rcpilot1

They finally got it to do a regen. He told me the DPF was 85% blocked and it took quit awhile to get it done. He said he checked all the sensors and they were ok. I need to dig into the NEDS software and see if I can figure it out. He said (I take this with a grain of salt) that the MIL that popped up is a ghost code. ??? But it did go away after shutting it down and starting it again about 30 minutes later. It has not come back as of yet. Like I said I just need to take some time and hook up the computer and look at any any codes, active or inactive. I'm not reall confident in this guy. So again I will try to get the local International shop to look at it. But they don't like motorhomes but I will give it a try. 

Well the on going story. Took it back to the shop and after it sitting for almost a month they finally got it going. They said the DPF was 85% clogged. After a long regen it is down to 14%. Still a little wierd, We think the lights were on because I did not wait long enough for the engine to warm up before I drove it. It did the same thing when I drove it home. I started it and only waited a couple of minutes and drove it off. Not 100 yards down the road It got the MIL light and the red traingle flashed 3 time then went out. I drove it home and the red light did not come on but the MIL light stayed on. Got home turned it off, went and got the laptop with the NEDs software. Hooked it up. Started the engine and there were no light and not codes to clean. I called them back and they said it is a ghost code, and as long as the red light does not stay on it should be good to go. If the MIL light comes on clear it. It ran good and I had no problem driving it at all. So I guess It keep the NEDs software handy until I run across a good trade in deal, and this one is GONE. Tired of dealing with it to be honest.

I got both the software and hardware and the seller installed the NEDS software and authorized it today. Looks like all is looking good on that front. So thank you very much for all the help. I talked to the shop today and it looks like the air-intake temp sensor. Before they replace it they are going to cliean it and the other sensors first. That way they are not just throughing parts at it. I will keep you informated.

Again Thanks for the help.

Thanks Dan,

I have both on order. I really appreciate the help.

Dave

Thanks Dan,

Do you know where you bought the NEDS software and the connection hardware? It looks like that is what I need. I am also looking at the BlueFire software so I can see more about what is going on as I drive it.

Dave

I ended up taking to my local guy, and hw does have the NEDS software because he works on a lot of this engine that is in farm trucks. They did diagnos a bad sensor in the emissions ayatem and they have it on order. No clue when it would be in. (figures) and they will get back to me when they have installed it and scanned it again.

The big question is. What would be a good scanner for me to have so I can check the engine. So that way I would know whats up and I can reset the code if needed. Would that be something that is afordable. I would rather diagnos it my self then take it to someone that can fix it of fix it myself.

Thanks again for all your help Dan.

Thanks for the reply Dan,

Let me lay out exactly how things went and maybe that will help. I could not find anyone close by to do the oil and filter changes. The local International dealer would not touch it because it is a motorhome. The closes one I could find was over 2 hours away. 

1. So I took it there because they said they do motorhomes. 

2. I brought the oil filter, the big fuel filter, the top fuel filter.

3. They changed the oil and filter and the big fuel filter. 

4. They did not change the top fuel filter because gee we have never done a motorhome like this, and they had no clue how to take the hatch out to change the top fuel filter. So they did NOT change the top fuel filter.

5. It took me most of a day to figure out how to get the two hatches off in the bedroom. So now I know how and will have them ready to take out next time.

6. After the work was done, I started the motorhome and it gave me a MIL light. They came back and hooked up their laptop to it and said oh that was from having low fuel pressure after changing the fuel filter. Seemed reasonable to me and they cleared the code. 

7. The code did not come back on again until after I got home. It came back on as I was parking it.

8. Not being very familiar with this dashboard and the lights I looked it up and I thought it was the DPF filter light. 

9. I found a diesel mechanic locally and took it to them and told them I thought it was the DPF regen. (my mistake)

10. They did a force regen and said it looked good. 

11. A half mile from the shop the light came on again. I took it back. They hooked their laptop to it and he said the DPF was good did not really know why it was on so he cleared the light (thinking it was a DPF error).  All was good, or so it seemed. 

12. The motorhome sat for a month while we were overseas. When I got it out to take it for a drive, I did not get but a 1/4 mile and the light came on again, so back to the house. I did more research and discovered that it was not the DPF light but it was the MIL light. 

13. I just got back from their shop and they said to bring it in and they will do some deep scans and troubleshooting. He agrees it may have a bad sensor or a wiring problem.

So that is where I am now. I will post what they find. I think it is a sensor that was disturbed when they changed the oil. Anyway we will see.

Thanks for the help Dan,

Well I still do not have this fixed. I had a local diesel mech do a forced regen but they still had to use their scanner to turn off this light. It did not come back on on the way home, but just yesterday after sitting for awhile I started it up let it warm up and took her for a drive 100 ft. down the road the light came back on and the red stop sign with the ! mark lit up for about 10 sec. and then went out. The yellow malfunction lndecator lamp came back on and stayed on. could this be a bad sensor. This all started after having the oil and filter, anf fuel filter changed. It never happend before the oil change. Im thinking the guy who did it (oh and it was the first time he had worked on a motorhome) might have messed up the sensor or the wiring. What do you all think. When I first wrote this I thought it was the DPF lamp that was lit but now I see it was a solid bar witch is the MIL indicator. Any idea's?

Thanks for the infomation. Sounds like a good place to start. I am taking it to a local Diesel mechanic that works on most anything. This all started when I had an International dealer change the oil, filter and fuel filter. Then they tell me that they had never worked on a motorhome. It came on when I started it up to leave and they hooked thier laptop to it and reset it. So if he can fix it I will put it up here. I agree I think I am on the right track with your help.

