radioman

18 hours ago, Kenster said:

Don't start laughing. I see people hauling motorcycles, golf carts, and ATVs on carriers attached to the back of their class a pusher. Why could you not have a fold down hot tub attachment? Granted, you could not travel with it full of water but, imagine pulling into a park, folding down and filling your hot tub and tapping into your 50 amp breaker. You would probably need adjustable jacks on the carrier but, I guarantee you would be the hit of the park. Okay, I've been married, give it to me I can take it.

I have seen several full timers with inflatable hot tubes that hold 300 gallons. Watch a guy fold his up and roll it up inside a med sized suitcase. Fills it up with his Aqua Hot.  Has a 12 volt circulation pump for circulations and drain.

I was afraid of that. 

Jetjockey is 100% correct. I can tell he is or has been involved in the aviation industry. 
Garber filters ARE NOT MADE BY WIX. They are manufactured by General Filters Inc. Most Wix filters aren’t made by WIX anymore. WIX was bought out by Mann+Hummel a few years back. Also a few years back the filter industry was forced to get together and rethink their cross references on filters. Filters company’s use to list a cross reference if their filter had the same dimensions and thread and micron rating and flow rate. Not so much anymore. Hydroscopic, epoxy coating, antibacterial,anti fugal and many other factors come into play. The Garber R cross's to very few anymore. Cat, Cummins, and Volvo filters use to cross to every brand, not so much anymore. 

Yes start at least once a month. A Webasto DBW2010 has a nozzle with one of the smallest hole over made. They only use a 1/3 of a gallon an hour, plus they have to produce a perfect cone shaped pattern.Most oil fired nozzle use 2 to 10 gallons an hour or more. They plug up easy.

Do what you want. We drain flush to its clear enough to drink than refill with new

All model 100 200 500 600 450D 

By sides age most of these unit didn't have proper maintenance over the years. Just like like an automobile the antifreeze should be flushed and refill with new ever 5 years even every 4 years would be better or at least check the PH with a test strip. Antifreeze  be it propylene or the old time stuff turns too far to the acid scale when it gets old.

Before you spend a ton of money on a burner rebuild or repair. I would check and see if you are losing boiler antifreeze. We have seen a lot of cracked burn chambers this winter not sure why. Other than those unit are getting 20 years old. The fluid leaks in when the unit isn’t running and than stops after a long burn the crack closes up. On your unit it is easy to check because you have an old time radiator cap. Take the burner out borrow or rent a Stant radiator pressure pump. Pump it up to 13 PSI than look in the burn chamber for the leak. I hope that isn’t your problem but we have seen 6 since November 1st

It tests everything the Webasto made box test for half the price. It tests and you can run the burner off just the test box. You can't leave it on for long periods because you are bypassing the thermostats. When you first plug it up you have a green light showing you have 12 volt power. Than there is a fuel button and spark button and a light showing the flame sensor is working. The first thing I always do is without the motor switch on you can hit fuel button and listen for the fuel solenoid to click. Than hit spark and listen real close for the coil sparking it sounds like a Tazzer. Than turn the motor on and see if your unit lights. If it lights and runs on the test box you know nothing is wrong with the burner.There is always a light showing if the flame sensor is working correctly.Time to look elsewhere. IE control box, electronic control board, Hi temp shutdown, control thermo.

My dad's company makes and sells a very nice burner tester for less than 300 dead presidents. 

3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Your right!

I started leaving my front cover off to reduce heat buildup in there. I was chatting with a AH qualified repairman working on a coach next to myself, and told him I was leaving the cover off. He tells me if the AH catches fire with that cover off, my insurance won't cover me!

You can extend the B and C cable thru the big  grommet on top and mount it outside the enclosure and put your lid back on. Louisville Engineering makes a plug and play cables to do this. In full disclosure I should point out one of the owners is my dad and I worked for them in the summer before I was commissioned into the Navy.

Before Aqua Hot switched to the Garber R spin on ( which is a nice filter for an RV, because they are epoxy coated on the inside and don’t rust) they used the the Parker/Racor R12T system which is a cartridge style. The system Louisville Engineering installs and sells is the Parker/Racor R12 with an R12S element 4 micron after the fuel goes trough the original 10 micron. They let the original Garber R filter the big particles before the R12S. As for as changing anything Aqua Hot did originally, keep in mind these are the same design engineers that still today mount a burner control module under the cover cooking at 185 degrees even on 100 degree days with the Aqua Hot turned off.

On 12/15/2022 at 4:38 PM, Dr4Film said:

Unless you intend on removing the Aqua-Hot unit to rebuild it yourself which will save you tons of money, my suggestion would be to scrap the POS and install an Espar Mobile Comfort Model 16 unit which is more powerful than any of the Aqua-Hot units. The overall size is smaller, 5-gallon boiler tank, easier to service yourself and has hot water on demand. There are many more advantages to the Espar unit versus being stuck with another failure prone Aqua-Hot unit.

Here is the link to where my friend had his installed.

Rixen’s Enterprises, Inc. | MCS16 Furnace System Complete (rixens.com)

Wow that's a nice looking unit. I don't know what their production rate can handle but  with Aqua Hot now using China copy's of the Webasto burner that might give leaky Hot a run for their money.

The light stays on at the end of the cool down period unless you turn the switch off or it detected a problem. This latest box is really sensitive ver the older versions.  Number one problem it will shut down for low voltage at 1.2 volts high

er then the green LED board and about 2 volts before the old boxes.

