moonlitblue

2 hours ago, Dave Pumphrey said:

Have you read any of the posts?

If you did, you would know he is only trying to get the Atwood furnace to work independently of the new A/C he installed...

(Sorry, just have a problem with people who do this)

I feel the same way Dave, it seems like some people in this post are just not reading what I wrote and writing their own question in, lol.

I don't want anyone to think I don't appreciate their input greatly. I do. 

After reading everyone's input, and having spoke to Dometic (they were really cryptic, I believe they did no want me to switch from their AC unit) at length, I believe (given the dometic cryptic conversations) that there was a control board in the old AC (wish I knew that before I scrapped that boat anchor) and now after all your valued insight, I either need to put that board back into the system (not sure where or how) and I'll have heat.

Or take the furnace apart and rewire it to a new thermostat?

I have a multimeter and have a mid level skill set, I was trying to avoid taking the Atwood unit apart, with a work around (need that board though?) and if there isn't a dedicated 12V source at the furnace I have to find one.

I knew we should have kept our 5th Wheel 😉

13 minutes ago, BradHend said:

Tony can you please post a picture of the remote that came with your combo unit? All the manuals I’m looking at are able to control both heat and cool with the remote. 

…via the mode button. 

There is also a three minute start delay for the compressor to come on, could be more if it’s colder. 

Brad at the beginning of this post I put the pictures of the thermostat I have and the wiring associated with it. I don't have a combo unit, not really sure what you are asking. I have a stand alone Rec Pro 13,500 unit on the roof now, that has a remote, which works it just fine. I'm trying to operate the Atwood Furnace that came with the coach from the thermostat on the wall (see pictures at the top of post) There is nothing I have that has a remote to work heat. There is not heat strip in the Rec Pro unit and as I stated the AC works great with the remote that came with it. There is not combo unit?

I'm trying to make the thermostat that came on the wall of the coach (not a diesel coach, not a 5 button thermostat-see pictures at the beginning of the post) work just the Atwood Furnace that came with the coach.

No combo unit, just heat.

16 minutes ago, BradHend said:

So to get this straight…you are replacing the rooftop A/C unit with a combo heat/cool unit and not using the stand alone furnace  that came with the coach?

Brad, Just to get everyone on the same page. I have an F53 Ford Chassis, so this is not a DP and has none of the systems or controls that the DP coaches have. 

Next I have already removed the single 13,500 Dometic AC unit on the roof that came with the coach and installed a Rec Pro Houghton stand alone roof top 13,500 AC unit that operates off a hand held remote control. The AC works just fine, you control it with the hand held remote unit.

Breaking the original Dometic Penguin unit out of the system has left the thermostat (Picture posted at the beginning of this) useless. It does not work the heat. I'm not trying to operate the AC with it, I have a hand held remote control that came with the Rec Pro unit to operate the AC.

I contacted Dometic about how to make the thermostat operate just the heat and they told me "Good Luck, you can't do that".

I need to make the heat work. There are not blue wires in the system (see the picture at the start of this post) and I have tried wiring the system with a digital Thermostat, with many different wiring combinations from the 30 videos on YouTube, where people have replaced their analog Dometic Thermostat with a digital, none of that works. I bought a new Analog Thermostat and and wired is 10 different ways (again people who "Made it work" on YouTube, and none of them worked. I have checked the fuse, there is power at the fuse. 

Seeing as Dometic told me it wouldn't work after I changed the AC unit out, I'm asking here if anyone has done this and found a work around.

Aparently, different than the 5 button controller that most of you have (again see the picture for what I have), I don't have an Aquahot or zoned heating. I have one Atwood furnace. Dometic tole me that when I disconnected their rooftop air and went to a stand alone unit, I would have eliminated something (they wouldn't tell me what) that makes the entire coach work as a system and I couldn't use the thermostat I have to make the heat work.

I need the heat to work.

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Maybe this link will help!

3107904.025_DometicDuoTherm3107541.009-3107541.017-3107546.008AnalogTermostatControlKits_SPL_AMER(en)_2000_01.pdf

Riichard, I appreciate the redirect, I took a look and it talks about the two blue wires to the heat, that I do not have in my feed. Take a look at the photo I posted, there are no blue wires. I think I'm stuck here.

16 hours ago, BradHend said:

If it’s just 4 wires (yellow,black,green,white), then it is intended to be 2 wires for positive and negative,  and 1 pair for communication. Therefore not able to jump it out unfortunately. 

Brad, there are six wires, please see the pictures of the thermostat I posted at the beginning of this thread. And given how many combinations I've tried over the last few months, I believe you are correct, there is no way to jump it, we will see if anyone else has an F53 Gas Chassis, I'm learning from everyone who has the DP, that the gas coaches were wired very different for the AC/Heat system. As I mentioned before, Dometic told me directly it wasn't going to work, and "Good Luck" trying to make it work. There is not black wire at all in the system, I would think positive and ground should fire it off, but it doesn't.

klcdenver, If you read my initial post I wasn't trying to work the AC off the Dometic Thermostat. I have that all sorted out with the remote that came with the Rec Pro unit. I'm trying to get heat. I have read all the previous posts on this subject, here on this helpful website and none of them answer my question. Thanks for the suggestion, I think you missed the question I was asking.

BradHend, no the fan does not come on, nothing with the Atwood Furnace works, nothing at all. So my question to you is, there are six wires, which ones am I jumping to make the heat work?

