Gene Y

1 hour ago, Frank Bergamo said:

Gene,

Yes, the charging system goes through the Big Boy. On mine, the left big terminal on the bottom of the Big Boy comes from the alternator chassis side. The right big terminal comes from shore/generator house side. When working properly, both big terminals should have the same voltage on each side. Check voltage on positive terminal on back of alternator or at chassis batteries. Should be 13.8-14 volts if charging. Hope this helps.

Thanks I will check this out today. 

15 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

I would check the voltage on the left lug of the BigBoy and then start the engine and retest. The voltage should increase by more than 1 volt… ideally closer to 14. If no change then the alternator is suspect but make sure the regulator on it is getting 12+ volts before deciding it’s bad.

Once the voltage gets above 13.3, the BIRD will energize the Big Boy and tie both battery banks together.

Something I will try tomorrow as we will be moving from 1 campsite to another then. 

Thanks 

14 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK....from the TOP.  Here is what I think or have a pretty confident IDEA is going on.  First some tests..

Shore OFF  Engine OFF.  If someone can turn off or trip the breaker at the pedestal and you stand back where the BIg Boy (yes...it is a REAL Big Boy), then it should go CLUNK or drop out pretty quickly.  HOPE it does.  OK...turn on your headlights for maybe 10 minutes or so...without being on shore and NO ENGINE running.  This takes off a bit of the charge....DON'T worry...a simple Jumper cable between the two banks (positive only) will get it restarted...should the chassis be that low.

OK....start the engine after the headlights were off.  In a few minutes, you should hear the Big Boy go CLUNK.  and it, in both cases, will HUM.  The Hum is the fact that the control board (R6 on some...would have to look at your prints) is sending out a pulsed signal.  The board sends out maybe 20 to 50 pulse of PURE 12 VDC per SECOND.  OK....do the math..  Lets say 20 pulses.  That is a pulse DURATION (ON and OFF and back ON again) of 50 Milliseconds (1000 divided by 20).  SO, then the ON portion of the Pulse will be around 32 Milliseconds...or 2/3's of the total Pulse.  If you put a VOM on the terminals (small ones) on the Big Boy, it would read around 8 Volts.  EIGHT (8) is 2/3rds of 12 VDC.  So, in effect, your VOM is averaging the voltage and will measure (roughly) 8 Volts.  

NOW...WHY.  The Big Boy is NOT rated for continuous 12 VDC current....held on (as in holding on the BOOST switch), you will burn up the coil in maybe a few minutes.  YES, some don't understand and have actually fried the Big Boy with the old golf T wedged trick.  That works for OLDER solenoids that were 100% 12 RATED or Continuous Duty...NOPE the BIG BOY ain't.  9 Volts is the limit.  My Camelot system uses a different controller and it only puts out an average of a little over 3 Volts and it works fine.  It actually RUNS cooler (not as hot to the touch) and is quitter.  SO...you hear HUMMING on Shore.  GREAT.  Now you should hear HUMMING when the Engine is running.  NO HUM...no CHARGE the House from the Alternator.  

OK...what if NO HUM.  Only ONE thing, most likely, has happened.  Someone, unknowingly, replaced the Chassis Battery cut off switch with the WRONG one.  BOTH your Cut Off switches must have TWO big studs and two little terminals.  if you see wires behind the switch not hooked up...odds are, if you connect them, it will Hum.  The Humming from the Shore tells me the Board is getting power and the house switch is a 4 "terminal" switch and is correct.  Don't take that for granted...LOOK.

