Daryl Ammons

On 8/31/2023 at 9:23 PM, Paul J A said:

oI tried to

Thanks for the input Paul.  I tried that number and it is GTR Home Product Information company.  Never got to talk to anyone but on their phone directory there was no Darrell Henson.  Don't know if it's the same company and he no longer works there or what.

Daryl

I have the front drop down TV in my 2008 Executive.  Recently it has started to gradually open while traveling.  It functions fine, as far as, going up and down.   Is there an adjustment or locking mechanism that is supposed to keep it up in the closed position?

On 8/22/2023 at 12:33 PM, Bobbyboy said:

Thanks Daryl.  The only thing I would have different is I have no shelf above the toilet.  Is the switch plug and play with existing wires or did you have to run new wiring??  Looks like you did a good job and congrats.  

Bob L, 08 dynasty

Thanks Bob.  The switch is not plug and play but I just pulled a wire through when I pulled the old wires out.  Then I used that wire to pull the new wires back in.  If you notice on the pictures there is also a shelf to the side of the toilet and the wires to the wall switch are there. The plug end on the wall switch wire was somewhat of a challenge to get fished through but it worked.  It was a tight fit.  The other option is to go with the Dometic with the flush handle on the toilet and then you don’t have to worry about getting that wire fished through to the vanity.  But then you got that large hole where the old wall pad was.  That is why I went back with the wall switch.

On 8/22/2023 at 5:33 PM, Tom Cherry said:

You know, someone like you, in a former career, that depended on their fingers for their trade...and it was NOT construction or repairs or whatever, you did great.  LOL.  That is a first class job.  Glad it worked out...now get out of HERE....COLORADO calls....

Thanks Tom and yes I am itching to head West for a bit.  We are gonna take about 6 days to work our selves out to Durango Co.  We will stay there a week then go to my daughters place in Colorado Springs.  Wife will stay there while I go elk hunting in Montrosse for a week.  Then we’ll head back east.  Oh and we are staying at Branson Mo. for a few days on the way out west.  Excited to get on the road.

On 8/10/2023 at 1:36 PM, Bobbyboy said:

Daryl:  Let me know how the Dometic fits;  I assume it is a macerator type.  Also I found a controller(p/n36387) on E-Bay but they wanted $420.00 for it. No thanks.  Every other place I tried  same thing--out of stock.    Mine ain't broke yet been using it for almost 15 years.  But I like to think ahead;  know what t do if it fails.  Thanks.

 

Bob L, 08 dynasty

Hey Bobby,  I did get the Dometic 8740 macerator toilet installed.  It does fit and works well.  As with all things there were some challenges.  The Dometic specs listed the toilet as 19” high.  I had 19 1/4” to the bottom of the little shelf behind the toilet so thought it would be fine.  Specs were wrong and the toilet was more like 19 3/8” so it wouldn’t slide all the way back to the wall.  It’s only about an inch off so not noticeable.  The floor mounting bolts were wider than the Tecma so I had to drill holes in the tile floor.  Held my breath but got them drilled without cracking the floor.  The discharge pipe coming out of the toilet was different diameter but I was able to use a rubber coupling to connect and it worked out fine.  I opted for a wall pad control like was on my Tecma but it was quite a bit smaller so I had to fabricate a plate to mount it to.  Also the tank sensor wiring was a little different.  It was doable changeover but definitely not just plug and play.  I will include some pictures.  If you end up having to make the change I will be glad to help anyway I can.

On 8/11/2023 at 8:42 PM, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

What is the controller style and part number you need?

I replaced one of my two controllers from the original one-button style to a newer two-button style.  I was told to jumper the two sensor leads to yield a green light.  I have purchased a second two-button controller but have not yet installed it.  So I have one & maybe two) of the controllers you need.  Again—style and part numbers would help.  
 

I have seen new Tecma Silence Plus toilets online for $1200-1400, but replacing the controller(s) would be so much more cost-effective.:

36311 or 36398 is the controller number I need for the macerating toilet.  It was initially the 311 but then changed to the 398 number.

17 hours ago, Bobbyboy said:

Daryl:  Let me know how the Dometic fits;  I assume it is a macerator type.  Also I found a controller(p/n36387) on E-Bay but they wanted $420.00 for it. No thanks.  Every other place I tried  same thing--out of stock.    Mine ain't broke yet been using it for almost 15 years.  But I like to think ahead;  know what t do if it fails.  Thanks.

 

Bob L, 08 dynasty

The controller for mine was 36311 or newer number 36398.  I received my new toilet yesterday and hopefully will get it installed this weekend.  I will post as soon as I get it finished.

