camelot

any advice on service centers in tucson,az

On 9/27/2023 at 8:12 AM, Tom Cherry said:

@camelot

Two things.  

Do a search using the search bar in the top.  Use residential or samsung.  Click on the EVERYWHERE and chose TOPICS.  A world of information on hos members have done this.  

Next….  Here is the drill, from a Camelot owner,  your MH is probably a twin to mine.  Yes…it will fit, but measure anyway.

The earlier Camelot’s had a drawer under the Dometic 1402.  Your picture wooks like they pulled that drawer and the refrigerator is sitting on the floor of the slide or the body.  That makes it simpler.

There will be (probably) insulation on the interior walls Or maybe on the existing refrigerator.  PULL THAT OUT…it was needed for safety (CO2) as well as to keep the heat from the burner from infiltrating the interior.  You need air circulation….so, don’t be fooled into thinking it is needed with a residential.

Use a side window.  Under NO Circumstances remove the windshield.  You will need to dismantle the old unit.  Pull the doors and such.  You will need a lift….or make a platform at the height of the bottom of the window you pull and a lot of helpers and muscle.  Some try to manipulate and maneuver the refrigerator in through the main door.  Will have to oull the passenger seat.  Also use duct tspe and thoroughly pad the dash and interior.  Some have not heeded and done significant damage to interior.  Not saying it can’t be done, but probably (guestimate) 80+% come through window.  All the pros do that.

Remove the valance and blind assembly as a unit.  Cut caulk on outside.  Pull the screws.  Use a rubber mallet or whatever to loosen up or a putty knife around the outside frame.  There is a band or strip of double stick gasket from the frame to the sidewll that has to be broken loose.  You will need to purchase this, probably Amazon, when you reinstall.  Use black or clear Proflex to seal and caulk afterwards 

Need to insulate the top and bottom covers.  This is discussed at length and you will find it when you do your searches.  If you have the vent frames with a louver on eqch side….insulate that.  Basically, you have to make the sidewall solid…except for where the vent covers go into the frame.  The Res Refers are finicky if the temps drop below freezing.  The new government required energy standards rarely let them work on a back porch or an unheated garage.  You CAN do research for an ALL WEATHER model.  More $$.  Most if not all just insulate.  Would be surprised if you found a model that would fit.

The Samsung is the most popular model. Others have used other brands.  I read all the stuff online,  Yes, we have had a few failures.  However, to the best of my knowledge, there have been no failures on the current model.  Mine was out in circa 2017.  Had the issue of low temperature not working.  Samsung factory tech said he gets a plethora of calls where someone replaced an old unit and had it in an unheated area….you nave to unplug….wait for 5 minutes. RESTART.  Once I insulated, nary a moment’s issue with it.  I bought 2 of the adjustable fences or bars and use them to keep stuff from sliders. DW said….why did we wait this long.

Use the inverter or Icemaker outlet. You will need to run genny maybe 2 hours per day when boondocking.  Offline, I will share the simple what to rewire the GFCI outlet.  NO RES REFER likes to be on a GFCI.  Monaco, stupidity, did this.  The rewiring takes 5 minutes….as you move one piece of romex from one side of the GFCI to the other.  Coached at least 50 folks….no issues and no “nuance” trips.

You have to turn off icemaker and use the energy settings when boondocking. Even the folks with the 8 battery house banks do that.

Main thing is fabrication of a “hold me in place” mount.  My system was “self designed” and the big RV shop now uses it.  You screw a “perline” to each of the interior sidewalls.  Maybe 8” from where the rear or back corner will fit.  Use a piece of 5/4 X 1 deck board.  Cut a 2” wide strip avout a foot long.  Screw it to the interior wall so that there is maybe 2 or 3” sticking up or above the top of the refrigerator.  Cut a piece of the decking about 1-1/2” wide and about 1/4” or less than the distance between the side walls.  Need two 2x4 blocks…maybe 8” long.  Sand the bottom (4” side) smooth.  Use 3M VHB double stick tape…CLEAR…it is stronger.  You put s layer of the tape on the bottom of each block.  NOTE….these blocks will be taped to TOP.  Whateve thickness you use….you have to have clearance so that if you ever remove the refrigerator, these blocks will have to SLIDE UNDER the front edge of the wood above the refrigerator….as you look at it from the insdie.  Make sure you understand that.