OK...If you have HUM....then you need to go forward.  First....with nothing ON and NO shore...no engine...measure on either side of the Big Boy.  Measure to GROUND.  That should be around 12.5 VDC...assuming all batteries are charged.  NOW...  flip on the pedestal.  CLUNK goes the Big Boy....and it starts to HUM and gets hot (you can NOT hold your hand on it unless all the nerve endings are dead.  It IS supposed to be that hot).  NOW, repeat your measurement.  The House will probably be in the 13's or maybe upper 13's.  Whatever the Inverter Remote is showing...you should see that...maybe no more than 2/10 (0.20 VDC) difference.  IF one side is still showing 12.5 or so...then that has to be the CHASSIS and the Big Boy's contacts are bad.  There is a HOW TO in the Files....on how to disassemble and clean it.  Folks that can't install an air filter in a modern car have easily pulled it apart and cleaned the contacts.  Frank McElroy wrote a great article.

NOW...if the Big Boy ain't working or Humming when the engine is running (and NO SHORE), then final test.  Have someone on hand that can push the Boost Button.  The Big Boy should go CLUNK.  The Chassis side will show the increased voltage from the alternator...in the high 13's....but it might take a few minutes for the intake heaters to shut off...so measure maybe 3 minutes or even 5.  THEN the full charging voltage.  NOW...measure the OTHER side again.  Should be LOW...maybe in the 12's or lower.  Have someone PUSH the BOOST...measure the voltage....it should NOT change on the Chassis but the House should show the same voltage.  BOTH voltages should be within 0.05 (5 Hundredths) of a volt...otherwise the contacts are pitted and corroded and need to be cleaned.

IF the board does NOT work and the BIg Boy ain't humming when the engine is running....PROBLEM.  NOW, what you SHOULD DO...is to have a LOAD on the house...so tell the person to stop (let off on the Boost).  Then turn on all the interior lights and run the ceiling fans....that will then need to have the HOUSE recharged...and the inverter does NOT have power.

Then push BOOST...then you should have same voltage.  UNTIL you run the tests....we can't help you as you need to do the step by step troubleshooting...so do it and post...

Something that will probably need to wait until we get home. Still 10 days away. This is the step by step I was looking for. One issue may be the listening for the hum with the engine running. Engine exhaust is straight piped and is rather loud. Big Boy is directly above it. I read Frank's step by step on cleaning the contacts and am prepared to do that when we return home. I think my confusion comes from whether the batteries are able to be charged while on shore power if the Big Boy is corrupted. 

Don't see a finned isolator . Here is pic , thanks. 

Forgot to mention, currently on shore power. Can hear the BB humming. 

Not sure of charging sequence. Batteries will charge when on shore power, both chassis and house. 

Does that charging sequence go thru the Big Boy?

If so,  does that indicate that the Charging system is operating properly. 

With engine running the batteries are not charging, suspect I need to check for output from the alternator. Replaced it last year with Neville Lucce (spelling wrong)type alternator. Had been working perfectly on long 2 month trip until 2 weeks ago. 

Could someone provide a step by step on checking the charging system. 

Thanks 

I removed my muffler (full of holes) and installed a straight exhaust I picked up at a truck repair facility. It was intended to be installed as a straight up exhaust on a semi. Goes from 5" to 7" all chrome and truly straight. Had to build a new support system for it and ran it straight out the back. Had to modify the fiberglass where it exits from under the rig. Saw the same exhaust at a chrome shop on I-40 in Texas last year. Has a beveled tip, looks and sounds awesome! It's a little dirty right now. On a trip for the past 2 months!

Interesting stuff for sure. You now have me wondering whether my genny has an alternator and if so is it working. Because a lot of times when I have the generator running and go to start the engine the generator will shut down. Not every time though.

Just in case this might help.

In my 03 Signature that load shedding device is located in the cabinet that houses the bedroom TV

12 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Now that may be the best game plan yet!!!!    We're on our way,   maybe.  Gotta check with the boss.   🧐

 

13 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

At this point, @Gene Y, time for you to do some reading.  Monaco does not have the 2003 Signature owner manual online.  Next up, they don’t have the 2003 Signature sales brochure.  I did download the 2004 Signature manual.  Now way to know if yours is the sane.  This is where it really gets interesting.  The 2004 Sig came with a 12.5 KW system.  That is totally different than the 10Kw that I and maybe others thought you had….so…back to basics.  
 