3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Daryl, forgot to ask if your toilet is sitting on top of your black tank? If not then your only option is to have a macerator type toilet. Any of the gravity type toilets will not work in your coach.

You are correct, Mine does not sit over the black tank so I don’t have any choice but go with Same macerator type toilet.  

On 8/9/2023 at 9:45 AM, jacwjames said:

My Thetford Aria started to act up, I did the obvious checking connections/fuse etc.  It got progressively worse.  Nothing not being able to flush when your doing your business.  So yesterday I finally decided to pull it, I've had it out before, other then the weight and bulky to handle it's not bad.  Took out the blade flush mechanism and cleaned and lubricated, really couldn't find anything wrong.  But there were two wiring connectors for the small motor that are hard to get to and I forgot they were there, so I made sure to check how tight they were.  Also flipped the RV/residential selecting switch back and forth.  After doing all that and reinstalling all is good. 

So I looked at the controller, have you checked each of the many plug ins.  Might pay to work these and if you have some dielectric grease put it in the connectors. 

Thanks for the info.  I did check and work all the connections multiple times and made sure I had power to the controller but nothing made any difference.  Also took the macerator apart to make sure nothing clogged.  I checked according to Thetford troubleshooting and all indications are bad controller.

13 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

It seems that this tyoe of toilet can be problematic. If you surf any of the rv forums that include entry level bath and half they all compain about toilets that do notwork well. I think some must hae a seperate pump as it is difficult to access the mrchanisms. Our unit is a 2008 and other than using too much warer the only problem has benn the soft touch push button. I supppose after this post it will quit. The very best rv toilet was the Sealand. It came in 2 heights  ,porcelain bowl and a ball and seal system tjat was easy to fix. I think Dometic now makes that toilet

 

Thanks Bruce,  since I couldn’t find a controller for the Thetford I have ordered the Dometic.  I will post once I get it and get it installed and let everyone know how it works and how difficult the changeover is.

1 hour ago, birdshill123 said:

Unless something has changed the Tecma is not built by Thetford. It is European. French  I think. there  are not many macerating toilets that are designed for a NON drop situation. Marine people use Tecmas. You can spend over $2000 for a good one.

Tecma is sold under the Thetford brand as you can see in the attached product page.  It is even difficult to find the new Thetford toilets.  Don’t know what’s going on with the company but seems they are not producing any toilets or replacement part.  I don’t know who builds it but from my understanding is made in Italy.  Dometic and Saniflow also have none drop type macerating toilets.

3 hours ago, Bobbyboy said:

My 08 Dynasty has the Thetford Tecma;  the build sheet says it is a model 36500.  Daryl is that the same model as yours??  Fortunately I have never had a problem but you now have me worried as we are getting ready for a trip.  If the switch malfunctions I got problems cause there is no way to manually flush.  At least that I know of unless someone on here has a suggestion  I just am amazed that Thetford can't give you some guidance.  If you find a solutoin please keep us posted.

 

Bob L, 08 dynasty

Hey Bob, here is a picture if my toilet and the model number.  I am going to attempt putting a Dometic 8740 toilet in to replace the Thetford.  I will let you know how it goes.  Should be getting it Friday and putting it in this weekend.  I will post the results.

7 hours ago, LakeBob said:

My coach has two Thetford's that work flawlessly.  They are both macerators.   

Has Thetford stated that the boards are no longer available?

Curious as I have the same!

 

Thetford has said they are not available now and there is no known time that they will be available.  Spoke with NWRV and they said they have taken the controllers out of 50 new toilets to supply their customers and beyond that they have customers that have been on a waiting list for controllers since January.  Also read online that there is a heat issue with the controllers and some of them will only work when coach is cold.  The coach owner that posted that (either on Monacoer's or IRV2, not sure which as I have read so much) said he spoke with a customer service person at Thetford and he did not recommend buying the controller, even if one came available, at this time because the heat issue has not been resolved.  Not sure if that is why they are not available or not.  I have even tried to find a new Thetford toilet but having problems finding one.  Someone online said they were blaming the supply issue on Covid.  Not sure I want to buy even a new one as I may be buying something I can't get parts for.  That is why I am looking at changing brands but I haven't found anyone that has made the change from Thetford to another macerating toilet brand.  One guy said he replaced his with a composting toilet but don't want to go that route.  Dometic does have the 8700 series that looks like it may work.  It does have tank sensors also but not sure if it would be compatable with the sensors that are already in my tank or not.  I think if I have to I can live without the sensors but I don't think I can go on a trip across the country without a toilet.  I have a 5000 mile trip coming up in September so I am sorta getting in a crunch.

