RedSectorA
-
Posts
35 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Articles
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Store
Posts posted by RedSectorA
-
-
6 hours ago, vanwill52 said:
#1: Random Oribital polishers were a God-send to folks who do not have the skills of Z-Mike. In my experience, pure rotary polishers are ONLY for professionals. The slightest bit of too much pressure, too little compound or lubricant, or carelessness at an edge or corner, and you may have done irreparable damage. If you lift a RA polisher from the surface, and it will “run away” and even if re-contacting the paint isn’t catastrophic, you will sling compound EVERYWHERE. I love my COLLECTION of Random-Orbital polishers. I still use them. But now I have something better.
Cutting through the paint with a rotary is more of an urban legend than anything else, I use both RA polishers and rotaries depending on the job at hand without issues. What will damage the paint irreparably is the heat caused by the rotary and you need lots of it to go through the paint. The biggest problem with rotaries is to put too much pressure on the machine which leaves is own set of circular swirl marks or on edges which can damage paint quickly. Japanese cars are more prone to this due to the softness of their paints. In contrast European cars can take a lot of abuse due as they are harder, which explains paint chipping of those cars in northern climates. I used a rotary for the coach as I want to cut faster and I'm less finicky about the finished product although I know it will pass anybody's inspection. I will also use a rotary my European cars except on the last polishing step for darker (ie black) cars where I want to eliminate the last faint residual swirls you can see with a bright light shining at an angle (I'm the guy who throws an hissy fit when someone touches the paint on my cars with their fingers 🤣 ). On Japanese cars I will use an RA polisher sooner due to the softer paint. As far as my MH is concerned a medium cut compound and a rotary with a woolen pad is the furthest I will not polish the top part of the coach every time I do it as most of the damage occurs on the lower portion.
Here's a video of interest on the subject of rotaries, he shows the abuse the paint can take before irreparable damage occurs.
-
On 12/6/2023 at 8:43 AM, zmotorsports said:
Thank you. I've tried a few of the newer products as well but find myself sticking to what's worked for me for 35+ years now. I do however, use the Meguiar's #21 Sealant that I never used in the past as a last step to protect the paint and seem to like it. I'm usually not one for DA polishers and stick with my old Buffmaster orbital polisher. The orbitals are a bit more aggressive than the DA's and I've been using it for decades so maybe that's why I stick with it. Although I do like my Griot's DA polisher for applying the sealant. It really isn't meant to cut per se, but it applies the sealant in a nice even manner and then I wipe it off with a microfiber towel. It's just a bit slow going on that much real estate.
I don't know about anyone else, but there are times when we are in campgrounds and the coach gets water on it from hard rain or the campground's sprinklers and upon arriving home I have had difficulty removing some of the remaining water spots. However, I have found a vinegar/water mixture in a spray bottle works wonders to remove these stubborn water spots, about a 2:1 ratio of water to vinegar works well. A little spritz on the offending area and a wipe with a microfiber towel and the hard water spots are gone.
I used 3M Finesse-It and Perfect-It before I changed to Manzerma, both work well but I found Manzerma to be a little less finicky in colder weather. 3M had a tendency to leave a residue after buffing when the metal (for a car that is) surface is colder than 70F. But that's personal preference. I use Gyon Mohs as ceramic coating on cars as it worked well for me but I'm not ready to invest the time and patience to do the coach, mostly level of buffing necessary for a ceramic coating, with it which is why I use Marine 21 wax yearly. Marine 21 was developed for boating applications which is notorious for water spots, Marine 21 does not prevent them completely but it does reduce them significantly while making them easy to be removed usually just regular wash. Just a thought.
-
2
-
-
I don't think I ever saw anybody else do it but I installed this LG fridge instead of my NoCold 1200:
Width wise it fit in the space perfectly, I had to take out a drawer below the 1200 to make it fit height wise. It's counter depth so only the door protrudes. It runs great, very sizeable and uses an inverter compressor. Only downside is that you need to shut it down while moving, the compressor doesn't like being shaken while in movement and makes a weird noise. No issues for me as I don't intend on driving more than 5 hours and I installed an on and off switch above the fridge. I apologize I did not take the time to take pictures while installing it but it went pretty well. It even went through the RV door (barely though).
Dan
-
1
-
-
This coach probably never got detailed in it's 23 years lifespan. Anyways I used Manzerma 2400 grit polish with a Meguiars pad to give it a shine without going crazy (I go wild on cars but the surface of that coach is too large to do so) followed by Marine 31 wax made specifically for Gel Coats. Renders a nice shine and not too hard to apply. I use Marine 31 wash and wax for it's bath, still applies some wax while washing and specifically made for gel coats.