What Genny do you have?  10 KW or 12.5 KW?  Verify in the manual and also on the name plate on the generator.  For the sake of NOT giving you  good or bad information, we need that. If you have the 12.5KW, then it has an alternator and all of our comparisons to the models with 10Kw units was for naught.  So we need that….otherwise folks, like me, will make assumptions or guess and that only causes you, as well as others, more confusion…..

Next up, pull your manual.  There are, in the 2004 Sig Manual, two different Inverter controls.  One of them has an option to “take full control” of the generator from the Inverter.  See the pictures below.  You need to read the sections and determine exactly what type of remote that you have.  Then, scroll through the program and write down what option or parameter is set for every function.  Keep that.

NOW….reread the section of set up again.  Ben makes a good point.  If your system is programmed for the “Inverter Remote” is king, then you need to fully understand what that means.  We rarely can find the owner’s manuals for the Xantrex/Trace older inverters, so we can’t read and help you.

I suggest you call the friend that did the setup….AFTER you read and start to understand, and ask him to coach you or help you out.

Bottom line, we have more information and knowledge of the Magnum inverter systems.  The folks that chimed in about the same symptoms on the newer Dynasty and such have a different inverter.  The Magnum inverter and Remote are STAND ALONE.  The factory wired buttons for operating the Generator work regardless of where the generator was started.  The Magnum AGS is just like a parallel startup.  There is no “turning over all the generator control” to the inverter.  Going out on a limb….and totally without, now, enough information….

IF there is an issue with your Remote….I’m lost.  If I repeat what you told us…

Generator runs fine in camp.  What we do NOT KNOW is how the remote works.

It appears from what you said earlier that NOT having the generator ON and then cranking the engine resolved that.  So, if you have the 10KW, that makes sense. BUT, if you have the 12.5 KW….NOPE….as it has, we are told, an alternator.  My advice.  Don’t run the Generator and then crank the engine.

Next up is the “opps….forgot and started it from the controls” and friend said to use the Inverter.  That one is a mystery to me as that is a feature and controls that few have and we know how to help troubleshoot the Magnum AGS….and Magnum Inverter.  I can’t tell you with 100% confidence that we have never seen one of the older Magnum AGS module act up and shut down a Generator, but in 14 years, I don’t recall reading about one….

As to the first exchanges…..I am of the opinion that probably you do NOT have any Generator issues….therefore tracking down a non existent mechanical issue was not advised. 

After you get more information and learn and….if you have the “take total control” remote, I would disable that.  Then stsrt anduse the generator.  Then, if I needed the AGS, i would set the remote for that function only and not try to “do it all from there”…

Let us know what you learn and find out….

 

Hard to argue with that label.  I’m sure you have looked at the model label as well.  Onan labels both of them as QD 10000.  Monaco left out my genny manual.  I’ve been going by the SN On the build sheet.  I guess when I pull it out later in the summer, l’ll check.

Thanks

Thought I had put in my original post that the genny is 12500k. Seems kind of crazy that the inverter remote is set up so that once you give it control of the generator starting and stopping functions you can no longer use any of the other switches to control the system, but I'm pretty sure that's the way it functions. Anyway it's functioning as intended and I will get into the way it is set up and change it to a setup that works for me.

Thanks to all of you for your help!

15 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Gene, where is that?  I wanna go there!!

We just today relocated from Eastern Quebec along the St. Lawrence River to Prince Edward Island. Expected high temp tomorrow 73F. Getting back to the original issue, I tried something new today. It was a little warm while driving so I decided to attempt running the AC again while driving. Had been on the road for approx 2.5 hrs, started the genny while rolling, it shut down before I even attempted to start the AC. Continued to drive for another 1.5 hrs. when we came upon a pull off along the Salmon River. Lovely spot where we took our lunch break. Upon restarting the coach for departure I had the idea to start the generator using the inverter remote panel. Generator started and ran well. After allowing the 5 minute warm up I started the AC. After it's normal wait period it came on and ran for the rest of the drive. This is what I think is going on, last year at the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta I had a friend set up my AGS. Had forgotten that he advised me to only start the genny from the Inverter remote panel. Not sure how or why that works but I'm looking forward to trying it again when the opportunity presents itself. We do plan on returning to the US in September where I'm sure we will run into higher temps. Anyway enjoy the weather in the States if that is where you are. Right now we're trying to chase the comfortable weather. Haven't run the AC for the past 5 days except for today while on the road.

