diplomat don

1 hour ago, Scotty Hutto said:

AM Equipment is the OEM. Here is a thread on them:

 

AM equipment didn't necessarily make all the wipers for Monaco even though they were just the road from Coburg. While at FMCA regional rallye last summer went to the factory with wiper arm for 2005 HR Imperial and they didn't manufacture for them that year. Very helpful but lady in the office took one look at the arm and said it wasn't one of theirs. Looked thru the computer and couldn't find who was but said they could probably make one but declined and kept looking. Thought having a one of built might be a little costly. If someone is going to try AM I would suggest sending picture and see if they were th manufacturer. Good luck to the original poster. Don

22 hours ago, Hancoman said:

Decided to go with a residential refrigerator going to be installed first week in May. I am guessing this is the original refrigerator so it lasted 23 years. If anyone is looking for parts let me know.

 

Tom

Tom do you have the 1200 4 door fridge? I see you are in the Seattle area and I have a friend in Shoreline who is looking for the big right door due to broken hinge mounting area and I might be interested in some interior items. Thanks Don.

23 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Hmm, that's an odd one!

It would have to be loading / unloading the compressor, repeatedly.

Frank is correct as I have seen same or similar issues over my career. Ben I don't know where the air is going but the compressor can be working fine just doesn't build pressure. First thing to try is a hammer, hit the governor several times, not hard enough to break it but can knock some grit or whatever loose and the valve woks fine. Cheaper and easier than replacing the governor. Experience of 43 years and 4 million miles driving truck. 

Randy not sure on your coach as was built by Navistar, however my 05 Imperial is very clear in the manual. Slides out first while still aired up then level. My leveling is 3 hydraulic jacks, always the front single jack first the the two rear jacks. This allows the chassis to pivot on the front while leveling the rear. Don't know what Navistar was using for jacks after they took over. Hope this helps as every manufacturer does things differently. Good luck, Don

19 hours ago, Donflem said:

That’s what I was thinking too you did yours in 2018. I’m going to contact Eurton and see if the have 1 or having them do a rebuild. I will keep you informed. Thanks to everyone.

Don

Don when I looked into Eurton last year they normally don't have larger stators on the shelf but they claim only a week turn around once they receive it. Chances they would have it done before Onan could ship it if they have one in stock and cheaper too. Mine was a 10 k. Good luck,Don

Don you also listed stator-rotor in the things needed repair. If this is the case there is a place in Santa Fe Springs called Eurton Electric that rewinds rotor/stators. They did mine and shop that repaired my generator said cheaper and faster than new from Onan due to supply issues at the time. Supply issues seems to be the excuse most popular at this time. To answer a earlier post rotor/stator were badly burnt and 10 kw genny only had 309 hours at 18 years old. Took the Onan seminar at the FMCA Rally at Tucson and the presenter again stressed exercising your generator under half load. Cheaper to use the fuel than pay the repair costs. Good luck Don

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15 hours ago, Venturer said:

The film on the front of our 06 Executive is ok except the top panel above the top of the generator roll-out door. The edge next to the windshield has pealed back a bit and the paint is faded. I've watched a few videos on removing the film but want to know what people in the real world have done to remove the film. Did Monaco use 3-M or Diamond Shield, as I understand each has a different removal process?  As I mentioned, I only have to do the top 12" under the windshield, as the rest still looks good.   

We were at the FMCA Rally at Tucson several weeks ago and had someone knock on my door and talk about film removal. He says they only use steam. They are in Mesa and as you are in Lake Havasu not that far. Quoted me $1600 for my coach. It is called Glue be Gone, 651-206-0766. Gluebegone.net Good luck and hope this helps, Don

Dan that is not a seal just a covering for an aluminum extrusion underneath. It is very flexible and if you need it off it should pull off and be reusable. There is likely caulking along one or both edges. Clean that off and reuse then fresh caulk. I you are having leaks there then likely broken/rusted screws. Comin issue on these vintage of coaches both top and bottom beltlines. Good luck Don

For the straps if you have someone who sews you can buy new strapping and make your own. Wife made all news straps for are 2001 Diplomat with the Omega awning arms as well as for the Patio Awning which had straps inside the arms that rolled it in and out. Don't remember the name of the awning but one of the Carefree models.

