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noneuno

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Posts posted by noneuno

  1.  Thanks tom, yes we switched the hot 1 with hot 2 and what didn't work before then worked and what did work no longer did. 2 years ago I had a power problem during the blizzard I liked to have froze to death. I went through 5 RV techs @125 trip charge and 150 an hour. It's another 125 trip charge if they have to get a part and come back. And if that hour is only 15 minutes it's still 150. Then I drove to Colorado Springs and got screwed even worse. He charged me 3600 to put a used board in the inverter. Then I found out a new inverter was only 1200. So I'm a little Leary of RV techs . I really do appreciate you and all the time you have spent helping me. Right now I'm just switching extention cords around to what we need until I can afford to fix it. Thank you tom. 

  2. I found 5 outlets in bedroom. Two on the dresser wall one is a punch through loop outlet , the other is high and came from the loop outlet then goes to the right. Then the washer dryer outlet. We took out the washer dryer( it didn't work). Then to j box 3 & 4 under the bed. No power to either box. It seems like all the outlets and lights on the 20 amp line work it's the ones on the 15 that don't work. I think I might be in too deep opening the inverter. I'm no sparky. Before I do anymore I have to read more so I understand what your saying.

  3. Yes that made sense but it did not work. Still no outlets. However we did find a hole shooting water inside behind the fridge from icemaker. Could that have shorted out something and blew all of them. The GFI is right next to the fridge. 

    It looks to be the same one you have.

    image.thumb.jpeg.8c6bd6d7c32a60d7b2959fc48d53cdf5.jpeg

     

    Yes only 50 amp at pedestal as this is mobile home park not standard RV park. 

  4. Yes that made sense but it did not work. Still no outlets.

    4 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

    Tom is right, you're apt to run into it being a GFCI that will not cooperate with your heater.   I haven't had the occasion to try this but I believe a workaround might be possible with a 30amp to 20amp dogbone adapter, providing a 30amp receptacle is available at the pedestal.

    No it's only 50.amp at pedestal. 

    It's warm out today. I'll be outside checking other stuff. If anyone has an idea I appreciate all your time trying to help.

  5. 4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

    Richard makes some valid points.  And your knowledge and comments also indicate some better than perhaps average expertise.  I did have to help a member resolve an issue on a MH that sounds vaguely familiar. The circuit was NOT a typical “walk in the park” variety.  So, I will address this from two perspectives.

    First….the problem you are having COULD not be related to the GFCI swap out.  So, lets deal with the usual suspects there.  The GFCI circuits actually are downstream circuits that are “passed through” the Inverter.  When you are on shore or genny, the 30Amp breaker is supplying voltage, current, power or whatever you call it….to the internal outlets.  These include the ones close to the sinks, the microwave, the icemaker and such.  Based on my recollection of the power circuit from the inverter, your “maze” of outlets had one “standalone” with NO downstream or other “Load” receptacles. It also had two GFCI’s that did…but one was only one….in addition it MAY have had an outlet that was NOT GFCI required.  YES….it was a mystery….

    SO….assuming that you know that the 30  Inverter breaker is the source….then that also assumes that you know that the Intellitec EMS gets a “load” or current measurement via a toroidal coil located in the main panel.  So, you SHOULD, if the Inverter Charger was on an charging….or if an AC or water heater or refrigerator heating (assuming you have a gas/electric model) have seen a current draw…and there is nothing, unless you disconnected the harnesses or pigtails from the main EMS board that wuoud ave disconnect the coil or removed it.  The current coil is on the neutral. Just because the Magnum is “1A” doesn’t mean there is not a smidge more…and unless everything else was not on….BTW, even the Standby Mode of a TV or other home entertainment device will draw miniscuke amounts.

    MY SUGGESTION. Locate the EMS Board. It is behind the brown panel cover.  Obviously no SHORE or genny on.  I recommend turning off the Salesman switch snd then the house disconnect battery switch.  There is a 3 amp fuse on the board….lower right in the panel.  I also pull the 3 or 4 connectors.  Leave it for 5 or so minutes to drain any stored or residual electrical charge or a “Gremlin”. Reconnect the plugs, then the fuse.  Turn on the battery disconnect switch and then turn back on the salesman switch..if you have not bypassed it.

    Apply shore.  Then turn something like the water heater or use the microwave.  That USUALLY resets it

    Well that did not change anything. Will check the other things you said tomorrow and get back with those results. Took off the GFI in the bathroom again to make sure it wasn't getting any line power and it does not. 

     

    I apologize . I do not understand the quote thing and I mashed in the wrong block.

  6. Hi I'm having almost the same problem. I changed the GFI in bathroom to a new one. Did nothing. Lights all work and the outlet for micro works and 1 outlet by the bed and the bay heater outlet works. None of the breakers are tripped nor the inverter. The ems is lit up but shows no loads. The batteries are charging. I was thinking the transfer switch but its the same on generator or batteries. The fridge is on LP now as it went with the outlets. We plugged into a different 50 amp plug and it didn't change. Any suggestions would be great.

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    20231101_094124.jpg

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