Sorry for such a long answer but I am just ranting.  I hope yours continue to work good and you don't get into this situation.  At least you have two.  My one is the only one.  LOL

7 hours ago, LakeBob said:

My coach has two Thetford's that work flawlessly.  They are both macerators.   

Has Thetford stated that the boards are no longer available?

Curious as I have the same!

 

 

 

Customer Service US <consumersupport@thetford.com>	Sat, Aug 5, 6:48 PM (3 days ago)
to me

Thank you for contacting Consumer Support,

Both part numbers are currently on a back order with no ETA at this time. 

Thetford macerating toilet quit and can't get a controller for it from Thetford.  I have been searching vendors and the internet for over a week.  Finally come to the conclusion that I am going to have to put in a new toilet but having trouble even finding a OEM replacement. 

Two questions for the group

1. Is there any kind of work around to bypass that controller that anyone knows of?

2. Has anyone replaced the Thetford macerating toilet (Silence Plus) with another brand?

Got a trip coming up and need a toilet or my DW is going to extremely difficult to live with.  LOL

23 minutes ago, Wrayj1 said:

I bought one from Amazon 2 years ago,$375.  You might also try N W RV Supply, Eugene, OR, 541-746-9092.  If they don't have the part or access to it they might have a replacement toilet.  When I was shopping for the control board I I itially could. Ot fine one, N W Supply had new toilets for 1/2 the price off what I was finding from other sources.  Good luck with your search

Ray I just talked to NWRV and they have had those controllers on backorder since January.  Said they had 50 Thetford toilets there and have stripped the controllers out of all of them and still have 6 people that have been waiting on those controllers since January.  Looks like I may not be able to find that part and I have a trip coming up in September.  I guess I need to look for a toilet to replace what I have.  What type toilet did you buy from NWRV and did it work without a lot of adapting your RV?

Also anyone else following this, has anyone replaced their Thetford Tecma macerating toilet with another brand that worked?

Controller is bad on my Thetford toilet in my 2008 Monaco Ececutive.  I have not been able to find one and was hoping someone on the site might have a supplier or an idea where I might find one.  Thetford Tecma pn 36311.  I have emailed Thetford and have not heard back from them.  They have no phone support.

21 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

No Doubt.  That’s what the other sites are saying….same thing.  NOW, if one has a marginal Chassis battery (cranks the Genny), of course it will be worse as the voltage will be lower…

As to the “fix”.  Yes, I thought about holding in the Boost.  That then, if you do it long enough for the heaters to cycle off and then the alternator starts to catch back up, it could exceed the “Full Current” ON TIME of the Intellitec Big Boy.  One should recall that pitted contacts are the number one complaint and in many cases, with the Intellitec Big Boy, that is the issue.  So, why run the risk of a full 12 VDC ON time on the Big Boy and burn out the coil as well? Almost like trading a pain in one arm to one in the other….and that arm was already weaker.

Starting the Engine with insufficient voltage to prevent a running genny from shutting down and potentially damaging the $750 (rebuilt) to $1500 (new) board seems like a losing proposition when it ain’t necessary.  These were the prices that were quoted to me by a member, offline, that needed a new 10K board….that was a few years ago….so, maybe less or higher….

Daryl, you remember the issues with the Big Boy on your previous MH and the “fix” which was sort of “out there”?  
 

Just strange to me that the gen shutting down just started happening on the way home from a recent trip.  Had never happened before.  
my gen is a 12kw and the 2 cranking batteries are new (4/23) 1000CA.  I have tried using battery boost but does not make a difference.  I am not sure the big boy is working on this one either.  Gonna try to check that today.  Not having problems with chassis battery going down but it has a battery tender Hooked to it.  Guess I should have ask PO why that was needed huh.  Looks like the wiring to the BB is different than my previous MH so makes me think they may have altered it.  Maybe I will send you a picture of the RR box.  
Still wonder if the starter is dying and pulling more amps than it should?  The first turn of the engine makes you wonder if it’s gonna crank.  PO said it had always been like that and he had the starter replaced under warranty but did not change.  I read on a post that someone had replaced the starter on their ISX with a Denso starter and cured the problem.    Lots of ???????

On 7/12/2023 at 9:04 AM, Tom Cherry said:

@Gene Y

that now makes sense.  You need to read and understand how the remote works.  That will allow you to start and stop as well as use the AGS correctly.

The only fly in the ointment is that, supposedly, the 12.5 has its own alternator.  That is supposed to supply power to the Genny, so it should not shut down if the cranking battery is low.  You need to read the manual and the explanation of exactly how the alternator runs and interacts with the cranking battery.

maybe some other Sig owners can elaborate or tell us if their genny sputters and shuts down when running and then cranking the engine.