I replaced the jackknife  sofa in our old coach with a new airbed sofa from shop4seats.com in the L.A. area. They shipped to Washington. This was about ten years ago was around $1500 delivered. Came apart into 4 pieces to get thru the door. I was happy with it. Good luck, Don

I too have replaced the flush mechanism several years ago. Saw them the other day on Amazon about $150. However when I had a problem again last year I opened the valve with the hand wheel on the back, took a toothbrush, not my own, used dawn dish soap and scrubbed the seal well and VOILA working like a charm. Now what I do is a couple times a year repeat treatment and works great. Seal seems to get gummy and valve blade sticks. We really like the toilet other than for that sticking problem. Oh by the way buy the wife a new toothbrush after scrubbing the toilet.😁

Well Grant you go ahead and call all you want. I am telling you what I did as a truck driver. You never did brakes on any truck I drove but you may have done them on trucks that were driven by people that drove trucks. There is a big difference between people that drive trucks and truck drivers. I have no doubt you did brakes on vehicles with a lot less miles as there were and now a lot of people out there, especially today that drive trucks but are not truck drivers. My coach is now at 90k miles and my drum brakes are at 75\80%. So call all you want as that may be your experience, although I noticed you didn't tell your experience, I gave you mine.

If you are replacing brakes at just over 90k miles you need to change your driving habits. I drove truck for 43 yrs and about 4 million miles and the brakes got done between 250k and 300k miles, mostly in mountains of BC grossing 84k lbs. Some of this was before brakes on the steer axle. Use the exhaust or compression brake, apply brakes firmly to drop 4 or 500 rpm then release brakes to allow to cool. If you have to apply them too often then you are going down a hill too fast. To gaze shoes and drums at those miles riding the brakes too much. As far as the replacement drums I would think they will be fine. Good luck, Don.

Cummins engines will force the dipstick out a little followed by the oil. That is why they have the rubber grommet that you tighten when replacing the dipstick. Later models have catches similar to how the sewer hose connects. Seen this more than once in my 43 yrs of driving truck. Makes a big mess. Don

Bill, for paint I recommend POR 15. Great rust paint, wire brush loose rust off then paint. Expensive but works great, learned about it from the collector car hobby. Just be careful to not leave any in the drip channel when putting the lid back on the can or good luck ever getting the lid off again. Ask me how I know. Good luck, Don

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2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

@diplomat don I am not an expert on driveshafts but I believe his driveshaft is not that long to begin with as the Windsor does not have a tag axle. Plus if only half is missing, I would think the other half would have been flailing around causing all sorts of damage under the coach.

I have been attempting to wrap my head around how one could actually lose an entire driveshaft all at once. To me, In order for that to happen, the U-Joints at both ends would have to fail simultaneously.

This entire thread has been very strange indeed.

I fully understand how short the driveshaft is and it so happens I was under my coach yesterday greasing mine in prep for our Arizona trip. Again I asked the question as you are correct  and I asked because never heard of complete shaft leaving the vehicle. Even with a tag the driveshaft is very short, the slip joint moves very little because of this and the suspension on our coaches. On a truck, longer shaft and type of suspension the slip joint moves much more. Would love to see some pictures and hear back from the OP.

With your new experience of the rusted and perhaps broken screws on the beltline I would recommend looking further as the rest may be badly rusted as well, as that was my experience with my former 2001 Diplomat. Good luck, Don.