Awesome Tom, wishing I had half of the knowledge that you have. I will be following your suggestion at my next opportunity. Where we are at right now there is no need to run the house AC while driving.

Thanks again!

3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Comments about LOW battery and where it cranks are interesting.  Monaco did it totally different and then swapped around.  Typically, the Generator was supposed to crank off the House Bank.  That is so you can use the battery boost as the Generator will or can be charging the House Bank and get you going. 

EDITED....after some thought....  OK...when you said ALL IS WELL.  Did you TOTALLY load up the Generator with three AC's (if you have them) and run it for some time to clean the brushes.  Your three items was only about 50% (Don't know what the Inverter was pulling) of the load.  You need to run the generator as close to full load....adding in the two other AC's and then run for a few hours.  That will clean the brushes and keep you in good shape.  MAY NOT BE THE PROBLEM....but it needs to be done....

I had TWO issues with my system.  One was a GROUND stud issue.  Genny would NOT start. I used Jumper cables and started it directly with cables to the back terminals.  GREAT.  Ran fine.  Would NOT restart without them.  I found out there was corrosion on the battery ground studs behind the battery box.  Fixed...NO ISSUES.  The other was when I was on SHORE.  I started the Genny....and then tripped the pedestal breaker and unhooked.  OPPS.  Genny was not warmed up.  The AC load switched and both came on.  Waited a while after driving.  Restarted the Genny and then brought on one AC....then the other.  GREAT.  SO....that is a lesson in WHAT NOT TO DO....   Read the rest.... END OF EDIT.

First....  Turn off the Chassis Bank.  Will the Generator crank or start to crank?  If so, then the House is starting the Generator. 

Second.  Turn back ON the Chassis and turn OFF the House.  Then run your cranking test.  I looked at the High Current prints for a 2004, but the way Monaco does the prints, I can't trace them.  our set is a bit "light" or faded.

OK....Now that you know WHICH battery cranks....it might be time to read the manual again.  Is there a warning about keeping the Generator ON while Cranking.

Next TEST, as Rocketman says.  Turn off the Generator.  Crank the Engine.  Get rolling and wait a few minutes.  Then crank the generator and wait and then load it up as you drive.  If that works OK....then you know that the Alternator seems to be OK.  I THOUGHT you had an Alladin.  There are screens for voltage and current.  You need to read up on that and see what is going on.

Past that, until you do some experimenting....then it is strictly subjective.  From what you said, everything, when at a CG and using the Generator works.  IS THAT CORRECT?  If so, then that would eliminate Fuel issues. 

You also need to know that the Generator does not have an Alternator.  The Power to run the Generator (keep it running) comes from the Starting Battery lugs.  MANY TIMES, and this impacted me, a POOR GROUND in the system will cause issues.  SO, chasing that down is fairly easy.  You follow the Negative Cables from the battery box(s) to the ground studs.  You either remove all the cables (one stud at a time) and clean or you loosen the nut slightly, just so the cables will wiggle side to side, and then do that.  That abrades or cleans the terminals.  There are two Ground studs on the back...One for Chassis and one for House. There is at least ONE or maybe two up front.  You need to be under the MH and see where the Negative cable to the generator goes.  Clean that one.  Whilst there...loosen BOTH the positive and negative on the rear or wherever the DC cables are attached.  Clean the terminals and the studs.  Put back on.  DO NOT OVERTIGHEN.  These are brass studs and if you "lay down on them..." there is a chance (I have been TOLD...) that one will break.  So the old trick of just "TIGHTENER UP" results in replacing the stud...