-
3
-
-
On 8/11/2023 at 4:49 PM, Ivan K said:
I did not have to switch to the Blue Sea unit yet but something feels fishy to me with the RV expert explanation. Isn't your system wired so that the alternator always sees full voltage of at least one set of the batteries directly and regulates accordingly? I would not consider ML-ACR an isolator in respect to alternator hookup but rather a switch that adds or removes the second set and yes, it can require way more amps from your 210A unit when latched but hardly more than it can supply if you don't have some crazy amp demand. And the "inverter conflicting signal" blame is ever weirder to me. Ok, maybe you had generator running while driving and charging the house or maybe both. So what, it would just make it easier on the alternator. Unless I totally misunderstood the ML-ACR function and wiring, I have a problem with their explanation and would suspect plain voltage regulator failure.
Hi Ivan,
I'm no electrical engineer but as mentioned before LN do warn that their 160J2008 alternator somehow does not work with an isolator. I assume the ML-ACR is an isolator so that would make their case. My sense wire is now connected directly to the chassis battery bank so it technically sees one battery only, that was done when I installed the ML-ACR. My initial comment was more to warn that running any alternator (as some have mentioned before) with an ML_ACR does not appear to be true, it may not be as sensitive as the old DUVAC system but I would stay within the parameters of an alternator that's confortable with isolator/dual battery banks.
Inverter conflicting signal is also far fetched to me but again this is not my world of expertise, I've seen a lot of pseudo expert in my life so can't comment on the validity of it. What I understand from all of this is the ML-ACR is some form of isolator and should be treated accordingly in terms of alternator choice.
I skipped over some of the details of why I changed to an ML-ACR but let's just say I was stranded at rush hour in a construction zone to realize my alternator was fried (literally) due to a short which also took out the yellow DUVAC wire (the voltmeter on the dash too). The DUVAC feed to the ignition relay was boiling hot with the thermal breaker popping constantly. Since one of the lower bracket broke when I took the alternator out I had no choice to buy a new alternator. With none DUVAC compatible in Canada I figured I might as well go straight to ML-ACR for simplicity and alternator availability. It was a fun adventure to say the least, truth be told I can take the alternator out in less than 15 minutes now 🙂.
In all honesty I just want it to run and so far it's been doing that and more with the 28SI.
Sorry original thread owner for hijacking your thread.
Dan
-
2 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:
I'm not sure why you chose to use the LN AVI160 210 Amp alternator and then installed any sort of isolator when the Prestolite Website specifically states:
Part Notes : Verify application. Will not work on applications using battery isolators.
Good lesson for all to ensure when replacing parts, especially alternators, to verify they are indeed interchangeable. I can't count the number of times I've helped owners who have purchased the wrong alternator and want to rewire the coach to make it work, or it flat out will not work and they have to buy the correct alternator. Wisdom has shown that rebuilding the original alternator is the best approach to ensure compatibility.
-Rick N.
You're right but when I went to them they guaranteed it was a direct replacement to the 28SI and they had verified fitment. I had not checked suitability. My comment is more to the fact that I often read that you can use any alternator with a Blue Sea ML-ACR when it's not exactly true.
-
1
-
-
On 7/11/2023 at 8:26 PM, vanwill52 said:
3) DUVAC will always be a PITA, as almost NO ONE understands why a "generic" alternator will not work with a Sollid State Isolator. Install the ML-ACR and it won't matter WHAT alternator you use--It will work. Until the DUVAC alternator is replaced, you will always be at the mercy of mechanics who do not understand what the remote sensing is for...and will almost invariably hook up the new alternator incorrectly. With the ML-ACR, even a Klutz mechanic will get it right. There are many more good reasons for the ML-ACR changeover, but precluding problems with needing a very specific alternator will be eliminated.
Just as a warning to the group, after I installed a Blue Sea ML-ACR I hooked up a LN AVI160J2008 210 amp alternator. This alternator is a competitor to the Delco Remy 28SI. It worked fine for 4 hours of drive time but then the regulator blew on it, went back to the place I bought the alternator (they suggested that unit) and confirmed it was defective. After a discussion with an RV expert at the distributor for LN they told me this alternator was not compatible with any type of isolator (according to them even the magnetic kind) and the reason it blew had to do with the inverter conflicting signal to the alternator. I installed a 28Si and after 6 hours of run time it's working well so far.
I have no opinion, just relaying what I was told.
-
2 hours ago, PeterSchweizer said:
Just an FYI a
looks like most of your electrical connections are corroded, so you may want t o go thru all your connectors and grounds and clean them up and seal them so you can avoid lots of issues in the future. And yes there are many! One step at a time - Pay me now of or pay me latter
Hi Peter,
That’s exactly what I was doing today while changing the isolator and maintainer, everything is nice and clean/ protected now. I forgot to take pictures after I finished. Thank you for the heads up.