I have read all the comments and surprised no one has asked the question of how much of the driveshaft is actually lost. If the cause of the breakage was a u-joint breaking  the other half should still be there. Knowing where the driveshaft broke would help others to know how to help you solve your issue as well let everyone know exactly what happened. In my 43 years of driving truck never heard of loosing complete driveshaft. I also would recommend contacting PPL as they likely could recommend a mobile guy. Good luck, Don

Joe check with visonerv.com as they show a 2002 Windsor. Make sure you send then the measurements and wait a few days and hope they respond. Otherwise start bugging them over the phone. Good luck, Don

I had the same problem with my 10K generator a year ago. Same answer from 

I had the same issue with my 10K generator a year ago. Cummins told me the same thing so seeing we were going south to Arizona for the winter I searched and found a place in Mesa that only does generators, Mesa Precision. They pulled my generator out, sent the rotor and stator to Eurton, rewound both and put it back together. We left the generator with Mesa Precision and carried on with our winter vacation. It was about 6 weeks before it was ready so when we returned to Mesa was about 2 months but reinstalled and all was well. 2 weeks is what Eurton says but with shipping to and from was abut 4 weeks. I think they are only rewinds so would probably need a repair shop to remove and take apart. Mesa Precision was great to work with and I would highly recommend them. Only thing I would recommend if you go the rewind route make sure you have the power wiring checked where it goes into the junction block as I also ended up having that replaced later when I only had power on one leg and ATS wouldn't pass thru to coach. By the way my generator only had 309 hrs on it and the rotor and stator were badly burnt so doesn't seem to matter how much the get used, things go wrong. Good luck Don

There should be a pound rating written on the side of the cylinder. They start around 10 pounds and go up. I have replaced a few and it will depend on the size or the door and weight as well as the style of door. The Navigator will likely have different doors than the Diplomat. Lots of places online to purchase. Good luck.

1 minute ago, Dr4Film said:

I thought the code number on the side depicts exactly how that switch performs based on a Carlings Technology web site I viewed many years ago. It really isn't an actual part number.

I will see if I can locate the web site and repost.

All my switch had was V1D1 think and this covers multiple switches. Both NWRV and the carling tech when I finally got one knew exactly which one I was talking about. Major issue was getting someone to talk to at Carling.

1 hour ago, Michael Powell said:

Does anyone have that switch part number??? Mine has 2 switches that are able to start gen set but the one in the dash just stopped being able to start... Will shut gen set down but no prime or crank function.

Thanks

54 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

The switch part number is on the side of the switch. Remove it, then call Northwest RV Supply in OR to see if they have an exact replacement.

It will be a momentary switch with a certain number of lugs on the back.

https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product-category/switches-bezels/carling-technology-v-series-switch-bases/

Michael Powell 2004 Dynasry

I had a hard time trying to source the dash switch last spring. The number specific number is not on the side of the switch just a generic number which covers many switches. NWRVSupply didn't have them and didn't know when they might get any. The dash switch has 6 wires and the rest of the start switches only have 5 wires. The dash switch has the six so it lights up with the rest when dash lights on.  Had a hard time with carling getting to talk to a tech for the right switch but after multiple times success. I still had the cover so only had to buy the switch. Carling is now owned by Little Fuse {lil fuse}sp so don't know if that had anything to do with it. Good luck.

20 hours ago, K9 Exec said:

Hi Ed, good advice on the forum- you won't go wrong. 🙂

I will add this to the post: I would use full synthetic (any brand) 75w90 gear oil and call it a day. I have a friend in the lubrication analysis business that I trust and have seen the data. Pop the cap, add the oil to the add/full line right below the lip, replace the cap and you are good. You will be good until you have to add it again, which unless you have a leak should be never. Drain then refill  every 300,000-500,000 miles for commercial use or 3-5 years. I would not use dino in this application due to high heat and breakdown, the synthetic is the same cost so it is a win-win. You can buy a quart bottle with the cut top and will be good for both sides typically with a bit to spare. 🙂

Best of luck!

If you experience high heat and breakdown of the gear oil your bearings are too tight. Wheel bearings should never be more than warm to the touch. 43 years and 4 million miles experience. 

Dave, on my 2001 Diplomat 38 the bed slide was nothing like what Jim's is. Lift the bed and it is easily accessible if like mine was. It was more like a worm drive cylinder and not really anything to lube as was a sealed unit. That is if any 2 were the same. Good luck.