Stephen D

Thanks Tom I’m just waiting for the me-arc to arrive in the uk and I’m trying to locate a bts 25 from someone who

will ship to uk there’s a couple on eBay but they won’t ship to uk once I’ve got all the kit il be back on to you frank or scotty for help

in fitting and setting up 

thanks again Stephen D

Hi Tom my Monaco dynasty bishop kongsburg has not got a me-bts fitted it’s got a bmk but no bts I’ve ordered the me-arc controller and want 

to fit the me-bts is it hard to thread the cable through from the battery box to the inverter or is it pre wired in any way I’ve been going through battery banks and I am assuming it’s because I’ve not been treating them correctly with wrong charging regime and no bts and not having the upgrade me-arc 

thanks Stephen D 

Thanks frank my first job of the season 

Stephen D

Thanks frank I’ve had the problem of the alternator not charging the house batteries from new and I just thought it was not supposed to because of the size of the bank I also through there was a problem from new with the big boy as when I pressed the dash jump switch nothing happened and the big bog would not disconnect unless I switched the batteries off at the disconnect switch as there’s no techs here in the uk I will probably need help to fix the problem  when I get the motor home out of to winter storage 

thanks again to all stephen D

On 10/27/2023 at 5:20 PM, Tom Cherry said:

YES....that will be evident when you pull open or go into the battery compartment.  NOW...remember....no matter if you have to use a vehicle to jump off the engine or the genny (house bank), you ALWAYS need to turn OFF BOTH BATTERY SWITCHES....THEN ATTACH the Starting Battery (Car or whatever) OR Do the INTERNAL JUMPERING.,....That is critical...

YES....POSITIVE TO POSITIVE (from Each Bank) to Negative.  You have FOUR batteries on the HOUSE.... use the Front or REAR ones....

Since this seems to be a little unfamiliar....I took a page out of your manual.  Still suggest, that as you progress or want to understand, read BOTH the electrical session.

As the SAY...One Picture....10,000 key strokes....  OK...look at the marked up file.  The SOLID Black Lines are the MAIN JUMPERS between the Batteries.  So, any of the ones I marked are OK.  NOW, for your continued education.  See the smaller, grayed out ones between each set of HOUSE BATTERIES.  These commonly are KNOWN as the INTERNAL or the HOUSE Connectors...my terminology.  They connect one 6 VDC to another....thus the TWO, in SERIES are 12 VDC.  BUT the large Black Jumpers, that connect the Chassis to each other and the two "sets of 6 VDC" are the Cable or Jumpers that put the batteries or "set" in parallel.  That means you get BOTH batteries or "sets" in parallel.  The CURRENT from each is added.  SO, if you have 225 Amp Hours in a 6 VDC battery....that is the SAME for the two batteries in series or with the small gray jumpers.  BUT, when you put the TWO sets in Parallel, you have 450 Amp Hours of current.  Many folks don't know that....as they never had to "work with it", so if you knew that....just repeating....but it NOT, then helping you to learn.

Ben responded...as expected. and he is happy with his decision.  He is very experienced and knows how the entire system works and did his own rewiring.  I have the same MH and there is a great print...as well as easy to see cables....  BUT, for curiosity's sake, I went through your prints.  TOTALLY DIFFERENT...which happens.  You have ever piece of pipe and fitting detailed...  BUT there is no where, that I saw, the High Current Print showing the large fuses (presumably) that connect the Generator to the House Buss....  Also went through the Manual.  NO PICTURES or High Current Fuses listed for the rear.....  SO...I'm sure we have a LOT of experienced folks that could easily understand and trace circuits and move things around...  But, I can't find any prints to even offer, as you learn MORE, how you would do it.

That's my take....