Insert the refrigerator….slide OUT of course.  Then, from the upper vent…may have to remove the sheetmetal “flue” that Monaco might have put in….you predrill maybe 2 or 3 holes through the 2” wide cross brace.  Put the cross brace in from the rear.  Lay it on top of the refrigerator.  Slide it forward until it (the crossbrace) contacts or is butted up against the two perlines on the side walls.  The brace is on rear….not against the front edges of the perlines (the interior side ).  NOW…peel off the other side of the double stick tape.  You are going to seat of tape or attach these blocks to the top.  Push down….hit a few times with a rubber mallet.  NOW, use 3” or 3-1/2” deck screws…..the crossbrace is predrilled.  You screw the crossbrace to the blocks.  That prevents it from going or moving forward.  

The rear brace is dealers choice.  You put 2x4 blocks or braces on the bottom to hold or wedge it in.  The 4” side is vertical.  Use some 90 deg angle brackets to hold in place.  NOTE….if Monaco still has a piece of the shelf that the Dometic’s sat on in place, remove it or use a 4” hole saw to allow air circulation.  I cut maybe 6 holes….works fine.  You MUST have air circulation from the very bottom of the unit.

That’s it.

 

 

Hey Tom! does our camelot have basement heating to keep water line from freezing. TY Steve

I use fresh from tank occasionally, never saw pink before, where would the antifreeze be and why not until the tank was empty did it appear/ TY Steve

I beleive I ran my fresh water tand dry! The other day I was on the water pump supply no shore water, Opened the faucet and it started splitting and spuddering then turned a pink color and then stopped, assumming out of water. But where did the pink water come from, it smelled like acohol also? Ty Steve

TY Steve

1 hour ago, Gsmentko said:

I replaced my Gas/Electric fridge a few years back when the old one died.... A $1,100 residential fridge sounded a lot better than a $6,000 new gas/electric.  Also, the tech that helped me recommended against the Japanize brands and any fancy electronics.  I installed a Frigidaire that just fit.  Brought it in through the drivers side window and had to reseal it (He helped with that).  My problem was my inverter was not a sinewave inverter and the fridge would not work with the step wave inverter.  So, it didn't work once I unplugged from shore power, so I did two things....  

1) bought a UPS that could power the fridge for about 4 to 6 hours based on wattage (probably not needed after I installed the new full sinewave inverter, but I feel better).

2) Then I bought a new Magnum energy  full sinewave Inverter, replacing the old one.  So, now all my electronics run great on the inverter. I lost a few clocks, electric toothbrushes, and a few other small electronics trying to run them on the original step wave inverter. 

My 2 cents of experience,

Greg

What model frigidaire? My pure sine wave inverter is a magnum 2011, will that be suffice? TY Steve

On 9/26/2023 at 9:10 AM, CAT Stephen said:

Now that you have confirmed the height, what is your electrical use case scenario? 

- Are you full time on the grid / generator? 

   - If not, do you occasionally or frequently boondock off the grid? 

   - Do you currently have an LiPO4 House battery bank?  

no on the grid at all really! I dont know what a LiP04 Bank is? I have (1) inverter. TY Steve

Ok the C1 code was a air thermister out of range. It is inside the frig right hand side, replaced it for like 18 dollars, beep went away all is good! TY Steve

8 hours ago, Dragracer said:

I didn't take the caps off mine. I don't know what would happen if you did. 

I dont see any other way to get to the tube to secure it to replace cover? TY Steve

On 10/3/2023 at 7:31 AM, camelot said:

My awning is still attached to the roof, just pulled away about a foot in the center. When you say you unrolled by hand, you mean you pulled the awning out as usual and locked the ends with drill bits? Where do you get the new material? TY Steve

Ok let me get this square! The ends of my slideout awning has a plastic cap, i take that off? can i then entend it by pulling it open with my metal rod and then put the drill bits in to hold in place?