OK....Lot of possibilities.  IF you drive and load up the Generator like you did and all is well, then there is a voltage problem somewhere....as Rocketman said.  I can tell you that the board on the 10/12 KW is not the most robust.  So, DO NOT CRANK THE GENNY with the Engine running.  

One simple test....if you have jumper cables and are in the CG.  Put a Jumper between the POSITIVES of the Batteries.  Start the Generator.  Then, as I understood you to say, when you started the Engine with the Generator running, it would NOT stay running.  If that is STILL the issue....then STOP.  NOW.  Wait a few minutes.  Maybe the NEXT DAY.  Add a Jumper to the NEGATIVES.  Leave the Positive ON ALSO.  Now start the Genny just like you did when the problem occurred.  Now start the Engine.  IF you have NO issues....then you have a GROUND issue and you need to clean all the GROUNDS....on the Chassis (there are many....4 on mine....more on yours?.  You also need to clean the battery terminals.  If that does not fix it....then someone with a VOM and knowledge needs to start troubleshooting.  This is a bit involved....so not going there now.

Try the above....let us know. 

Sounds like a plan Tom, my mistake on not totally loading the generator after warming up the generator. Will try that first. The rig did originally have the Aladdin system but at some point PO changed it to a different system and it is in inoperable. I like the suggestion to shut off chassis batteries to determine which starts the generator. Pretty sure it starts off chassis batteries but need to know for sure.

Thanks again!

On 7/5/2023 at 4:05 PM, Tom Cherry said:

No sense in tearing apart something that ain’t broke.  Since you have eliminated a faulty or presumed faulty AC…I’d stay with the simple basics.  At CG, unplug shore.  Turn off inverter.  Start genny.  Let it run for several minutes….at least 5.  Start loading it up one load at a time.  You have got 5 devices to do a load test…3 AC, Microwave and Charger.  Start one at a time….let it run at least 15 minutes….then add one.  AC’s are easiest.  If it dies or sputters or won’t run….MAYBE fuel? Air Filter? Or Board.  Read the Generator manual and learn how to get blinking codes….then proceed.

If it runs and you can keep building, then don’t push it.  The heavier the load and the longer you can run OK at that, then good sign.  No guarantees….but dirty brushes are a common complaint.  I don’t know if there is a code for that, but letting it run and building up a load is positive.  You might want to check the OIL LEVEL.  There is a cutoff for that.  When you get to CG, check the oil level.   Then proceed…

Good Luck…

Sorry for the delayed response, currently in a somewhat remote area of Canada along the St. Lawrence River.

This morning I ran the generator for over an hour as suggested. Had no problems with it running, all loads turned off. I then started the front AC and it ran with no issues. Still no issues after turning on the inverter then the electric water heating element. Thought I was good to go. Ready to leave campground I started up the engine, generator shut down and would not stay running after multiple attempts of starting.

So what does this point to? Weak chassis batteries? Alternator not putting out enough power? Big Boy relay faulty? Or none of the above?

Thanks again for your help!

On 7/5/2023 at 9:21 PM, 96 EVO said:

When was the last time it got a fresh fuel filter?

They will last a long time due to the pickup about 1/3 way up the tank............... but not forever!

Replaced fuel filter 6 months ago but I do have another one if needed. Thanks 

3 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Fuel filter?    Does it die with each AC unit individually?

Have only tried the front unit.

3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Recall when my front AC start capacitor had a meltdown, it was pulling huge amps everytime the compressor tried to start!

Is your AC's running fine on shore power?

Yes it runs fine on shore power!

3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Basic assumption.  I once did a “swap” and the generator tried to start and run with a 50% load.  UGLY.  I let the generator “rest” for maybe half and hour.  Then restart with NO AC load….ran for maybe 30 minutes.  All the load was just topping off the batteries.  If your batteries were down and 3 AC ON, that is close to 80% of the rating….if you have the 10Kw unit.