-
3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
It is a AUTO RESETTABLE Circuit Breaker. Northern Tool and Amazon are full of them.
You will need to go to your prints to find out the correct amperage....unless you can read it on the broken parts.
I'm a bit confused. You show one that appears to be intact. But you have one that is broken. You will have to see WHAT doesn't or is not working.
The picture with all the "Copper" is called a BUSS. That is on the HOUSE. But, I can't tell from the picture where the broken device went.
If you don't know or can't trace WHAT is was powering and want the correct value. THEN, you need to check the wire size (on the load or downstream side).
#14 - 15 A; #12 - 20 A; #10 - 30 Amp; # 8 - 40A; #6 - 50 A
The fuse is usually to protect the wiring....not the device. SO, look at the wire size stamped on the wire or peel back the insulation and get a pair of mics or calipers and check the diameter....or find a piece that looks the same (the stranded wire size...not the outside jacket) and compare. That's the old fashioned and PURE LOGIC and NEC Code method....
Let us know.
Hi Tom,
Thank you for the detailed explanation Tom, I suspected it was a breaker but never seen one of that variety before. I had looked on the Wiring diagram but unfortunately it was too blurry to read. Since it's a 12 gauge wire I will be ordering the 20 amp version.
As a heads up last picture shows that same breaker when the plastic initially cracked, I touched it afterwards and it broke. It's sitting right above the BUSS and connects the BUSS to the Battery Boost Solenoid. If you look at the second picture right below Battery Boost Solenoid you will see the breaker, that picture was taken before I changed the isolator and battery maintainer. Took the time to clean everything while I was there which is why I broke the breaker.
Thank you all for your help, great community. Can't wait to be giving advice instead of receiving them.
-
Not sure what is, I just broke it while reinstalling. It’s in the Rear Run Bay and connected to one side of the Battery Boost solenoid connectors. Brand name and part number would be great but at least just knowing what it is would be fantastic.
thanks in advance!
-
Just now, 96 EVO said:
Drain your air tanks frequently checking for moisture after the switch!
From experience, I've found knockoff dryer filters can be hit or miss, whether they actually do the job!
Good to know thanks, I already planned on purging my tanks regularly so that shouldn't be an issue.
-
1
-
-
On 5/31/2023 at 9:35 PM, RedSectorA said:
It looks like mine, I will be buying one for sure and clean my current one as a spare. Thank you!
That's plan number one, already working on it but so far I haven't been successful, I probably will dismantle it this weekend to see if I can get it unstuck.
Not my first choice as I was told it wasn't a good idea to let the injectors run dry but yeah I may have to resort to that.
Thank you all, really appreciate your help.
On 5/31/2023 at 5:28 PM, Frank Bergamo said:The Racor 300200 is still available, https://www.racorstore.com/racor-300200-prefilter-w-o-ring-200-mic.html Also, there are 4 O-rings, two on the pre-filter and two inside the housing holding the pre-filter. They are different sizes, so take note. As Ivan said, you can probably clean up your old one and install new O-rings. The thumb screw is what holds it all together. Make sure it is snug when reassembling and you should be good to go.
I tried ordering it from 2 different places on the net and the are backorder for the last year or so. May be hard to find one at this time. Still haven't changed the primary and secondary filter, have been dealing with other issues on the coach 😂😂. I will get there shortly.
-
Thanks guys for your help. I found the cartridge, it's a Haldex DQ6036. I personally bought a Automann 170.DQ6036 as a cheaper alternative. I figured I would post for posterity.
-
Looks like this one but unsure if it's the right replacement.
-
Anybody knows the part number for an air dryer on a 2000 Holiday Rambler Navigator? Tried the Bendix 109994, although it's the same size the screw on opening is different. I sent pictures of mine alongside the Bendix for comparison.
Thx
-
6 hours ago, Just Jim said:
I think the pre-filter is the clear little one in the picture. It comes with the O rings. On my old dynasty it is a 300200.
4 hours ago, Frank Bergamo said:The Racor 300200 is still available, https://www.racorstore.com/racor-300200-prefilter-w-o-ring-200-mic.html Also, there are 4 O-rings, two on the pre-filter and two inside the housing holding the pre-filter. They are different sizes, so take note. As Ivan said, you can probably clean up your old one and install new O-rings. The thumb screw is what holds it all together. Make sure it is snug when reassembling and you should be good to go.
It looks like mine, I will be buying one for sure and clean my current one as a spare. Thank you!