On 9/20/2023 at 10:07 AM, 10Boomer said:

Let’s start with pictures! All components, your control switches, the actual awning. 

Im sorry ! My issue is on my slide out awnings. TY Steve

11 hours ago, Dragracer said:

Mine was still partially attached to the motorhome roof so my awning rollers didn't come un wound. I unrolled them by hand & used some 1/4" drill bits in both ends of the rollers to hold them in place while we made the repairs to the awnings. There was holes in the end of my rollers & thats where I locked them with drill bits. In order to remove the awning from the slots in the rollers I googled & found a trick to take a 1/4" drill bit & drill & elongate the slot about a inch on 1 end so you can get the canvas out of the roller. It went back together pretty easy. I attached the canvas back to the roof by sliding it back into the track with the Tv coax cable inside the canvas before I put it in the roller.To me the whole job was very easy to do. The first one took be about a hour to get off but after I figured it all out the other one came off in about 20 minutes. I used 2 ladders & had my wife help me put them back on. I removed them by myself. It took us about 10 minutes each to put them back on. If your rollers have come un wound you will need to find out how many turns to wind them back up. I bet someone on this site will know or you can find the infformation on google if you need it.

My awning is still attached to the roof, just pulled away about a foot in the center. When you say you unrolled by hand, you mean you pulled the awning out as usual and locked the ends with drill bits? Where do you get the new material? TY Steve

On 9/24/2023 at 6:23 PM, Dragracer said:

Thought I would share this. Our slide awnings came unsewed at the roof end & we thought we were going to have to buy new ones. After we removed them we found them to be in real good shape except for the part that attaches to the roof. We cut 3 inches off & sewed the end back up with our home sewing machine. Went to Hobby Lobby & got a heavy duty needle & some heavy duty canvas thread. The 1/4" plastic rod that inserts into the awning then goes in the aluminum channel on the roof had become brittle & broke into little pieces. I looked all around my shop for a substitute & finally found something that would work.lol I used some TV coaxial cable for it's replacement. I measured it with my dial caliper & it's the same size as the plastic rod. I had a whole used roll of it that I guess I was saving it for something. Got the awnings put back on & done made one successful camping trip to Lake Whitney in Whitney Texas. The wind blew 25-30 mph all weekend & on Saturday we had a pretty good thunderstorm. That was a good test for our work. Awnings held up good. I found the 1/4" plastic rods on google but didn't want to wait on shipping. Hope this helps someone else. 

How difficult is it to remove fabric from awning cover. I have 2 covers that have pulled away from motorhome side? Ty Steve

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

@camelot

Two things.  

Do a search using the search bar in the top.  Use residential or samsung.  Click on the EVERYWHERE and chose TOPICS.  A world of information on hos members have done this.  

Next….  Here is the drill, from a Camelot owner,  your MH is probably a twin to mine.  Yes…it will fit, but measure anyway.

The earlier Camelot’s had a drawer under the Dometic 1402.  Your picture wooks like they pulled that drawer and the refrigerator is sitting on the floor of the slide or the body.  That makes it simpler.

There will be (probably) insulation on the interior walls Or maybe on the existing refrigerator.  PULL THAT OUT…it was needed for safety (CO2) as well as to keep the heat from the burner from infiltrating the interior.  You need air circulation….so, don’t be fooled into thinking it is needed with a residential.

Use a side window.  Under NO Circumstances remove the windshield.  You will need to dismantle the old unit.  Pull the doors and such.  You will need a lift….or make a platform at the height of the bottom of the window you pull and a lot of helpers and muscle.  Some try to manipulate and maneuver the refrigerator in through the main door.  Will have to oull the passenger seat.  Also use duct tspe and thoroughly pad the dash and interior.  Some have not heeded and done significant damage to interior.  Not saying it can’t be done, but probably (guestimate) 80+% come through window.  All the pros do that.