If it has stopped there may be an error code.  But if you kill all the loads….you will have to go into the Magnum set up and reduce the charge rate to maybe 10%….

Let it idle….then bring on loads progressively.  Your 10 KW may have crappy brushes….so it is not putting out 100%.  The “fix” for that….  Let it get warmed up.  Then one AC at a time.  Leave the magnum at reduced load or just turn off the Charger section.  There is a button that says charger. If you see the CHG light on….push the button.  That kills the charger section.  However, with the Genny running. You have AC POWER.  LET it run for maybe 30 minutes…bring on another AC…REPEAT.  Waiting 30minutes….once all 3AC ON….wait 30 minutes….turn on charger.  You can cook and use the microwave.

you need to run the Generator for several hours at 50 - 75% of load.  Do that every 6 - 9 months.  That will clean and burnish the brushes.

NOTE….This is for a 220 VAC 10 or 12 KW GENERATOR.  The 7.5 or 8 KW DOES NOT have brushes….

If you still have issues….new air filter.  Easy to do.  Then a new fuel filter….need 2 pairs of PINCH pliers or two pairs of Vice Grips and rags to pinch off fuel dripping when you replace.

Past that….read the manual and get codes.  The 10/12 Kw are prone to the main control board getting wet or failing.  Many rebuilt ones. Lots of reputable and knowledgeable techs always have a rebuilt and/or maybe a new one in their truck.  

Thats the drill

Just to clarify, this occured with engine running and on the road. So I'm assuming that the alternator was charging the batteries. The batteries were actually fully charged when we left last campground. Will try some of those remedies. Has been awhile since I used the generator for power.

Thanks Tom

Generator stalling under load.

Generator will start and run, when the AC tries to start the generator dies! Have checked the coolant level and it is fine.

Looking for ideas,

Thanks 

On 7/3/2023 at 6:07 PM, wamcneil said:

Have y'all seen this?

LockNFlate Locking Air Chuck - Six Steel Jaws Lock onto Any tire Valve - Won't Leak or pop Off - Rated to 150 PSI

It's an air chuck from the LockNLube folks that have a similar locking grease coupler.

I'd tried locking air chucks several times in the past and have always been disappointed and went back to a regular press-on chuck. This thing is pretty expensive for a tire chuck, but I must say that I'm loving this locknflate !

Instead of two thin blades of sheetmetal to grab the threads and hold the valve stem inside the chuck, it's got 6 threaded fingers, kind of like an internally threaded collet. These fingers each engage several threads on the valve stem and pull it securely up against the seal. 

For regular car tires I wouldn't care that much. But It's a real pain to hold a chuck on those bus tires...

I splurged and put the locknflate on a new Milton digital inflator.

Cheers,

Walter

That looks awesome, thanks for sharing! It is a real PITA to use a press on chuck.

On 6/20/2023 at 8:41 AM, wamcneil said:

TE Connectivity / AMP Mate-n-Lock connectors

That is the supplier that I have used!

In our previous toad we had the Roadmaster Invisibrake which operates off of an electronic signal. Out of necessity we pulled it with our Armada. Using the same 7 pin trailer plug as our RV has we had braking on the toad same as when pulling with the RV

5 hours ago, Just Jim said:

My new to me 03 Executive has the key pad by the door and a door bell button.  I do not have any key fobs or know any codes.  I don't particularly give a hoot about a security system, but do like the idea of keyless entry with a key fob or pushing buttons by the door.  Is it possible to buy new fobs and program them to the coaches existing system?  Other than the key pad I have no idea where any of the hard ware is located as in transmitters, security system, etc.  ... help would be appreciated on that too.  Regarding the door bell...  help there would be appreciated too...  where is the bell, etc.?

I don't know the answers to your questions, however I did discover that the best resource to deal with these issues is a company that deals with electronic security systems. Unfortunately I have not had time to get mine operational and my coach is now 600 miles away, will not see it again until July. Good Luck!