Thanks

I have not started the motorhome for about a month and I went out to start it to take it to the Loves to fill up and the ReGen light on the dash is on. I looked it up and it said it needs to regen. So I drov e it about 40 miles at 65mph and it never went out. I got back home and hooked a scan gage up to it and it said it did not need a regen. It only has about 17,000 miles on it. I tried to do a regen by pushing the regen rocker switch. I would blink while I was holding it but when I let go it blibked a couple of times then stopped. Still no regen. Could I possibly have a sensor that is bad ot whould it be in the dash. Attached is a picture of the dash. 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Dave

what would be the charge rate and cut off on two big golf cart 6V batteries wired as one big 12v battery.  I am using a renogy charge controller and the votage seems high for just charging. Right now it is boiling the battery and the cut off voltage is 15.0 in the charger

Check to batteries and they are fine. The following is an email I got from Lipor.

Good morning Dave,

Thank you for contacting Lippert Customer Customer Care Center.

No this is not a indicator of bad batteries. Your unit does require the engine to be running for the leveling system to operate properly.

Thank you,

Charles
Lippert Customer Care Center Representative

So this is the way it works. So I keep doing the same.

Top of the list. We are getting the rig services and they are going to check the chassis batteries.

Thanks, I will get a load tester for the battery and check that out.

When I autolevel I need to turn the key to the on position, but when I turn on the autolevel it says LOW voltage, unless I start the engine. What I need to know is.  Can I push the boost button to connect both battery sets to give me enough voltage to run the jacks without starting the engine. I am not wanting to know how or which way is correct on leveling.

My manual says to first put out the slides while aired up. Air down. Autolevel.   getting ready to leave. Start engine and air up. After air up jacks are off the ground. Retrack all jacks (engine running) Shut down engine and pull in slide after airing up. Kind of wierd I think but it seems to be because of the three jacks. The manual says the coach needs to be aired up to move the slides.

When I autolevel I need to turn the key to the on position, but when I turn on the autolevel it says LOW voltage, unless I start the engine.

I have a 2011 Holiday Rambler 36 ft. and when I autolevel I have to start the engine or I get a low voltage on the panel, I was just at the  MS rally in Goshen and went to a Liport session on autoleveling. The person there said they tell the manufacture to ge the power from the house batteries, and if they are hooked to the chassis batter it needs to be moved. 

They way I have to do it now is - hook up the shore power, put out the slides, air down, start engine while either hitting the brakes or push on the parking brake and keep bleeding air as I auto level.

What I wonder is Could I get it ready to autolevel and instead of starting the engine, just turn the key to the on position and hold the boost switch that connects the house and chassis batteries. Would that provite the correct voltage to make the autolevel system work?

3 hours ago, Orrin C said:

Rcpilot1,  can you relate to us how you use a drill to operate the hydraulic levers?

Thanks

 

Orrin

Here is a link to a video on the basic idea of how to do it. But I would call LCI and get tye manual for your rig. I only have two selinoids, one for the front one jack and one for the rear jacks. If this does not help let me know and I will take some pictures of my pump.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aT925EGb8pA

4 hours ago, cbr046 said:

I discovered my dash and floor are at a slightly different level than kitchen counter.  Not enough to really matter, but leveling with the counter keeps the bathroom door from swinging one way or another. 

I use these from Amazon.  Portable, easy to use and yet accurate enough.  I don't mount them, just set them on the counter and work the leveling system.  There are MUCH cheaper alternatives without the graduations ($13.57 for 2 - I can't believe I paid that much) .

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-08526-Never-Graduated-Level/dp/B00CXBAJBO/

That said I doubt you'll get the kind of leveling you want until you fix the hydraulic pump . . . . but maybe good enough to camp.  Sometimes if I find level ground I don't even put the jacks down.  Putting out the slides shouldn't change the level much . . . . not enough to matter. 

Remember:  A level absorption fridge is a happy fridge!

- bob

Thanks Bob,

I had a tech out and it looks like a one time thing. They are working now. I also now knw how to bring them up with a drill in cased they won't come up again.

5 hours ago, Wrayj1 said:

Do you carry a carpenter's level with you, if so use it in the center of the coach to use your boards to level front yo rear and side to side then put your slides out.

Thanks for the info.. I got them fixed.

I have a 2011 Holiday Rambler Ambassator and the hydraolic levelers do not work because the motor is bad and needs replacement. My question is - before I get it fixed can I still put out my slides. When I get to a campground and level out the rig with boards, can I put out the slides, then air down. In my mind I am level. So will that harm the slides or the rig not having the three levelers down?

Nowe adays there is a better alternitive for cleaning and keeping clean the DPF. Go to Pittsburg Power -  https://pittsburghpower.com/pages/dpf-alternatives

and look at the diesel clean process they have. They can clean the DPF without taking them off most of the time. I have actually used there products. I worked for a Kubota dealer and we got one of the machines with the cheical they use and it works great. You can read all about it in the link above. Also (and I use this on every deisel I have. (2009 Ram 3500 6.7 cummins and a 2011 Holiday Rambler with a maxcxforce engine) they sell a procuct called MaxMileage that goes in your fuel. It will keep it clean after you clean the DPF as you drive. It will cut down the re-gens and if you use DEF it will cut down the amount you use. It works great. If you call thm they can reall inform and educate you on how to clean it and why you have a lot less problems with the system. I have no skin in the game It's just that I use it and just works.

https://pittsburghpower.com/pages/max-mileage

Hope that helps.