beemerman

Just a thought, it could be that the bearings on the pulley went bad and seized up the pulley.  Check the center of the pulley which is connected to the compressor to see if it will move.  You might just need a new clutch assy if you are lucky.

I was Maintenance Mgr for a trucking company for over 40 years and have seen a lot of engines in that time.  If the counterbores are in good shape then it is very rare that the block is unusable.  The cylinder liners are sealed to the block for coolant using o-rings and if that area is pitted it can be repaired using something like J B Weld.  The block  just needs a smooth enough surface for the o-rings to seal.  The counter bores do the hard work of sealing compression and locating the liner in the block.  Reconditioning the counter bores is very common and Cummins has shims and tooling needed.

Good luck with your project.

Thanks for posting this for us.  I had a couple of questions for you.  I was wondering why you bead blasted and painted the intake elbow?  Were you concerned with corrosion contaminating the intake or was it just for cosmetics? What setting did you use for the jakes?  I recently ran the overhead on my ISL and set the jakes to .090.  I was considering going a little tighter to help the performance but decided to go with quick serve.  I have always thought that my jakes are a little weak comparing them to how others have told me their jakes perform.  

Thanks again for sharing your expertise.

Update on my search for the gauge.

Using Tom's Amazon link I was able to find the correct screw on gauge P/N - G-12845.  After more investigation I was able to purchase one on E-bay for $54.00 with free shipping.  Once again thanks for the help, this group is great!

https://www.amazon.com/Manchester-5628S02537-Screw-Propane-Sender/dp/B00EP1R2AG/ref=sr_1_32?crid=288LAN6NSSDV2&keywords=manchester+propane+tank&qid=1698157621&sprefix=manchester+propane+tank+gauge%2Caps%2C323&sr=8-32&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc

Thanks for the quick reply Tom.  I tried to attach a pic but I guess I will have to try again.  It looks like the gauge is held on with 2 screws.

LPG (1).pdf

2003 Dynasty with 38 gal LPG tank.  While on our last trip I noticed that my tank monitor said my LPG was empty.  I was pretty sure that couldn't be accurate so I checked the gauge on the tank and found the needle laying in the bottom of the gauge.  I was hoping that someone could tell me what it takes to replace the gauge on the tank.  I'm hoping that it is external to the tank but don't know anything about how the gauge is installed.  Any advice would be appreciated.  TIA

I have used Oregon Light Truck and RV several times and had great success.  They are busy but have always taken care of my needs.

8632 Crater Lake Hwy

White City OR

541-830-8005

You could check to see if your jakes are working by sending 12v to the wires that plug on the valve cover spacer.  The pic you posted has one of the wires circled, there are two of them.  One is for the front 3 cyl and the other is for the rear 3 cyl.  Unplug the wire and put 12v to the connection one at a time and you should hear the jake come on and the engine run rough.  That will at least tell you if the problem is under the valve cover or not getting power to the valve cover. Its a good way to diagnose the problem and won't hurt a thing.

Thanks for the reply but unfortunately my Dynasty doesn't have the same lights in the closet.  It was a good solution for you though.

1 hour ago, amphi_sc said:

I dropped a different style glass lense in my Beaver and shattered into a gazillion pieces, but found MHSRV in Alvarado Tx had some exact old stock.  Call their parts dept and maybe get lucky?  MHSRV.com

Thanks for the info.  I will try to get a phone number for them and give them a call tomorrow.

Lucky would be good!

1 hour ago, Paul A. said:

RV Parts & Salvage Yards  "TRY" the last 4 on this list.

https://camperfaqs.com/rv-salvage-yards

https://bontragers.com

www.rvdoctorgeorge.com

https://colawrvsalvage.com/, https://www.veurinksrv.com/

https://www.rvyard.com/

findmyrvparts.com

rvparts.visonerv.com

anyrvparts.com 

finditparts.com

 

 

Thanks for the info.  I will give them a try.  That looks like a good list to keep in my treasure chest.

Thanks for the replies.

I'm trying to retain the lights that I have because I just bought LED lights to fit them.  I talked to N W RV Supply with no success.

The search continues.

I have a 2003 Dynasty and it has Liteco model 1651H puck lights.  With my usual skill and dexterity, while replacing the bulbs with LEDs I found out that the lens were glass when I dropped one on my tile floor and it exploded.  I have been trying to locate a replacement lens with no success.  The lens measures approx 2 1/8" in diameter.  I thought I would reach out and see if anyone has replaced these lights and may have some of the old lights or lenses they would part with.

Any help would be appreciated.

TIA

On 6/1/2023 at 4:15 AM, hitechpete said:

I had the same problem with my drivers side panel and to a lesser extent to main dashboard, I epoxied aluminium to the back, making holes in the metal slightly larger than the originals for clip in items (switches), then repaired the damage with car body filler and covered it all with carbon fibre automobile wrap.

Photo 3 shows the end result on the dash, I can’t find my photos of the drivers side console.

That looks really good, great job!  It's a project that I need to do on our 03 Dynasty.

On 5/31/2023 at 5:34 AM, klcdenver said:

I had the same problem on my 2003 Dip. I removed the panel and used thin aluminum epoxied to the underside for strength. I then used a 3M product called di-noc. It is self sticking and you can use a heat gun to really shrink it to a perfect fit. It comes in many colors and designs. Available on eBay and Amazon.

