macerator type .  I just figured one of the two had a leaking by water valve.  I can't find any leakage, I mean none.  Where else could water be coming from?  Really has me stumped.

37 minutes ago, olywrestle said:

On the outside of the coach, at the bottom of the windows are small holes/slots that lets inside condensation leak to the outside of the coach. There is plastic covers that go over them to stop wind noise from coming in those holes. The covers break off pretty frequently. 

***they are black, not white. The white one in my picture is one I 3d printed.

Thanks. I have a friend who loves having an excuse to 3D print something. I see above you said you would share the file. I will see if he can print a few for me. 

What exactly are you all talking about? Sorry if I am asking an obvious question. Only owned my coach for a year so have never heard of this. Are these the little pieces in the lower rails of the windows?

Well it says mini breaker, not fuse.  The other possibility is the relay that interrupts power if ignition is on. If you can find the relay you can check pin 87a that power is output to the controller, rules out power supply issue. If no power on 30 then back check to the breaker.

That’s a lot of R134 but it still sounds like you don’t have enough gas in the system. At 95° I would expect over 300 head pressure and the low side in the 40s or 50s, I’d have to look at the chart to be sure. Keep us posted. 

One of the Dodge Cummins forums says they are M8x1.25x22 on a 2004.5 model.  One of the other diesel truck forums says M8x1.25x20.  Torque calculator on Fastenal site says dry torque of 18.8 ft-lbs and 14.1 ft-lbs if lubricated if it is a grade 8.8 and the values are 26.9 dry/20.2 lubricated if a grade 10.9.