On 5/16/2023 at 9:43 AM, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

What is the attraction of Buc-ees? Low fuel costs?

Gary 05 AMB DST

Yes, low fuel costs are part of the attraction. Gasoline at the one in Florence $2.67 when we were there last weekend. A lot of it is the buzz, won't last forever. 

18 hours ago, Gene Y said:

Air seal will not release when I open the door. This occurs whether engine running or not running. As a consequence I cannot close the door. Have to use the deadbolt to hold it closed. Where should I look to rectify.

Thanks 

So, doing some investigating I found that one of the 2 magnets on the door at the bottom looked a little wonky. Removed it at and could hear a clicking sound in the genny compartment, air released from the seal.  Have re-installed the magnet but have yet to test the system as we are in the process of preparing for a trip. 

Hoping that this will resolve the issue. Will update when I know more. 

Thanks for your suggestions!

Was at the Buc-ee's in Florence SC Sunday. (Not with coach) Place was a madhouse, no parking, virtually a circus. Lines for the bathroom, lines for checkout from front of store to the back. Driving home to Virginia with new to us toad we picked up in Florida. Someone parked next to us and damaged front fender in 3 places. 

The road getting in and out was a backup similar to LA freeways. Very brave guys and gals pulling their TT's, 5th wheels, and class A's into this madhouse. 

Have sworn them off, never again!

Air seal will not release when I open the door. This occurs whether engine running or not running. As a consequence I cannot close the door. Have to use the deadbolt to hold it closed. Where should I look to rectify.

Thanks 

9 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Gene it’s located inside behind the evaporator cover. Also in the freezer section same place. Here is a picture of the refrigerator section. I’m replacing fridge that’s why I’m able to show these pics. 

Thanks for the help on this, will try to get that corrected. Quite a PITA to remove the sheet of ice from under the bins.

23 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Gene, are you getting water & ice collecting UNDER the crisper bins?

If you are, then that is a completely different and easily fixable problem.

I was one of the first original owners of the RF-197 in my previous Windsor back in 2012 who had that very same problem within 6 months of installation.  A Samsung Warranty Service call remedied any possibility of it ever happening again in either the fridge or freezer. The service tech installed upgraded Defrost Clips in both the fridge and freezer compartments.

My Samsung RF-197 fridge in our Dynasty did not have the upgraded Defrost Clip either so I ordered one and installed it prior to leaving on our summer trip last year.

Thanks for the info, does it apply to the RF18 also?

10 hours ago, Jim Pratten said:

The defrost clip mentioned is popular item on eBay.  Search for DA61-06796A Refrigerator Clip.

It's a fairly easy install with the bonus of getting to clean out your refrigerator.

Do you have to get to the back of the refrigerator in order to replace this part?

12 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Gene, are you getting water & ice collecting UNDER the crisper bins?

If you are, then that is a completely different and easily fixable problem.

I was one of the first original owners of the RF-197 in my previous Windsor back in 2012 who had that very same problem within 6 months of installation.  A Samsung Warranty Service call remedied any possibility of it ever happening again in either the fridge or freezer. The service tech installed upgraded Defrost Clips in both the fridge and freezer compartments.

My Samsung RF-197 fridge in our Dynasty did not have the upgraded Defrost Clip either so I ordered one and installed it prior to leaving on our summer trip last year.

Thanks for the info, does it apply to the RF18 also?

20 hours ago, hex_nut said:

Todd

The failure point in the RF18 fridge defrost circuit is most commonly the small thermal fuse that Samsung encapsulated in a plastic bubble to seal it from moisture.  The plastic bubble fails and then the thermal fuse fails.  If you have not as yet replaced that part of the wiring harness, I suggest you try that before you give up on it.

Richard

Inclined to believe that this is the issue with my RF18. Constantly have freezing under the mid level storage bins. Where would I find this thermal fuse. And where would I find a replacement?

Thanks