03Dynasty

You can promote the mom and pop cheap prices off the interstate, but what will be your cost if they were too cheap to maintain their tanks and give you a load of bad fuel, water, algae.  No thanks, that would be a nightmare.   

I metered 13.9v everywhere at floor level and .6v at the lights, had the fuse in and out several times before I sprayed it. The kitchen under-cabinet started working immediately after that to my surprise.
I went back and flushed whereever I had the silicon with WD 40 and CRC contact cleaner just to be sure a protential problem doesn't exist. problem Fixed

I'm with you, light resistance is what caused my problem.

I was a little confused because I use a dialectric silicone on battery terminals, so checking it out I found this that confirms the use of silicone good and bad.  I'm going to have to address what I did, but the voltage and amperage is probably too low to cause a fire. I don't want to leave a problem and need to keep all connections with 0 resistance.  It won't hurt to clean everything up.

   https://waterproofwiki.com/can-you-use-silicone-to-waterproof-electrical-connections/

Good point, WILL DO, I didn't know that.  I'll get the CRC and use it, Thanks    It was a weird problem.  I always had 13v at the switch and wire going to the ceiling.  Occasionally .6v at the fixtures.  The fuses were pulled out and reinserted, switch blades removed and reinserted without changing the fixture voltages.  Had me chasing grounding and bad wire connections.  The spray actually made a immediate difference after chasing my tail for 3 days..   

Took days to troubleshoot but came down to hi resistance connections on kitchen switch and fuse holder/blades.  Fixed by using silicon spray on the fuse box, switch plus making sure crimp on wires was tight.  Had conditions that didn't make sense at times.

 I have 13.9vdc at the switch and in a purple/white wire going from floor to ceiling next to the slide.  I opened the overhead ceiling floresent lights where there is no dcv on multiple purple/white wires.  I also jumpered the hallway hot to the kitchen overhead and all the kitchen lights came on.  Flopping the wires sounds like they go toward the refigerator where there isn't any access (glued padded overhead).  Has anyone worked in this area or know of a shop..  SE Penna.  1st pic is the cable to ceiling, (not accessable).  2nd, just before I opened up the wire access box to find the sorce.  Not much room to see anything but I could get my hand in. I'm not sure how to attack it at this point.

I have 13vdc on the kitchen output (purple/White) switch and no volts on any of the floresent lights.  I jumpered the hallway 13vdc to the kitchen light fixture and all lights worked.  So I'm loosing power from the purple/white switch wire to the black/white wire in the ceiling.  It goes into a cable and I have no idea where it transfer  to the light fixture sorce.  

I might give it a try since you were able to- 

Just checked JRV Products out of business.   I ordered from Amazon

Good call, that was a big help, when 2 out of 3 failed I thought it was in that latch mechanism.  Where do you get the green replacements.  I doesn't look like you can replace the bulb

Thanks.

Just checked Amazon, sure enough they have them

The only light that goes on when the pump is activated is the kitchen indicator light.  If the pump is turned on in the bathroom or bedroom the light goes on in the kitchen only.  I sprayed the electrical latch module in the water bay with contact cleaner.  Then there's 8-10 plug connectors that come off a cable that I didn't touch.  It's 95 degrees in the shade here and I don't want to fish too long.  Not a big deal since the pump works but if someone knows the fix, I'll try it.  Thanks  O3.

I'm pretty sure that's what I have since 2018, 2003 38' Diplomat w/tag. Bought used with  71k miles in Calif. and brought to SE Penna. Updated GE frig, TV,  and so far not too many problems.  Replaced transfer switch with charred wires and terminals.

Bottle ceramic, It's a no brainer if the paint is already looking good.  Get it clean to start, no oxidation, follow directions, apply using good microfiber cloths and towels once or twice a year.  It's Not better or equal to the professional application but the shine and beading is just as good. After the first application it goes on easy in sections. I used it on every vehicle I own and it gets a 5 star rating.  Just a matter of cost and choice of upkeep.  Two days for the first coat on the RV, after that 6 mo. or 1 yr, 2-3 hours.  30 minutes for each (4) cars and Dually twice a year not counting the wash.  I use a brand off the internet that had good and bad reviews, bad ones because the directions weren't followed. You only want to use a little product when applying. I also had to buy a better spray container because the ones they sent were not very good.