Remove the valance and blind assembly as a unit.  Cut caulk on outside.  Pull the screws.  Use a rubber mallet or whatever to loosen up or a putty knife around the outside frame.  There is a band or strip of double stick gasket from the frame to the sidewll that has to be broken loose.  You will need to purchase this, probably Amazon, when you reinstall.  Use black or clear Proflex to seal and caulk afterwards 

Need to insulate the top and bottom covers.  This is discussed at length and you will find it when you do your searches.  If you have the vent frames with a louver on eqch side….insulate that.  Basically, you have to make the sidewall solid…except for where the vent covers go into the frame.  The Res Refers are finicky if the temps drop below freezing.  The new government required energy standards rarely let them work on a back porch or an unheated garage.  You CAN do research for an ALL WEATHER model.  More $$.  Most if not all just insulate.  Would be surprised if you found a model that would fit.

The Samsung is the most popular model. Others have used other brands.  I read all the stuff online,  Yes, we have had a few failures.  However, to the best of my knowledge, there have been no failures on the current model.  Mine was out in circa 2017.  Had the issue of low temperature not working.  Samsung factory tech said he gets a plethora of calls where someone replaced an old unit and had it in an unheated area….you nave to unplug….wait for 5 minutes. RESTART.  Once I insulated, nary a moment’s issue with it.  I bought 2 of the adjustable fences or bars and use them to keep stuff from sliders. DW said….why did we wait this long.

Use the inverter or Icemaker outlet. You will need to run genny maybe 2 hours per day when boondocking.  Offline, I will share the simple what to rewire the GFCI outlet.  NO RES REFER likes to be on a GFCI.  Monaco, stupidity, did this.  The rewiring takes 5 minutes….as you move one piece of romex from one side of the GFCI to the other.  Coached at least 50 folks….no issues and no “nuance” trips.

You have to turn off icemaker and use the energy settings when boondocking. Even the folks with the 8 battery house banks do that.

Main thing is fabrication of a “hold me in place” mount.  My system was “self designed” and the big RV shop now uses it.  You screw a “perline” to each of the interior sidewalls.  Maybe 8” from where the rear or back corner will fit.  Use a piece of 5/4 X 1 deck board.  Cut a 2” wide strip avout a foot long.  Screw it to the interior wall so that there is maybe 2 or 3” sticking up or above the top of the refrigerator.  Cut a piece of the decking about 1-1/2” wide and about 1/4” or less than the distance between the side walls.  Need two 2x4 blocks…maybe 8” long.  Sand the bottom (4” side) smooth.  Use 3M VHB double stick tape…CLEAR…it is stronger.  You put s layer of the tape on the bottom of each block.  NOTE….these blocks will be taped to TOP.  Whateve thickness you use….you have to have clearance so that if you ever remove the refrigerator, these blocks will have to SLIDE UNDER the front edge of the wood above the refrigerator….as you look at it from the insdie.  Make sure you understand that.

Insert the refrigerator….slide OUT of course.  Then, from the upper vent…may have to remove the sheetmetal “flue” that Monaco might have put in….you predrill maybe 2 or 3 holes through the 2” wide cross brace.  Put the cross brace in from the rear.  Lay it on top of the refrigerator.  Slide it forward until it (the crossbrace) contacts or is butted up against the two perlines on the side walls.  The brace is on rear….not against the front edges of the perlines (the interior side ).  NOW…peel off the other side of the double stick tape.  You are going to seat of tape or attach these blocks to the top.  Push down….hit a few times with a rubber mallet.  NOW, use 3” or 3-1/2” deck screws…..the crossbrace is predrilled.  You screw the crossbrace to the blocks.  That prevents it from going or moving forward.  

The rear brace is dealers choice.  You put 2x4 blocks or braces on the bottom to hold or wedge it in.  The 4” side is vertical.  Use some 90 deg angle brackets to hold in place.  NOTE….if Monaco still has a piece of the shelf that the Dometic’s sat on in place, remove it or use a 4” hole saw to allow air circulation.  I cut maybe 6 holes….works fine.  You MUST have air circulation from the very bottom of the unit.