5 hours ago, Ivan K said:Mine still works well (as of last filter change) and since you have no lift pump to cycle, I would try to 'unstuck' the button if that is all it needs. It is just a momentary switch with a timer, if the motor still works. As for the pre-filter, I replaced it once because it was deformed by heat but otherwise I would just clean the stainless mesh inside of it. I might have reused the orings or used orings from my assortment box but don't remember the dimensions, unfortunately but they weren't anything special.
That's plan number one, already working on it but so far I haven't been successful, I probably will dismantle it this weekend to see if I can get it unstuck.
8 hours ago, Analyte said:Typically just cycling the key multiple times to get the pump to prime will purge the air. When I change mine I usually prefill the primary, even though many say not to, just to speed up the process
Not my first choice as I was told it wasn't a good idea to let the injectors run dry but yeah I may have to resort to that.
Thank you all, really appreciate this.
-
First time fuel filter change on my 2000 Navigator with a Cummins ISM and 161,000 miles, my question is twofold. I have the primary and secondary filters to install hopefully this weekend but the unit also has a pre-filter that needs to be serviced. In the manual they say it can be cleaned but considering it's age I would prefer to just replace it. Anybody knows what that is and if it's worth replacing as well as o ring size?
Secondly on my Racor board the Air Purge button is seized and the H2O purge is missing, anyway I can purge the air in another way or ideas on what I should do?
Thank you in advance
-
53 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:
I had the same issue on my 2006 Dip. The 7.5a fuse for the ECM in my battery bay was blown. It was in a fuse holder mounted on the sidewall of the battery bay. A bit difficult to find, since the label had long since lost its ink.
PS - my ECM worked fine and I could read it from the engine bay with Insite; apparently that fuse just powered the J1708 data bus up front. ???
Thank you Scotty, I will check to see if I can find anything but both my data port aren't functional at this time.
-
1 hour ago, Ivan K said:
I have 1A Diagnostic fuse for the ISM/M11 in chassis section of FRB that is always hot.
Will check thank you.
1 hour ago, vito.a said:What is the basic issue you are trying to resolve?
Have you connected a heavy diesel code reader to the port and does it operate?
Purchased the coach a few months ago and can't connect to the ECM with my reader. I also know I have no voltage from the two pins indicated above so it has no power
-
4 minutes ago, DavidL said:
I am a little confused, certainly J1708 is a CAN data connection. There is no fuse on those two wires.
From memory, the J1708 spec says voltage between should be 0.5 - 1.5 volts.
If you aren't familiar with CAN data traffic...go slow because mistakes can be costly.
Hi David,
I've worked with OBD2 more than J1708 but pins C and E carry the electrical signal or so I'm told, not the data signal, but on mine there's nothing. Normally they are fused, aren't they?
Dan
-
Hi,
Does anybody know on which electrical circuit/fuse the J1708 (ECU Diagnostic Connector) is connected on a 2000 HR Navigator. Currently no current between the power and ground in the dataport.
Thx,
-
30 minutes ago, Just Jim said:
I found a source for those pre-filters down in Texas. Let me know if you need them and I'll figure out their name. However, you can just wash them out and reinstall if they are not to bad. That is what I've done the last few times. I got a bad case of algae and had to replace that one, but I stay on top of that now and have not had any issues just reusing the same one each time. I obviously replace the second filter every time.
If you don't mind I'd like to know, could not find them so far. There are so many cleaning that filter can take.
Thanks,
-
The pickup owner should at least be charged with Reckless Endangerment/public endangerment, sorry to say but he for sure had some signs of hub failure way before it split. You can see the rotor inside the hub at the end, hubs just don't separate that easy!
My 2 cents!
-
1
-
-
10 minutes ago, richmelcole@sbcglobal.net said:
I wanted to update my post. Tom was right about axle weights. Took a picture of the placard behind the drivers seat. Front axle - 13,000 lbs. /Rear axle - 23,000 lbs. Top placard lists 295/80R22.5 for front and rear tires. The bottom placard lists 205/80R22.5 tires front and rear. My new front tires are 75R but the placard recommends 80R. It that OK? All drive tires I have found have a max load of 5,675 lbs. Will 75 lbs make a difference or should I find a different tire that will work with my new fronts.
Thanks,
Richard
Look for an 16 H rated tire, 16 ply and H load rated for your 13k front axle. Your minimum load index is 6,500 per tire. I know Toyo has 295 80 r22.5 H rated tires. Don't know much about 205 80 size.
Generator muffler replacement
in Generators
Posted
I have an Onan 10kw HDCAA that uses a Isuzu engine. Even in the Onan service manual page 3 for that unit you can clearly see the Isuzu marking on the picture of the engine.