That looks great, what did you do for the labels that were printed on the panel?

I have a 2003 Dynasty and my slides quit working too.  After bypassing the bay door safety switches with no success I crawled under the entry steps to check the fluid in the hydraulic tank which was fine.  While I was there I checked the fuses at the pump which were also fine.  I noticed there was several wires for the system that ran to a ground by the pump so I unbolted then and cleaned the connections ( they looked ok to me) and then the slides worked fine.  They grounds were the issue.  Could be the same problem here?

When I bought my 03 Dynasty it had a Traveler set up for Direct TV.  I had to purchase a Dish specific LNB kit and a DHP42 booster and program the Traveler control box to find the correct satellites.  It was fairly easy to do but cost about $650.  I also use the Dish receiver (Hopper 3) and Joey from my house so we can have the recorded programs with us.  My wife has a lot of movies on the DVR that she loves.

I also have the Direct receiver and LNB that I would sell if anybody could use it.

Some really good information here, thanks everybody!  I don't know that it helped me to make up my mind what to do for shocks, but I do know that I am going to check and see if I have Monroe shocks on the front of my coach.  I like to have a cushy ride but I have also noticed some porpoising on some roads.  I am happy with the handling of my coach but then I drive very conservatively.

I replaced all 8 tires on my 2003 Dynasty about 8 months ago with Toyo M-144 295/80R-22.5.  The guy who installed them was very good, he cleaned the bead areas on all of the wheels, used plenty of lube, and checked the run-out on every tire.  He remounted a couple of tires spinning them on the wheel until they ran true.  I had balance beads installed on all the tires and they run very smooth.  I have put about 10,000mi on them so far with no problems checking air, the valve stems have not been a problem.  I would have to recommend the balancing beads.

On my 2003 Dynasty the shades switch directions when the switch is depressed.  One time when the switch is pressed the shade will go up and the next time the switch is pressed the same direction the shade will go down.  I can't quite get my head around how that happens.  

20 hours ago, wamcneil said:

Yours should look like this. In the upper right side of the diagram, you'll see the high current box that's on the right side of the engine compartment. Power goes through the circuit breakers to the salesman solenoids, and then up to the electrical bay in the front. 

As others stated, one of the salesman switch solenoids could have failed or one of the circuit breakers that feeds them.

Thanks for posting this wiring diagram.  I have no wiring diagrams in my coach information and this could come in very handy.  I'm going to print this out and add it to my book.

Thanks for the information.  I will get it to my buddy.

I knew there would be some good suggestions from this group and I wasn't disappointed.

A good friend of mine has a 2004 Windsor and is needing to replace the weather strip for the engine access hatches in the bedroom and closet.  He has been unable to find the correct weather strip but I'm sure that someone in this group will know where to get it.

Thanks for the help

I double checked my self and went to Cummins Quick Serve website.  This is a direct quote from that site.

"Engine brakes can be operated continuously at engine speeds below 2300 rpm. Engine brakes can be operated intermittently at engine speeds between 2300 and 2600 rpm. Do not exceed 2600 rpm under any circumstances.  Engine damage can occur."

My information was incorrect by 100 rpm in my mind, but I have always leaned to the more conservative view point for longevity. 

Guess that is what happens when I share my "vast knowledge."

Sorry for the inaccurate information.

Happy travels

I just wanted to clarify the difference in engine brakes on the ISL400 engines. The PacBrake and Jake brake are actually compression brakes and an exhaust brake is just as it sounds.  A compression brake uses the energy it takes for the piston to compress the air in the cylinder to slow the engine.  The jake head then opens the exhaust valve and releases the pressure before it can force the piston back down in the cylinder, that is why they are louder than an exhaust brake.  An exhaust brake simply closes off the exhaust and slows the air flow through the engine.  The exhaust brake is not as efficient as a compression brake.  The compression brake is actually an extra mechanical device that sets on top of the valve train so it can control when the the exhaust valves open for braking.

One other thing that I feel should be mentioned is the recommended RPM limit for the ISL400 is 2,200.  Both types of engine brakes put out more braking horsepower as the RPM rises.  My Dynasty with the ISL400 will put out about 16 lbs of manifold pressure with the Jake brake on HI at 2,000rpm.

As the Maintenance Mgr for a trucking company for 47 years I thought I would pass along some knowledge gained along the way.

Happy travels.

Thanks for the information, looks like just what I was wanting to do.  Has to be a big improvment.

I have a 2003 Dynasty and was wondering if anyone has retrofitted the entry door with a gas shock.  If you could give me some info on the shock and mounting I would appreciate the help.  I'm thinking it would be a big improvement to open the door to a full 90 degrees and control the movement.

Thank you Bob.  This looks like what I needed.  I will check it and  make sure but certainly looks promising.

I appreciate the pics.

4 hours ago, Bob Doh said:

I have a 2003 Dynasty Baroness. 
I will attach pictures. 

Hope this helps. I also have the electrical diagrams manual,

Regards

Bob  Doherty 

03 Dynasty Baroness 3 slides

w/a-2008 Avalanche 

You mentioned that you have wiring schematics for your coach?  I would like to know where you got it.  I could certainly like to have one for my coach.