(1) the light has a delay when you first turn the switch on while its running about 7 different tests. Than another 2 or 3 secs before it turns on motor while its doing 2 more tests.

(2) Unlike the older boxes on error the light doesn't go out until it completes the cool down 2 minute period. 

(3) One good thing about them is they will mask a problem with your LED electronic control board for about a year.

On 10/6/2023 at 10:45 AM, Nevada Rob said:

The coolant tank for the generator is cracked in 4 places. I appears that Cummins/Onan has decided to not produce these tanks any longer. I am guessing Cummins is just like a ziplock bag. Use a little then throw it away and get a new one. I have searched the inter-web for a replacement with zero results. Has anyone tried to plastic weld the tanks as a repair? To have a tank custom built is very costly. 

One of the NASCAR team engineers needed one for the owners Bus for a 12.5 and he 3D printed 8 of them. I ask him if he had anymore. He said he sold them to Marathon Coach in Oregon. He thinks he might still have the CAD drawing.

That rubber nipple on the air intake had a service recall years ago. You are suppose to remove it and throw it away.

That might get the job done. I know Parker makes great products. They are known to under rate and out perform. You could call one of the Parker stores (most cities have at least one) and see if they could get you a sample. Keep in mind you are not only looking for Thermo transfer but a glueing properties also. The original Hydro Hot product failed because the coil became unglued from the tank. There has been a lot of new bonding products in the last 11 years.Tesla uses at least 12 different glues on the model S

We tried the refrigerator stuff years ago. It didn’t stand up to the 185F degree heat. After two heat cycles it just crumbles away. Maybe they have changed it.

10 hours ago, JTerry said:

I am trying to help my step son get information on his Aqua Hot system. When he purchased his Fleetwood he discovered there was a leak in the copper tubing. He can repair the leak but has not been able to find the black material covering the copper coils. Does anyone have any idea what this material is and where it can be purchased?

Thanks for any info 

As someone else already stated I’m assuming it’s a real old model with the domestic hot water coil on the outside of the tank. We ran in to that problem years ago. It was a glue/heat transfer compound. Aqua Hot would never tell what the compound was. They claimed it was proprietary even after they no longer built them that way. (Moved coils inside tank after GRAS antifreeze became common.) The main problem they had with this compound was after a few years this compound after many cycles of hot and cold would crack up and fall apart. Dust to Dust as they say. When this happened very little tank heat would transfer to the coils. We tried several different brands of old furnace cement to repair them, that didn’t work. We finally tried the glue that automotive brake manufacturers use to glue the the fiction material to the steel backing plate on disk brake pads. We repaired 4 or 5 units with this compound back in 2004 to 2008. To the best of my knowledge they are still in use. An employee at a company called Ambrake got this compound for us. He has since passed away. I don’t know where you can obtain any now. You might try Raybestos brakes. They might be the easiest to deal with.

Do you still have just the tow bar. Don’t need the base plate. Give us a call our fall apart. Larry Kirksey 313 550 4131.

22 hours ago, Croom352 said:

Yes, both hi-limit trip when on diesel. We're running on electric only now with a new AC high limit thermostat. Seems to be only diesel that is causing the issue. Believe the issue is the DC control thermostat circuit in the controller might not be working or shorted causing the burner to stay running until the hi-limit trips and shuts off fuel solenoid.

There is not a thermostat inside the control Box. The control box sends 12 volt out the orange wire on the C Plug to your regular thermostat. If the regular thermostat is calling for heat around 160F the switch will close and send the 12 volt back to the burner control on the C plug white wire and that starts the cycle. What you need to do is unplug one of the wire going to the regular thermostat if your burner stops burning you have a bad regular thermostat if it keeps burning you have a bad controller 

Thats what I told him.If you don't want the diesel to run turn the diesel switch off.

Im guessing if its a 450D you have the electronic LED control board mounted on the bay wall? If this is the case there is only one thermostat that calls for heat. The other two are safety thermos that trip off and turn off the electric element and the second  one turns of the diesel if anything goes wrong, they are manual resettable. The one control thermo turns on diesel and electric when the boiler solution drops below a certain temp like 165F. If you dont want diesel to fire up you have to turn off the diesel switch.

On 12/2/2022 at 10:37 PM, On_the_road said:

On my AquaHot AHE-100-01S there is a fuse for the preheat pump.   In the picture, there is a fuse block just below the connection block in the upper right corner.   The fuse for the preheat pump is the left most fuse.   Each pump has a fuse in the fuse block.

You have a fuse because you have the classic 3 relay system . If you have a electronic LED control board the pumps are controlled by FET and have auto reset fuses soldered to the circuit board upstream from the FET,s

It won't be a fuse if everything else on you Aqua Hot is working. The LED board sends the 12 volts up to the Engine preheat switch all the time and when the switch is on the 12 volts is sent back to the LED board. This will turn on the FET transistor, which will turn on the engine preheat light and the engine preheat pump under certain conditions. The preheat LED and Pump won't come on unless the low temp cut off LED is lighted. And most units are set up to not turn on unless the diesel switch is also on. 

If we can retrieve the short program off the old switch we can program you a new one. If we can't retrieve, we would have to know which module A,B,C or D and which position on the module turns on the lights you want on.  We have the interface and software and switch panels. I can't recall witch panel you are having problems with. Is it the small 6 button or large 6 or large 10 button?