From your comments, the shutting down when the generator is running and you are cranking should not, “in theory” have happened.  We know or have a high degree of confidence in saying that a severe drop in the chassis battery for those who crank from the chassis will kill their 10 K genny.  I would have thought that the alternator would have prevented that.  But….the question is….”were their options for configuration” of the alternator and could that have been bypassed by Monaco……

Now, personally, i would just NOT crank the engine when the generator is running and avoid the erratic shutdown.  But, being a curios cuss, I would then read the manual and if it says that should be NO shutdown, I  would get my Model and SN of the genny  and call ONAN and ask tech support.  In theory, if there is an Alternator that is supposed to recharge the cranking battery, then your chassis should be getting charged directly from the genny when running and not need the inverter charger to keep them charged.  But….who knows what electronic skulduggery that Monaco did….

IF you pursue this and talk  to ONAN….let us know 

Tom my 2008 Executive has just started doing that on my last trip but my starter sounds like it struggles to turn the engine at first.  I had read on someone else’s post that on some coaches Monaco did not put a large enough wire from the starter to the battery.  I was wondering if maybe the starter is dying or the cable is causing more amperage to be needed to turn the engine and causing the gen to shut down.  I have not checked yet to see if my gen starts from the house or chassis batteries but I suspect it is from the chassis by it shutting down when I crank the main engine.  For now I will avoid but I definitely want to find out what is causing it.  

Getting ready to go on a trip after not using motorhome in 3-4 weeks and the toilet will not flush.  There are lights on the flush panel and the fuse in the back closet is not blown.  Hit either, the water conserve flush or the regular flush button and nothing happens.  Is there another fuse somewhere?  Any ideas of what I should check next?  this is my first challenge of a non flushing toilet.

Thanks in advance for any input.

You still have this motorhome?  If so would like more pictures.

Daryl

The left (street side) camera has not worked since I bought the coach and I just figured it was a bad camera but started trouble shooting it and the camera is good.  If I plug the left camera into the right plug under the dash it works so have determined there must be a problem in the Intellitec video switch.  I have looked for it online but come up with nothing. Says no longer available.  
does anyone have any suggestions on where I may find one or if there is something I could replace it with without getting into a in-depth rewiring of the system?

I bought diesel for $3.51 per gallon on the way home from Florida with my TSD card at. TA truck stop which was over $ .80 off their inflated pump price 

7 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Yes

Yes, reducing the weight on the front will reduce the harshness of the ride. With 15K on the front you needed 120 psi in your 295s. Once you get the front below 14K (it’s rated 14,600) you’ll likely need 110 and 85 in the drivers, and 75 in the tags.

I run 315s on the front because I can reduce by 10 psi what’s need to carry the weight… softening the harshness. I run 11Rs on the rear but they require 10 psi more to carry the same weight as a 295… not a problem on the rear and they are the same diameter.

No problem with clearance with the 315’s?

1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

Which engine do you have?

I have the Cummins ISL 425

56 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

I run mine around 47. You really need to weigh it after adjusting regulator. When reducing tag pressure, more weight is transferred to drive axle. I prefer more percentage of the weight on the drivers than the steer axle. It is literally a balancing act, adjusting it back and forth until you get it where you want. Hope this helps.

Does reducing the tag pressure take any weight off the steer axle?

1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

What were your axle weights and 80 is almost double what I run. 

Ivylog

my steer axle is 14,890

drive axle 17,520

tag 11,400

have it down to just below 60psi now so will need to weigh it again

1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

What were your axle weights and 80 is almost double what I run. 

Those weights were with the gray and black tanks at least 2/3 full and 3/4 tank of fuel.

it would be nice if there were a guideline of what percentage of weight should be on each axle and try to work towards that 

Had my coach weighed at the gathering, thanks to Scotty and his helpers, and it seemed very heavy on the front axle.  Weight is almost to the max recommended and I have nothing in the front bay.  The tag seemed to be heavier than I thought it should. Made me wonder if maybe the tag pressure was too high but I didn’t have any idea what that should be set on.  I knew the gauge was there but just figured it was set from the factory. Ask Dave Pratt during the round table and he said it should be 50-60 PSI.  Before leaving Lazydays this morning I checked and mine was set at almost 80 lbs.  I reduced the pressure and cycled, getting it down to just under 60.  May be my imagination but Seems like it may have softened up the front suspension some on the bad bumps.  I look forward to weighing it again now to see if maybe it took some weight off the front axle.  I know this may be elementary but maybe someone in the group can use this information.  I learned so much I at the gathering.  Thank you Dave for putting it together, Van for the suspension presentation, for the vendors who shared information and for all the members that were so generous with information.