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Xracer

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Posts posted by Xracer

  1. First, never charge the high side, in fact don’t even open the valve. The gauge will read with the valve closed. Only charge the low side. When you are done the low side will read around 90 lbs, the high side anywhere between 230lbs to 250lbs, it should blow about 40 degrees below the outside temperature. If you cannot get the charge correct it’s because you put liquid  the high side. If you just let it sit for a day or two in the off position it might possibly balance itself out. Be patient. Remember; liquid only in the low side. I wish you the best. JM

  2. Regarding the mice, you can purchase liquid tape. If you can get to the wires it's much easier than tape. Really check all of the wires closely for continuity, they could have easily chewed through. I have a Corvette that had mice and many chewed wires. I cut and spliced them all, we're talking twenty some wires, everything works now. Wiring back when your coach was made had vegetable based insulation, very tasty to rodents. The pucks are a good idea.

    Just a suggestion, best of luck.

  3. Good morning.

    Still working on the same problem. Found two air tanks in the ceiling of the passenger side compartments. Used dish soap and water in a spray bottle and soaped all of the joints. Wow, looked like a bubble factory! There are several brass swivel 90’s going into the tanks and all were leaking. All but one were fixed by a slight rotation of the swivel fitting, one wouldn’t stop leaking. Found the fitting at NAPA, 1/2”MIP X 5/8” tubing swivel 90. Replaced the 90 all good. Still have leaks but this was a major find.

    Good luck.

  4. Thank you Larry, The coach was manufactured in Oregon according to the build sheet. I inspected the air bags and found the right rear seeping air, they are all in very bad shape so I have no problem replacing them. I did find the auxiliary air compressor located passenger side front next to the generator. Runs fine but can’t do it’s job due to a stuck check valve. I’ll fix that at home and install a battery charger for the engine batteries. Thank you again. JM

  5. 1 hour ago, georgecederholm said:

    I can second what Larry has said. During this timeframe, there seemed to be quite a bit of divergence between Oregon and Indiana in terms of build processes and equipment used. Given that the OP has a Beaver, that (I think) would have been an Oregon build. I think that Oregon used the Lambert charging device on mid-range Oregon coaches in that timeframe, but I’m not sure. The Big Boy design was generally “Dynasty and up”, which would have been the Patriot and up in the Beaver line.

    To the OP, it seems likely to me that your Coach was equipped to charge the chassis batteries on shore power, and just as likely that the charging components may have failed on a Coach of its age. Why do you ask? Are you not seeing a charge? Do you know where your battery isolator gear might be (big electrical box on the right side of the engine compartment or in a curb-side bay toward the rear axle)? You might do a search on older messages here for “Lambert” and “Big Boy” and see some pictures that you might be able to match up to what you have. From there, more advice might be forthcoming.

    The engine batteries charge fine when the engine is running. I have leaking air bags and have to start the coach every couple of days to recharge the air. I’m having all air bags replaced next week. I think I wasn’t running it long enough to charge the batteries. The owners manual says there is an engine battery charger on the curb side in the black/gray tank compartment but I didn’t find one. I’m currently shutting off the disconnect on the engine batteries in case there’s a draw. I’ll install a charger when I get home. Thanks to everyone for your comments 🇺🇸

  6. The only dumb question is the one that was never asked, so here goes. This is our first Monaco, 2005 Beaver Huntington 38’. Question; are the engine batteries charging while we are plugged in to shore power?

    Thank you in advance.

  7. 4 hours ago, rjnontheroad said:

    Dahn

    I have repaired my  Scissor stop on my 2004 Dip several times. In my case it has always been the rivet that has worn and loosened to the extent that the 2 halves of the unit are very loose and catch the door when closing it. I take the unit off by removing the 4 screws on the door frame and drilling out the rivets on the door. Once off it is very easy to knock the loose river out. Then I take the half with the tapered hole to a hardware store and find a flat head, tapered bolt that fits the hole. I use this to make a new rivet by assembling the two sections together then cutting the bolt end to approximately 1/8" - 1/4" beyond the assembled pieces. I hammer that end as flat as possible then grind off the the other tapered side so it is flat with the surface. This method lasts several years and works well for me. Of course you can just buy a new unit for $100+. Just Gopgle it. You might try Veruinks (not sure correct spelling).

    Ricardo - 2004 Diplomat - On the road since 1997

     

     

    2004 Diplomat

    Good idea, thanks!

  8. On 1/13/2022 at 8:43 AM, MHRookie said:

    All, 

         Had to to a temp repair on the road (almost lost exhaust pipe).  Question... how is the exhaust connected to the "black pipe fittings"?  I was not able to crawl under the coach at the time so that's why I'm asking.  I'd like to buy the pieces before preparing coach to get underneath it...  

    From what I can see...

    2003 Monaco Dynasty / Pipe is a rather long 90* run wrapped in heat shield / I can see the black pipe elbow exit the floor of coach but could not see how it's all attached.  The hanger stayed in tact at edge of coach. 

    Definately agree with others'... Monaco could have done better here.

    the pipe is threaded 1 1/2 galvanized mild steel threaded into a 1 1/2" galvanized 90. Then transitions to exhaust tubing. Probably broke at the threads.

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