JUMPERING HOUSE AND CHASSIS BATTERY DIAGRAM - 2009 KNIGHT...AND OTHERS.pdf 322.53 kB · 33 downloads

Hi Tom I’ve always had a problem starting my Genny on my 2010 dynasty if the house battery’s are not 12.6 it won’t start which is a pain if they start to go down wile travelling running the residential fridge but even though it’s messy I always jump it at the genny end connecting a jump pack to the cables on the genny I was going to add jump points to make it easier would you still recommend turning the batteries off wile I connect as I’ve never done that as I was up front off the coach

thanks Stephen D 

Thanks frank your a great help I don’t want to put the black spot on myself as my 2010 dynasty’s kongsburg system is working ok

but just trying to get things that are available at the moment that you think I need if problems occur  in the future 

thanks again to all monacoers for your help 

Stephen D

Thanks tom I already had the breakers as recommended by frank and was wondering about fuses like what you have  done at a 90 because of the tight space but did not know weather  to do that or a solid connector bent at a 90 as some people say that some breakers are not accurate enough and some say fuses Are to sensitive and like you I new nothing about this kongsburg system problem when I bought my bishop IV in late 2010 we just need to do everything we can to protect our coaches that we can your pictures are also a  help thanks again ps dose anyone know of anyone who can copy the cadet software for resale as no one has it in the UK

Stephen D

thanks again f

Hi Tom that looks good I’d bought the trips to do my bishop but yours look like better parts is it tripped and fused can you give me part details and we’re to get them from please I’m in the uk so will have to send to US for them any help would be truly appreciated 

thanks Stephen D 

Frank I am going through all your pages know I bought my 2010 dynasty bishop lV 39ft new unused from Paul evert rv fresco at what I thought was a good discount price till now I don’t know when the build was started but it had a navstar sticker on it so weather they finished the build or just inherited it from the bankruptcy I don’t know but weather it’s a Friday afternoon coach and being in the uk we’re there are know dealers did not know how everything is supposed to work like the house batteries don’t charge from the alternator I figured this is because the battery bank of 4 L16 trojans would be to much for alternator and the BB booster never worked proper if engaged it would not disengage unless you turned the house isolator off and it never boosted anyway and as I added another 2L16 trojans to make it 6 I thought the same it would be to much for the alternator so just start the generator if they start to go down at night after the solar has stopped working wile driving sorry to be a pain but there’s no one over here with a kongsburg dynasty that I know of but like I’ve said even though it’s a kongsburg coach I’ve had no trouble other than I’ve used a few banks of house batteries and minor rv parts like water pumps as you would expect

thanks Stephen D

Hi frank i was already on with  doing your recommendations I’ve bought the 5v transformer to fit ready for when it’s needed and I’ve bought the lower amp trip switches to fit lucky enough I had disconnected the auxiliary 12v compressor a couple of years ago because it kept running as there must be an air leak but I am having trouble finding it so that may have saved the coach from a fire I will go back through your post for anything I’ve missed or mis understood thanks again for your help Stephen D

Thanks frank and Tom I did the overkill sure to be sure which always make sense to eliminate all possibility’s and it’s reset and all looks well I’ve only just reconnected so let’s see if it re occurs on another note we have no techs in the uk so I think I need to acquire the necessary equipment ie cadet diagnostics and what els is needed so I diagnose problems if needed so any help in acquiring said equipment please also I think I need to have some necessary spares wile they are still available like front and rear modules and spare switches what ever you think would be wise to have in stock on this side of the pond if I can be pointed in the right direction to please

thanks again for you help  

Thanks frank it 10pm here now il try that in the morning hopefully that will fix it il keep you posted 

Problem with internal switches 2010 dynasty I’ve put my coach indoors for the winter on hook up I don’t winterise it because I keep heaters inside and in the lockers I put the hot water heater on for a few days as it was very cold just to be sure my son come in before and said the docking lights were on when I went into the workshop one side and the rear were on when I went into the coach all the internal switches were illuminated orange as if everything was switched on when I tried the lights they come on and just keep going through dim to bright dim to bright sometimes on and sometimes not you cannot tell what’s on til you try it like whe water pump you don’t know if the hot water is on til it gets hot or not sometimes all the switches start flashing anyone got any idea’s I’ve had to turn the isolator switches off the coach has the kongsburg system but I’ve never had any problems with it I live in the uk so there’s no tec or anybody with a cadet diagnostics tool 

thanks stephen D 

1 minute ago, Tom Cherry said:

Personally

Do it like the terminals are labeled.  I have the same (style) resettable breaker on my slide hydraulics and Monaco wired it according to the Feed coming in on the top when the breaker was oriented properly.  Maybe doesn’t matter, but someone thought it was necessary to label the connections…

 

Thanks TOM I was thinking the same but as they say safety in numbers and you cannot buy experience so the more of us working on this kongsburg job the better and maybe the fix is only around the corner and as I am probably the only one in the uk with a Monaco with it I need all the help I can get and hopefully some Monaco,s with the kongsburg system never get a problem with a bit of does and don’ts put in to practice 

stephen D

On 5/6/2023 at 4:08 AM, Wildwood said:

With potential of melted circuit boards or worse yet a fire we decided to be safe rather than sorry by adding the circuit breakers to house and chassis b4 board.

M

Hi just arrived my breaker I’ve noticed that battery connection is at the top 

and aux at bottom some wire them opposite to that I am assuming that because

of convenience of the cables being hard to work with does this matter or am i

better wiring the way the breaker says and take the feed from above then connect 

the board to the aux at the bottom 

thanks stephen D 

2 hours ago, Wildwood said:

Here is a more complete picture of the circuit breakers in our FRB, all installed per Franks document titled "Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire"

and as usual to Frank BIG THANKS Again ! 🙂

Thanks a million anything els that you learn? On your travels that can help with this plague and stop the ccm from dying 

please let me know thanks again Stephen D 

1 hour ago, Frank McElroy said:

At the time, I worked with Tal after the PCB fire to select reasonable size breakers for the load.  The house and chassis were originally set at 150 amps each from tge RRB.  It's all explained in the file document on the PCB fire.

Hi frank can you send me a copy of that pcb fire file please and what cables to fit breakers and size plus any were fuses and sizes are to be fitted and are fuses better than breakers in your opinion or not I’ve got the picture from bob and wildwood but just cannot make out which cables and were they go and breaker sizes I need to protect everything I can as if anything happens to the coach it would be scrap as there’s no techs companies in the uk that could even scratch there heads on this system so I would probably need you to holiday in the uk for a wile 

thanks Stephen D 

On 5/23/2021 at 5:11 AM, Bob125 said:

I came across this topic by Frank McElroy and downloaded the file and write-up by Tal G.  If you search for a file called "Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire 1.0.0" you will find it.

In the write-up, Tal G. suggested to add two circuit breakers for the house and chassis battery power cables feeding the Front Run Box printed circuit board.  I am going to do that to my 2009 Beaver Marquis as I feel I have the same system and potential for fire.

I've attached a picture showing another power feed to the Chassis Control Module.  Does anyone know if I need to add a circuit breaker to this as well?

Thanks, Bob...

2009 Beaver Marquis

 

 

On 5/26/2021 at 5:00 AM, Bob125 said:

I'm on that now.  I just received my 12V to 5V supply in from Amazon today.  I think I have identified the wiring, got the power supply and wiring and making a file on this if/when I lose power to my smart wheel.   All working good the last 11 years.  Thanks again.  I'm trying my best to be proactive and have alternate means to power headlights, wipers, turn signals if this Kongsberg CCM decides to quit working properly.  Trying not to be stranded.

Thanks for all your insight.  Bob...  '09 Beaver Marquis

Hi all I live in the United Kingdom and have a 2010 Monaco dynasty bishop Iv with the dreaded kongsburg chassis multiplex 

at the moment all is ok but I want to protect the system if I can from anything I can I am going to get the alternative 5v power ready

but I was wanting to fit the 50amp protection blue sea cube fuses but don’t know we’re to fit them there are no Monaco agents in the 

uk so any pictures were to fit would be appreciated and any were els protection can be put would also be appreciated as there is no one

in the uk who could fix a problem 

thanks stephen