I appreciate any help related to the question I asked, I'm at a dead end, the analog thermostat should work as a switch and just turn the heat on, HOWEVER, after speaking with Dometic at length, they tell me there is no way to make the Dometic Thermostat work independent of being in a circuit with the Dometic AC unit, that I no longer have.

I don't know what wires I should try to jump, and Dometic offered no help at all besides telling me it wouldn't work any more.

6 hours ago, klcdenver said:

Which Houghton model have you installed? I have the A3800 and I do not think it will interface with a Dometic thermostat. You have to use the remote or install Houghton wall pad controller.

I suggest you look at previous post under AC, Heating , and Cooling titled Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead. 

6 hours ago, BradHend said:

If it came down to it you could always jump the terminals at the unit as needed  

Hello everyone. We have the good luck to have an 05 Monarch 30PDD on an F53 Chassis. 

Last year the Dometic 13,500 roof AC unit decided it did not like us any longer, and just quit the job.

We replaced it with the Rec Pro Houghton Unit and it seems to work okay, this will be our first real summer season putting it to the test. 

Out problem is the Thermostat no longer controls the heat. I have read all the blogs I could find and watched all the YouTube videos on this problem. People say they upgrade to a basic digital thermostat or rewire the original analog unit (see pictures attached for what we have). I've tried 20 different wiring descriptions on the digital unit and the 5 different ways to rewire the analog unit. Nothing, Nada, Nope, none of the combinations work. 

The new AC is independent of the original system, just need AC run to it and it works with a remote thermostat. 

However we are out for our first trip of the year and we do not have heat.

Does anyone know the solution on how to handle this dilemma, I can't find anything that works here, I can't even find what wires to cross just to make sure the heat works without the thermostat and we are cold at night.

Help?

Just to wrap up this post, we finally found the Chassis Disconnect switch, (not thanks to the owner's manual). It was on the fire wall in the engine compartment right up at the very top of the fire wall. Found out when I changed the Chassis Battery out, made the connections, looked up with the flash light and there was Waldo. Everything is much better now, well not world politics, but I can at least turn the Chassis Battery off and keep it from always going dead. Thanks to all for the advice.

14 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I know exactly what Rex meant and while we don't notice it, the PCM is learning your driving style and adjusting its fuel table. It doesn't hurt anything but possibly MPG but it also has a set of tests for a number of subsystems that need to internally pass before you can pass emissions inspection, if required. These need time and certain specific driving conditions before the OBD2 screen goes green. That's all.

Ivan, I completely understand, I wasn't aware the gas motors had the same learning curve, and we do not have to pass smog/emissions in New Jersey, over 10K and the unit is considered self inspect. And really what I was wondering was, since the battery goes dead so often, isn't this situation happening to me on a regular basis anyway, without a cut off switch?? And even though it's a gasser, I'm finding the systems in this coach are way more complicated than out old Fiver that served us so well for so long. But the DW had to have a Class A...

16 hours ago, Rex schmeckpeper said:

If you disconnect the engine battery you have to drive about 40 to 60 miles for the engine computer to re-learn all the parameters.  Don't do this if you have to get it smog tested,  it will not pass.

Rex the battery goes dead if you leave it sit for more than 7-10 and I do mean dead. So isn't that the same thing as having a battery disconnect? The Ford V-10 and paired transmission appear to work the same after I put a charge on the battery and drive it? I'm not sure it's relearning anything, unless it never learned it to start with. Driven it 3 hours, 150+ miles after each time the battery goes dead, doesn't seem to be an issue?

Thanks for the help.

We only have one Salesman switch and it only turns off the 12VDC to the coach. I believe a Knife Switch is what I need. Unfortunately, go figure these 30' Short buses are unusual. When the Chassis battery goes dead the steps stop working, go figure.

Craggar - We had a Fiver for 10 years, so this is our first Class A, that being said I am familiar with the Salesman Switch, it does not stop the Chassis battery from discharging when the coach is sitting. We even have it attached to a land line, the Coach batteries stay nice, charged fully, but the Chassis battery keeps going to zero, even with a new battery installed. There is a parasitic draw, which I'm sure is draining it. I've seen a few post mounted disconnects for the Chassis battery, I'm considering that when we have to leave it for more than a week. I'm not sure what might not work if I turn it off from the battery terminal though, I believe the only thing that may be an issue is the steps, however they will be locked open while we are leaving it in storage, so we can go in and out. We've been remodeling for 8 months now, only been out once to discover that not only did the fridge not work (we replaced with Norcold N10DCSSR - Love it by the way) but the air was a worthless lump on the roof also. So we've replaced that with a Recpro Houghton unit and we're getting ready to go out for 5 weeks. We're really tired of having to jump it after 7-10 days because the Chassis battery keeps going down. Salesman switch seems to mostly work for the Coach 12VDC, I know it didn't work to be a gatekeeper for the Chassis battery. Thank you for the suggestion though.

Greetings, I'm looking for insight from 30' Gas Monaco owners. We have a 2005 30PDD Monarch, Ford Chassis, in the owners manual it tells me there is a Chassis disconnect in the compartment in front of the door on the Curb Side of the Coach. We don't have a compartment in front of the door on a thirty footer. There is just the door and the wheel well (see pic for reference). Does anyone know where the disconnect is? We've emptied all the compartments (found the Coach disconnect in the battery bay) and searched extensively in the engine compartment. Again we cannot find the Chassis disconnect and our Chassis battery goes dead every two weeks or sooner, really annoying. Any help on the Where's Waldo of Chassis disconnect switches.