That’s it.

 

 

Tom, Thank you as always we have identical units. Did you have any pics concerning the bracing to hold in place. TY Steve

17 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Mine had a rubber gasket for the seal,  but many of them have a black sticky tar ( forgot the name ) and then a bead of clear or colored caulk around the edge.   I used a bronze caulk.   You may need to reseal it, it depends on how stuck it is.  My rubber seal tore up so I bought the same stuff at Lowes.  It's a narrow ribbed seal.  Yeah, it would be a good time to fix a fogged window, I have never done that but others on here have and I don't think it's too hard to do.   If you decide to remove the window you need to be sure it doesn't fall out after removing the screws.   To guard against it falling I placed a 2x4 leaning against it until I could get outside.  That's the only window I have removed & it's a little heavy I did it by myself but it wouldn't hurt to have help.

Thank You! for all the answers everyone. Ty Steve

55 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

If your windshield is good I wouldn't take it out.  IMHO, that would be asking for trouble,  instead, the driver's side window comes out easily,  just screws all around the inside.  That's what I did and the Samsung was still in the box.  Me and the wife, oh, and the tractor helped.   I built a table of sorts outside the window, and the plywood top lapped inside the window.  I put a piece of carpet on the table so the box could slide right in.  Okay, it was not quite as easy as it sounds but we did it.

when you take out the window do you have to reseal it? Also if its alittle foggy might as well fix that to, if its not to much trouble?

3 hours ago, CAT Stephen said:

Now that you have confirmed the height, what is your electrical use case scenario? 

- Are you full time on the grid / generator? 

   - If not, do you occasionally or frequently boondock off the grid? 

   - Do you currently have an LiPO4 House battery bank?  

I dont boondock very much if at all! I am fulltime, dont know what a lip04 battery bank is?

4 hours ago, jacwjames said:

In most cases the height is the problem but in your case with +73" you have plenty of room. 

I installed a Samsung RF18 and the height was the issue for me as I have the furnace underneath, had to do a lot of work to get enough height.  I checked my manual and it says the height is 70 1/8".

Other then that probably getting the old one out and new one in would be the hardest part.  I took the old Norcold apart to get it out through the front door, wasn't a problem.  The Samsung wouldn't go through the front door so had to remove the passenger side window and brought it in through there. 

That samsung frig has bad reviews any problems its a good price on wayfair?

3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

In most cases the height is the problem but in your case with +73" you have plenty of room. 

I installed a Samsung RF18 and the height was the issue for me as I have the furnace underneath, had to do a lot of work to get enough height.  I checked my manual and it says the height is 70 1/8".

Other then that probably getting the old one out and new one in would be the hardest part.  I took the old Norcold apart to get it out through the front door, wasn't a problem.  The Samsung wouldn't go through the front door so had to remove the passenger side window and brought it in through there. 

yes sir that is my question getting it in, probably have to take the windshield out. As for the operation of the frig when driving not on shore power Im guessing the gen set is the answer?

73.25"

How difficult is it to install residential frig in 2011 monaco camelot? TY Steve

On 9/20/2023 at 4:47 PM, Dr4Film said:

Don't see a C1 code in the Norcold 1200 service manual. You didn't post what model Norcold you have so no idea.

Thank You! Steve

I saw that also, but what does that mean and where is it to check resistance.TY Steve

17 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Don't see a C1 code in the Norcold 1200 service manual. You didn't post what model Norcold you have so no idea.

C1 is in the window of refrig and the beeping is too much!  the frig is working amagine that. any help please! TY Steve

16 hours ago, camelot said:

Sorry Model# 2117lM

16 hours ago, camelot said:

Sorry Model# 2117lM

how can we talk 10boomer? My # is 321-805-1079

On 9/19/2023 at 1:03 PM, camelot said:

awning doesnt work any more, called carefree they said controller was obsolete. So they sold me a BT12 controller, which is a 12v system, the apex is a 110v system. Does anyone know where to get the correct controller? 

here are some pictures! TY Steve